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Thanks, my first home made PCB worked out good so I am trying my hand at one a little more complicated. I used PCBExpress to draw the diagrams and the Copper level for the board. I am using a radio shack copper PCB board, muratic acid (Pool Acid), Hydrogen Peroxide, a laser printer, and an iron to make the board. The acid and peroxide are a cheap etching liquid for making custom boards. I am excited to see how this works. I will post a list of materials and the copper schematics for the board if anyone want to duplicate it.
Attached is my first touch board I made for my pil fob running at 3.7v.
Dan
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Doh! Dang nab it.... Thanks will call and get that changed.
Thanks!
Yep it should have been Mouser PN: 652-3296Y-1-204LF Trimmer Resistors - Multi Turn 3/8 200Kohms Sealed Vertical Adjust
I changed the parts list to reflect the correct part.
Dan
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Yes, and Yes I have tried a touch switch but I needed a 100M resistor to make it more sensitive for dry skin as Ceasar suggested. I do find them more reliable in the long run. Here is my schematics for the PCB, all the resistors will be surface mounted not through hole ones.
Who needs a stinkin beadboard
Dan
Dan,
If you left the lands wider (leave more copper) do you think it would help to heat sink the regulator better?
How about increasing the lands, and leaving a copper area larger than the chip to disapate the heat. Could use CPU paste to help the transfer of heat from the chip to the copper area like this:
Dan
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I got some cooling kit for my computer years ago and got a bunch of little heat sinks like these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3...RAM_Heat_Sinks.html?tl=g40c18s236&id=hJk7qRPv
I'm wishing I still had those now.
I'm wishing I still had those now.
Remember that the less copper you remove from the board, the better it will etch. As soon as you require etching larger areas, the thinner areas will not etch as clean.
The added benefit is heat transfer and higher current carrying capacity.
The added benefit is heat transfer and higher current carrying capacity.
Well since they use copper shims on CPU's I naturally thought a larg copper area you could bolt the LDO to would help dissapate the heat.
Oh, he has got a Turbo Fan in the works too..
YES! and I have not found a spot yet in the PCB to put it since I have to run at 3vdc, I will have to cap the voltage to 3v.
Me too! I still have alot of computer parts will have to revisit that box
Agreed I will make the trace leads fatter so I have less to etch, but even when I did the small chip above, it worked very well with .010 trace leads. I have reworked the entire layout since I went back to make sure I had the proper spacing for the chips and found the LDO needed to be flipped around to take advantage of the copper heat sink. I have layed it out as attached and increased the trace leads to .030. I will probably have to do a top and bottom etching for the LDO, POT, and CAP leads and pads.
Well here is what I have,
Dan
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Well since they use copper shims on CPU's I naturally thought a larg copper area you could bolt the LDO to would help dissapate the heat.
YES! and I have not found a spot yet in the PCB to put it since I have to run at 3vdc, I will have to cap the voltage to 3v.
Me too! I still have alot of computer parts will have to revisit that box
Agreed I will make the trace leads fatter so I have less to etch, but even when I did the small chip above, it worked very well with .010 trace leads. I have reworked the entire layout since I went back to make sure I had the proper spacing for the chips and found the LDO needed to be flipped around to take advantage of the copper heat sink. I have layed it out as attached and increased the trace leads to .030. I will probably have to do a top and bottom etching for the LDO, POT, and CAP leads and pads.
Well here is what I have,
Dan
You are an artist. Some people can make hardware, some people can do software, some people can engineered....my friend...you can do it all.
Give him a minute Willy.. Give him a minute...
I've been looking my (newly acquired cartomizer) and peeled the tape off the outside (Apparently that's how this one is 'colored'...) Appears to be stainless steel.... Got me thinking back to "Lip Activation"..
If that was wired as one touch point, and the body (or an isolated plate on the body) of the PV's handle was wired as another... Ta-da!
I've been looking my (newly acquired cartomizer) and peeled the tape off the outside (Apparently that's how this one is 'colored'...) Appears to be stainless steel.... Got me thinking back to "Lip Activation"..
If that was wired as one touch point, and the body (or an isolated plate on the body) of the PV's handle was wired as another... Ta-da!
Been done.Give him a minute Willy.. Give him a minute...
I've been looking my (newly acquired cartomizer) and peeled the tape off the outside (Apparently that's how this one is 'colored'...) Appears to be stainless steel.... Got me thinking back to "Lip Activation"..
If that was wired as one touch point, and the body (or an isolated plate on the body) of the PV's handle was wired as another... Ta-da!
There you go... showing off again.
What no fins cut into the HS to improve efficiency?
LOL, hey you must have posted before I updated the LED readout
I was also thinkin of SMD Caps rather than through hole ones, I like the 25v ones you picked out, seen any surface mount ones that would fit the bill?Next step would be a USB charge circuit.
Dan
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Seems the cap requirements for the regs aren't as critical as they are for the booster. Many folks in the past have gone capless. I'm not even going to use one at Vout.LOL, hey you must have posted before I updated the LED readout
Next step would be a USB charge circuit.
Dan
For vaping I don't think we have to worry about 'good transient response'.
You might read this post for some low ESR surface mount caps.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-these-caps-good-ti-booster.html#post1705811
You realize a charger for stacked, series batts will require some sort of 'balancing' circuit. A Li-Ion pack needs independent voltage monitoring, and each cell in series must be monitored for voltage
Post a year ago.
You owe me a monitor - I just spit coffee all over mine..
I am just going to sit back and wait for Dan and Willy to finish off this project, I want the USB charging circuit / passthough in there too... And maybe a cappuccino maker..
LOL, hey you must have posted before I updated the LED readout
Next step would be a USB charge circuit.
Dan
Dan,
Is your volt meter an internal one? If it is can you tell me what one you are using?
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