I got a question. I am wanting an unregulated box mod that I saw at my local b&m. I am curious to know if my LG 18650 3.7V 3000mAh (it says they are 20Amp) batteries will be good with it at .5 to 1.0 ohms. I have been building my kbox mini rba at .5 to .6 ohms but of course it is regulated. I am also wondering on how to know when the battery is getting low as mechanical mods don't have a nifty little screen saying wattage, volts, battery level, etc... Any info will be appreciated.
1st Mech Mod
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I'll let someone else address the first part of your question. As far as knowing when your battery is at a change out point, I use the level of liquid in the tank to judge that. I fill the tank to a level that when it get's down to the bottom of the tank, I know it's time to change the battery. Until you learn that level to fill to, fill the tank, then check the battery at about half full, then judge from there. Hope this helps.
that sounds doable...never thought of it that way...my batteries charge to 4.2 volts...what volt should I look for when its time to change battery (or liquid is low)? 3.2, 3.6? I'm a noob to mech mods.
If your LG's are brown, they sound like HG2's, but please verify that first. Should be stamped on the battery.
HG2's are very reliable 20amp batteries, and you'll be plenty fine @ .5ohms & above. @ .5ohms, you'll be @ 8.4amps on a fully charged battery.
Mooch's blogs here on ECF are the best(IMO) resources for battery info.
As far as knowing when they are low....you'll just *know*! You're vape quality will drop off to a point where you can just tell. Coils won't fire as quickly, flavor & vapor will drop off...you'll learn!
HG2's are very reliable 20amp batteries, and you'll be plenty fine @ .5ohms & above. @ .5ohms, you'll be @ 8.4amps on a fully charged battery.
Mooch's blogs here on ECF are the best(IMO) resources for battery info.
As far as knowing when they are low....you'll just *know*! You're vape quality will drop off to a point where you can just tell. Coils won't fire as quickly, flavor & vapor will drop off...you'll learn!
Awesome. They are hg2's the number is actually lgdbhg21865. I was just wondering what ohm to wrap at so I don't blow myself up...lol
I change my batteries out at about 3.7v's, but it's ok to go lower till as mentioned above, you feel the difference in the vape.
You can get an inline volt meter that screws on to where you would put your atomizer to tell you the voltage (and voltage drop), but to be honest they are a waste of money. I got one, used it once and into my vape box it went.
As others have said, you will notice a drop in performance, if you vape at home then you will be able to check the battery voltage periodically with a multimeter, that way you can see what the vape feels like as the battery charge decreases. If you can see what it is like at 3.6-3.7V then you can use that as your reference point and know to change the battery then.
As others have said, you will notice a drop in performance, if you vape at home then you will be able to check the battery voltage periodically with a multimeter, that way you can see what the vape feels like as the battery charge decreases. If you can see what it is like at 3.6-3.7V then you can use that as your reference point and know to change the battery then.
Yeah, the lg2 is one of the best batteries for down to 0.2 or so on single cell mech and you are probably getting a dual parallel mech with double the amp possibilitty if using both cells at once... You can check now on your kbox what it will feel like, by first setting the wattage to 35w and then afterwards on 27w, as I guess the kbox dosen't do volts only watts. That's the 0.5 coil at 4.2v and 3.7v, in a perfect world without battery sag/voltage-drop. If you don't mind the decline, then it's also fine to just change at e.g. 3.2v, like most regulated devices does, which is at about 20 watts, so if you at full battery gets max 35w and then you change it at min 20w, and between 35w and 20w there's a pretty big diff imho 
The cells will last a little longer though if changing out at e.g. min 3.7v, but it's up to your own preferences on this...
The cells will last a little longer though if changing out at e.g. min 3.7v, but it's up to your own preferences on this...I kinda understand that....yes the mech mod I want is parallel...so with those batteries I would get a total of 40 c amps instead if the 20? That would mean if I wrap a dual coil at total of .5 ohm I would be good to go, safely.
Yes, a parallel mech box gives you the same volts(4.2v), but double current(amps) and capacity(mah), whereas a series mech box doubles the voltage and leaves amps and mah the same. No matter if dual parallel or single mech, with a HG2, then 0.5ohms is no worries whatsoever for that. As said, the HG2 can go down to 0.2 fine, which is 21amps only for very shortly and climbs down to 18amps and below during it's course.
It's only with regulated mods which needs some head-room in the amp-limit of the batteries, since they need to retain the current during lower and lower voltage(so amp draw should be calculated upon lowest voltage possible) + make up for an non-100% efficient circuitry, but with mech's, going atleast up to the cdr for the full voltage of the battery is fine. Note, that's from a safety standpoint and not a longevity one, since running up against the cdr always will be tougher on the cells
The HG2 is listed in Mooch's battery safety pdf as a 20amp CDR cell, just like it's producer defines it, and in Mooch's pdf it's listed with a max amp of 25amp, which is the max pulse(vape) amp draw safe to use with also a little headroom for accidents like e.g. stuck down fire-buttons etc.
It's only with regulated mods which needs some head-room in the amp-limit of the batteries, since they need to retain the current during lower and lower voltage(so amp draw should be calculated upon lowest voltage possible) + make up for an non-100% efficient circuitry, but with mech's, going atleast up to the cdr for the full voltage of the battery is fine. Note, that's from a safety standpoint and not a longevity one, since running up against the cdr always will be tougher on the cells
The HG2 is listed in Mooch's battery safety pdf as a 20amp CDR cell, just like it's producer defines it, and in Mooch's pdf it's listed with a max amp of 25amp, which is the max pulse(vape) amp draw safe to use with also a little headroom for accidents like e.g. stuck down fire-buttons etc.
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