Ive got a VTR on order that is coming with a 3400mah battery. Is this the mah I want? I will likely just be using protank or iclear 30 that comes with it. No sub ohm set ups. Is the lower mah for more amps. Im confused.
That's if you buy a Panasonic with a protection PCB, Panasonic has sold their batts with or without the protection for as long as I can remember. I've been using the NCR18650B in my mod for about 6 months now, there alright to use if you not using a variable or regulated device and not going under 1.2 ohms.The only 3400 mAh battery that I know of is the Panasonic NCR18650B which is a protected battery, and not high drain nor safe chemistry. It also sells for a whopping $18.50. Orbtonic has a disclaimer on this battery's page listing:
"Protected Li-ion 18650 batteries are made for high performance flashlights, not for e-cig mods."
The only 3400 mAh battery that I know of is the Panasonic NCR18650B which is a protected battery, and not high drain nor safe chemistry. It also sells for a whopping $18.50. Orbtonic has a disclaimer on this battery's page listing:
For what you're doing, the higher mah is just fine. You're right though about lower mah having a niche. Increasing mah lowers maximum amp output, which in turn increases you minimum resistance to use it safely. The sub-ohm guys need really high discharge rate, but for the higher resistance levels it isn't as necessary. When you get your battery you'll want to see what the chemistry is (though coming from a reputable vape dealer it should be IMR) and check Baditude's blog to get your C rating. from there you can see how low is too low with your coils. I think I know which battery you're talking about and as long as you're not going sub-ohm you should be fine.
MAH rating is the "approximate" life of a full battery charge - MilliAmpere-Hour. The advertised voltage, which most likely is 3.7volts, is where your "power" comes from. For example mine is a 2000mAh 18650. Almost all of them are 3.7v.
Do you have a link for the battery you purchased?
I'm having trouble following your logic here. My understanding is higher amp discharge is directly related to the C rating of the battery, not solely on battery mAh capacity. I know they are interrelated, how do you explain the higher amp ratings of the lower mAh batteries like the AW 1600mAh, MNKE 1500mAh, and Efest 1600mAh having amp discharge rates of 24, 20, and 30 than a NCR18650PD 2900mAh that has only 10A?But either way you go, having more mAh means you can have a higher amp discharge.
Ok.... now that we've cleared that up. On to drip tips....swirly purple plastic or skull with top hat? Lol
Wait...what? Did you just call out Baditude on batteries?Wrong on all counts.
While there are some protected NCR18650B's not all have a protection circuit (I use them in my Vamos and eVics which won't work with protected batteries).
All NCRs that I have found are "New Nickle Platform" meaning they are safe chemistry (sounds like along the lines of what people call "hybrids").
As far as high drain, that depends on what you call high drain. They're not 10a but they are high enough to handle some sub-ohm drains. PD is a higher drain (10a I think) but that's only required if your application demands it.
Not only all of that but IMO NCRs are safer than IMR and CGR. (I tried oxidizing a wick with my CGR's and they got scary hot, scary fast, never a problem using my NCR's.)
NCR18650B is the optional battery that you can get officially from Joyetech for eVics.
For my average use (vv/vw 2Ω) B is my preferred battery. For extreme situations A is next up (and I watch the drain because it's also not a 10a battery). I really don't like PDs.