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AGA-T+ Rebuildable Atomizer

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Railrust

Moved On
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Nov 6, 2012
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I recommend Kanthal Ribbon 0.1 x 0.4 for SS mesh (that's what I'm using). The flatness of the ribbon tends to reduce the number of hotspots.

I also suspect you may be over tightening your coil at the top. This used to happen to me a lot when I was first starting out, until I started using the Petar K method. You only want the SS mesh to touch the coil, and not have the coil bite into the mesh, which causes shorts and hotspots. The ideal setup is when you can gently twist the mesh and 'unscrew' it from the coil.

Ericska's method on post #183 also helps when I still get stubborn hotspots but that's fairly rare now.

Funny thing just happened to me. I tore down my AGA and cleaned it. I went back with 28g and popped the top wire right off the bat. I decided to put the ribbon wire on it just to see if it reduced the hotspot and bingo worked like a charm. I now have it at 1.3 ohm with a 500 ss mesh on a Natural Mechanical mod. There is something to the ribbon wire and reducing hot spots. This setup now is vaping better than my AC9 and GG Mod.....its how you do your coil that counts!!
 

vapir

Full Member
Verified Member
you may use twisted kanthal. you can google how to make it. me too have that problem before but never since, even no hotspot, no need to bend the wick.

When you twist the kanthal you are essentially creating a double coil. The same amount of Watts (?) is now halved, which is probably why you are not getting the hotspots, since it may not be getting hot enough if you are using a non VV mod.

I.E. A 1.5 Ohm dual coil is made up with two 3 ohm coils in parallel. So instead of one coil heated to around 9 watts (assuming voltage is 3.7), you get two coils at around 4.5 watts each. Total power is still around 9 watts, but with dualies that power is 'spread out' over twice the length of coil, it's also snipped in half and wired in parallel, so that's why it works more like two dimmer light bulbs than a single brighter light blub.

Dual coils typically run at lower temperatures than single coils (ponder two 40 watt light bulbs in a lamp instead of a single 80 watt bulb) but they can produce a bit more lung hit at those lower temperatures due to more coil touching liquid to make vapor.

Dual coils can go through liquid a little faster if you still like to take long slow drags.

Dual coils can drain your battery a little faster. Make sure you're using a big battery with plenty of mah, preferably tested with the LR dual coils.
 
Hey guys anybody has any experience using Ribbon Wire? Apparently they work pretty esp with the genny tank. Just wanting to know. Legadgets are selling. Will to give it a try.

EDIT: Ignore this post guys... the noobness in me forgot about the previous post about the ribbon wire. Either that or me just being sleep. PEACE!
 
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Hello fellow vapers,

Been using my AGA-t+ for a little over 2 weeks now. Here's what I've done.

Hardware:
1. Drilled the wick hole to 3mm
2. Drilled the draw hole to 2mm

Software:
1. With silica wick 6mm ( 3 mm folded over itself ) i find that .25 mm Kanthal A1 , 6/7 coils at 1.9-2.1 ohms, delivers the coolest vape yet, almost on par with the ZAP.
With regards to using Kanthal ribbon here, The silica just about keeps up with the ribbon , but the ohms are a bit low for my liking, maybe i'm a bit biased, i am aiming for a cool vape here.
2. With SS mesh both 325 and 400 ( waiting for 500 in the mail) the wicking is phenomenal and the best coi so farl in my opinion ( cool vape)would be 30awg kanthal A1 at 5/6 coils delivering 1.9 ohms, seriously cool vape and flavour. I must add that the ribbon also works wonders here, ran it at 4/5 coils, the ss mesh could easily keep up with the ribbon, great flavour, but the vape was a bit too warm for my taste.

I've included some pics to go with the above.

Just my 2s worth.

Great to see you all here. Cheers!


image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Stole this pic from legadgets fb page. Old AGA T2 on top and the new one below =)

View attachment 197849

They gave it an extra hole, saw a guy put in a 2+1 combo silica wick through both the holes as an inverted 'u' wick. I tried it, but its quite cumbersome to setup. I quite like the 3mm wick folded in two, single hole.

By the way, noob question, what's the small screw and post there for? Can't seem to figure it out :oops:

From what I could gather, the T2 and T+ are the same ( 2nd gen) , but I see the T2/T+being sold overseas with a glass tank( don't seem to see much mention of the T+ though, maybe it's the Asian version :D) . Mine' s definitely not. Is there really a difference between the two?
 

loodeytunes

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Feb 20, 2013
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Malaysia - KayElle
They gave it an extra hole, saw a guy put in a 2+1 combo silica wick through both the holes as an inverted 'u' wick. I tried it, but its quite cumbersome to setup. I quite like the 3mm wick folded in two, single hole.

By the way, noob question, what's the small screw and post there for? Can't seem to figure it out :oops:

From what I could gather, the T2 and T+ are the same ( 2nd gen) , but I see the T2/T+being sold overseas with a glass tank( don't seem to see much mention of the T+ though, maybe it's the Asian version :D) . Mine' s definitely not. Is there really a difference between the two?
The only difference i know is T+ comes with poly and T2 is pyrex, i think there are other differences too, read this thread (i dont really follow this thread so i cant tell you much). Eric can prob tell you more about this.
 

feelinggood

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
I recommend Kanthal Ribbon 0.1 x 0.4 for SS mesh (that's what I'm using). The flatness of the ribbon tends to reduce the number of hotspots.

I also suspect you may be over tightening your coil at the top. This used to happen to me a lot when I was first starting out, until I started using the Petar K method. You only want the SS mesh to touch the coil, and not have the coil bite into the mesh, which causes shorts and hotspots. The ideal setup is when you can gently twist the mesh and 'unscrew' it from the coil.

Ericska's method on post #183 also helps when I still get stubborn hotspots but that's fairly rare now.

I would think the flatness of the ribbon produces a wider contact area and thus adds to the possibility of hotspots? Though it would also produce more vapor?
 

eHuman

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Jul 18, 2010
2,591
2,369
San Diego
By the way, noob question, what's the small screw and post there for? Can't seem to figure it out :oops:

From what I could gather, the T2 and T+ are the same ( 2nd gen) , but I see the T2/T+being sold overseas with a glass tank( don't seem to see much mention of the T+ though, maybe it's the Asian version :D) . Mine' s definitely not. Is there really a difference between the two?
The AGA-T+ and AGA-T2 are identical except the + has a plastic tank, the 2 has a glass tank.
The post with the screw and hole is for using a horizontal coil with silica wick, it is the negative terminal. Some people put one end of the silica into the fill hole and the other into the wick hole.

I'm trying silica in my AGA-T2 for the first time tonight. 2.5mm doubled plus a short section of 1mm with it only under the coil. 28g 4 wraps @1Ω. In order to get the wick into the wick hole easier i wrapped a small piece of
SS mesh from an old wick around the end the goes into the tank. (sort of like that plastic piece on the end of a shoe lace). Makes it easier to insert.
Picture 95.jpgPicture 93.jpg
 

Tippit

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Mar 3, 2013
30
30
Walker Louisiana
I have a belt sander that I use to sharpen my knives. I used it to shorten my top cap. I took off as much as I could of the bottom and still keep the air hole above the base and also keep the inside off my wick and center post. I also took some off the top where the drip tip goes which let the drip tip set down lower in the top cap. I love it even more now! The vape is much warmer.
 

ericska

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
I have a belt sander that I use to sharpen my knives. I used it to shorten my top cap. I took off as much as I could of the bottom and still keep the air hole above the base and also keep the inside off my wick and center post. I also took some off the top where the drip tip goes which let the drip tip set down lower in the top cap. I love it even more now! The vape is much warmer.

Shorten the top cap? That means the air hole position go lower a bit? Now I noticed there was a different between the old batch and new batch I bought... The new(second batch I think) batch its air hole did lower a millimeter...
IMG_1790_zps32d86f92.jpg


And, "keep the inside off my wick and center post"? Don't mind please explain little more detail about this? Thanks.
 

Tippit

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Mar 3, 2013
30
30
Walker Louisiana
What I did was make the air chamber inside a little smaller by taking some off the bottom of my top cap. And also taking some off the top of it too. Here's a picture, image_02.jpg

image_03.jpg


I had to be careful not to take too much off, you don't have but so much room under the cap. And also when you snap your cap on the air hole isn't very for from the base. Sorry I'm not real good at explaining things. I hope this helps.
 
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ericska

Super Member
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What I did was make the air chamber inside a little smaller by taking some off the bottom of my top cap. And also taking some off the top of it too.
I had to be careful not to take too much off, you don't have but so much room under the cap. And also when you snap your cap on the air hole isn't very for from the base. Sorry I'm not real good at explaining things. I hope this helps.

I see... so you made the room(air chamber) inside a bit smaller and get the warmer vape. Interesting, maybe I should try too since I also like warm vape. Thank you Sir!
 

weisner

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 1, 2012
276
259
Costa Mesa, CA
I think I'm going to mod my AGA-T+s too...

Found this from http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick-226.html#post9337970

crop_zpsf964d8dc.jpg


Of course not as tall as this. Same height as original...
What do you think? :?:

Where did you get that center post mod? If you did not purchase it can you tell me what the thread type is so that I can try and imitate it. I am pretty sure I can thread some brass or SS rod and use a drill press to make something simple and cool like that. But WOW I like the way that looks..
 
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