A new hat - and some questions

[AngiBe]

I don't know anything about batteries, volts, ohms, so I just look for info that explains in terms of what we're doing...

Could someone explain how faster heating coils would draw more battery power? That actually makes more sense than what I previously thought (how do you have better flavor without using more power?)... but doesn't explain the low vapor. This whole electricity connection gives me a headache!! LOL!

Every single time I think I have it figured out, some how I confuse myself all over again on this whole concept! All I know is I want to achieve strong flavor and a warm vape. If I get vape clouds hurray, but don't care as much about it than the flavor/warm vape.

 

[AmandaD]

I found this:

LOWER OHMS OR HIGHER VOLTAGE
Allow more electricity to flow
Creates more heat at the coil
Creates more vapor
Provides warmer vapor
May intensifying or diminish flavor
Will drain your battery quicker
Dry hits are more likely
May cause premature battery failure
Uses more juice per puff, more refilling
HIGHER OHMS OR LOWER VOLTAGE
Allow less electricity to flow
Creates less heat at the coil
Creates less vapor
Provides cooler vapor
May intensifying or diminish flavor
Will drain your battery slower
Dry hits are less likely
Doesn’t cause premature battery failure
Uses less juice per puff, less refilling

So the both say 'may intensify or diminish flavor.' Which is it? LOL

Every single time I think I have it figured out, some how I confuse myself all over again on this whole concept! All I know is I want to achieve strong flavor and a warm vape. If I get vape clouds hurray, but don't care as much about it than the flavor/warm vape.

 

[AngiBe]

HHMMM. That is as clear as mud. Maybe it depends on juice/PG/VG? I need something simple enough for a 4 yr old to understand because that's the max of my attention span. A little worried I can't remember this stuff and I think I'm gonna try to build my own coils soon. Oh my

 

[glassgal]

I found this:

LOWER OHMS OR HIGHER VOLTAGE
Allow more electricity to flow
Creates more heat at the coil
Creates more vapor
Provides warmer vapor
May intensifying or diminish flavor
Will drain your battery quicker
Dry hits are more likely
May cause premature battery failure
Uses more juice per puff, more refilling
HIGHER OHMS OR LOWER VOLTAGE
Allow less electricity to flow
Creates less heat at the coil
Creates less vapor
Provides cooler vapor
May intensifying or diminish flavor
Will drain your battery slower
Dry hits are less likely
Doesn’t cause premature battery failure
Uses less juice per puff, less refilling

So the both say 'may intensify or diminish flavor.' Which is it? LOL

I think I have to pay more comparative attention to my coils... on the built ones, once it's built, I don't think about it again, and on the bought cartos/heads, I don't remember which ohms I used!

But I like your chart!! I think when they say intensify or diminish, they mean some juices are made so strong to begin with that if it's intensified, you stop tasting it? I dunno...

 

[AmandaD]

Experimention I guess!

HHMMM. That is as clear as mud. Maybe it depends on juice/PG/VG? I need something simple enough for a 4 yr old to understand because that's the max of my attention span. A little worried I can't remember this stuff and I think I'm gonna try to build my own coils soon. Oh my

 

[glassgal]

HHMMM. That is as clear as mud. Maybe it depends on juice/PG/VG? I need something simple enough for a 4 yr old to understand because that's the max of my attention span. A little worried I can't remember this stuff and I think I'm gonna try to build my own coils soon. Oh my

Haaa! ME TOO!! Building coils doesn't mean you have to know any of it... I don't. I just wrapped what other people said they did, checked it was between 1-2, and figured I was fine...

 

[AmandaD]

Hmmm...I didn't think I'd ever build coils, but I feel a growing interest....I guess this means MORE stuff to buy

Haaa! ME TOO!! Building coils doesn't mean you have to know any of it... I don't. I just wrapped what other people said they did, checked it was between 1-2, and figured I was fine...

 

[glassgal]

Hmmm...I didn't think I'd ever build coils, but I feel a growing interest....I guess this means MORE stuff to buy

Well, I have several RBA and RDA now, and by far the easiest to wrap is the Kayfun, it's also the simplest.

But right now, my favorite is the Steam Turbine, even tho it's the worst to wrap (that's just learning curve tho). It's silent, the tank's below the head, so i can check the head just by removing the top cap (for burnt, damage, need cotton, etc), and I experimented and made a SINGLE coil with cotton wick... but because it's got dual holes, I can go from double to quad coils if I feel motivated (I seriously doubt I will EVER get this motivated, but you never know), so it's really adaptable too. That and it's the coolest looking atomizer too.

And I still don't know what I'm doing or why I'm doing it (electricity wise). But it's a no-brainer to watch a few youtubes, see what they are doing, and just do that on the same unit.

 

[The Ocelot]

I am such an idiot....this morning I was so disgusted with both the Tribeca and the noise of my tank that I decided to switch to Absolute Pin which I know for sure has no weird top notes. I very carefully primed a new carto using the slow drip drip method. Waited. Filled up a tank - and BLISS............I guess the previous effort was entirely user error (as you all knew LOL). I can tell you that for some reason using the twiddle your thingy I didn't get it primed properly. Also because the tank is painted you can't see what's going on, so for me this method is much more reliable. And the awful noise and weird flavor is gone - now it's just a pleasant hiss

I didn't care for the Thingy method, it seemed to take longer. I think most people experiment with different ways to fill cartos, until they come up with one the works consistently for them. This is what I do (give or take variations I'm trying):

The Ocelot Method of Carto Filling (aka The Upside-Down Condom)

 

[The Ocelot]

Please excuse the math, but this is another way to look at lo-res vs. hi-res vaping. This is part of a blog I have been working on for awhile.

(I changed the order of quadrants around on the wheel, but the formulae are all still correct.)

P = power (watts)
V = volts
R = resistance
I = current (amps) I forgot why it's "I"

Voltage x voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = power (watts)

Voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = I (current/amps)

Hi- res:
4.9v²/3.0Ω = 8.0 watts
4.9v/3.0Ω = 1.6 amps

Lo-res:
3.7v²/1.7Ω = 8.0 watts
3.7v/1.7Ω = 2.2 amps

Even though a 3.0Ω atty at 4.9v and a 1.7Ω atty at 3.7v are producing the same amount of watts, when vaping lo-res the amps increase, which draws more from the battery.

Since 8 watts is 8 watts, an average vaper probably isn't going to notice a difference in the temperature of their vape, but they may notice the battery charge doesn't last as long.

ProVape recommends using 3.0Ω devices, since it offers a broader range of voltage settings to find your "Sweet Spot."

 

[Tepid]

The reason for may intensify or diminish flavor is....

All flavors taste different at different voltages (heat level)
Just as an analogy.... and I know this is kinda common sense, but it may need explaining in a more laymen term...
Don't take this the wrong way, it's not meant to be offensive. Just overly simplified?

Let's say we are (actual temps not important) vaping at 100 degrees
Raise or lower the voltage and you get 90 or 110 degrees
One juice will taste different at 120 degrees than at 80 degrees, but still be good.
Some juices taste better at 150 degrees and not so good at 100
and vice versa.

Hope this helps.

And Ocelot's post is also a great explanation on power.

I = Impedance
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance
In our applications, I do not believe Impedance has any affect.
Uhg, this was wrong. I would need to research more.

**********************************************
Found on the net......
I = Electrical "intensity" from the early days, (way before my time, even) it was an expression used for current.

C was used a lot in math for constants, so it was considered taken.
R of course, is resistance.
E is EMF, electromotive force or voltage.

PS: No offense to you, but I prefer E=IR. I know the trend is toward using V now. To me, V stands for volts which is a unit of EMF. Seems if we're going to start writing formulae that way we should change Ohm's law to use V=AΩ.
Just an old fart's opinion...
***********************************************

Electricity is a Wonderful Magic Power, and has very magical effects on different things at different times.
It is a wonder we are able to harness it as well as we do.

 

[AmandaD]

Thanks, Tepid and Ocelot! I get it finally....or at least the bits I needed to get

 

[The Ocelot]

Thanks, Tepid and Ocelot! I get it finally....or at least the bits I needed to get

I should have added that I think it's the devices being used that contributes more to the lo-res/hi-res debate. I don't notice much of a difference between using a 2.2Ω or 1.7Ω carto in a tank, but the difference between a 2.2Ω or 1.7Ω atty in a bottom-feeder is significant.

 

[Tepid]

I should have added that I think it's the devices being used that contributes more to the lo-res/hi-res debate. I don't notice much of a difference between using a 2.2Ω or 1.7Ω carto in a tank, but the difference between a 2.2Ω or 1.7Ω atty in a bottom-feeder is significant.

Yeah, I would agree. However, I will find out about Carto's tomorrow I hope.
But, There is a difference in vape at 2.4 on a top feeder clearo and a bottom feeder clearo.
Not so much on a dripper. It's about equiv on my Phoenix A7 to the Nova's, but the vape is definitely cleaner on the dripper
even at 2.4 ohm using silica.
I just don't use it that often. I need to find a new dripper.

I don't use BCC (Bottom Coil Clearo) anymore due to they leak easily.

 

[The Ocelot]

Yeah, I would agree. However, I will find out about Carto's tomorrow I hope.
But, There is a difference in vape at 2.4 on a top feeder clearo and a bottom feeder clearo.
Not so much on a dripper. It's about equiv on my Phoenix A7 to the Nova's, but the vape is definitely cleaner on the dripper
even at 2.4 ohm using silica.
I just don't use it that often. I need to find a new dripper.

I don't use BCC (Bottom Coil Clearo) anymore due to they leak easily.

I meant bottom-feeder, not bottom coil.

I still use the Protank 1 for convenience. It doesn't have the tight draw of the newer versions people have been complaining about and, after using it since last March, I've got it where it doesn't leak. I have to buy the highest res coils I can though, since in my experience it often burns juice over ≈ 7.5 watts - the same juice I can vape in an atty at 9 watts in a bottom-feeder. Go figure. That's why I vape to taste, not numbers (except when I'm deciding what resistance to buy).

 

[AmandaD]

I have the mini, and it leaks like a sieve everytime I open it up - wonky washers! Also it's very airy, which is annoying. Still I quite like it when it works....

 

[The Ocelot]

I have the mini, and it leaks like a sieve everytime I open it up - wonky washers! Also it's very airy, which is annoying. Still I quite like it when it works....

I've never used a mini. The Protanks came out after I had a ProVari and I don't buy eGo threaded devices. I prefer having too airy of a draw, rather than one that is too tight. It's an easier fix, on a 510 threaded device anyway.

 

[Baditude]

Electricity is the flow of electrons across a metalic surface (metal coils). A battery doesn't care if the coil is LR or HR, it gives its stored energy freely to both. How much energy (current or amps) it gives is determined by the resistance of the flow of electrons.

If that flow of electrons is impeded (high resistance coil), the current of electrons is lessened. Less energy (amperage or power) is required of the battery. The coils take longer to heat up because there are less amps being delivered, and they don't get as hot = a cooler vape.

The opposite is also true. If there is little resistance of the flow of electrons (low resistance coil), the electrons flow more freely, bringing more current (amperage) along with them and pull more energy from the battery. The coil gets warmer and warmer faster. A warmer vape is experienced.

Often misunderstood, its not the voltage which drains a battery, its the amp load. LR coils use more amps, HR coils use less amps.

Which is best? Low resistance, standard resistance, or high resistance? It depends upon user preference. Do you like your vapor warmer or cooler?

Keep in mind that LR coils were designed initially for fixed voltage mechanical mods to help them to simulate the higher voltage experience that regulated mods had.

I like a cooler vape. I personally can't use LR cartos unless they are on single voltage mechanical mods, which I rarely use any longer. I use standard resistance IKV cartos (Platinum or 510-Fusions) or 3.0 ohm single coil Smoktech cartos on my regulated mods, and rarely with a voltage over 4.5 volts. I adjust the voltage to the specific flavor that I am vaping. I typically get 2 - 3 weeks on a carto, keeping in mind that I often switch flavors (and tanks) 3 - 4 times a day.

 

[edyle]

I meant bottom-feeder, not bottom coil.

I still use the Protank 1 for convenience. It doesn't have the tight draw of the newer versions people have been complaining about and, after using it since last March, I've got it where it doesn't leak. I have to buy the highest res coils I can though, since in my experience it often burns juice over ≈ 7.5 watts - the same juice I can vape in an atty at 9 watts in a bottom-feeder. Go figure. That's why I vape to taste, not numbers (except when I'm deciding what resistance to buy).

What? You got a Protank to not leak!? How?

 

[glassgal]

Well, here's what I do with a coil when I check, just go up the left to the coil ohms (checked on Provari using the AO), and then stay in the green on the top line, and it's like magic... and I don't need to know anything about electricity (call it willful blindness...).

I got this from a link on this forum, but found it again: