510 XL CE2 + SS400 wick = Awesome

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Teach

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Well I have seen variations of the Genesis mod with the CE2, so I decided to replace the wick completely and using a 1/2" X 3" long pice of SS400 I wrapped it long ways around a piece of wire. Once I had that tight I remove the wire and kept wrapping it as tight as I could get it. The final dia was approx .075". Now I just cut 2" of 36 ga Nichrome, J-hooked it, soldered it and it helped to desolder one of the wire to wrap. Before wrapping I heat treated the SS400 quenching it 3 times. The it was approx 6 wraps around and back through the hole in the cup, a quick solder of the neg leg and finished putting it into the tank.

Here are a couple pics. Very clean taste and vapes like a champ!

Dan

Dan, Another great idea! I just used one to replace the worn wick and kept the coil intact. I had to roll the mesh down to .055 but it works great – good flavor and vape. Sucks up VG without a problem… is it my imagination or is more nic coming through too?


Lovely again Dan. Using a tank gives some extra room, but having flexed this in your own hands, do you think that the roll would fit into the original clearo tubing without kinking? Something tells me it's been tried before, but you've got a different rolling method and it sounds smaller too. Maybe with some slits added to the cup area somehow?

Asdaq – tried it on a 3ml and it’s way too tight IMO. Might work, but it would take some pressure to get it seated. A 5ml BD tube works great with a stormi style mod. I think my next ones will be for the MAPs though.
 

Scubabatdan

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Great pics and vid Dan. Now I understand what these are all about. I guess I will order a couple of these.

BTW, a little saliva goes a long way when trying to slide rubber onto things..... just sayin' :)

Considering edit. That just didn't sound right. lol


LOL nope it didnt! hehe
Glad you understand the process and hope it works out for you!

Quick question - do you wrap all the nichrome around the ss mesh? That seems like a lot of loops.
What does that do for the resistance?

Also - I tend to rinse and dryburn my CE2 every re-fill, is this overkill?
Every 3 or 4 rinses I will burn the whole wick, is this why my wicks start falling
apart after only a few weeks?

Well since the wraps are small there are more of them, at 2" of 36ga I am getting right at 2.7ohms
I think the constant washing of the wick might be part of the culprit in the break down process. But even after 30 days of vaping with out dry burning the wick is pretty much burnt into. I think it has to do with the build up of depesits breaking down the wicking material and when you remove the coil the wick is so brittle that it breaks apart. Soooo in summary I believe it is not overkill, but I am getting 30 days out of the standard wick with out rinsing and dry burning. So if you are getting less then I would try one without rinsing and dry burning and see how long it lasts.

It will be interesting to see how long the SS last and if it is affected by the prolonged heat. I have gone through almost 10ml of juice on my first build and I cant wait to see what the coil and SS looks like.
Well hope this helps.
Dan
 

utak3r

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Thanks, Dan. I was afraid the sswick won't lay nicely and thus won't wick very well. So, now I don't have any excuses anymore ;) Thanks once again.

That seems like a lot of loops. What does that do for the resistance?
Nothing ;) The number of loops has nothing to do to the resistance - it would matter only if you were measuring the inductance of the wire.
 

Scubabatdan

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Well 10ml of juice down and here is what the coil and wick look like.
Dan
 

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Mudflap

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Make one! LOL it is very easy to do, alot of space to work. I like the side slit cup, makes it very easy to seat the coil into.
Dan

I'd have to buy solder and an iron and mesh and wire and...

Then I would ruin a bunch of solder and mesh and wire and CE2's...

:D

Subscribing to this thread and hope you post about its longevity as you continue to use it. Great work!
 

Scubabatdan

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Any ideas on whether you'll be able to clean this? With the solder right by the coil, would you be able to do a dry burn
or burn with torch?

Well when I removed the original coil, the solder points were is the exact same spot as my rebuild, so I dont see why not. As with any dry burn you run the risk of burning the coil out. I personnaly do not dry burn. If production sucks I replace the coil.

Excellent ingenuity Dan.
Ya done good my friend...ya done good.:thumb:

Why thank you!
Dan
 

Chingas

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It's probably the vodka talking but I am actually going to try this. Just sent some bucks to the mesh company for the right stuff. Also searched for some nichrome wire. After visiting MadVapes and sensing the danger to my $ I went with Jacobs Online. Got 30 feet of 36 ga Nichrome for $4 w/free shipping.

Incase it is of interest to anyone...Nichrome wire w/free s/h
 

Chingas

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Couple n00b questions I shall asketh whilst drunketh.

1)any special t00l to use to make the j-h00ks?

2) quenching?? does that mean blast the asembled mesh/nichrome with cleansing fire and dunking in water 3 times?

3) you quick solder the pos leg when reassembling as well?

Thanks Dan. This is a c00l idea. I hate the flimsy wicks but love the ce2 tanks.
 

Scubabatdan

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Couple n00b questions I shall asketh whilst drunketh.

1)any special t00l to use to make the j-h00ks?

2) quenching?? does that mean blast the asembled mesh/nichrome with cleansing fire and dunking in water 3 times?

3) you quick solder the pos leg when reassembling as well?

Thanks Dan. This is a c00l idea. I hate the flimsy wicks but love the ce2 tanks.

I use forceps and very small needle nose plyers. Quenching is imersing the hot SS in water to rapidly cool it, and form the odidation layer, yes you got it. I only resolder the pos leg if I have to desolder it. If I can remove the cup assembly from the tube with out desoldering, I will then I slide the cup down the pos wire and solder the J hooks while still connected to the assembly.
Hope this helps.
Dan
 

Teach

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I use forceps and very small needle nose plyers. Quenching is imersing the hot SS in water to rapidly cool it, and form the odidation layer, yes you got it. I only resolder the pos leg if I have to desolder it. If I can remove the cup assembly from the tube with out desoldering, I will then I slide the cup down the pos wire and solder the J hooks while still connected to the assembly.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Dan,

I haven’t been quenching my mesh, does that actually increase the wicking? I’m wondering if tap water would add residue (e.g. calcium) so would distilled be best?

Although not tested yet, I burned one coil after wrapping and one before just to try it out. Have you tried and does it make a difference? I did notice that the ‘before’ appeared to be less oxidized and closer to the original color after the same burn.

And thanks for putting this out at the beginning of my spring break instead of at the end!

Teach
 
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