The Overlooked Tootle Puffer Gear Thread
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BlastedAnd does it come with a battery cover?
Ripped off, eh Yeah, they have styled it like the Billet Box, but is slightly taller and thicker (to account for the 18350s, rather than the 16340s the BB takes). I'll compare it when I get back home on the weekend.
Hey, I'm using that excuse in a few days!! Still have some brand NIB 18650's I ordered around 6months ago, and they NEED homes!!Spoken like a true ECFer, "oh, but I had batteries. I NEEDED a mod to go with them."
Sounds better to me in the battery aspect.. Isn't a 16340 a CR123? Not saying its bad, as I use them for Flashlights.. But in a box mod I would rather use certain 18350's..Blasted
Yeah, they have styled it like the Billet Box, but is slightly taller and thicker (to account for the 18350s, rather than the 16340s the BB takes). I'll compare it when I get back home on the weekend.
Really enjoying this thread so thank you @roxynoodle!
I am thinking about adding a mech or two. I have one mech, a MicroStick that I quite like.
I'm a toodle puffer. Any comments on these;
$15.92 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - 18350 / 18500 / 18650 mod at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$8.99 Origin Style Mechanical Mod - adjustable throw / w/ kick tube at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
The Nemesis is tried and true, and has stood the test of time (well, as far as vape gear goes
)The Origin is 21mm. It was made for the Aqua v1. The Erlk and Tilemahos v1 also look nice on it. Other attys may overhang a bit on each side, but unless you're OCD its not an issue. Also batteries with thick wrappers may not go in or come out easily.
Show us your build and wick..maybe we can helpI saw that, but I'm going to have to think about it. I think Kayfuns hate me! I continue to have problems with the 3.1s that I have. 2 tanks and then dry hits. And I've carefully gone through every tutorial and asked questions here in this thread, but still have that problem. They hate me, I swear they do!
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Hey Hobbes4!
If you ordered the Snapdragon from 3F then see if you can Cancel it.
I spent an few hours playing with mine just to get it usable last night. You might want to try the SS316 one from FT instead.
The 510 cap, airflow ring and positive post screw are very similar in operation to the Rose V2. There is an insulator on the bottom of the deck that has a hole for the positive post screw and a divot for the negative post screw so it won't short.
Here is a picture from FC's version.
The bottom cap is left hand threaded onto the base, you only have about 3 threads to use on the base so it does not easily stay tight. There is no stick tool like the Rose has to tighten it up properly. The black bowtie thing is the insulator which goes over the screws, positive post screw sticks through the hole and touches the 510 plate (exactly like the Rose's 510 plate).
Here is the issue.
The bowtie has those 90 degree cutouts for the two air holes and it lines up perfectly when installed over the screws, it does not stay in the bottom cap. When you screw the bottom cap on, the three air holes for each side will not line up in the middle of the cutouts and you can end up with 2 holes blocked by the end of the bowtie. The height of the positive post screw dictates where the base stops turning and where the holes will come to a rest, the postive post screw is NOT adjustable. I had managed to get mine centered in relation to the deck air hole last night by cutting circles of paper the same size as the 510 plate with a center hole and using them as shims. It worked until I found that the both posts were not tight enough and turned while I was tightening down the grub screw on a Clapton coil I had made for it.
Off with the bottom cap, put the hex wrench on the coil screw and tighten the positive post screw. Good now all nice and tight I replaced the bottom cap and my holes were out of align with one hole blocked by the bowtie. I had shortened the distance of the positive post screw and now the bottom cap would turn a little bit further.
Too late at that point and I didn't fix it, I put the atty back on the Sigelei Mini 30W and it showed Atomizer Short...
Looking into the deck I could see the positive post had moved to the side enough to touch the deck itself. They made the insulator for the positive post flush with the deck instead of a .5mm taller and the screw has some play through that insulator. Off with the bottom to adjust the post and positive screw again. With it lined up enough not to short I wasn't worried about the airflow holes again.
The airflow ring doesn't really line up with the horizontal center of the holes and it leaves a gap as it is a hair too narrow for the space between the bottom cap and the deck edge. That is just a nit pick and not a problem.
So there is some tinkering involved to get this nice and tight and working. Major tinkering if you have any OCD like I do.
That Clapton was too hot (not enough airflow) so I took it out and put in a dual 26g 0.4 ohm build. The vape is nice the flavor is good, nothing spectacular though. It can get a little warm with the stubby DT and the cap has a smaller hole so not all DT's will fit.
I am going to:
1. Cut a small washer from a PTFE juice bottle to use as a positive post to deck insulator. A wrap or two of something on the positive post screw threads to take up the slack through the deck insulator.
2. Find the correct height with shims under the positive post screw, or the 510 plate so the bottom cap air holes will line up centered on the deck's airhole.
3. Or cut the corners off of the bottom insulator turning it into a rectangle with a hole instead of a bowtie. That might actually be the easiest fix but my OCD will not like the air holes not centered, even though they are working perfectly.
For $16 I really cant complain and a little modding of a clone atty is par for the course.
Last edited:
Hey Hobbes4!
If you ordered the Snapdragon from 3F then see if you can Cancel it.
I spent an few hours playing with mine just to get it usable last night. You might want to try the SS316 one from FT instead.
The 510 cap, airflow ring and positive post screw are very similar in operation to the Rose V2. There is an insulator on the bottom of the deck that has a hole for the positive post screw and a divot for the negative post screw so it won't short.
Here is a picture from FC's version.
The bottom cap is left hand threaded onto the base, you only have about 3 threads to use on the base so it does not easily stay tight. There is no stick tool like the Rose has to tighten it up properly. The black bowtie thing is the insulator which goes over the screws, positive post screw sticks through the hole and touches the 510 plate (exactly like the Rose's 510 plate).
Here is the issue.
The bowtie has those 90 degree cutouts for the two air holes and it lines up perfectly when installed over the screws, it does not stay in the bottom cap. When you screw the bottom cap on, the three air holes for each side will not line up in the middle of the cutouts and you can end up with 2 holes blocked by the end of the bowtie. The height of the positive post screw dictates where the base stops turning and where the holes will come to a rest, the postive post screw is NOT adjustable. I had managed to get mine centered in relation to the deck air hole last night by cutting circles of paper the same size as the 510 plate with a center hole and using them as shims. It worked until I found that the both posts were not tight enough and turned while I was tightening down the grub screw on a Clapton coil I had made for it.
Off with the bottom cap, put the hex wrench on the coil screw and tighten the positive post screw. Good now all nice and tight I replaced the bottom cap and my holes were out of align with one hole blocked by the bowtie. I had shortened the distance of the positive post screw and now the bottom cap would turn a little bit further.
Too late at that point and I didn't fix it, I put the atty back on the Sigelei Mini 30W and it showed Atomizer Short...
Looking into the deck I could see the positive post had moved to the side enough to touch the deck itself. They made the insulator for the positive post flush with the deck instead of a .5mm taller and the screw has some play through that insulator. Off with the bottom to adjust the post and positive screw again. With it lined up enough not to short I wasn't worried about the airflow holes again.
The airflow ring doesn't really line up with the horizontal center of the holes and it leaves a gap as it is a hair too narrow for the space between the bottom cap and the deck edge. That is just a nit pick and not a problem.
So there is some tinkering involved to get this nice and tight and working. Major tinkering if you have any OCD like I do.
That Clapton was too hot (not enough airflow) so I took it out and put in a dual 26g 0.4 ohm build. The vape is nice the flavor is good, nothing spectacular though. It can get a little warm with the stubby DT and the cap has a smaller hole so not all DT's will fit.
I am going to:
1. Cut a small washer from a PTFE juice bottle to use as a positive post to deck insulator. A wrap or two of something on the positive post screw threads to take up the slack through the deck insulator.
2. Find the correct height with shims under the positive post screw, or the 510 plate so the bottom cap air holes will line up centered on the deck's airhole.
3. Or cut the corners off of the bottom insulator turning it into a rectangle with a hole instead of a bowtie. That might actually be the easiest fix but my OCD will not like the air holes not centered, even though they are working perfectly.
For $16 I really cant complain and a little modding of a clone atty is par for the course.
I did order from 3F and it shipped this morning
. Oh well, guess i'll see when it gets here. At least the whole thing comes apart easily and can be fixed. Maybe i should have stuck with the Nectar and just changed the shrink wrap. Another reminder it's always good to wait for reviews.
It is all fixable if you are handy and have the time to tinker. I brought it with me to work today and it did vape quite nicely on the way in with a local B&M's A.D.B MaxVG (All Day Banana)I did order from 3F and it shipped this morning
Tamer, I'm a cell phone luddite, so I don't have a way to take a picture for you.
But I did repurpose one of my Kayfuns a few days ago. Boden was mentioning in the tootle puffer thread that he converted one of his Kayfuns into a dripper. That made me start thinking about the fact that I had a couple of bell caps I got from FT that Troll Dragon told me I wouldn't be able to use without a new chimney. I realized that I could actually use them to make a dripper just by taking out the Kayfun chimney. I'm now liking it more as a dripper than an rta.
This Kayfun abuse has to stop!Tamer, I'm a cell phone luddite, so I don't have a way to take a picture for you.
But I did repurpose one of my Kayfuns a few days ago. Boden was mentioning in the tootle puffer thread that he converted one of his Kayfuns into a dripper. That made me start thinking about the fact that I had a couple of bell caps I got from FT that Troll Dragon told me I wouldn't be able to use without a new chimney. I realized that I could actually use them to make a dripper just by taking out the Kayfun chimney. I'm now liking it more as a dripper than an rta.
Sacrilege I tell you, not to use a Kayfun in its native form...
Be like putting on a pair of Stax SR-009's and listening to Justin Bieber...
Joking aside, the Bell Cap is a great idea!
If you could block the bottom air hole and cut slits or holes into the side of the bell cap, I think it would be even better.
Similar to the Trinity glass caps for Drippers.
This Kayfun abuse has to stop!
Sacrilege I tell you, not to use a Kayfun in its native form...
Be like putting on a pair of Stax SR-009's and listening to Justin Bieber...
Joking aside, the Bell Cap is a great idea!
If you could block the bottom air hole and cut slits or holes into the side of the bell cap, I think it would be even better.
Similar to the Trinity glass caps for Drippers.
TD, you will NEVER catch me listening to Justin Bieber!
Cutting slits in the side of the bell cap is a great idea! I'll have to look around and see if I have something that will cut it without mangling it up.
Won't work as well as it does now.TD, you will NEVER catch me listening to Justin Bieber!
Cutting slits in the side of the bell cap is a great idea! I'll have to look around and see if I have something that will cut it without mangling it up.
I ordered two more Tobeco Orchid V5's last night, Figured at $8 a piece they're great to have around.
I like them a lot.
Eric
I like them a lot.
Eric
Coil will be outside the airflow stream.
I found one that I want, but it seems to no longer exists -- so now I want it even more. I couldn't find it anywhere, even if I were willing to pay in rupees. When things are sold out at Fasttech, do they ever come back?
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