A7 From Empire Mods?

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Randy C

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Feb 17, 2012
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I got 2 of these today and they don't work on my Reo VV's. I put the post down as far as it goes and it still is not long enough to make a connection. Are you using adapters with them?

I really want to try one on my Reo Grand. Is everyone experiencing the same issues on Reo's? Are these all the same, or will they vary depending on vendor?
 

penguinrudder

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Jul 27, 2012
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yeah its touching... but the wick is properly oxidized, so it never shorts.

I see. That's good to know that it never shorts if it's oxidized properly. I watched a video on youtube that you have to put e-juice or e-liquid on the mesh the light it up then dip it in water three times. Is this what you do? Or do you have another way of oxidizing the mesh? Thanks
 

BuzzKilla

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its always a trial and error process, my genesis style tanks get the occasional short, but my A7 never shorted out on me.

i use a mini torch.

torch the whole sheet.
roll it up.
torch and quench a few times. i dont always quench in water, doesnt make that much of a difference.
dip in ejuice, torch , and repeat a few times.

then wrap the coil.

i get the occasional short , but once wick is seasoned enough, i can just wrap a new coil on the same wick and not have a short...

i've been doing this for a while and on occasion get a short with a fresh wick, so if you dont get it right the first time, dont let it get to you. just keep at it.

the trick is to not over tighten the wire around the mesh. you want it to touch, but you dont want it too tight that it will rub off that layer of oxidation, or whatever it actually is.
 

coffeeslug

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Jul 30, 2012
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i have an A7 on either a silver bullet or a Reo grand - which my wife took the pliers to - a modded mod. I am really having immense trouble trying to wick and coil it - i have seen the videos, but i want to use SS wick - which i can roll in seconds it's so easy. What i cannot seem to get remotely right is the coil - it is a ....... to fit and when i measure the resistance after a lot of time cursing - it is very very low. I am using kanthal wire and 400 mesh for the wick. So my question is - how can i measure the final resistance before i put the coil on the wick? - i have measured the wire first and bent it where it hits - say 1.5 Ohms - but when it's wrapped it comes out much lower.

I'd be grateful for any tips and recommendations. T.

The problem I had with mine was the screws on both the positive and negative sometimes make a "strange" contact withe the resistance wire. that would give my coils an unusually low ohm reading.

Solution: either tighten the screws a little more, or less. it seems minor adjustments bring it to the correct ohm reading. Usually it just needs a little tighten.
 

Kemosabe

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Sep 21, 2011
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I see. That's good to know that it never shorts if it's oxidized properly. I watched a video on youtube that you have to put e-juice or e-liquid on the mesh the light it up then dip it in water three times. Is this what you do? Or do you have another way of oxidizing the mesh? Thanks

once you think youve got good oxidization going on, use a multimeter to test it. place the leads on various spots all along the wick. if you get an ohm reading, its not oxidized enough. keep torching until you cant get any reading at all no matter where you put your leads on the wick.
 

BuzzKilla

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OH! be careful if the atty does short, you want to do most if not all of the testing, off a mod.

having a shorted atty on some mods will fry them, i've collapsed a few springs(mechanical mod) because of this...

just felt like i had to mention this in case anyone here isnt already aware....
i really dont want to be blamed for helping someone fry the circuits of their mod...

multi-meters are your friend!
 

penguinrudder

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2012
85
11
Philippines
its always a trial and error process, my genesis style tanks get the occasional short, but my A7 never shorted out on me.

i use a mini torch.

torch the whole sheet.
roll it up.
torch and quench a few times. i dont always quench in water, doesnt make that much of a difference.
dip in ejuice, torch , and repeat a few times.

then wrap the coil.

i get the occasional short , but once wick is seasoned enough, i can just wrap a new coil on the same wick and not have a short...

i've been doing this for a while and on occasion get a short with a fresh wick, so if you dont get it right the first time, dont let it get to you. just keep at it.

the trick is to not over tighten the wire around the mesh. you want it to touch, but you dont want it too tight that it will rub off that layer of oxidation, or whatever it actually is.

Will do what you said once I get my hands on a mesh. Thanks for the info.
 

penguinrudder

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2012
85
11
Philippines
once you think youve got good oxidization going on, use a multimeter to test it. place the leads on various spots all along the wick. if you get an ohm reading, its not oxidized enough. keep torching until you cant get any reading at all no matter where you put your leads on the wick.

This is great to know. Better to be on the safe side of things. I've already shorted my mod doing a twisted coil before. Thanks!
 

penguinrudder

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2012
85
11
Philippines
OH! be careful if the atty does short, you want to do most if not all of the testing, off a mod.

having a shorted atty on some mods will fry them, i've collapsed a few springs(mechanical mod) because of this...

just felt like i had to mention this in case anyone here isnt already aware....
i really dont want to be blamed for helping someone fry the circuits of their mod...

multi-meters are your friend!

That's the only thing with rebuildable atomizers. You run the risk of shorting out your mod. I've shorted out 3 of my mods before and I really don't want that to happen again so I'll be cautious with the mesh building. Thanks!
 
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