My juice in my aga turned dark almost black it isnt like this before..
I recommend Kanthal Ribbon 0.1 x 0.4 for SS mesh (that's what I'm using). The flatness of the ribbon tends to reduce the number of hotspots.
I also suspect you may be over tightening your coil at the top. This used to happen to me a lot when I was first starting out, until I started using the Petar K method. You only want the SS mesh to touch the coil, and not have the coil bite into the mesh, which causes shorts and hotspots. The ideal setup is when you can gently twist the mesh and 'unscrew' it from the coil.
Ericska's method on post #183 also helps when I still get stubborn hotspots but that's fairly rare now.
you may use twisted kanthal. you can google how to make it. me too have that problem before but never since, even no hotspot, no need to bend the wick.
My juice in my aga turned dark almost black it isnt like this before..
That's weird...why do you think it happened?
Stole this pic from legadgets fb page. Old AGA T2 on top and the new one below =)
View attachment 197849
The only difference i know is T+ comes with poly and T2 is pyrex, i think there are other differences too, read this thread (i dont really follow this thread so i cant tell you much). Eric can prob tell you more about this.They gave it an extra hole, saw a guy put in a 2+1 combo silica wick through both the holes as an inverted 'u' wick. I tried it, but its quite cumbersome to setup. I quite like the 3mm wick folded in two, single hole.
By the way, noob question, what's the small screw and post there for? Can't seem to figure it out
From what I could gather, the T2 and T+ are the same ( 2nd gen) , but I see the T2/T+being sold overseas with a glass tank( don't seem to see much mention of the T+ though, maybe it's the Asian version) . Mine' s definitely not. Is there really a difference between the two?
Hi i'm new to vaping... should i get aGa T+ or Kanger protank?
I recommend Kanthal Ribbon 0.1 x 0.4 for SS mesh (that's what I'm using). The flatness of the ribbon tends to reduce the number of hotspots.
I also suspect you may be over tightening your coil at the top. This used to happen to me a lot when I was first starting out, until I started using the Petar K method. You only want the SS mesh to touch the coil, and not have the coil bite into the mesh, which causes shorts and hotspots. The ideal setup is when you can gently twist the mesh and 'unscrew' it from the coil.
Ericska's method on post #183 also helps when I still get stubborn hotspots but that's fairly rare now.
The AGA-T+ and AGA-T2 are identical except the + has a plastic tank, the 2 has a glass tank.By the way, noob question, what's the small screw and post there for? Can't seem to figure it out
From what I could gather, the T2 and T+ are the same ( 2nd gen) , but I see the T2/T+being sold overseas with a glass tank( don't seem to see much mention of the T+ though, maybe it's the Asian version) . Mine' s definitely not. Is there really a difference between the two?
I have a belt sander that I use to sharpen my knives. I used it to shorten my top cap. I took off as much as I could of the bottom and still keep the air hole above the base and also keep the inside off my wick and center post. I also took some off the top where the drip tip goes which let the drip tip set down lower in the top cap. I love it even more now! The vape is much warmer.
What I did was make the air chamber inside a little smaller by taking some off the bottom of my top cap. And also taking some off the top of it too.
I had to be careful not to take too much off, you don't have but so much room under the cap. And also when you snap your cap on the air hole isn't very for from the base. Sorry I'm not real good at explaining things. I hope this helps.
I think I'm going to mod my AGA-T+s too...
Found this from http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick-226.html#post9337970
![]()
Of course not as tall as this. Same height as original...
What do you think?![]()