Combine Touch switch with Booster

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asnider123

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Breadboard:
for small projects a 760 point breadboard should be adequate.
EST532-1.jpg


Here's one from Chicomm for 3 bucks including shipping. Very handy, I have several

NEW Breadboard Bread Board 760 Points Solderless PCB | eBay

Of course, plan on waiting a few weeks for it, but it'll be worth it. You can also buy them from RS I believe but for much more $$ unless you get a deal.
 

asnider123

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Frys has a powered Protoboard setup for 3.90 it has a metal housing as well and is 3 breadboards I do believe...
PB-204 2250 Tie Point Powered proto-Board is the model...then you wouldn't have to wait weeks...


3048369.big.jpg

WOW! I really like that ... $3.90? I want one. Who's Frys, an online company?

UPDATE: It is on Fry's webpage, I think it's a discontinued model. Even has built-in 12 and 5v power supply. Really nice. Ebay has them for about 85 bucks with shipping. If someone has a local Frys store, run (dont walk) down there and buy them out tonite!

http://www.frys.com/product/3048369
 
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Dalton63841

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Wow that would be great! Unfortunately I am not allowed to spend another dime this month. (Other half has a budget with no give) Next month perhaps I will get one, since I won't have a a Provari coming out of the budget.

I got to sit down and do some math and figure out which resistor I need for this project. Following this I would need a 22k resistor for a range of 3.77v-5.18v, but I am not using the diode so I need to adjust the resistor size for that range.
 

asnider123

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Okay it looks like there is a problem with this circuit. It outputs a constant voltage, ~5v depending on what the POT is set to, and when you touch the touch switch the voltage drops ~0.15v.

I don't know, though it sounds like the touch-switch is responding or you would see no difference. I am not familiar with the booster part of the diagram, but it sounds like it may be there ???

Let me think about this while Breaktru tells you of his experience with the TI module. I am just thinking out loud .....

Doesn't sound like any components are malfunctioning, just a configuration problem of some type.

Is it breadboarded? If so, replace the entire touch fet circuit with a push-button to test which part is giving you grief. Then try the touch portion independently. You should be able to pinpoint it.
 
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Dalton63841

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Okay I eliminated the boost from the equation. I now have a circuit wired exactly like this and it is passing current without anything touching anything. It isn't even in the box right now.

EDIT: The IRL3103 works properly when it is in its own circuit, but not with the boost. The other FET is not working properly at all. Still troubleshooting.
 
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Dalton63841

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What resistor value did you use for G to S ?

30M, I have experimented both up and down from that. The IRL3103 worked perfectly by itself, but not in line with the booster. The IRLZ34N, which is essentially identical to the IRL3103, allows current to pass, even without the booster, as if the gate were stuck closed(open?)
 

AttyPops

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There's another thread about someone having trouble with that TI module. We're trying to get them to either A) try two batteries in parallel to simulate a high-drain battery or B) get a high drain battery. The thing cuts out using standard 14500's. Not sure why, and it was a PIF so the person having the trouble didn't build it. The PIFer (lol) said it worked OK. Doesn't seem to be a short anywhere.

Anyway, once you eliminate the power-FET and it still doesn't work, try high drain or parallel batteries????????? Just a thought. I know people often use 18650's with them, but that won't work in your AA box.

IDK where you ended up with the FET... kinda hard to follow this thread... before or after the booster. The booster has a pulsed output that is smoothed by the cap. The pulses could mess up the FET if it is between the cap and booster (it shouldn't be)????? I'm not sure what your resulting circuit looks like.......

You may wish to consider getting the booster to work 1st (eliminate the FET) and then, when working, add the FET... rather than the other way around. I just note it 'cuz someone else is having issues with that booster module.
 
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asnider123

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30M, I have experimented both up and down from that. The IRL3103 worked perfectly by itself, but not in line with the booster. The IRLZ34N, which is essentially identical to the IRL3103, allows current to pass, even without the booster, as if the gate were stuck closed(open?)

Boy, I'm gonna go to hongkong and have a word with that guy that sold me the 34n's :) Sounds like I sent you a klunker, sorry.
 

Dalton63841

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There's another thread about someone having trouble with that TI module. We're trying to get them to either A) try two batteries in parallel to simulate a high-drain battery or B) get a high drain battery. The thing cuts out using standard 14500's. Not sure why, and it was a PIF so the person having the trouble didn't build it. The PIFer (lol) said it worked OK. Doesn't seem to be a short.

Anyway, once you eliminate the power-FET and it still doesn't work, try high drain or parallel batteries????????? Just a thought. I know people often use 18650's with them, but that won't work in your AA box.

Actually the booster works beautifully with just a single 14500, especially with the cap's in place. For some reason the schematics at the beginning of this thread are unsuccessful though. It constantly puts out current, without even touching the touch switch.

For the IRLZ34N it looks like it is a dud. Oh well. I used the 3103 to make my girlfriend a box mod with touch switch. I will get another FET and try again. Some good news though, I know that I can fit it all. It fits the 2 100uF Caps, 7 resistors, 1 POT, IRL3103 FET, ptn04050C booster, 1 led, 1 atty connector, and 1 14500 battery, all inside a 2xAA box.
 
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breaktru

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30M, I have experimented both up and down from that. The IRL3103 worked perfectly by itself, but not in line with the booster. The IRLZ34N, which is essentially identical to the IRL3103, allows current to pass, even without the booster, as if the gate were stuck closed(open?)

I had the same problem with the PTR08100w. The mosfet was always on and when touched, got a small voltage.
Now take into consideration that I am old and my memory is shot (teen from the sixties)... This was a week ago mind you,
I had two problems to solve last week and I maybe confusing the two so here goes,
1) I couldn't turn the touch on with the 10m so I went right to the 100m. Never tried anything between the 2 sizes.
2) The PTN08100w would not work with the N-Channel. Breaking the negative feed was not successful. It was always powered on.
 
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AttyPops

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I looked at the datasheet... no activate/inhibit pin. It would have made life a lot easier. I would definitely put the FET before the module, if you didn't already. Per your post #31, the FET works. Per your post #34, the power module works. So you would think that together, with the FET powering the booster, it would work. lol. IDK. I do know you're in good hands with breaktru.

Glad to know it was AW IMR. I suspect that's at least part of the issue on the other thread.... not using high-drain in that case....so thanks for that.
 

breaktru

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That's it I bet .. you are getting feedback to the neg side thru your atty, causing your module to act weird ???

Not sure why Alan but it sounds good. Then again, I'm sure the experts will chime in here,,,
Anyway, I went with the P-Channel shown below:
index.php
 
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