AGA-T+ Tank help. :(

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cignomo33

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Mar 12, 2013
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Kinda new to this, I got my aga-T2 today and after an hour I had a successful coil and wick. I am getting some harsh tasting vapes. I have the original mesh that it came with (new 400x400 is on its way) I wrapped it around a paper clip so it is hallow. I am at 1.6 Ao checking on a provari using 32 gauge. Is there a break in period? Do I need different fluid? I am using a 20pg 80vg fluid from mount baker. Someone please HELP! lol
 

hausmouse

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Kinda new to this, I got my aga-T2 today and after an hour I had a successful coil and wick. I am getting some harsh tasting vapes. I have the original mesh that it came with (new 400x400 is on its way) I wrapped it around a paper clip so it is hallow. I am at 1.6 Ao checking on a provari using 32 gauge. Is there a break in period? Do I need different fluid? I am using a 20pg 80vg fluid from mount baker. Someone please HELP! lol

Does it taste like metal or just really harsh throat hit?
 

Thompson

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There will be a break in period, most say its right around half a tank.

Using a straw type wick most find that the wicking is improved if you remove the fill screw. Solid wicks (no center channel) seem to wick better and don't require this.

Harshness usually points to a hot spot and/or short. Try lowering the voltage (3.3 is a good start) and pulsing the coils. This will show any hot spots/shorts, and you can adjust the coil accordingly.

Also, and I'm sure you've got this done already, is make sure the air hole is lined up with the wick. Can get massive throat hit if its in the wrong location. Don't forget the genesis tilt to help saturate the wick while vaping.

This thread has more info on the AGA-T types than anybody could ever need haha :p

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html

Check out eHuman's blog posts too for some great info

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/ehuman/
 
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Kanj.nguyen

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Hot spots can be removed by oxidizing wick and applying less tension to the top wrap. It is advisable to wrap your coil around something solid and straight first before inserting your wick, as the wick is soft and the wire may bite into it, resulting in uneven pressure among wraps and thus unequal resistance at different points.
 

cignomo33

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Mar 12, 2013
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Sunland, CA, USA
Hot spots can be removed by oxidizing wick and applying less tension to the top wrap. It is advisable to wrap your coil around something solid and straight first before inserting your wick, as the wick is soft and the wire may bite into it, resulting in uneven pressure among wraps and thus unequal resistance at different points.

ya i used a paper clip and i saw all three of the coils light up evenly.
 

cignomo33

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Mar 12, 2013
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Success!!! I took the wick out, put the paper clip in,put it back in the hole with the paper clip, wrapped the coil 6 times (I like the high ohmage) slid the paper clip out, adjusted the coils, and its half better. I think its the whole being a noob and not a pro like most guys on here. I have to practice at wrapping wicks and making nicer coils. Thanks everyone for your help :toast:
 

Rodderik

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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html

that thread has all the info you could possibly think of for making it work like a champ. with some practice you can oxidize the wick, wrap the coil, and vape away with no break in period or wicking issues. a metallic taste is either a hotspot (which can form after you fill the tank) or a short with the wick touching the metal top cap or some metal down in the bottom of the tank.
 

vintagerider

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Feb 27, 2013
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orangeville on canada
can anyone tell me what the best coil material is? kanthal nichrome guage ribbon? neeed help looking at getting an agat2 but want the best vape possiblejust not sure what wire to use as i already gather that 400 mesh seems to be most preffered to use and i will figure out if i like it plain or oxidized later after all i can do both just dont want to waste a lot of time with wire for coils too many options all help is greatly appreciated
 

tonyorion

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Jun 8, 2010
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I do believe that aga t suits best with mech mods rather than with a vv/vw. IMHO

I would respectfully challenge that statement. Most of the VV PV's out there will give you a resistance reading which will help in setting up your coil. If you are getting a much lower resistance reading than the number of coils you have wound, then you know you have a problem. Also, most will not fire if there is a short and give you an error message. More importantly, you can "fix" a coil with low voltage using the Peter K method for Genesis style wicks (good advice is to start low on a freshly wound coil, regardless of the method or wick type). On a mechanical mod, especially one running at high voltage, an incorrectly wound coil will either pop the coil or pop the safety spring if you are lucky. When I say most VV PV's, there are exceptions like vv ego's, BuzzPro's, etc. with no display. Quite the contrary, a good vv (ProVari, Zmax, Vamo, Lambo 4.0, etc.) device is almost a requirement when setting up RBA's, and will give you resistance, allow you to burn in and fix a coil at low voltage, and will not go into meltdown when you get a short .
 

Kanj.nguyen

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I would respectfully challenge that statement. Most of the VV PV's out there will give you a resistance reading which will help in setting up your coil. If you are getting a much lower resistance reading than the number of coils you have wound, then you know you have a problem. Also, most will not fire if there is a short and give you an error message. More importantly, you can "fix" a coil with low voltage using the Peter K method for Genesis style wicks (good advice is to start low on a freshly wound coil, regardless of the method or wick type). On a mechanical mod, especially one running at high voltage, an incorrectly wound coil will either pop the coil or pop the safety spring if you are lucky. When I say most VV PV's, there are exceptions like vv ego's, BuzzPro's, etc. with no display. Quite the contrary, a good vv (ProVari, Zmax, Vamo, Lambo 4.0, etc.) device is almost a requirement when setting up RBA's, and will give you resistance, allow you to burn in and fix a coil at low voltage, and will not go into meltdown when you get a short .

You can use a multimeter for all that. And i used a $14 eGo to set up my AGA.

Besides, what you said just mean that a VAMO type device is necessary to set up an RBA, not run it. It is easily proven that unregulated devices give better performance on an RBA.
 
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