Back when I was using 30g I would torch it first. Help get rid of some of the springingness
30 AWG, Sacre Bleu!
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I thought it was 32 or 34 for Protank/Evod heads...?
30 is all I use, A1 or SS316. I do single wire at 1-1.5 Ohms spaced, depending on what the topper is. 12-15 Watts or TC and it's fine...good flavor and decent enough cloud. Twist your cotton tight as you pull it through, then untwist once it's in. "Ramp up" is practically non-existent and battery life is great.
30 is all I use, A1 or SS316. I do single wire at 1-1.5 Ohms spaced, depending on what the topper is. 12-15 Watts or TC and it's fine...good flavor and decent enough cloud. Twist your cotton tight as you pull it through, then untwist once it's in. "Ramp up" is practically non-existent and battery life is great.
For Protank coils I used a heavy needle under the wick and wrapped 30ga kanthal around it. Once wound I pulled the needle out and twisted the coil a little to tighten it before installing. It's a struggle at first, but you get better with repetition.
Once I discovered Kayfun I never looked back. I still have some old Pro-tank coils in a box in the closet for nostalgic memories.
Once I discovered Kayfun I never looked back. I still have some old Pro-tank coils in a box in the closet for nostalgic memories.
30 gauge wire is a bit fragile compared to the thicker stuff, but I still find it fairly easy to work with using KGD or Muji cotton. Here is a pic of an early build I did on my Aqua V2 using SS which is what I still use in this:
I was experimenting with different amounts of cotton above the juice channels which is why the front wick tails are so much bigger than the rear wicks. I finally settled on about half way between them.
I would not want to try this with Rayon because I find I need to pack Rayon tighter into the coils than cotton and that would make it harder to keep the coils from deforming too much. I pack cotton a bit tighter than most people do I think so it's fairly snug in there. I twist the cotton to get it into the coils and then untwist and fluff to get it to open up again. I can dry burn and rewick this setup pretty much as many times as I can thicker wire.
It vapes great at 12-17 watts and has loads of flavor with almost no heat up time. I've found other atties I prefer since then for one reason or another, but I always have one of these set up and ready to go.
I was experimenting with different amounts of cotton above the juice channels which is why the front wick tails are so much bigger than the rear wicks. I finally settled on about half way between them.
I would not want to try this with Rayon because I find I need to pack Rayon tighter into the coils than cotton and that would make it harder to keep the coils from deforming too much. I pack cotton a bit tighter than most people do I think so it's fairly snug in there. I twist the cotton to get it into the coils and then untwist and fluff to get it to open up again. I can dry burn and rewick this setup pretty much as many times as I can thicker wire.
It vapes great at 12-17 watts and has loads of flavor with almost no heat up time. I've found other atties I prefer since then for one reason or another, but I always have one of these set up and ready to go.
For Protank coils I used a heavy needle under the wick and wrapped 30ga kanthal around it. Once wound I pulled the needle out and twisted the coil a little to tighten it before installing. It's a struggle at first, but you get better with repetition.
Once I discovered Kayfun I never looked back. I still have some old Pro-Tank coils in a box in the closet for nostalgic memories.
I remember that trick!
Nostalgic memories or vapocolypse.
The memories I recently had with eGo-C makes me think I might quit before the vapocolypse gets that bad.
Depends on what size coil you want to end up with and if contact or spaced.
Spaced is gonna be tougher because you'll push the wraps together when inserting the cotton.
For larger builds, parallel helps alot. Also putting some strain on the wire while wrapping.
Spaced is gonna be tougher because you'll push the wraps together when inserting the cotton.
For larger builds, parallel helps alot. Also putting some strain on the wire while wrapping.
I never had any problem wicking a Protank head. I started out dry burning and rewicking the original coils, they're #34 or smaller with about 1/16" ID. After that I'd pull out the wick on a new one and replace it with cotton, too much better. It's just a small coil and really hard to thread it through initially. Spend nine-tenths of the time shaping the cotton perfectly and whoosh right in. Shouldn't come close to tight enough to deform anything. For rebuilding them, I recommend the pre-welded NR-R-NR wire coil assemblies only.
To make the same size coil with thinner wire requires more wraps, or a parallel technique. Either will get faster response (properly adjusted). The other reason for using smaller wire is to make smaller coils and still have as a high or higher resistance (closer to constant voltage) or to get less power flow at the same voltage.
The tricky part of small coils especially is getting them mounted. Wicking on tanks is an art or something but deforming the coil with it isn't the issue.
To make the same size coil with thinner wire requires more wraps, or a parallel technique. Either will get faster response (properly adjusted). The other reason for using smaller wire is to make smaller coils and still have as a high or higher resistance (closer to constant voltage) or to get less power flow at the same voltage.
The tricky part of small coils especially is getting them mounted. Wicking on tanks is an art or something but deforming the coil with it isn't the issue.
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I never re-wicked the original coils. I went straight to 30 gauge 1/16" ID contact coils wicked with cotton. That was a pretty respectable vape for a while, until they inevitably started tasting like burnt rubber, a problem that could probably be avoided by using pre-welded NR-R-NR wire.
I rarely had a hot leg problem and that was on Vivi Nova.
I never cared what the originals were. I built to what I liked. I tried a bunch of wire cards and decided 30ga was what I liked best.
I use 30g and 32g a lot for the core wires with my fused Claptons, works rather well. When wicking you just need to insure you hold the coil stable with your thumb fingernail and just be a bit careful, that and insure you don't pack it too tight.
I tried twisting a wire today just for trial. As usual didn't go well in the first attempt. Didn't realize, but I kinked it in the middle!
Oh well, will try one tomorrow!
Oh well, will try one tomorrow!
I haven't tried it yet. I'll let you discover all the likely issues for me (for a beginner) first. Thanks!I tried twisting a wire today just for trial. As usual didn't go well in the first attempt. Didn't realize, but I kinked it in the middle!
Oh well, will try one tomorrow!
30ga is a problem ? i can still remember the grief of using 32 & 34 nich.all we had then .even before kanthal
Tension is essential. The tighter you want the twist, the more tension is needed.I tried twisting a wire today just for trial. As usual didn't go well in the first attempt. Didn't realize, but I kinked it in the middle!
Oh well, will try one tomorrow!
I don't find that to be much of a problem, but if it were, it would be easy enough to fix by giving the wire a quick pass over a torch after twisting it.
<insert inappropriate popular with the ladies joke>
You could make a jig for that with a small piece of plastic pipe and a clothespin. Cut off two segments from the pipe and glue it to the part of the clothespin where the arms pinch together, that would go right over your coil after wrapping and prevent any springing while handling it. Just some silly idea from the top of what I use as a brain
OK, my suggestion may not be applicable to every alloy out there. But it certainly does work on good old Kanthal A1.
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