Too hot, not just warm

[LeahB]

I have a box, which I love, but wanted a mech for backup. Luckily (so I thought) I had a friend who was getting rid of his Prax2s to slim down his collection. He left the battery in for me so I'd have an extra, nice of him. Toss my Troll (which I'm not fond of) on it. Hit a few times, no problem, giving a minute in between for it to cool down. (Not that it was warm then, but was just checking it out) Hit it again and it burns me. I'm not talking 'oh, that's a little warm and uncomfortable'. NO. IT BURNED ME. My palm is still red and stinging. He said that its never happened to him and had no clue why it would. Someone please give some input here. (Clapton coil, .53 oHm, 2600 mAH battery)

 

[edyle]

praxis is a fakehybrid like the SMPL.
no centerpin.

recipe for a meltdown.

do not use.


https://img.fasttechcdn.com/199/1997901/1997901-3.jpg


if you rda has a centerpin which is flush with the 510 threads that surround it, when you fire your mod you get an instant direct short circuit.

 

[LeahB]

A fake hybrid? Like I said, I'm new to mech, so what am I missing? How is it a fake? Thought the basic definition of hybrid was 'no additional connection between battery and atty'. The praxis does have a top cap, but it does not separate the battery and atty.

 

[edyle]

A fake hybrid? Like I said, I'm new to mech, so what am I missing? How is it a fake? Thought the basic definition of hybrid was 'no additional connection between battery and atty'. The praxis does have a top cap, but it does not separate the battery and atty.

Here is what I am vaping on right now:

True hybrid connection.
No 510 threads.
It threads at the 20mm level, not the little cigalike sized 510 threading.

The fakehybrids just have the 510 thread on the mod side, with no centerpin at all, and they depend on YOU the user to know beforehand that in order to make it work your rda or tank must have a centerpin that sticks out alot and won't get pressed back in when you screw it on.

Your praxis does not separate the battery from the atty, but it also does not separate the positive centerpin from the negative 510 thread.

 

[LeahB]

But the top cap can be removed and the mod has those threads. I don't have an atty to fit it, so I have to use the top cap. Seems more like an adapter opposed to necessity. (Please don't think I'm arguing, just trying to learn) Also, still an answer as to why this happened would be great. I did take it apart and found some corrosion on inside of case and firing button, same spot that burned me. So I cleaned that, all nice and shiny and clean threads now.

 

[edyle]

But the top cap can be removed and the mod has those threads. I don't have an atty to fit it, so I have to use the top cap. Seems more like an adapter opposed to necessity. (Please don't think I'm arguing, just trying to learn) Also, still an answer as to why this happened would be great. I did take it apart and found some corrosion on inside of case and firing button, same spot that burned me. So I cleaned that, all nice and shiny and clean threads now.

I gave you the answer here:

they depend on YOU the user to know beforehand that in order to make it work your rda or tank must have a centerpin that sticks out alot and won't get pressed back in when you screw it on.

your troll rda centerpin is probably flush/flat with the 510 thread that goes around it.

That copper centerpin is supposed to contact the positive of the battery.
The silver around it is supposed to only contact the 510 threads of the mod which is negative.

When you screw it directly onto the battery, BOTH touch the positive of the battery.
Instant short when you press the fire button.

 

[edyle]

Here is a pic of an rda where you can see that the centerpin clearly sticks out visibly.

It probably sticks out about a millimeter. With this rda on a praxis, you would be 1mm away from a short.
if the top of the battery becomes indented in over time, you eventually end up with the problem anyway.

 

[B2L]

A fake hybrid? Like I said, I'm new to mech, so what am I missing? How is it a fake? Thought the basic definition of hybrid was 'no additional connection between battery and atty'. The praxis does have a top cap, but it does not separate the battery and atty.

In a true hybrid, both the atty and battery tube are designed to be used together exclusively. With a ""fake" hybrid' the adapter is designed to be used with all 510s but unfortunately not all 510s are designed to be used with it. If you use a device with a 510 that doesn't play well, as edyle said you have an instant short.

The problem lies in the fact that an incompatible 510 will still screw on as well as an appropriate one. Unless you know what to look for, the protruding pin, you won't know there's an issue until you hit the button.

 

[LeahB]

Gotcha! The troll does stick out a little, can't see it I that pic though. But it's maybe a 1/2mm... well dang!! Guess that means I've gotta go get a new one.

 

[LeahB]

Next question... the center pin is slotted and can be unscrewed to lengthen it. Can't I do that for now or will it effect the connection?

 

[LeahB]

Troll RDA by Wotofo | Vape Affliction

Would that make it compatible? (I ask bc my other is the same way)

 

[edyle]

Next question... the center pin is slotted and can be unscrewed to lengthen it. Can't I do that for now or will it effect the connection?

Yes the centerpin is slotted like most rda's however unscrewing it usually loosens the center post on the top; it's not actually an adjustment screw.

by the way, you should make that battery; once a battery gets shorted out you should keep a note of it for future reference. can't see what damage might have occurred on the inside.

the energy of these lithium batteries is comparable to the energy of a bullet, and it's really not worth it cutting corners with them.

 

[edyle]

Gotcha! The troll does stick out a little, can't see it I that pic though. But it's maybe a 1/2mm... well dang!! Guess that means I've gotta go get a new one.

1/2mm means you are 1/2 mm away from a short.

On my 3d rda, I've got like 5mm clearance between positive and negative. There's just no way for me to short out my battery when I screw it on.

I don't know what thread the praxis is but if you get a proper topcap that comes with a centerpin, that will solve the problem.

I thin the thread is m20x1

 

[LeahB]

Yes sir, that battery is marked!! I wouldn't have thought of it, but a good idea, thank you! And that link said adjustable, which is why I was curious. I did extend them and then checked the center post(s) and I couldn't feel any movement/wiggle in post or pin. Trying to work with what I have (safely) before I run out to get something new.

 

[classwife]

Moved this to New Members from Simple Solutions
Simple Solutions is to assist the Beginning Vaper with getting started

 

[vapero]

1mm from a short... Sounds really dramatic! I used "fake" hybrids exclusively for more than a year and never shorted my. 5mm protruding RDAs, just make sure that your positive pin isn't moving and it's protruding doesn't matter if it sticks. 3mm our a meter it is safe

By the way, you did short it

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[jwbnyc]

You should pitch that battery.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

I would definitely toss the battery out. That corrosion you found inside the tube is no good. It could be some of the "goo" inside the battery. I would never trust a battery that had been shorted again. And if you are new to mechs, a pseudo-hybrid is a bad choice. I've been using mechs for almost a year now and still don't trust them. Just too much potential for bad things to happen.

 

[Bunnykiller]

I find that having a fake hybrid isnt the real problem.... its the batteries flexible + cap that bends and allows the contact to be made to the negative part of the atty.... if the battery top cap was rigid, then the negative portion of the atty should never hit the + cap.... think about it... you can take a 510 connect atty with a minimum + pin protrusion and press it firmly onto something rigid ( like a glass surface) and the negative threads never touch the surface. But take that same atty and press it into a soft flexible surface ( rubber) and there ya go negative thread contact...

 

[LeahB]

I find that having a fake hybrid isnt the real problem.... its the batteries flexible + cap that bends and allows the contact to be made to the negative part of the atty.... if the battery top cap was rigid, then the negative portion of the atty should never hit the + cap.... think about it... you can take a 510 connect atty with a minimum + pin protrusion and press it firmly onto something rigid ( like a glass surface) and the negative threads never touch the surface. But take that same atty and press it into a soft flexible surface ( rubber) and there ya go negative thread contact...

The praxis does have a thicker brass top cap, but I haven't thought about what you pointed you. Thanks for the heads up!!