Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[dwcraig1]

When you measure amperage the meter is in a series with the line that your testing.
Example: battery with it's negative attached with a wire to a light bulb's negative, the positive end of the battery attaches to one probe of your meter. the other probe attaches to the light bulbs positive. When on amperage scale this will show the amp draw of the bulb at the batteries voltage.
The meter becomes part of the circuit.
I hope I said this to where it can be understood.

 

[damped]

@dwcraig1
The meter becomes part of the circuit.

That's a important difference between volt/amp measuring and also the mistake that happens the most when trying measuring amps

 

[aldenf]

@dwcraig1
The meter becomes part of the circuit.

That's a important difference between volt/amp measuring and also the mistake that happens the most when trying measuring amps

This is why inductive ammeters have become so popular. They remain outside the circuit.

 

[dwcraig1]

The concern of the OP was not being able to measure the voltage on an atty's post because of the 10 amp limitation of the meter.
I was trying to explain why it wasn't relative as it's voltage only that's being measured.

 

[Unior]

If anyone is not busy today could you do me a huge favor? My computer is on the outs and I wanted to know the NP values based on @TheBloke calculator. I have used trial and error so far and would like to know how close I am.Here are my values:
Target Temp. = 440F Target Temp. = 440
Wire Type = ni200 Wire Type = ni200
Starting temp = 20C Starting Temp. = 20C
ohm Reading = 0.10 ohm Reading = 0.08
ohm Actual = 0.14 ohm Actual = 0.14

I really appreciae it if someone get a chance to plug this in!
Also, has anyone used this TC calculator via ipad?

 

[TheBloke]

When you measure amperage the meter is in a series with the line that your testing.
Example: battery with it's negative attached with a wire to a light bulb's negative, the positive end of the battery attaches to one probe of your meter. the other probe attaches to the light bulbs positive. When on amperage scale this will show the amp draw of the bulb at the batteries voltage.
The meter becomes part of the circuit.
I hope I said this to where it can be understood.

Yup perfect, thanks! So in the mod example, to measure the amperage of a mod with a DMM, I would have to wire the batteries through the DMM into the mod.

OK I will try some DMM volt measurements, thanks

 

[TheBloke]

If anyone is not busy today could you do me a huge favor? My computer is on the outs and I wanted to know the NP values based on @TheBloke calculator. I have used trial and error so far and would like to know how close I am.Here are my values:
Target Temp. = 440F Target Temp. = 440
Wire Type = ni200 Wire Type = ni200
Starting temp = 20C Starting Temp. = 20C
ohm Reading = 0.10 ohm Reading = 0.08
ohm Actual = 0.14 ohm Actual = 0.14

I really appreciae it if someone get a chance to plug this in!
Also, has anyone used this TC calculator via ipad?

Based on that you have to use NP100 but it won't be terribly accurate (the real value required is a fair bit over 100.)

But are you sure you're getting a -0.06 drop? That's more than anyone else has recorded at those resistance levels. It doesnt normally reach 0.06 until the 0.20 (real) level.

I would say if you're reading 0.08, then the real reading is maybe 0.12, and I would try 0.08->0.10 to account for SR in the atty. which is NP90.

So try between NP90 and NP100, see how you go. Keep an eye on the screen, is your target temperature being reached or at least close to it? If you configure 440F and the mod says it's never at more than 300, then you know the setting is way out and it won't limit temperature. Ditto if TP flashes almost immediately so it limits too fast.

There's a lot of factors at work here so don't be afraid to just try different values. Including varying the target temperature.

 

[Almighty]

2 ppls on fasttech posted the same problem with their 60w flasks they just received, heres what they wrote



1. Hmmm.... mine arrived today. Otherwise everything seems to be in order, but the mod won't recognise the resistance of the atty. Just keeps showing 0.0 ohms and when I try to fire it says 'Low Res'. Have tried with several tanks but no change. The mechanical contact seems to be there with the center pin.

Did I just receive a piece of s**t that I need to return or is there something that I can do about this?

2. Hmmmm, got mine today and got the same problem, even mine is the black. Any atty I screw on it is read at 0.0 ohms and vf won't fire... Did you solve this problem? I've already opened a Ticket :-(

 

[Quantum Mech]

2 ppls on fasttech posted the same problem with their 60w flasks they just received, heres what they wrote



1. Hmmm.... mine arrived today. Otherwise everything seems to be in order, but the mod won't recognise the resistance of the atty. Just keeps showing 0.0 ohms and when I try to fire it says 'Low Res'. Have tried with several tanks but no change. The mechanical contact seems to be there with the center pin.

Did I just receive a piece of s**t that I need to return or is there something that I can do about this?

2. Hmmmm, got mine today and got the same problem, even mine is the black. Any atty I screw on it is read at 0.0 ohms and vf won't fire... Did you solve this problem? I've already opened a Ticket :-(

There is no earth wire to top plate I believe

Wheres @TheBloke when you need him

The fix is a light sand of under side of top plate and case mating service

 

[KenD]

2 ppls on fasttech posted the same problem with their 60w flasks they just received, heres what they wrote



1. Hmmm.... mine arrived today. Otherwise everything seems to be in order, but the mod won't recognise the resistance of the atty. Just keeps showing 0.0 ohms and when I try to fire it says 'Low Res'. Have tried with several tanks but no change. The mechanical contact seems to be there with the center pin.

Did I just receive a piece of s**t that I need to return or is there something that I can do about this?

2. Hmmmm, got mine today and got the same problem, even mine is the black. Any atty I screw on it is read at 0.0 ohms and vf won't fire... Did you solve this problem? I've already opened a Ticket :-(

Which atty are you using? I had problems with the subtank mini on my vaporshark clone, the spring loaded 510 connector simply wasn't strong enough to push the atty's positive pin far enough to make proper contact with the RBA deck.

 

[TheBloke]

Oh that sucks. Maybe the low resistance has got so bad it's now -1Ω or something! But no, probably just a couple of glitches in that batch.

In other news, I have been grappling with my 510 all evening. I managed to get my GT2 on there so tight than trying to unscrew it unscrewed the entire 510. That was fun. I've finally managed to get the GT2 off and am now in the process of re-tightening the 510 back together.

 

[TheBloke]

In other news, I have been grappling with my 510 all evening. I managed to get my GT2 on there so tight than trying to unscrew it unscrewed the entire 510. That was fun. I've finally managed to get the GT2 off and am now in the process of re-tightening the 510 back together.

All fixed, with thankfully no damage it seems - besides a few scrapes to the internal brass nut of the 510 where I was trying to hold it and tighten it without the right sized spanner.

I took the opportunity to do a little sanding to the underneath of the top place and the mating surface, although I've not had any issues with that so far.

 

[Matty316]

I emailed a guy at SXK last night and gave him the full detail of these problems. If he replies - or even if he doesn't - I will link him to your post and to any others I can find of people saying the resistance problems are causing them to want to return this mod, or not like it or whatever.

Thanks mate.
I got mine from fasttech so not sure what the returns policy will be from SXK. If they could possibly take mine and reprogram the chip to fix the problem that would be great.
I'd rather keep it if they can do that because I really like this mod it has everything I've been looking for. It's just this resistance thing that lets it down.

 

[sonicbomb]

I usually use a ST Mini on my Kangxin, and I'm finding that now there is a significant amount free play on the 510. Theres about 1mm of movement on at the base so it wobbles slightly. The STM is pretty long compared to an RDA so there is extra leverage at play. I'm not sure if this is due to wear on the Flask 510 threads, the size of the STM 510, or because of the times I have dropped the flask quite badly.
Anyone else experienced this?

 

[JAlexander]

something else i noticed today:

when i first put in my battery the screen comes on and says

ELOVE DNA 40

has anyone else seen this?

it has shut off one more time on me. not really sure what is happening. i gave it a smack and the love message came back up. any ideas?

 

[Almighty]

they made it like that

 

[Croak]

I usually use a ST Mini on my Kangxin, and I'm finding that now there is a significant amount free play on the 510. Theres about 1mm of movement on at the base so it wobbles slightly. The STM is pretty long compared to an RDA so there is extra leverage at play. I'm not sure if this is due to wear on the Flask 510 threads, the size of the STM 510, or because of the times I have dropped the flask quite badly.
Anyone else experienced this?

Yeah, it's because the 510 is press fitted in, there's no nut on the back to add stability and spread the load from the atomizer. Brass and aluminum being flexed in a small area doesn't end well in the long run.

 

[Almighty]

Yeah, it's because the 510 is press fitted in, there's no nut on the back to add stability and spread the load from the atomizer. Brass and aluminum being flexed in a small area doesn't end well in the long run.

is it the same for the sxk?

 

[Croak]

is it the same for the sxk?

No, the SXK and the Waidea both use a "properly" mounted 510, with a threaded retaining nut on the underside.

 

[Almighty]

nice to hear