3 volt batteries for HV vaping using Dual Coils on SSGGTS/UFS

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Papa Hoyt

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I have steered clear of these for this reason. I keep getting different stories on how to charge them.

One will tell me that they are Li0ION with a reduction circuit built-in so i can put them in a trustfire tr001 designed for 3.7V

One will tell me that they are 3V and I need to use a 3V lifepo4 charger or they will explode.

Hopefully someone can come by here and straighten this out.

My concern for my safety exceeds that for my need to get 6V so I just opted for the lifepo4 that are clear as to how to charge them.
 

Torqueguy

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The best run time I've found for HV are the AW 18350's. I put a set in Saturday night and just swapped them out this morning. Used them all day yesterday and I was bbqing and drinking Bushmills, two normal battery killers for sure. If you're trying to tone down the 7.4V I find the Puresmoker 3 ohm single coils turn down the heat a bit and last forever. I've never had one burn up on me yet.
 

Stinky Uncle Ed

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Aren't protected Li-Ions only supposed to discharge in the neighborhood of 1C? With a dual coil atty at 6 volts, I'm sure you would be demanding at least 3 amps or more from that (1000mAh) battery so that would be a 3C demand on it. The protection circuit might shut it down, or something worse could happen, or maybe nothing at all...

I would stick to safe chemistry IMRs which I recal are able to discharge 8C or so, so they can handle the high current draw of a dual coil. But the IMRS are 3.7 so that does you no good.

I think most LIFEpo4 batteries can discharge around 10C (with some exceptions) so that seems the best option for 6.0 volts.
 

Repent

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I have a 2 sets of Tenergy LIFEpo4 RCR123a 3.0v batteries that I've just started using in my SSGGTS/UFS combo using a COV DC carto at @1.5 oHms. I had bought these batteries several months ago with the idea that if I ever wanted to try 6v vaping I'd have them. Well, I tried 6v vaping this weekend and am loving it on this combination but have quickly found that they are only lasting a few hours for me so I'm looking for a longer runtime. These batteries are new and on the package (came as a kit with batts/charger) it states that it takes several run cycles for them to get up to full potential.

Case in point. I put freshly charged batts as described above into my rig late last night and vaped some while reading before bedtime. Vaped this morning about 20 hits. Both batts now need charging. :(
 

Repent

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The best run time I've found for HV are the AW 18350's. I put a set in Saturday night and just swapped them out this morning. Used them all day yesterday and I was bbqing and drinking Bushmills, two normal battery killers for sure. If you're trying to tone down the 7.4V I find the Puresmoker 3 ohm single coils turn down the heat a bit and last forever. I've never had one burn up on me yet.

I have about 6 18350's on hand that I use for low profile vaping and had thought about doing this as well. Just thinking 7.4v may be a little too much. Maybe not, will have to give it a try to see what I think about that on a Dual coil carto.
 

Papa Hoyt

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Aren't protected Li-Ions only supposed to discharge in the neighborhood of 1C? With a dual coil atty at 6 volts, I'm sure you would be demanding at least 3 amps or more from that (1000mAh) battery so that would be a 3C demand on it. The protection circuit might shut it down, or something worse could happen, or maybe nothing at all...

I would stick to safe chemistry IMRs which I recal are able to discharge 8C or so, so they can handle the high current draw of a dual coil. But the IMRS are 3.7 so that does you no good.

I think most LIFEpo4 batteries can discharge around 10C (with some exceptions) so that seems the best option for 6.0 volts.

That depends on the cell and the PCB. AW 18650 can discharge a 5.4A and that is a 2C rating.

Also with higher Voltages the Amp requirement goes down. A LR 1.5Ω will draw about 2.5 ish amps where as 6V on a 3.5Ω coil will only be about 1.3-1.5ish if I remember correctly.
 

Papa Hoyt

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Are those 3.0/3.2v batts? Will have to take a look at them. Would rather have AW IMR high drains as it seems that is the consensus as to the better battery.

Yes thay are li-Ion regulated down to 3V. and they are the next batteries ion the list at AvidVaper.
AV 17335 123A 3.0v Li-Ion Battery - Avid Vaper

Also I spent some time researching these type batteries on flashlight forums.
They need to be charged on a LI-ION charger as they are Li_Ion batteries with diodes in them to reduce the voltage down to 3.0V.

Seeing diodes are one directional with current flow they carrya a second diode right near the first to allow charging the battery. One allows for charging with littel reduction in the voltage coming in to them and the second diode allows current to flow out of the battery at a reduced voltage of 3V.

Hope this helps.
 

MrKrinkle

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Are those 3.0/3.2v batts? Will have to take a look at them. Would rather have AW IMR high drains as it seems that is the consensus as to the better battery.

I am and will always only use AW IMR Safe Chemistry batts as Im sure some of you have read my other posts stating this very thing... I have stacked my 16340 AW IMR but fresh off the charger are pusing 4.2v each giving me 8.4v stacked this is a lil much for me as I only use them to burn my coil clean... I feel that patience is the key for this situation because soon we will have VV and it will solve all our needs for more power... so until VV is available I will be content with 3.7v and from what I understand the wait will be over soon and we can all rejoice for the GGVV will be a magical thing...
 

Repent

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I am and will always only use AW IMR Safe Chemistry batts as Im sure some of you have read my other posts stating this very thing... I have stacked my 16340 AW IMR but fresh off the charger are pusing 4.2v each giving me 8.4v stacked this is a lil much for me as I only use them to burn my coil clean... I feel that patience is the key for this situation because soon we will have VV and it will solve all our needs for more power... so until VV is available I will be content with 3.7v and from what I understand the wait will be over soon and we can all rejoice for the GGVV will be a magical thing...

Very true about the VV. I'll be on that bandwagon from the start. I love my Provari for this very reason. That and short protection, battery charge checker, and atty oHm checker.
 

Repent

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Repent, do you have an extension sleeve for GGTS? If so, check out those batteries.

I have the regular pieces that come with the SSGGTS, plus I did buy a brass telescope piece.

You're right about the light saber effect going on. Seems like that would be a bit too long for my liking though.

Can you post a pic with a ruler for scale?
 
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Stinky Uncle Ed

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That depends on the cell and the PCB. AW 18650 can discharge a 5.4A and that is a 2C rating.

Also with higher Voltages the Amp requirement goes down. A LR 1.5Ω will draw about 2.5 ish amps where as 6V on a 3.5Ω coil will only be about 1.3-1.5ish if I remember correctly.

Didn't know the AW li-ions were capable of 2C, thats cool.

OP mentioned running a dual coil carto at 1.5 ohm though. At 6 volts, that would be drawing 4 amps, and at 7.4 volts it would be drawing 4.93 amps. This kind of current draw is still too much for any Li-Ion **350 size battery. The only chemistry that can meet that current draw is the IMR or LIFEpo4 within those battery size requirements, unless he steps up to an **650 size Li-Ion, then it can stay at or below the 2C mark.

In terms of watt hours, a 500maH 3.7volt IMR has 1.85 watt hours, vs a 500mah 3.0volts LIFEpo4, which has 1.50 watt hours, so keep in mind that with a variable volt mod (with PWM) you will get about 23% longer runtime using the IMRs vs LIFEpo4 at 6.0 volts to the atty.
 

Papa Hoyt

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Didn't know the AW li-ions were capable of 2C, thats cool.

OP mentioned running a dual coil carto at 1.5 ohm though. At 6 volts, that would be drawing 4 amps, and at 7.4 volts it would be drawing 4.93 amps. This kind of current draw is still too much for any Li-Ion **350 size battery. The only chemistry that can meet that current draw is the IMR or LIFEpo4 within those battery size requirements, unless he steps up to an **650 size Li-Ion, then it can stay at or below the 2C mark.

In terms of watt hours, a 500maH 3.7volt IMR has 1.85 watt hours, vs a 500mah 3.0volts LIFEpo4, which has 1.50 watt hours, so keep in mind that with a variable volt mod (with PWM) you will get about 23% longer runtime using the IMRs vs LIFEpo4 at 6.0 volts to the atty.


Yeah for that low of an Ω rating you would definately need an IMR.

I know most people say that lifepo4 are good for life 10C discharge rates but that is for cells or packs designed to do so.

The spec sheets on my tenergys say something like 550ma discharge or something small like that and I exceed that all the time. but at a 4A current through that kinda load you would need something that would be able to handle that.

Just remember back in the day we all started using 10440s or smaller on a 2.5-3.2Ω load which was really hard on our batteries even before the LRs even came out. This is like 25% of the reason we use bigger battery 'mods' today. Mosat everyone else wanted all day lifespan what most did not realize is that the longevity of the battery got better to as anything RCR123 and up was better equiped to handle the current draw we needed.
 

Dream

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Can you post a pic with a ruler for scale?

sorry for the krappy photo.. but it's almost 9"
IMG_0568-web.1317114068.jpg
 

Dream

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I'm using two 3.2v LIFEpo4 in my SSGGTS and dripping in a 2.5ohm HH.357 and it's one of my favorite vapes.

i'm using 3ohm HH.357 at 6v, but now i have to try 2.5ohm at 6.4.
i wonder if i could use the 3ohm HH at 7.4v? too much?
i'd hate to blow a $22 atty in an experiment. ;)
 
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