$21.90 Mech Bottom feeder

[crunchie812]

After a month of absolutely flawless operation from this mod the negative wire burned out right in the center, and melting a groove in the bottle.
I replaced the negative wire with a paper clip and put in a new bottle and it works flawlessly again.
I was using a .9ohm dual coil build on a Magma for the last week or so, technically a sub ohm build, but hardly a high wattage load.
Definitely, the wires are too small on this mod. It's a damn shame, really, but typical of my experience with a wide range of Chinese manufactured products: generally well made, quality products with at least one brain dead simple flaw that saves no real cost but turns the product into crap.

I really enjoy using this mod. I have no problem with the plastic body, it is light weight but sturdy and very comfortable in the hand. I have no problem with the fact that it uses wires. There is nothing wrong with wire, so long as it is properly sized for the load, which is sadly not the case here.

I plan on replacing the paper clip with some 26 or 24 gauge solid copper wire, as well as the positive wire as soon as I can find some without having to buy a spool of wire. Not a big deal, but annoying as hell because it could so easily been properly done at manufacture.

 

[thetrucker]

After a month of absolutely flawless operation from this mod the negative wire burned out right in the center, and melting a groove in the bottle.
I replaced the negative wire with a paper clip and put in a new bottle and it works flawlessly again.
I was using a .9ohm dual coil build on a Magma for the last week or so, technically a sub ohm build, but hardly a high wattage load.
Definitely, the wires are too small on this mod. It's a damn shame, really, but typical of my experience with a wide range of Chinese manufactured products: generally well made, quality products with at least one brain dead simple flaw that saves no real cost but turns the product into crap.

I really enjoy using this mod. I have no problem with the plastic body, it is light weight but sturdy and very comfortable in the hand. I have no problem with the fact that it uses wires. There is nothing wrong with wire, so long as it is properly sized for the load, which is sadly not the case here.

I plan on replacing the paper clip with some 26 or 24 gauge solid copper wire, as well as the positive wire as soon as I can find some without having to buy a spool of wire. Not a big deal, but annoying as hell because it could so easily been properly done at manufacture.

I took some silver wire that had hight temp insulation on it ---that I got from an old burned out flat iron and rewired my owl.

If you take old household appliances like toasters --flatirons--or hair dryers-curling irons etc etc---you can find some nice wire just the right

size that is bendable and can be soldered into the Smokless Owl for the positive and the negative leads.........worked good foe me but YMMV--your

mileage may vary........this pic is what I did to the owl since it was misfiring all the time--radio shack

switch- spring connector from old battery charger and wire from old flat iron---silver bendable-high temp insulation all ready on it....

 

[crunchie812]

I took some silver wire that had hight temp insulation on it ---that I got from an old burned out flat iron and rewired my owl.

If you take old household appliances like toasters --flatirons--or hair dryers-curling irons etc etc---you can find some nice wire just the right

size that is bendable and can be soldered into the Smokless Owl for the positive and the negative leads.........worked good foe me but YMMV--your

mileage may vary........this pic is what I did to the owl since it was misfiring all the time--radio shack

switch- spring connector from old battery charger and wire from old flat iron---silver bendable-high temp insulation all ready on it.... View attachment 498045

I'll take a look around for some old appliances. I'd prefer something with solid wire, don't care about insulation really, I can use liquid tape on the positive. The paper clip is working astonishingly well considering it isn't even soldered, just wedged tight.

I've had no issues with the switch. I don't see how it could fail to fire as long as the pin comes down enough to contact the battery.
By misfire, do you mean firing when not wanted, or failing to fire? I almost never lock the switch, with the location on top it is nearly impossible to fire accidentally even in my pocket. If I was packing it for a trip or something I'd pull the battery anyway.

 

[thetrucker]

I'll take a look around for some old appliances. I'd prefer something with solid wire, don't care about insulation really, I can use liquid tape on the positive. The paper clip is working astonishingly well considering it isn't even soldered, just wedged tight.

I've had no issues with the switch. I don't see how it could fail to fire as long as the pin comes down enough to contact the battery.
By misfire, do you mean firing when not wanted, or failing to fire? I almost never lock the switch, with the location on top it is nearly impossible to fire accidentally even in my pocket. If I was packing it for a trip or something I'd pull the battery anyway.

My Smokless Owl would give me nothing when I pressed the button and the pin would come down and touch the battery and then if I pressed

it down again sort of from the side of the button then it would fire. Next time I tried it nothing....

I tried the solid copper wire and had a time getting it to bend and so the softer silver wire seemed to work good 4 me.......Now it fires every time

happy with it now!!!

 

[93gc40]

Love my owl it's been flawless, except the fire pin seems to gunk up from arching on the battery.

BUT. The 510 threads are crap..... 2 months and the threads are toast. They weren't the best to begin with. The threads on the Hobo clone I use are poor also. And the cap is kinda tight. So being a squonk newbie, I put allot of pressure on those thread over the time. Taking the cap off all the time to see if I need to squonk and removing the atty for several build / wick changes. Only atty I have that will tighten down is one FC Kayfun clone base and my Sat22. So it's a single battery box mod for the Kayfun for a while.... With extra battery storage. So not a total waste of $25, for now.

Now I gotta decide.... Another Owl? Fix it??? anybody know where I can get a BF 510 that could be mounted? Or get the Reo Clone?

I still recommend the Owl.... Just be gentle with the 510 threads.

 

[crunchie812]

Love my owl it's been flawless, except the fire pin seems to gunk up from arching on the battery.

BUT. The 510 threads are crap..... 2 months and the threads are toast. They weren't the best to begin with. The threads on the Hobo clone I use are poor also. And the cap is kinda tight. So being a squonk newbie, I put allot of pressure on those thread over the time. Taking the cap off all the time to see if I need to squonk and removing the atty for several build / wick changes. Only atty I have that will tighten down is one FC Kayfun clone base and my Sat22. So it's a single battery box mod for the Kayfun for a while.... With extra battery storage. So not a total waste of $25, for now.

Now I gotta decide.... Another Owl? Fix it??? anybody know where I can get a BF 510 that could be mounted? Or get the Reo Clone?

I still recommend the Owl.... Just be gentle with the 510 threads.

No need to take the cap off other than to rebuild or re-wick. When in doubt, squonk! Any excess gets sucked back down.

I got the Hobo3 as well. It's significantly better than the owl atty, but just didn't deliver the flavor that my Magma clone does, so I modded the Magma for BF and it's been nothing but love. It doesn't sit flush, and it doesn't look as cool as the Hobo, but I don't care. I also bought a Dark Horse Mini modded for BF from Roscoe at Apex, very nice but kind of fiddly AFC, but not the quality of vape that the Magma gives.

I have a REO clone on order. I'll have to grind it down to LP for the Magma, but I have a meral cutting chop saw blade on a circular saw that will do that in a flash. I hate to make a recommendation without actually having the REO clone in hand, but based on what I've heard the REO clone is near enough to the real thing as makes no difference. I may just go ahead and get an authentic REO anyway.

 

[b.m.]

Now I gotta decide.... Another Owl? Fix it??? anybody know where I can get a BF 510 that could be mounted? Or get the Reo Clone?

Easy decision right there,order the Reo clone,and fix the smokeless owl while you wait for the Reo clone to show up,then you have 2 sqounkers so you always have a back up haha.I like my smokeless owl,but i highly reccomend the Reo clone,it is fantastic.

 

[Lessifer]

Love my owl it's been flawless, except the fire pin seems to gunk up from arching on the battery.

BUT. The 510 threads are crap..... 2 months and the threads are toast. They weren't the best to begin with. The threads on the Hobo clone I use are poor also. And the cap is kinda tight. So being a squonk newbie, I put allot of pressure on those thread over the time. Taking the cap off all the time to see if I need to squonk and removing the atty for several build / wick changes. Only atty I have that will tighten down is one FC Kayfun clone base and my Sat22. So it's a single battery box mod for the Kayfun for a while.... With extra battery storage. So not a total waste of $25, for now.

Now I gotta decide.... Another Owl? Fix it??? anybody know where I can get a BF 510 that could be mounted? Or get the Reo Clone?

I still recommend the Owl.... Just be gentle with the 510 threads.

No need to take the cap off other than to rebuild or re-wick. When in doubt, squonk! Any excess gets sucked back down.

I got the Hobo3 as well. It's significantly better than the owl atty, but just didn't deliver the flavor that my Magma clone does, so I modded the Magma for BF and it's been nothing but love. It doesn't sit flush, and it doesn't look as cool as the Hobo, but I don't care. I also bought a Dark Horse Mini modded for BF from Roscoe at Apex, very nice but kind of fiddly AFC, but not the quality of vape that the Magma gives.

I have a REO clone on order. I'll have to grind it down to LP for the Magma, but I have a meral cutting chop saw blade on a circular saw that will do that in a flash. I hate to make a recommendation without actually having the REO clone in hand, but based on what I've heard the REO clone is near enough to the real thing as makes no difference. I may just go ahead and get an authentic REO anyway.

I have the REO clone and just got an authenticate a couple weeks ago. The clone is decent, I used a power sander to mod mine to lp. The authentic feels nicer, hits harder, and looks nicer since I didn't have to grind it down.

 

[93gc40]

Easy decision right there,order the Reo clone,and fix the smokeless owl while you wait for the Reo clone to show up,then you have 2 sqounkers so you always have a back up haha.I like my smokeless owl,but i highly reccomend the Reo clone,it is fantastic.

Yeah I think I am going to get the Reo clone and a Chalice.. Not ready to drop $100 plus on authentic. At this point I'm tossing around the Idea of that INOY regulated box, getting a 2/3x18650 box mod (to be converted to BF), Or getting a regulated mod for my Kayfuns and Genis.

ANYBODY have an idea of where to get a replacement 510 socket for the Smokeless Owl?

 

[Btsmokincat]

Yeah I think I am going to get the Reo clone and a Chalice.. Not ready to drop $100 plus on authentic. At this point I'm tossing around the Idea of that INOY regulated box, getting a 2/3x18650 box mod (to be converted to BF), Or getting a regulated mod for my Kayfuns and Genis.

ANYBODY have an idea of where to get a replacement 510 socket for the Smokeless Owl?

You may be able to retro fit a fat daddy vapes v3, v4 or v5 wood body 510 bottom feeder connection. I used a FDV V3 BF on a couple of homemades. They work pretty good. Google "fat daddy vapes", he only sells parts and he's reliable.