AGA-T issues/parts?

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studiovap

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Dayum! That's a lot of wattage. I DIY all my own juice; and there aren't any I make that I could take above around 9 watts, without tasting like molten asphalt.
On a carto or a clearo Id agree 9watts is ample. On and genny with for exampl 120mm of #500 mesh saturated with hgh VG juise wrapped in an 8wrap 28g nichrome coil, believe me you need around 17-18 watts, and as that's on a me handicap mode the range has to start pretty high to end up with say 17 watts when the battery discharge curve settles out at around 3.8v
 

Rule62

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On a carto or a clearo Id agree 9watts is ample. On and genny with for exampl 120mm of #500 mesh saturated with hgh VG juise wrapped in an 8wrap 28g nichrome coil, believe me you need around 17-18 watts, and as that's on a me handicap mode the range has to start pretty high to end up with say 17 watts when the battery discharge curve settles out at around 3.8v

Too high for me. I have 9 Gennys going currently, some with 400, some with 500. I run 2.2 to 2.4 ohm coils, with 32ga kanthal. Usually around 4.5 volts. Amp draw is 1.9-2.0 A.
 

dwcraig1

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On a carto or a clearo Id agree 9watts is ample. On and genny with for exampl 120mm of #500 mesh saturated with hgh VG juise wrapped in an 8wrap 28g nichrome coil, believe me you need around 17-18 watts, and as that's on a me handicap mode the range has to start pretty high to end up with say 17 watts when the battery discharge curve settles out at around 3.8v
After reading this I pulled my AGA-T with 28g nichrome and 400SS @ 2.1 ohms off of my VV Gripper and put it on my Vmax v2 with stacked batteries. I then set it to mean @ 6 volts and was pleasantly surprised. Never before have I used it at that setting. No warm up drag needed there.
 

Rule62

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After reading this I pulled my AGA-T with 28g nichrome and 400SS @ 2.1 ohms off of my VV Gripper and put it on my Vmax v2 with stacked batteries. I then set it to mean @ 6 volts and was pleasantly surprised. Never before have I used it at that setting. No warm up drag needed there.

Yes, it certainly eliminates the need for the warm up drag.
 

Rule62

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Because I'm using the drill bit method my center post is too far away and at high voltage is really shows it's self, I guess I'll have to build another coil and ad some NR to the positive end.

I also use the drill bit method; but I don't clip off the ends of the wire until I have the wick installed. After the wick is inserted through the coil, I loosen up the + and - connections, and take out any slack that may be in the coil. At the same time, I'll nudge the top of the wick closer to the center post at the top.
 

CountSmackula

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I do that as well. Sometimes when the top leg is 'too hot'', I'll wrap a bit of the tail from the positive wire back around that leg. It does lower the ohms by .1 or .2 though.

I also use the drill bit method; but I don't clip off the ends of the wire until I have the wick installed. After the wick is inserted through the coil, I loosen up the + and - connections, and take out any slack that may be in the coil. At the same time, I'll nudge the top of the wick closer to the center post at the top.
 

Rule62

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I do that as well. Sometimes when the top leg is 'too hot'', I'll wrap a bit of the tail from the positive wire back around that leg. It does lower the ohms by .1 or .2 though.

I've seen where people do that. I've thought about bending some wire back, and twisting the leg between the wick and the positive post, before making the connection. I haven't ever tried it yet.
 

Justsidewayz

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Hi, I'm having a little trouble with my AGA-T2. The wick and coil is not a problem as I have read from others but here is my problem. I have a 32awg kanthal 3/4 wrap for a 2.0 ohm coil measured @ the coil positive and negative connections on top of the tank. How ever when I read it on the bottom 510 connector it reads 2.5ohm. I ohm'd out the positive post top to bottom and the meter said no resistance. Now when I check ohms between the negative at the 510 connection and the top plate/ coil negative connection it reads .5 ohm.

Ok so we all can see im losing some power thru the ground of the body of the AGA-T2. Is anyone else seeing this same thing, or does anyone know how to correct it even better! I thought if putting nolux or electrical grease on the threads, but the ground tube is inside your tank but sealed off by an o-ring.... so idk?
 

AZCraig

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Hi, I'm having a little trouble with my AGA-T2. The wick and coil is not a problem as I have read from others but here is my problem. I have a 32awg kanthal 3/4 wrap for a 2.0 ohm coil measured @ the coil positive and negative connections on top of the tank. How ever when I read it on the bottom 510 connector it reads 2.5ohm. I ohm'd out the positive post top to bottom and the meter said no resistance. Now when I check ohms between the negative at the 510 connection and the top plate/ coil negative connection it reads .5 ohm.

Ok so we all can see im losing some power thru the ground of the body of the AGA-T2. Is anyone else seeing this same thing, or does anyone know how to correct it even better! I thought if putting nolux or electrical grease on the threads, but the ground tube is inside your tank but sealed off by an o-ring.... so idk?


Try taking it apart and scrubbing all the threads with a toothbrush and Everclear (or triple distilled vodka if you can't get Everclear).
Take a good look at the male and female threaded parts and see if there is anything there that shouldn't be there.
 

Justsidewayz

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May 12, 2011
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Thanks I tore it down because i was getting even higher than .5 ohms it was like 2.0 ohm in the neg side the first time. I washed everything with hot water. After the wash it had dropped to .5ohm so yeah I think your on the right track with the alcohol. Think I could use 99% isopropyl alcohol? Have to get supplies and rebuild tomorrow but thanks again for the advice!
 
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