Seven 30
- Thread starter 350ZMO
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- big fogger seven 30 seven-30
- Status
If you figure it out, let me know. I spent 2 hours trying to open mine up last night, no dice. Seems to be press-fit, but I think there's possibly some epoxy holding it together as well.
I'll post here. Haven't heard back from the vendor I was hoping he would get confirmation from the manufacturer. He did say he thought the top was press fit and the bottom welded. I'm not sure the top is press fit. I have looked at mine and I don't see a line that would indicate a press fit. Where do you see it on yours?
Now the bottom to me looks like it is a three pronged spanner but those three slots may be the welds but I can definitely see threads in the bottom.
Now the bottom to me looks like it is a three pronged spanner but those three slots may be the welds but I can definitely see threads in the bottom.
It's under the indent that holds the O-ring. There's a crease between the body and the top piece. It's really thin, so it's not easy to see. I locked mine in a bench vice and took a pair of channel locks to it, and it turned like a millimeter. But since then, it won't budge. My next thought is to take a torch to it, but I don't want to burn the guts.
Oh, and I can get a fingernail or razor blade into the crease, so they're definitely separate pieces.
Last edited:
Just out of curiosity, did you try adjusting the 510 screw to see if that fixed your problem. I was having issues like what you described, turned out the tank I was using didn't reach the pin anymore for some reason.
Sent from my HTC One
I fried mine... Guess I was having just too much fun with my Kanger Giant and the sub-ohm coils... 
Seems early models had a small spring connecting between the board and the 510... That & the connection at the board are weak points...
I believe it has a 1 year warranty from Pioneer4You... If you aren't working with an authorized distributor, you might try kustomvapes.com
Seems early models had a small spring connecting between the board and the 510... That & the connection at the board are weak points...
I believe it has a 1 year warranty from Pioneer4You... If you aren't working with an authorized distributor, you might try kustomvapes.com
I fried mine... Guess I was having just too much fun with my Kanger Giant and the sub-ohm coils...
Seems early models had a small spring connecting between the board and the 510... That & the connection at the board are weak points...
I believe it has a 1 year warranty from Pioneer4You... If you aren't working with an authorized distributor, you might try kustomvapes.com
Well shoot. That explains my problems then. I've been running a 0.6 at 30 watts for the past few weeks. Mine is definitely not from an authorized distributor, I got it nearly 2 weeks before most vendors did.
Sent from my HTC One
It comes apart real easy. No spring no weak joints just a burnt chip and burnt chip smell.
View attachment 358221 View attachment 358222 View attachment 358223 View attachment 358224
View attachment 358221 View attachment 358222 View attachment 358223 View attachment 358224
Well crap...now I have a huge case of buyer's remorse. My Seven 30 came last week and was essentially DOA. I put a battery in and screwed on my Aerotank Giant...no firing. I don't have any RDAs of my own so I took it to a local vape shop and...nada...tried several different attys.
I shipped it back to the vendor already, but I do remember a faint burning smell I couldn't figure out...
What to do now? The vendor hasn't shipped me the replacement yet (maybe I caught a break?), so should I just ask for a refund? I don't want to end up with a mod that will just eventually break on me...
Maybe I should get store credit and put it towards that IPV V2 (making my 26650 batteries and Aerotank Giant a waste)? Maybe the Seven 22 is more reliable? I dunno.
I shipped it back to the vendor already, but I do remember a faint burning smell I couldn't figure out...
What to do now? The vendor hasn't shipped me the replacement yet (maybe I caught a break?), so should I just ask for a refund? I don't want to end up with a mod that will just eventually break on me...
Maybe I should get store credit and put it towards that IPV V2 (making my 26650 batteries and Aerotank Giant a waste)? Maybe the Seven 22 is more reliable? I dunno.
Last edited:
Oh yeah...
Hold the mod in one hand upside down hold a flat blade screwdriver in the other hand point down. put the blade in the groove where the o-ring was, it will be at a pretty good angle hold it tight. Now the most important part get someone you trust. Have them hammer the end of the screw driver. A few taps each side 180 out and she pops right off.
Hold the mod in one hand upside down hold a flat blade screwdriver in the other hand point down. put the blade in the groove where the o-ring was, it will be at a pretty good angle hold it tight. Now the most important part get someone you trust. Have them hammer the end of the screw driver. A few taps each side 180 out and she pops right off.
Well, on the bright side, your method worked perfectly. Not so bright side, I seem to have the same issue you do. My chip isn't as bad as yours, but the sealer on it IS bubbled. Guess it's time to re purpose this useless metal tube.
So, after further investigation once I reassembled it, I've discovered that I have highest power when I set it to 7.4w. My multimeter reads it as 3.73-3.75v with a 1.6 ohm coil, but at every other level I tried it at reads 3.12v, including at 30w. My iTaste reads it as 1.5 ohms, and at 11w gets 3.53-3.55v. I'll try it again later with a subohm coil and see what happens there. Probably doesn't help anyone, but I found it interesting.
Sent from my HTC One
Sent from my HTC One
Introducing the Seven 50 by Pioneer4350ZMO LOL
Works great, the SX350 is a better board than the SX300 anyways. View attachment 358508 View attachment 358509
Works great, the SX350 is a better board than the SX300 anyways. View attachment 358508 View attachment 358509
Back running the very same atty that burned up the SX300
View attachment 358584
A dual donut BIG Fogger at .55 ohm.
The SX350 is longer so be advised, this takes some modding to fit.
View attachment 358584
A dual donut BIG Fogger at .55 ohm.
The SX350 is longer so be advised, this takes some modding to fit.
I see you've got an 18650 in there now, does it rattle at all? Also, did you solder the battery connection directly to the bottom of the board like on the 300, or is it wired? My original plan was to put a 350 into mine, to have a 350 tube mod, so I can probably figure out the rest.
Sent from my HTC One
No its a 26650. If you wanted to use an 18650 I think there are plastic tube spacers or you could make one.
I took the battery pin off the 300 board and soldered it to the battery wire on the 350 but not the board per se via a real short wire solder. The battery pin is hollow so the wire goes through it and if you know how can flow solder through it. Too much epoxy on the 350 to go to board. But it goes through a delrin spacer which can all be epoxied to the 350 board. That battery post also goes through the middle tube ring so fit check and alignment is necessary before epoxy sets. That middle tube ring is welded in three spots but can be broken free and must be to accommodate the longer 350. Then it can be epoxied to the tube on reassembly. The overall length is longer due to the 350 board being longer but I was able to flip the bottom battery plug over and get a couple threads. No rattles and works great but the bottom battery post sticks out. Would prefer a screw in cap if I can find one. If I cant I'll make a washer to epoxy on the bottom so it's flush with the battery post.
I too wanted a 350 tube mod and was thinking of doing it but luckily was forced into making one because the SX300 fried. LOL.
I took the battery pin off the 300 board and soldered it to the battery wire on the 350 but not the board per se via a real short wire solder. The battery pin is hollow so the wire goes through it and if you know how can flow solder through it. Too much epoxy on the 350 to go to board. But it goes through a delrin spacer which can all be epoxied to the 350 board. That battery post also goes through the middle tube ring so fit check and alignment is necessary before epoxy sets. That middle tube ring is welded in three spots but can be broken free and must be to accommodate the longer 350. Then it can be epoxied to the tube on reassembly. The overall length is longer due to the 350 board being longer but I was able to flip the bottom battery plug over and get a couple threads. No rattles and works great but the bottom battery post sticks out. Would prefer a screw in cap if I can find one. If I cant I'll make a washer to epoxy on the bottom so it's flush with the battery post.
I too wanted a 350 tube mod and was thinking of doing it but luckily was forced into making one because the SX300 fried. LOL
.- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
