AGA-T2 rebuildable tank question

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piruned

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I am not really mechanically inclined. For me, getting the hot spots out of a newly built wick and coil was the hardest part. I watched tons and tons of videos. Everyone always rushed through it. They even state how they did that just to get through the video! I really wish they had let it run and showed exactly what they did and more importantly, how long it took. The AGA can be used with silica too. So if SS mesh is an issue for you, silica may be the way to go for you. I didn't. I was stubborn and determined to force it to work.

My first few attempts, I literally spent all night. I'm talking 5pm - 1am. sweat, frustration, and anger tantrums. After those 2 initial all nighters, I set it aside for a few weeks. Read more and more, and watched some more vids and replayed older ones.

What I have come to learn is through actual trial and error.

I think mechanical mods work better. If you do use a variable voltage device, be aware that if it is pulse modulation, every time it pulses it is sending, what, ? 6 volts ? through the coil. Someone with more experience may be able to correct and even respond better on that than myself. Those 6 volts can pop your coil. It seems to me, when using a steady voltage output, like a mechanical mod, keeps the coil in one piece. I hope that makes sense to you.

Also with a mechanical mod, you can wrap a lower ohm coil. Lower ohm can usually mean less coil wraps. Less wraps, less hot spots, less frustration. Again this is my experience. There are a ton of pro's making these things, that can use em and wrap however they want. Unfortunately, I haven't reached that plateau.

Now, once i got my mechanical mod, got my coil to finally be hot spot free, and used the AGA as it was meant to be used; the experience is awesome. The taste seems better, more concentrated. The vapor production, for me, is by far superior to anything else I have used. Throat hit is better. I've heard the nicotine delivery is too. I can't say one way or another if this is so. My 3 pack a day habit shot a lot of nic into me. So I'm pretty used to it.

Another thing I have noticed, is my juice consumption increased. Not sure if this is from using a low ohm coil and it burning faster, or if it is something else. I just know I burn through juice a LOT quicker, in my AGA, than any other device I have.

It's gonna boil down to how much you really want to make it happen. If you have little patience (or even if you don't but hard headed like me) and can suffer through the trials and errors, it is a satisfying vape. The nice thing about the AGA is it's cheap. So if you decide to give up on it, your bank isn't broken.

I say give it a go. Give it 10 go's. No one's advise is going to really decide for you. Only you can do that.
 

mikkolangot

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Thanks for sharing your experience. I have another question What does the other screw post do in the tank? I'll put a picture of it so that you guys can see.

agatv21d.jpg
 

piruned

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Thanks for sharing your experience. I have another question What does the other screw post do in the tank? I'll put a picture of it so that you guys can see.

agatv21d.jpg



That is used to trap the kanthal wire on a silica wick.

If mesh is frustrating you, silica can get you going till you have more experience. It's not a bad place to start either when learning how to wrap a coil.
 

Baditude

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I think mechanical mods work better. If you do use a variable voltage device, be aware that if it is pulse modulation, every time it pulses it is sending, what, ? 6 volts ? through the coil. Someone with more experience may be able to correct and even respond better on that than myself. Those 6 volts can pop your coil. It seems to me, when using a steady voltage output, like a mechanical mod, keeps the coil in one piece. I hope that makes sense to you.

Have you seen the video that Zen did for his ZAP and Provape? He spends quite a bit of time showing how to get rid of hot spots. Also, when you do the pulses, you start out with a very low voltage (3 volts) and gradually work up to 3.7 volts.

I have found my Provari to be invaluable in building my coils and finding unseen shorts. I bought a multimeter especially for my RBA's, and have yet to find a use for it. The Provari accurately reads the ohm of the coil. It works great oxydizing the coil with pulses if you start low voltage and gradually climb higher in voltage. It also "sees" shorts that I can't see by giving me an error code. I then know to tease and prod the coils as Zen does in the below video. When the Provari is satisfied, the AGA is ready.

I built a 2.0 ohm coil. It works great on both the Silver Bullet (mechanical) and the Provari. It's the closest I have come to a regular cigarette in all the time I have been vaping, and people who know me know how much I love my cartotanks.

Now, it took 3 coils and 2 wicks to finally find my sweet spot on a RBA, but now "I get it".

 
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piruned

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Have you seen the video that Zen did for his ZAP and Provape? He spends quite a bit of time showing how to get rid of hot spots. Also, when you do the pulses, you start out with a very low voltage (3 volts) and gradually work up to 3.7 volts.

I was under the impression, with pulse modulation, that it fires 6v. The way it keeps your voltage set to say, 3.7, is it fires that 6v pulse in lower modulations. So it is doing a 30% on 70% off type of cycle.. Is that not what the "duty cycle" is? I may be totally off base here.

Once I went mechanical I was able to get what I wanted. One day I will get around to messing with it on a VV again. However, doing so, I won't be able to show off my Adam. Soooo I am in no rush ;)

IMAG0505.jpg

Thanks for the video. I had not seen that one. Zen makes it look so freakin easy. Trial and error was the only way for me.

edit::

Btw the Provari has a flat signal, not pulse waves. It is pusle modulated, but has some circuitry that produces a flat signal. Again, I may be off base, but this is what I have read.
 
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piruned

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Wire I use 28g kanthal. 400 ss mesh. My coil is a wrapped 4 times at 1.6ohm.

Reading along the forums, I seen someone say that 325 mesh is better for thicker liquids. The fabric is a bit looser, which allows the liquids that are heavy to wick better. I don't have any experience with that though. I got a bunch of 400 to use up first. It's played well with my Boba's Bounty, which is the thickest liquid I've got. Dunno really if there is anything thicker, as it is 100% vg. So far so good.
 

Baditude

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what wire gauge and # of mesh do you recommend?

I'll make no recommendations, as I'm still a student of these things. I'll tell you what I use, which is the "middle ground" of what others are using. I'm using 30 g wire and 500 g stainless steel mesh. The 2.0 ohm coil has 6 loops of wire around the mesh wick.

It's true that the Provari has a flat signal, different from most other variable voltage mods.

RBA-wick&coils.jpg

The above pic IS NOT of my AGA; this was uploaded from Google Images. What is shown is a dual coil RBA. I only present this to show those people who are not familiar with rebuildables to see what a DIY wire coil and mesh wick look like when finished.
 
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Baditude

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If wanted to get a 2.4ish ohms, I guess that would be like 6-7 wraps?

It's weird, when I first wrapped my current coil, it ohmed out at 2.5 but still was showing some error codes. After prodding and teasing the loops while hot, the ohms dropped to 2.0 and stayed there when the Provari showed no more error codes.

But yeah, probably an additional one or two more loops would increase the ohm resistance to 2.4ish.
 

piruned

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If wanted to get a 2.4ish ohms, I guess that would be like 6-7 wraps?

I think the wire gauge and length, would have more to do with the resistance than the wraps. I had a 6 wrap once that was 1.2 ohm. I too, am still learning these things, and haven't reached the point where I can wrap a coil to my exact specifications. Maybe one day, but not today. Heh
 
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