Just got mine today. The hole does not line up with the wick hole, and the bad part is it is to the left of the wick hole so if i sand the cap " like most can " it will just turn the hole more left. Anyone have any idea how i can fix this?
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on my aga-t, it also doesnt line up. but i just make it line up, although it is not screwed all the way down. it is still air tight because of the o-ring.
Also, it doesn't matter how far or close it is from the wick, just sand it until it lines up. It doesn't take very much material to be taken off to rotate the cap all the way around to the wick. What I've done to mine was sand a bit, clean it off (as the metal shaving will get in the threads), try it to gauge how much more I need to take off. Rinse and repeat until it lines up!
I know, but you are going to make it go left all the way around to almost where it started, but not completely all the way. just to the wick. One of mine I had to go 90 percent of a full turn to get it to line up. It will work, I assure you.
you know i have heard of the sanding thing, but i would not reccomend if you dont need to. when i changed over from the plastic tank to a glass tank it actually changed the alignment by a little. i guess you at that point could sand again, but i dont see any problems with mine, like i said it is still sealed and it is not tightened all the way down. also same with my did, when i added a clear tank to it, it changed the alignment some. so just keep in mind that if you do sand it, for some reasons it can change again.
They sell glass for the aga ? and you i will hole off on sanding. Just tried to get this thing going and not having much luck. All i get is e-1 all the time. Going to try the solid wick with your h and w and see.
Try a few wraps of dental floss under the o-ring, this raises the o-ring up a little bit to line up the hole and still allow a tight seal. I found that if I just backed the cap up to line it up it sealed but would wobble around, it didnt effect the performance but was annoying.
Mine had the same issue and you can fix easily just get a thick black o ring as used on cars and replace the standard red o ring with it then the cap wont go on the threads as much but cos it is olny on a o ring you can force it round to line up hope that helps
And yes i have just ordered some as mine cracked order of the ibtanked website $8 for the glass and $6 delivery from us to uk very cheap
I'm not entirely sure we are talking about the same thing. The top cap screws on to the top plate. That top plate doesn't care if you have it on a table or flying in the air, nor does it care if you have plastic or glass underneath it. While I can understand it would may be move the top plate up or down, depending on the height if the tank, it should have no affect on the cap and the way it screws on to the top plate.
The top cap is only affected by the threads to which it is screwing down on, and what can be changed is its depth. Either a spacer (like an o-ring or dental floss) or removing a few layers off the bottom. I chose to remove a couple layers of metal and it seats flat and the hole lines up to the wick. I use poly and glass tanks, it changes nothing about the cap.
Not to jack this thread but I just got an aga t and am only getting .9 ohms with 10 wraps of 32 g kanthal. I have a provari so I am sure it is reading right. I would like to at least get to 1.2 but can't fit anymore wraps
think about it, the deck is moveable. if your tank is slightly shorter the deck tightens up or loosens up to meet the tank
you know you are correct, sorry. it may have been another reason why my distance changed, but it did and not sure why. after i changed to a glass tank on my did, the hole now doesnt line up the same. at first thought i thought it was the glass, but thinking about it doesnt make sense.
No need to say sorry, trust me, I make mistakes with the best of them!
The two things that have caused alignment issues on mine are; once, the Kanthal wire actually got in the threads because I didn't cut it, and I couldn't tell except it wouldn't screw all the way; the oring bunched up just enough to not allow the cap to seat properly.
May one of those?
You have a short. 10 wraps of 32 ga Kanthal should be higher than 3 ohms, I would think.
Try removing the coil and using Peter K, cig rolling paper trick or oxidizing the wick again. Then, make sure the top lead from the post to the wick is very short, or double back your excess wire.
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