Yeah Gum, vaping and packing at the same time, how cool is that.
I got an idea for venting holes, bullet holes.
I got an idea for venting holes, bullet holes.
.44 mini Booster Box Mod
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I have a switch that would allow me to have an on-board USB charger LiPo Charger Basic - Mini-USB - SparkFun Electronics where if it is plugged in, it would be charging, but when you pressed the fire button, it would switch to the atomizer circuit. When you released the button, it would switch back over to the charging circuit. It would not be a pass-through. Does that sound feasable? Would I have to make any changes to the components or could I use the .44 mini design?
.22s would make for good decoration, but with no primer to remove i think it would be kinda useless.... now im looking at a 30-06, trying to see how i can stuff a 10440 and an atty connector in, and still swap the battery 
very nice mod, and like the added touch of the .44 too
very nice mod, and like the added touch of the .44 too
I guess it's possible if your switch is a SPDT and the Switch Function is "On-Mom"
The common leg would be wire to the battery Positve, the Momentary to the regulator input Vin and the "On" switch leg would go to the charger.
Maybe not this particular switch, but something like it. It's a 3amp: Digi-Key - 360-2149-ND (Manufacturer - MB2411A2W40)
I haven't tried it, but I bet you could just leave the charger connected to the battery full time. The charger is just going to go to it's max current (~500mA) then return to normal when the atomizer is powered off. With the simple charger controller used on the SparkFun board (MCP73831), I don't see where that would cause a problem. Though I won't do it with the MCP73833 that I typically use, that one is an advanced controller. It would likely log an error and latch off with that.
If not using the SPDT switch, the only problem would be if you vaped while the battery was low. The charger amperage as Craig pointed out is low and it would not be able to support the amperage required for the atty.
I vaguely remember seeing a website for a vendors PV w/ a built in charger and a warning not to vape below a certain battery level. I think it may have had an LED indication for the low batt level....
I vaguely remember seeing a website for a vendors PV w/ a built in charger and a warning not to vape below a certain battery level. I think it may have had an LED indication for the low batt level....
Wouldn't a protected battery shut itself down in that case?
Would I have to do anything else different to the original mod circuitry?
Would I have to do anything else different to the original mod circuitry?
Maybe Craig could chime in here about the possibility of a Zener Diode. I noticed he had discussed this once before.
Edit:
In your previous post you mentioned using a switch. I suggested the two position switch. When not pushed a N/C contact would feed the batt w/ the charger and when pushed the momentary contact would feed the batt to the regulator while opening up the charger contact.
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Attempting to vape with a discharged battery and the charger active could be an issue. It probably won't damage the charger controller, but voltage could drop low enough for battery protection to kick in. Then the charger controller would be trying to drive the atomizer, which it wouldn't be able to do. Can't say for sure what kind of problems could arise since I've never experimented with it. Though, I don't think it would damage anything
A cut-out can be engineered easily with a voltage detector and a P-channel MOSFET. I actually use these in my single batt mods for that purpose. You need a cut-out with a booster mod anyway. It's pretty easy to over-discharge the batt and hit the protection. You want to avoid relying on a battery's protection circuitry and IMR batts are generally used unprotected as well.
Voltage detectors are very precise and you don't have to fiddle around with anything to get the detection levels right. The ones I linked to draw less than a µA. Current draw is negligible and they can be connected to the batt full time. I would recommend the NCP300HSN30T1G for use with a P-channel.
Of course, you could switch the charger and booster back and forth mechanically as discussed earlier in this this thread, but that still doesn't resolve the problem of over-discharging the battery. A detector and FET provides positive control. If it's engaged, no current can flow out of the battery (aside from the half µA powering the detector). It's a really simple circuit, just two parts, but it does require PCB surface mounting, like just about everything these days. I haven't looked, but a similar detector may be available in thru-hole.
Okay, an afterthrought, I haven't used the PTN04050c myself so I was looking at the data sheet and it indicates a 2.95V minimum on input voltatge. I don't know if it has an under voltage lockout or what happens when you fall below that 2.95V threshold. On the booster I use, I have to employ a cut-out because it has a lower limit of 1.8V, well below the critical threshold of a Li-Ion. The whole point may be moot if the PTN04050c shuts down at 2.95V. In that case, you'd know if your battery was low because vapor production would fall off. Still, I don't think it would totally negate the need for a proper cut-out.
Another thing I noticed when reading the PTN04050c data sheet is the lack of any short circuit protection. I use PTC fuses myself. Handy little buggers. I've been using the Littelfuse 1812L Series, but I recently found they have a Lo Rho Series with a much lower resistance, good for better efficiency. I'm planning to use those in my next mod, expensive though.
A cut-out can be engineered easily with a voltage detector and a P-channel MOSFET. I actually use these in my single batt mods for that purpose. You need a cut-out with a booster mod anyway. It's pretty easy to over-discharge the batt and hit the protection. You want to avoid relying on a battery's protection circuitry and IMR batts are generally used unprotected as well.
Voltage detectors are very precise and you don't have to fiddle around with anything to get the detection levels right. The ones I linked to draw less than a µA. Current draw is negligible and they can be connected to the batt full time. I would recommend the NCP300HSN30T1G for use with a P-channel.
Of course, you could switch the charger and booster back and forth mechanically as discussed earlier in this this thread, but that still doesn't resolve the problem of over-discharging the battery. A detector and FET provides positive control. If it's engaged, no current can flow out of the battery (aside from the half µA powering the detector). It's a really simple circuit, just two parts, but it does require PCB surface mounting, like just about everything these days. I haven't looked, but a similar detector may be available in thru-hole.
Okay, an afterthrought, I haven't used the PTN04050c myself so I was looking at the data sheet and it indicates a 2.95V minimum on input voltatge. I don't know if it has an under voltage lockout or what happens when you fall below that 2.95V threshold. On the booster I use, I have to employ a cut-out because it has a lower limit of 1.8V, well below the critical threshold of a Li-Ion. The whole point may be moot if the PTN04050c shuts down at 2.95V. In that case, you'd know if your battery was low because vapor production would fall off. Still, I don't think it would totally negate the need for a proper cut-out.
Another thing I noticed when reading the PTN04050c data sheet is the lack of any short circuit protection. I use PTC fuses myself. Handy little buggers. I've been using the Littelfuse 1812L Series, but I recently found they have a Lo Rho Series with a much lower resistance, good for better efficiency. I'm planning to use those in my next mod, expensive though.
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First off, I don't think they have a VV box mod kit at madvapes. I think they only sell a VV kit that you could install in a box mod. Secondly, his uses a boost chip, so you only need one battery instead of two in series.
Also the reason it's a .44 box mod is because of the .44 caliber round used for the switch.
If I were to have this mod in Singapore, I'll standby for 7 years in jail ... If I get caught lol!
Caning?! Geez!! Thats the best part about Singapore. They cane you once and let it heal and cane u again. Up to 24 strokes. One whip, your ... skin Sticks to the cane.
Ok, I only read through the first 3 pages, but tell me you named it "The Dirty Harry"
My idol... LOL
I have the same Revolver. .44 Smith & Wesson. Mine is a Model 629. Except his wasn't Stainless Steel
I have the same Revolver. .44 Smith & Wesson. Mine is a Model 629. Except his wasn't Stainless Steel
So is this mounted on a pcb? If so, do you have a drawing of how you would mount everything?
For those of you who do not know how to read a schematic see:
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