Adjustable voltage box mod

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Bubo

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That's great - thanks Dee (And umm, Rocket...) :)
I've been studying a couple other threads on these switches using regulators and MOSFETs (A MOSFET is a FET?) and will be picking up a few - I really like madvapes little itty bitty switches, and according to some dim memory of a thread long ago, using a MOSFET to control the current to a 50ma switch would be a good thing.

Of course, I, like everyone else is searching for the holy grail of PVs... Tiny, effective and bulletproof.. :) and oh yeah - good looking....
 

st0nedpenguin

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From Willy's modifications, is this correct now?

ldo3.jpg

Would I be correct in assuming that the CT pin in this diagram is control, meaning a low amp switch can be used safely like the MV LDO regulators?
 

bigblue30

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st0nedpenguin,

You are correct. The control switch is a low amp N/C switch. When the switch opens the regulator fires.

Would I be correct in assuming that the CT pin in this diagram is control, meaning a low amp switch can be used safely like the MV LDO regulators?
 

bigblue30

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Hmm, how easy would it be to modify the circuit for a N/O switch if possible? I'm probably going to need flexibility on tiny switches for the box I'm planning.

No way to make the control a N/O, it just does not work that way....but if you do not connect anything to the control...leave it hanging in the air....and just use a 3 amp switch to supply voltage from the battery you can get away with using just 1 switch.

Does this make sense? If not please ask another question.

Steve.
 

Bubo

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Trying to find tiny tactile switches similar to the MV ones appears to be a nightmare.

If you find any, be sure to post.... I can't find any either!
I am leaning towards a touch switch set up (described in this thread), just because I want something tiny and unobtrusive, but I like the 'clicky' part....
 

bigblue30

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Is there any way to tell if a switch is N/C or N/O if it isn't specified? Trying to find tiny tactile switches similar to the MV ones appears to be a nightmare.

If it does not say...you can not tell by just looking at it. Sometime in the discription it will have (on)-off "this is N/O", or on-(off) "this is N/C. Like the ones below.


(ON)-OFF
Push-to-make = SPST Momentary A push-to-make switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you release the button, this is shown by the brackets around ON. This is the standard doorbell switch. Photograph © Rapid Electronics
swpush.gif
swpush.jpg

Push-to-make switch


ON-(OFF)
Push-to-break = SPST Momentary A push-to-break switch returns to its normally closed (on) position when you release the button. Photograph © Rapid Electronics
swpbrk.gif
swpbrk.jpg

Push-to-break switch
 

st0nedpenguin

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Yeah, I'm noticing that some switches just don't state which type they are at all, which is awesome.

That being said I think I can probably shoehorn a more regular sized switch in here somewhere if I stare at it long enough.

Thanks for all the info too, I'd have been puzzled for who knows how long trying to wire in the wrong switch if it wasn't for your help!
 

WillyB

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Yeah, I'm noticing that some switches just don't state which type they are at all, which is awesome.

That being said I think I can probably shoehorn a more regular sized switch in here somewhere if I stare at it long enough.

Thanks for all the info too, I'd have been puzzled for who knows how long trying to wire in the wrong switch if it wasn't for your help!
Biggie's original schematic and my crude diagram both listed the NC switch.

mamu_fix.JPG


RS has some cheapies. How well they work IDK.

Pushbutton Normally-Closed Momentary Switch(4-Pack) - RadioShack.com
 
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roadrash

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Biggie's original schematic and my crude diagram both listed the NC switch.

mamu_fix.JPG


RS has some cheapies.

Pushbutton Normally-Closed Momentary Switch(4-Pack) - RadioShack.com

I am using the 3amp nc switch from Rs and they have a problem, unless you let the button snap back it doesn't always make connection and leaves the attie firing. So when you have a few pops and are talking to people and some one says (whats burning) you will know what it is.:D:D

I am going back to one no switch, where the only problem is not contacting, so no vape.:)
 

WillyB

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I am using the 3amp nc switch from Rs and they have a problem, unless you let the button snap back it doesn't always make connection and leaves the attie firing. So when you have a few pops and are talking to people and some one says (whats burning) you will know what it is.:D:D

I am going back to one no switch, where the only problem is not contacting, so no vape.:)
I guess I gave the impression I was recommending the RS switches, I wasn't, just showing that they can be had there.

There are many quality NC small switches available for about $3 - $8.

Grayhill - 30-2 - Sensors, Switches & Relays - Switches - Allied Electronics

C&K / ITT / Cannon - 8533MZQE2 - Sensors, Switches & Relays - Switches - Allied Electronics

RS Electronics Catalog | Switches | Pushbutton Switches | Wiping Contact 1 Amp Pushbutton Switches | 10-101 (Grayhill)
 

Scubabatdan

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Anyone want to trouble shoot this schematic :)

I am working on a touch switch with variable voltage and a LED voltage display, It is not out of the realm to incorporate the power fan and power pump for the atty.
Dan
 

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Scubabatdan

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Assuming a UCC283/383 for your LDO and your mosfet driven touch switch, Pin 2 (CT) should go unused. Pulling CT to ground turns off the reg.


So it should look like the schematic below.
I was wondering what to do with the CTR leg... That makes sense.
Everything else look ok to you? If so I can start working on the copper layer for the PCB board.
Thanks,
Dan

Opps it was suppose to be 10uf on the caps not 100uf.
 

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WillyB

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What! No breadboard first.... :)

I think it looks right. You are planning on using polarized caps I presume.

Have you tried a touch switch? A played around a bit after our first go around and didn't really like it. I guess as an old button pusher I like the tactile response of a real switch and it took some thought to remember to actually remove my fingers/thumbs each time. I'm used to keeping them on the button.

Hopefully you'll show us how to do it right.
 

Scubabatdan

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What! No breadboard first.... :)

I think it looks right. You are planning on using polarized caps I presume.

Have you tried a touch switch? A played around a bit after our first go around and didn't really like it. I guess as an old button pusher I like the tactile response of a real switch and it took some thought to remember to actually remove my fingers/thumbs each time. I'm used to keeping them on the button.

Hopefully you'll show us how to do it right.

Yes, and Yes I have tried a touch switch but I needed a 100M resistor to make it more sensitive for dry skin as Ceasar suggested. I do find them more reliable in the long run. Here is my schematics for the PCB, all the resistors will be surface mounted not through hole ones.
Who needs a stinkin beadboard :)
Dan
 

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roadrash

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Willy, I was just letting the modders know about the RS switch with this setup. you definitely have to use a quality NC switch if you go with the 2 switch wiring. I went back to one switch and it works for me.
Thanks for all your help and support. M8.:D
 
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bigblue30

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Yes, and Yes I have tried a touch switch but I needed a 100M resistor to make it more sensitive for dry skin as Ceasar suggested. I do find them more reliable in the long run. Here is my schematics for the PCB, all the resistors will be surface mounted not through hole ones.
Who needs a stinkin beadboard :)
Dan

That does look good.
 
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