5 vs. 3.7
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Ummmm.... well, the eGo is a 3.2 ish device (I've seen different #'s from 3.2 to 3.4... I think 3.2 is probably correct). However, an unregulated mod (no voltage regulator to "level the voltage") vapes at battery voltage. The batteries start out at 4.2 volts, drop quickly to the 3.7/3.6 volt range and stay around there most of the time until a bit before cut off at 2.8.
Anyway, using a "true 3.7" volt mod with a battery that can put out the amps, is different. For example, I find that a 1.5 ohm LR atty is too hot on them, but is not too hot on an eGo. 2.0 ohms for 3.7 mods.
5 volts is a completely different league. Hits full/quick/hot like a cig. No "slow draw" on that. 3.0 ohm atomizers. I vape at 5 volts as it keeps me from getting ticked at e-cigs for crappy performance and/or short lived LR atomizers.
The vape is different between 2.0 ohm 3.7 volt ( 6.85 watts) and 3.0 ohm 5 volt (8.333 watts), but acceptable either way.
Anyway, using a "true 3.7" volt mod with a battery that can put out the amps, is different. For example, I find that a 1.5 ohm LR atty is too hot on them, but is not too hot on an eGo. 2.0 ohms for 3.7 mods.
5 volts is a completely different league. Hits full/quick/hot like a cig. No "slow draw" on that. 3.0 ohm atomizers. I vape at 5 volts as it keeps me from getting ticked at e-cigs for crappy performance and/or short lived LR atomizers.
The vape is different between 2.0 ohm 3.7 volt ( 6.85 watts) and 3.0 ohm 5 volt (8.333 watts), but acceptable either way.
I've heard that the higher volts give you more vapor but dull the flavor a bit. I'm in a taste bud funk right now and have no idea how long it's gonna last. It's been about a week and a half already. Ugh. But does the flavor change drastically at 5 volts?
It really depends on the resistance of the atty or carto you are using and the nicquid. I have a few tobacco flavors that taste fantastic at higher voltages. More delicate fruit flavors, I've noticed, tend to taste better at lower voltages.
I realize that's kind of a non-answer, but everyone is different.
I realize that's kind of a non-answer, but everyone is different.
The short answer is No there will not be a huge difference between the ego and a 3.7 box mod .
However there will be a noticeable difference and the box mod will be by far superior , especially one of Kens.
Id get the 5 volt with some dual coil cartos or just standard 2.3 ohm cartos , a little hot but thats the way I like it.
Good luck.
However there will be a noticeable difference and the box mod will be by far superior , especially one of Kens.
Id get the 5 volt with some dual coil cartos or just standard 2.3 ohm cartos , a little hot but thats the way I like it.
Good luck.
You keep quoting this, and it's a good rule of thumb to remember, but each one will still perform slightly differently, taste different, and are not 100% equivalent. In order to vary the ohms, the length and/or diameter of the coil has to change which changes the surface area, thus changing the watts per square mm.
Since you added no comments, I'm not sure what point you are trying to make with that information, but note that they are not exactly the same. It is a good ball-park of performance tho.
And that's the point, "it's a good rule of thumb to remember". Those are "Cisco specs" BTW.
Everyone has their own sweet spot, mine falls between 7.7 and 8.3 watts depending on the device. Once a person understands how that works, it's easy to configure their equipment to a different voltage. The person that thinks 'sense this atty works so well at "X" voltage", I think I will try it at "Y" voltage' is in for one hell of a surprise. It just doesn't work that way.
If you think of your sweet spot in terms of watts instead of volts, you will find it a lot easier to find regardless of what the voltage is.
Fresh eGo bat with no load
With a 2 ohm load
When the bats charge drops below 3.30v, it shuts off needing recharging.
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Thx tj99959,
3.4 it is then. As far as the equations, I usually just teach them V2/R. Then they can compute watts for any combo.
3.4 it is then. As far as the equations, I usually just teach them V2/R. Then they can compute watts for any combo.
I don't think quite that simple. V^2/r applies if non-reactive circuit. Not always the case. Agree with "depends on your taste". However, I tend to think watts at very widely varied tastes can be had at 3.7 volts - just vary the resistance to proper tastes. Seems to me that resistance variance usually less costly than volt and/or amp variance. The VV eGo may be an exception.
It is a theoretical calculation with perfect conductors, as is the norm. However, the atty is treated as a simple resistor in a non-reactive circuit. So it's that simple for e-cigs.
I agree that it's easier/cheaper to vary the atty rather than the volts.
That's the same one I use when I cheat. lol.
I agree that it's easier/cheaper to vary the atty rather than the volts.
That's the same one I use when I cheat. lol.
The eGo Booster prompted my comment about the non-reactive circuit. That case, I think, presents a reactive circuit and it involves e-cigs. And, although well above my level of expertise, I would think the coil of the heating element involves some element of reactivity to it. Probably not enough to have any concern about - but I would think some. But, in eGo Booster situation, reactivity is significant.
I still haven't ordered my first mod yet...waiting til my next paycheck. What do you guys think of the ego booster though? It would be overall cheaper since I wouldn't have to buy batteries and a charger but does it hold up? I really wanna see what 5v is all about.
eGo Booster will not get you to 5 volts. A really cheap way to get close to 5 volts is a Riva. It will take you to 4.2 volts (unloaded) for awhlie (just off charger). Would still suggest resistance change at atty is cheapest way. 5 volts as compared to nominally rated eGo at 3.7 volts is 35% increase in volts. 35% increase in volts roughly produces 83% increase in watts or heat. Half the resistance at the atty produces (roughly) 100% increase in watts. Booster with shipping will come out close to 70$.
Again!
An eGo is regulated to 3.4v, not 3.7.
IMHO the eGo booster is a waste of money, and will only bring you up to the level of an unregulated 3.7v battery.
The Trustfire in my SB is 4.2v unloaded when fresh of the charger. So is any other fresh 3.7v battery. So in reality all the booster does is bring the eGo back up to it's unredulated voltage.
A battery simply can not pull additional voltage out of thin air.
What is true is that 1.5ohms @ 3.7v is more watts than 3ohms @ 5v. Simply put, that means that the least expencive way to change the power is to change the atty resistance instead of the battery voltage.
An eGo is regulated to 3.4v, not 3.7.
IMHO the eGo booster is a waste of money, and will only bring you up to the level of an unregulated 3.7v battery.
The Trustfire in my SB is 4.2v unloaded when fresh of the charger. So is any other fresh 3.7v battery. So in reality all the booster does is bring the eGo back up to it's unredulated voltage.
A battery simply can not pull additional voltage out of thin air.
What is true is that 1.5ohms @ 3.7v is more watts than 3ohms @ 5v. Simply put, that means that the least expencive way to change the power is to change the atty resistance instead of the battery voltage.
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