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5 volt mods run a bit hotter, from what I can tell, and the flavor of the juice changes substantially. What you might not have liked at 3.7 may taste great at 5, and vice versa.
That said, I've got very limited experience here, as I'm still playing with my lavatube-type mod and trying to find my sweet spot for different juices (I've nailed one down to a 4.4-4.6 volt juice so far), so others who've got a lot more experience than I do may have more detailed info for you.
That said, I've got very limited experience here, as I'm still playing with my lavatube-type mod and trying to find my sweet spot for different juices (I've nailed one down to a 4.4-4.6 volt juice so far), so others who've got a lot more experience than I do may have more detailed info for you.
hi Jrasmussen, The difference will be how hot the atty/carto gets and how fast it comes up to that temperature. Lets say we are at 3.7 with a 2ohm carto, the basic math says we are going to be producing right at 6.8 watts of output. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp And now with 5 volts to that same 20hm carto we will be producing 12.5 watts of output.More wattage=hotter coil ,faster. This is the most basic way that i know of to explain the previous statement... you will be able to heat/vaporize almost double the liquid volume in the same amount of time if you can feed it to the atty/carto quick enough. The calculator will spell it out at any given load and voltage. By the way 2ohm 5v vaping is the easiest way to run through a whole bunch of liquid quickly.LOL. Good Luck Happy Vaping.
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You will have a wider selection of vaping temperatures available with 3.7V than 5.0 volts. Popular 3.7V cartos range from 1.7 ohm through 3.0 ohm single coil (lower or higher possible) and LR dual coils as low as 1.5 ohm.
I find 2.0 ohm single coil my favorite at 3.7V. That leave me a lot of room to adjust warmer or cooler as I wish.
I find 2.0 ohm single coil my favorite at 3.7V. That leave me a lot of room to adjust warmer or cooler as I wish.
Scotty we need more power.......
Captain the dilithium crystals cant handle the Vape.......
Damn it Jim I'm a doctor not a dripper.....
Live long and VAPE....
Captain the dilithium crystals cant handle the Vape.......
Damn it Jim I'm a doctor not a dripper.....
Live long and VAPE....
If you have a fairly large battery - say, 650mAh or (IMO minimum) 450mAh at 3.7 volts, you should have considerable room to play using different resistance atomizers or cartomizers. You will *not* be able to duplicate the vapor, flavor, etc. in every instance that you could get with a 5 volt PV (or a variable volt), but you might find it interesting to see exactly what you can do with your current setup, how it works, and why. OTOH if you're using a cig-sized PV you've probably seen most of what it can show you, voltage/resistance-wise.
If you're planning an upgrade, read all you can about the models you're considering (and anything else you can get your hands on), ask all the questions that cross your mind, and when you make your leap don't expect it to be your last one. There will always (presumably) be new branches beckoning. If not, by then maybe you can invent one!
Happy Vaping!
If you're planning an upgrade, read all you can about the models you're considering (and anything else you can get your hands on), ask all the questions that cross your mind, and when you make your leap don't expect it to be your last one. There will always (presumably) be new branches beckoning. If not, by then maybe you can invent one!
Happy Vaping!
I am sitting on my couch with a Ego and LR Atty. I have spent most of the day gaping a variable voltage with a 3 ohm carto between 5 and 6 volts.
I started this before picking up my phone and seeing this thread. Oddly with exactly the same question was going through my head. I was also questioning myself about buying a Provari or 2 next week.
I have been experimenting between the variable flavour and Ego. Going to have to take the ohm rating of this Atty as juice that was fine at 6 volts is tasting burnt at 3.2.
Not answering your question. OK initial difference is that at higher voltages you may want to reduce your nic as I definitely get that nic overdose feeling. Maybe because you are burning juice at a far faster rate.
Flavours change subtlety as you move through the voltages. Sometimes pleasantly and with some juices not so. At higher voltages juices tend to become more intense. This is possibly a result of atomizing more juice than you would at a lower voltage.
The suggestion of fully exploring your current set up has merit. That is dependant on your curiosity and budget.
My Provari thoughts are more about convenience as I have an Altoids box and while it is fantastic it is a little unwieldy.
Not sure if that helps.
I started this before picking up my phone and seeing this thread. Oddly with exactly the same question was going through my head. I was also questioning myself about buying a Provari or 2 next week.
I have been experimenting between the variable flavour and Ego. Going to have to take the ohm rating of this Atty as juice that was fine at 6 volts is tasting burnt at 3.2.
Not answering your question. OK initial difference is that at higher voltages you may want to reduce your nic as I definitely get that nic overdose feeling. Maybe because you are burning juice at a far faster rate.
Flavours change subtlety as you move through the voltages. Sometimes pleasantly and with some juices not so. At higher voltages juices tend to become more intense. This is possibly a result of atomizing more juice than you would at a lower voltage.
The suggestion of fully exploring your current set up has merit. That is dependant on your curiosity and budget.
My Provari thoughts are more about convenience as I have an Altoids box and while it is fantastic it is a little unwieldy.
Not sure if that helps.
Although others sometimes describe it as a hotter vape, I would describe it as a stronger vape. I've been mostly vaping at 5V for the past few months and when I vape at 3.7V now it seems weak. In terms of analogs (because we can all understand that, can't we?) I would compare it to smoking a Kool vs. smoking a Carlton....
@Andy, I expect the reason the liquid you enjoyed at 6 volts/3 Ohms tastes burnt at 3.2 volts/LR (?) Ohms is because the actual wattage (power) cooking that juice is greater with that particular combination. If you know the actual resistance of the atty you're using on the eGo you can determine this rather easily using the little calculator iusedtoanalog posted above: http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp. BTW the main reason I suggest (particularly) to new vapers that they play around & explore the capabilities of their existing PV before becoming too anxious to upgrade is simply for the educational value of it. I had some electronics background before I got here but most people have little, if any. I remember a time I didn't know current from voltage from resistance from wattage, or what any of it had to do with each other, so I clearly understand how incredibly complicated some of this stuff seems to those new to it. But here's the thing: *It's Not Complicated.* The basics of DC electronics are about as complicated as a garden hose full of water with a water source on one end and a trigger-type nozzle on the other.
The more one plays with the simple stuff the more sense it begins to make, and of course natural curiosity is liable to take over & push that person toward a better understanding & grander application of what (s)he has learned. ("The Tao of Vaping"? I didn't say that did I? Tell me to hush.)
I know, we're all different about such things, each for our own reasons. Personally though I love to learn all I can about whatever I'm doing. I expect there are many reasons for this but perhaps chief among them has always been my lack of material wealth. For this reason, if for no other, willful ignorance of matters upon which I depend has always been an economically unsustainable luxury for me. I simply can't afford *not* to know everything I can learn... and I doubt life would be nearly as much fun if I could.
Happy Vaping!
The more one plays with the simple stuff the more sense it begins to make, and of course natural curiosity is liable to take over & push that person toward a better understanding & grander application of what (s)he has learned. ("The Tao of Vaping"? I didn't say that did I? Tell me to hush.)
I know, we're all different about such things, each for our own reasons. Personally though I love to learn all I can about whatever I'm doing. I expect there are many reasons for this but perhaps chief among them has always been my lack of material wealth. For this reason, if for no other, willful ignorance of matters upon which I depend has always been an economically unsustainable luxury for me. I simply can't afford *not* to know everything I can learn... and I doubt life would be nearly as much fun if I could.
Happy Vaping!
Hi. I'd just like to make a point here, first. While many people assume that going higher voltage means still using the same resistance that one did at the lower voltage, not everyone does that. I personally like to be able to get the more widely available 'standard resistance' atties and be able to get a warmer vape out of them at 5v.
As it is these days, lower resistance cartos are quite commonly available, so at this point the potential wattage one can achieve with HV devices is getting out-of-hand, IMO. I'm pretty sure I read someone saying something about using a 1.25 ohm carto on a homemade 7v device, somewhere. Besides feeling sorry for the DIY battery unit's pain, I couldn't get the image of this guy vaping a 40 watt lightbulb modded into a clearomizer out of my head...
Anyway, my experience goes up to 12.5 watts (2 ohm @ 5v). Personally, I thought at made my VG liquid take on an acrid property that I didn't like, as if every hit were a partial dry hit. I ended up taking shorter hits, and it was ok. I can't vape PG liquids, so I can't say how they fare at hotter temps, but I can say that VG will definitely point out any potential wicking flaws that you may have, at higher wattage.
I like 1.7 to 2.8 ohms at 3.7v, and I pretty much stick with 3 ohms at 5v, which is about the same as 1.7 @ 3.7v. Most of the time, I find myself using 2.4 ohms at 3.7v, though. I'm not really into having much throat hit, though.
My main draw to the 5v device is the fact that I can get a warmer vape without sacrificing battery life:
3 ohms @ 5v = 8.33 watts, running 1.67 amps of current from the battery.
1.69 ohms @ 3.75v = 8.32 watts, running 2.22 amps of current from the battery.
Same vape at only 75% of the current drain, and I like my vapes from 5.5 to 8.5 watts, I guess, so it's a win.
For my money, I'd probably go with a variable voltage. You can buy any carto, and make it work nicely by dialing it in...
As it is these days, lower resistance cartos are quite commonly available, so at this point the potential wattage one can achieve with HV devices is getting out-of-hand, IMO. I'm pretty sure I read someone saying something about using a 1.25 ohm carto on a homemade 7v device, somewhere. Besides feeling sorry for the DIY battery unit's pain, I couldn't get the image of this guy vaping a 40 watt lightbulb modded into a clearomizer out of my head...
Anyway, my experience goes up to 12.5 watts (2 ohm @ 5v). Personally, I thought at made my VG liquid take on an acrid property that I didn't like, as if every hit were a partial dry hit. I ended up taking shorter hits, and it was ok. I can't vape PG liquids, so I can't say how they fare at hotter temps, but I can say that VG will definitely point out any potential wicking flaws that you may have, at higher wattage.
I like 1.7 to 2.8 ohms at 3.7v, and I pretty much stick with 3 ohms at 5v, which is about the same as 1.7 @ 3.7v. Most of the time, I find myself using 2.4 ohms at 3.7v, though. I'm not really into having much throat hit, though.
My main draw to the 5v device is the fact that I can get a warmer vape without sacrificing battery life:
3 ohms @ 5v = 8.33 watts, running 1.67 amps of current from the battery.
1.69 ohms @ 3.75v = 8.32 watts, running 2.22 amps of current from the battery.
Same vape at only 75% of the current drain, and I like my vapes from 5.5 to 8.5 watts, I guess, so it's a win.
For my money, I'd probably go with a variable voltage. You can buy any carto, and make it work nicely by dialing it in...
Yeah, but it can also taste like the difference between smoking a Kool vs. smoking a sheet of tightly rolled newspaper.
Thanks for all the Infos, i did not go higher on my LT that 4,2. It started to taste burned. But i have 3 Liquids, that dont taste very much. Will give them a go
I suspect with the advent of The Kick that Wattage is going to become a far more familiar term here. Actually it is far more applicable across all Mods and delivery systems (atty's and carto's) than volt's out of context of the delivery system.
Any bet's on the next revision of the ProVari or Darwin more likely having this facility ?
Back to VV though I am still new to it, well vaping still I think, and find that I am playing with the voltage depending on the day. Most of the time I am between 4.2 and 4.4 volts but want a little nic hit so pump it up to 5 or 5.5. Bit like that extra strong drag on a cig when you need it. Can't think of a way of replicating that on a 3.2 or 3.7 device without changing atty or carto apart from having stronger juice to hand. Ok in the perspective of world issues and opportunities it is hardly the most pressing of issues however convenience is an attribute.
Any bet's on the next revision of the ProVari or Darwin more likely having this facility ?
Back to VV though I am still new to it, well vaping still I think, and find that I am playing with the voltage depending on the day. Most of the time I am between 4.2 and 4.4 volts but want a little nic hit so pump it up to 5 or 5.5. Bit like that extra strong drag on a cig when you need it. Can't think of a way of replicating that on a 3.2 or 3.7 device without changing atty or carto apart from having stronger juice to hand. Ok in the perspective of world issues and opportunities it is hardly the most pressing of issues however convenience is an attribute.
Andy Thatcher = Darwin already has this facility as you call it and was the first to have it as well, before the kick ever came out, purely awesome Electronics in the Darwin the best. !
and was the first to have it as well, before the kick ever came out, purely awesome Electronics in the Darwin the best. !
Just spent some time youtubing on it and yep great device however think that a tube based mod meets my needs better at the moment from a day to day PV.
Flavors also play a big part in the volts/wattage at which you vape. Light fruit flavors do better somewhere around 3.7. Tobacco flavors seem to be able to handle higher voltage than other flavors.
For the OP, the 5v GLV is not a true 5v mod.
This will give you an idea of how they work:
GLV2 atomizer testing under load - YouTube
Here are the results of the test:
CISCO 1.5 306 1.22 OHM - 3.90V = 12.4 WATTS
CISCO 1.5 510 1.52 OHM - 4.24V = 11.8 WATTS
CISCO 2.0 510 1.96 OHM - 4.74V = 11.4 WATTS
BOGE/LX CARTO 2.87 OHM - 5.47V = 10.4 WATTS
SLB LR 901 1.87 OHM - 4.67V = 11.6 WATTS
??? LR 801 1.45 OHM - 4.17V = 11.99 WATTS
V4L COOLCART 3.31 OHM - 5.67V = 9.71 WATTS
V4L CARTO 2.29 OHM - 5.0V = 10.9 WATTS
MEGA CARTO 2.71 OHM - 5.27V = 10.25 WATTS
So the GLV ran anywhere from 3.9v to 5.6v depending on the resistance of what you put on it.
However, here is the irony of it all; I have the VV mods, even have a Kick in my SB, but I'll be damned ... they're all set up to vape just like my 3.7v mods. (between 7.5 & 8 watts) You are entitled to find your own sweet spot tho, I've got mine.
This will give you an idea of how they work:
GLV2 atomizer testing under load - YouTube
Here are the results of the test:
CISCO 1.5 306 1.22 OHM - 3.90V = 12.4 WATTS
CISCO 1.5 510 1.52 OHM - 4.24V = 11.8 WATTS
CISCO 2.0 510 1.96 OHM - 4.74V = 11.4 WATTS
BOGE/LX CARTO 2.87 OHM - 5.47V = 10.4 WATTS
SLB LR 901 1.87 OHM - 4.67V = 11.6 WATTS
??? LR 801 1.45 OHM - 4.17V = 11.99 WATTS
V4L COOLCART 3.31 OHM - 5.67V = 9.71 WATTS
V4L CARTO 2.29 OHM - 5.0V = 10.9 WATTS
MEGA CARTO 2.71 OHM - 5.27V = 10.25 WATTS
So the GLV ran anywhere from 3.9v to 5.6v depending on the resistance of what you put on it.
However, here is the irony of it all; I have the VV mods, even have a Kick in my SB, but I'll be damned ... they're all set up to vape just like my 3.7v mods. (between 7.5 & 8 watts) You are entitled to find your own sweet spot tho, I've got mine.
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I had been using standard resistance (2.3 ohm) Joye 510 atomizers on my 3.7v Chuck for years...
Then one day I finally decided to pick up some of those MadVapes "5 volt" NiMH batteries and threw them in my Chuck.
Now, perhaps unfortunately, there is no going back to 3.7 volts for me.
I used to have to take big, long 6 second drags when using the 3.7 volt batteries.
But now I can take much shorter drags, and they come with a bonus of improved flavor from most of my juices.
As others have said, though the fruit type juices don't always appreciate the extra power.
Then one day I finally decided to pick up some of those MadVapes "5 volt" NiMH batteries and threw them in my Chuck.
Now, perhaps unfortunately, there is no going back to 3.7 volts for me.
I used to have to take big, long 6 second drags when using the 3.7 volt batteries.
But now I can take much shorter drags, and they come with a bonus of improved flavor from most of my juices.
As others have said, though the fruit type juices don't always appreciate the extra power.
All really great information everyone, It's all about the watts.
I have heard it put this way, if you were a 2-3 pack-a-day smoker then you probably will not get satisfaction from 3.7. If you were a half a pack-a-day smoker 3.7 should be more than enough.
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I have heard it put this way, if you were a 2-3 pack-a-day smoker then you probably will not get satisfaction from 3.7. If you were a half a pack-a-day smoker 3.7 should be more than enough.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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