And that’s both ends of it. To avoid the ohm meter either use a VV mod as an ohm meter or simply put at least 5 wraps on any coil you make and live in ignorance. (It works fine I did it for years) To avoid th scissors and tweezers use the nail clipper for both. It’s just a question of how deep you want to get. @-KT- is right in that his setup is complete and easy to use. You can even buy everything complete in a carry case. My point I guess is there’s nothing stopping you. You can buy a complete kit, and/or get started tognight with $10, and a quick trip to the drug store.View attachment 702807
I just started building coils myself, and so I made a pic ^^^ of what I currently use. I also have some links if you want to buy this stuff on Amazon. And, you can get much better prices if you shop around a bit, or even look for kits that have some or all of what you may need. I just wanted to show you what things look like, what they are used for, and what they (may) cost.
Coil Master 521 Mini Tab - you don't absolutely need this, but it makes a good deck to build on:
https://www.amazon.com/Kamisafe-521...id=1511741114&sr=8-1&keywords=coil+master+521
Ceramic tweezers - they MUST be ceramic tipped. This is what you use to strum and adjust coils:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZBFQHC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1
Small screwdrivers - look for shaft diameters around 2.5 to 3mm (or both):
https://www.amazon.com/MulWark-Prec...sr=1-1-spons&keywords=small+screwdriver&psc=1
Small scissors - they need to be super sharp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0199VSV42/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&smid=A2IME0Z5O2LH6Y
Small wire cutters - they need to have a 1.5mm or less "standoff:"
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-17...1511741646&sr=8-1&keywords=small+wire+cutters
Battery(ies) - shop around but make sure it/they are authentic:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS4VRVO/ref=psdc_10112773011_t1_B01F7ZK4US
Muji Cotton:
https://www.amazon.com/Makeup-Facia...8&qid=1511741869&sr=sr-1&keywords=muji+cotton
---OR---
Rayon:
https://www.amazon.com/Graham-Profe...8&qid=1511741901&sr=sr-1&keywords=rayon+fiber
Wire - maybe get a sample pack so you can experiment:
https://www.amazon.com/100-Gauge-Ka...e=UTF8&qid=1511741955&sr=8-4&keywords=kanthal
Again - shop around!!!! The kits that have this stuff in them are a pretty good deal, but I find that I pretty much only use the tools in the pic. If you have any of this stuff laying around - use it. No need to buy fancy wire cutters, scissors, or screwdrivers if you already have them.
I would highly recommend trying both cotton and rayon for wicking. Rayon is nearly impossible to scorch, which is a good thing when you are learning. It also wicks better and to me, tastes better. It's a little harder to get the wicking right - but there are threads here that explain it.
[Space for edits, because I know I will edit this posts, LOL]
and no. If you already have a regulated mod it has an ohm meter built in so you can just use that. If you don’t it is possible to go without any kind of ohm checking but you are limited to known “safe” coil designs and high means you can’t optomize your sub ohming or do very long wrap coils. They’re also handy to build on because the wide base is very stable.Thank you all for your very informative posts. I am adding items to my shopping cart right now
So far I have organic japanese cotton and 26 gauge kanthal wire.
I am pretty sure I have all the tools mentioned except for the ohm meter (and battery for ohm meter).
Is the ohm meter necessary? It will measure the resistance correct? I think the resistance depends on how many times the coil is wrapped, is this also correct?
Finally, what is dry heating?
Special thanks to KT for his very informative post Thank you.
Hello. I will be using a joytech egoOne tank with the Joyetech CLR coils (rebuildable).
First question, what tools would I need and where would I buy the organic cotton from?
Yes
and no. If you already have a regulated mod it has an ohm meter built in so you can just use that. If you don’t it is possible to go without any kind of ohm checking but you are limited to known “safe” coil designs and high means you can’t optomize your sub ohming or do very long wrap coils. They’re also handy to build on because the wide base is very stable.
As for dry heating, do you mean dry burning?
Yes
and no. If you already have a regulated mod it has an ohm meter built in so you can just use that. If you don’t it is possible to go without any kind of ohm checking but you are limited to known “safe” coil designs and high means you can’t optomize your sub ohming or do very long wrap coils. They’re also handy to build on because the wide base is very stable.
As for dry heating, do you mean dry burning?
mostly for the nickel and titanium wires iron oxide is iron oxide so the kanthal and stainless wire can be dry burned fineAh, yes, I meant dry burning. I just looked it up and it seems to clear the residue on the wire, though some chemists believe it might be dangerous as it oxidizes the metal or what not.
Yes
and no. If you already have a regulated mod it has an ohm meter built in so you can just use that. If you don’t it is possible to go without any kind of ohm checking but you are limited to known “safe” coil designs and high means you can’t optomize your sub ohming or do very long wrap coils. They’re also handy to build on because the wide base is very stable.
As for dry heating, do you mean dry burning?
Agreed. I probably should have linked to a reputable site for batteries.Just a word of caution...it is not recommended to buy batteries from Amazon or ebay. You can't be positive they are authentic. I get mine from Liion Wholesale, great prices and Mooch approved.