AGA-T+ Tank help. :(

[mikkolangot]

I just want to give an update for my first rba build, I got my final readings at 1.4 ohms then I search in google on ohms vs volts vs watts converter because I realize that the Provari has 3.5 amperage limit then I tried to bump it at 1.4ohms @ 4.4 which gives me 3.14 amps, It vapes like a champ, the flavor finally stand out and the vapor production is better than my vivi nova. I'm very happy with it. I want to thank you guys for helping me to build my first successful coil.

 

[Anasazi]

Wrap the wire around a 7/64th drill bit tight.after you get it in the set screws remove drill bit and check resistance before inserting the wick. if ok insert the wick carefully. You can even fire and check for hot spots on lowest voltage setting. insert wick keep off the bottom of tank slightly and trim wick to top of screw

 

[mikkolangot]

Is it normal to have a burned taste sometimes?

 

[hausmouse]

If your doing something wrong sometimes then yes. Maybe not tilting enough or getting a hit spot. Just evaluate what your doing when it happens. If its not user error then take the cap off and fire. See anything? No? Take juice out and fire. If you don't see anything at this point you probably got the first part wrong

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

Yeah if your wick isnt fast enough.

Your wick doesnt need to avoid bottom of tank as long as it is oxidized. Its a big myth.

 

[tonyorion]

I said "it's almost a requirement"; it's just more convenient to use a vv unit which shows resistance. The time factor alone by leaving the rba on your vv to do the test, adjustment, and burn in is worth it. Now, prove to me that the resistance on an RBA is different electrically than the resistance on a regular atty or carto. Your power supply (battery, PWM, buck, etc.) only sees resistance and will perform accordingly. The power supply does not know if you are using an atty, carto, or rba. So how is a battery going to give you better performance than a regulated power supply with an rba?

 

[kuagchun]

That could mean anything though.

 

[Stephenst4470]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html

that thread has all the info you could possibly think of for making it work like a champ. with some practice you can oxidize the wick, wrap the coil, and vape away with no break in period or wicking issues. a metallic taste is either a hotspot (which can form after you fill the tank) or a short with the wick touching the metal top cap or some metal down in the bottom of the tank.

It doesn't matter if the wick touches the top or bottom. If the wick is properly oxidized then the coil is isolated from the wick and no current is passing into it. If the wick is shorting anywhere then the coil is shorted to the wick.

 

[Baditude]

You can use a multimeter for all that. And i used a $14 eGo to set up my AGA.

Besides, what you said just mean that a VAMO type device is necessary to set up an RBA, not run it. It is easily proven that unregulated devices give better performance on an RBA.

I bought a $30 digital multimeter specifically for use in setting up my RBA. Little did I know at the time that my Provari could do everything that the multimeter can. And do more than the multimeter. The multimeter can't find shorts and tell me like the Provari can, and can't do incremental pulse firing to oxidize the coil like the Provari can. I haven't even taken the multimeter out of the box.

And concerning your last statement. Where's your proof? Your statement is more opinion than fact. My AGA is much better on the Provari than on my Silver Bullet, which I had planned using the AGA on to make itself useful again.

 

[Stephenst4470]

Thanks man, Just ordered one. how about the 32 awg? is it good as well?

I've use 28, 30 and 32 all on my Aga's, (and other Genesis). They all work well, it takes a lot of wraps of 28 to get any resistance. I usually use a 9/10 wrap with 28 which can be a pain to get spaced. 32 will heat the fastest, 28 or 30 will give you more wick coverage and more vapor, albeit it will take a little longer to get it up to temp, imo. I always wrap my coils on the wick, it helps to turn the mod as you wrap it instead of the wire, for me anyway. I find the Aga-2 more prone than some other Gennies to top wrap hot spots, these are usually caused by the top wrap being pulled into the wick by tightening the top nut. Try wrapping the top coil counter clockwise if the leg between the center post and the wick keeps glowing and you can't get it worked out.

 

[mikkolangot]

Yeah if your wick isnt fast enough.

Your wick doesnt need to avoid bottom of tank as long as it is oxidized. Its a big myth.

I just realized this also applies the method of tilting when I'm still using vivi novas. My juice level was kinda low maybe 1/4 of the tank then I refilled it and tried again. No more burned taste.

 

[mikkolangot]

I've use 28, 30 and 32 all on my Aga's, (and other Genesis). They all work well, it takes a lot of wraps of 28 to get any resistance. I usually use a 9/10 wrap with 28 which can be a pain to get spaced. 32 will heat the fastest, 28 or 30 will give you more wick coverage and more vapor, albeit it will take a little longer to get it up to temp, imo. I always wrap my coils on the wick, it helps to turn the mod as you wrap it instead of the wire, for me anyway. I find the Aga-2 more prone than some other Gennies to top wrap hot spots, these are usually caused by the top wrap being pulled into the wick by tightening the top nut. Try wrapping the top coil counter clockwise if the leg between the center post and the wick keeps glowing and you can't get it worked out.

Thanks for the info, I will definitely try that out next time. Which is easier to wrap? 30 gauge or 32?

 

[Stephenst4470]

Thanks for the info, I will definitely try that out next time. Which is easier to wrap? 30 gauge or 32?

32 is easier to wrap, but 30 is easier to avoid hot spots and shorts. (less resistance in the wire, easier path for current at any given point on the wick). It helps me to hit the wire with the torch and get it red before I wrap, it takes out some of the "springiness"

 

[mikkolangot]

It helps me to hit the wire with the torch and get it red before I wrap, it takes out some of the "springiness"

I heard from eHuman that he's doing it as well. That made me curious, does it really helps? Most of the tutorials that I've seen doesn't do that.

 

[Stephenst4470]

I heard from eHuman that he's doing it as well. That made me curious, does it really helps? Most of the tutorials that I've seen doesn't do that.

I can just speak for myself, between my wife and I we have about 8 various Genesis atomizers so I wrap quite a few coils, I usually have them worked out within 5 minutes or so, it works really well for me. When I first got into them I was ready to throw them out the window. Just stick with them and give them a shot, with a little practice you'll be a pro in no time. There really is no voodoo to them, just common sense and practice. Unfortunately, there still seems to be a lot of myths that perpetuate the threads like the "it can't touch the bottom" thing. PM me if you need any tips and I will help out where I can.

 

[crisdeguzman]

try using a 32 guage with maybe 5 wraps. thiner wires give you more resistance.
the provari can only fire .9 ohms or higher

 

[mikkolangot]

Hello,

I tried to rebuild my AGA-T yesterday with the 32 awg, and got 2.2 ohms in 6 wraps. I managed to eliminate the hotspot. bumped in 3.4 then 3.6, 3.8, 4.0 volts. but when I put the juice to the tank to fill it, after some fire testing I noticed that the vapor production stopped after 7-10 seconds while firing. And a hot spot on the top coil began to appear again. I tried to bump, poke, fiddle again the coils to get rid of the hot spot but it isn't working. Does the 32 awg makes the problem because it get's hot faster?

 

[Baditude]

... bumped in 3.4 then 3.6, 3.8, 4.0 volts. but when I put the juice to the tank to fill it, after some fire testing I noticed that the vapor production stopped after 7-10 seconds while firing.

Curious to know why you are doing that long of a pulse fire? I only fire until the coil glows for a couple of seconds, and then let off. I do this a few times...should be adequate.

Such a long pulse fire only makes the coil too hot, and possibly make a short in the wire.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

Its not the 32. If it gets hot fast but evenly its still fine.

It sounds to me like you never got rid of hot spots to start with; you just fired it long enough that eventually everything lit up. Also, after you fired your coil, heat expansion happens and sometimes screws come loose. Check your contacts.

You should torch the wick again, the part touching the coil. Roll it tighter too so that coil doesnt pull on it too tightly.

 

[mikkolangot]

Curious to know why you are doing that long of a pulse fire? I only fire until the coil glows for a couple of seconds, and then let off. I do this a few times...should be adequate.

That was I already fill the liquid on the tank. Before I did that, I thought that I was able to get rid of the hot spot.