Airflow - to adjust or not to adjust... that's the question

[RuiG]

You apparently use juices that are within the range of viscosity for the design parameters of the atomizers you buy.

Adjustable airflow is all about matching the draw intensity to the viscosity of the juice you use. Thin juices feed and wick faster than thick juices so either the atomizer is optimized for specific juice types or it's adjustable to compensate.

MTL or DTL may need different atomizer designs to wick efficiently. Adjustable air flow increases the range of juices that can be used.

I have been vaping for long and that creates a habit. I still like to try out new gear but in the end I always go back to the ones that are just right out of the box.

For me, the internal "air flow" is far more important than where the external "ring" is set.
As noted, it's usually set it and forget it.

Cheers
I

You got my point 100% on you message. For me atomizers could be made without adjustment ring.

when I started with RTAs I wanted to drill holes in the airflow to get more air
Eventually found some perfect for me, with the airflow wide open.

RDAs it depends on the atty. Some I vape wide open and some with a smidge of airflow closed.

But regardless, I set and forget

My opinion is the same. Find atomisers that I love with airflow wide open. Avoid adjusting if possible.

I'm sorry... didn't read the rest of the thread... you like loose airflow (I get that) but didn't try adjusting the airflow (???)
You asked but haven't tried adjusting different airflow... am I missing something?
My (overall) opinion on airflow is first (what do you prefer) and second (what does your coil prefer) Really depends on your vaping style (chain vaping or a brief pause between vapes)

I adjust everything in the build to wide open airflow on the atomizer. I like a tightness to my direct lung. If you see my daily rotation, even if they are different products, the draw is very similar on all of them. For me if atomizers came with no airflow ring it would not be a major concern.

BTW: This is the first I've heard/read "RSA". Had to google it to see what it meant. I only ever saw them referred to as a BF RDA until now.

Yes, I was confused too. Most RDAs nowadays are more RSAs if that is a thing to say (Rebuildable Squonking Atomizer).

 

[vaper1960]

Adjusting airflow on a tank with an AFC ring takes all of 0.002 seconds.

Actually (and ironic) I have two RTAs that you can't adjust airflow without it unscrewing the tank form the mod. Very annoying!

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Actually (and ironic) I have two RTAs that you can't adjust airflow without it unscrewing the tank form the mod. Very annoying!

That does sound annoying. I don't think I ever had a tank like that.

One upside I can see to that is that the AFC is locked when it's screwed on the tank so you can't accidentally move it.

BTW: What RTAs are those?

 

[vaper1960]

One upside I can see to that is that the AFC is locked when it's screwed on the tank so you can't accidentally move it.

That is true (and great while using it) but I like to close the airflow overnight and can't (that's when they tend to leak) Even if I remove it from the mod, still can't close the airflow on one of them.

 

[stols001]

Wick better . I don't even turn off the airflow when I rewick an RTA. I mean, if it's gonna leak o me I would prefer to know sooner rather than later. But I don't leak as it happens. Also (Apart from my Kabuki vapes which plain Do Not Leak ever, well I only use the zenith and I only close off airflows now when they surf in my handbag inside a zip lock bag.
Anna

 

[mimöschen]

On a new topper I set it where I like, and never change.

Just that.
And I don't close the airflow when I need to refill my RTAs as well.

 

[DavidOck]

Although, if so equipped, it's usually a good idea to close the juice flow.

 

[Brewdawg1181]

That does sound annoying. I don't think I ever had a tank like that.

One upside I can see to that is that the AFC is locked when it's screwed on the tank so you can't accidentally move it.

BTW: What RTAs are those?

Just noticed it doesn't look like you were ever answered, @UncleJunkle . I know the KM3, Prime, and K5 you had to remove the tank. KM3 had an internal grub screw, and Prime/K5 had a rotating plate on the bottom that made you remove- or at least partially unscrew the tank. Maybe even KFL2, I can't remember- could be the af screw was accessible on the outside of the tank on that one. But even the new KFL19 has an internal grub screw.

Surprised you never had a Kayfun in all these years?

 

[DavidOck]

Adjustable airflow is all about matching the draw intensity to the viscosity of the juice you use. Thin juices feed and wick faster than thick juices so either the atomizer is optimized for specific juice types or it's adjustable to compensate.

AND about power settings. The higher the power the more air you need, unless you like boiling hot vapor!

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

AND about power settings. The higher the power the more air you need, unless you like boiling hot vapor!

That depends I guess. When I increase my wattage, I have to decrease the airflow in order to get more juice flow to avoid a dry hit.

 

[dripster]

If it's too restricted for the amount of vapor production that it gives, then logically it tastes burnt... whereas, if the airflow doesn't have enough restrictiveness going on, then the incoming jet of air isn't focussed at the coil, i.e. a lot of air gets dispersed more widely, where it encounters just the empty space. Typically the latter will result in diluted vapor production, and, whether or not you like it that way is entirely up to you to decide, although personally, I, find that an airy vape simply leaves a lot to be desired in the flavor department, albeit restrictiveness is determined not just by the airflow setting or the (combined) size(s) of the air hole(s), but also by the strength of your draw, as a faster draw also causes more friction due to greater air speed─and so these factors tend to work in tandem.

Here's a pic of my Asgard Mini with the separately sold ultem cap on it. The build I have in there are quad-core 26g Nichrome 80 dual coil aliens at 4 wraps, 3mm inner diameter, which is a .08 ohms build (on a tube mech using a single Samsung 30T battery) so, "normally", this would qualify as an "insanely hot" vape (and downright "dangerous" to the point of going to "blow my face off", I digress........), but in this particular setup, it actually is not.

 

[dripster]

{snip}
...
I have come across atomizers with non-adjustable airflow like the Kennedy RDA. But with the Kennedy I think it's down to maximum vapor production in the context of cloud-chasing. Maximum ALL the things!
...
{snip}

The 2-post Kennedy 25 can be summarized with just five easy words... a flavor chaser's wet dream.

 

[DaveP]

Just noticed it doesn't look like you were ever answered, @UncleJunkle . I know the KM3, Prime, and K5 you had to remove the tank. KM3 had an internal grub screw, and Prime/K5 had a rotating plate on the bottom that made you remove- or at least partially unscrew the tank. Maybe even KFL2, I can't remember- could be the af screw was accessible on the outside of the tank on that one. But even the new KFL19 has an internal grub screw.

Surprised you never had a Kayfun in all these years?

I've bought and tried most every MTL tank that was praised in a forum. I still have them and sometimes juice one up to see if I like it better now than I did when it was new.

I'm still vaping the EHPro Kayfun Lite v2 that started me off on rebuildables. They work for me and provide the draw I like.

Staying on topic, the air flow screws are on the bottom of the Kayfun Lite v2 coil deck. I usually keep them flush with the deck unless a juice requires more vacuum to feed the juice.

 

[PeterKay]

If it's too restricted for the amount of vapor production that it gives, then logically it tastes burnt... whereas, if the airflow doesn't have enough restrictiveness going on, then the incoming jet of air isn't focussed at the coil, i.e. a lot of air gets dispersed more widely, where it encounters just the empty space. Typically the latter will result in diluted vapor production, and, whether or not you like it that way is entirely up to you to decide, although personally, I, find that an airy vape simply leaves a lot to be desired in the flavor department, albeit restrictiveness is determined not just by the airflow setting or the (combined) size(s) of the air hole(s), but also by the strength of your draw, as a faster draw also causes more friction due to greater air speed─and so these factors tend to work in tandem.

Here's a pic of my Asgard Mini with the separately sold ultem cap on it. The build I have in there are quad-core 26g Nichrome 80 dual coil aliens at 4 wraps, 3mm inner diameter, which is a .08 ohms build (on a tube mech using a single Samsung 30T battery) so, "normally", this would qualify as an "insanely hot" vape (and downright "dangerous" to the point of going to "blow my face off", I digress........), but in this particular setup, it actually is not.

View attachment 888865
View attachment 888869

Need a little advice.
I don't want to make my own wires, I don't really have much time or motivation for it. So I'll leave it to pro's. I figured the best option for me would be to buy pre-made wire in 10 and 20ft spools and wrap my own coils.
The problem I have- I'm a bit overwhelmed by the variety of types of wire available. Alien, clapton, fused clapton, juggernaut, braided, staircase, framed staple clapton etc etc. So many. Been trying to buy some 2 days ago, ended up getting 20ft of Juggernaut wire from Wotofo, the specs:
"Juggernaut

• ○ Material: Ni80
• ○ Inner Core: (26g+36g)x2
• ○ Outer Wire: 0.1mmx0.4mm"

Are there any types of wire that you would personally recommend? Do you think the wire I bought is any good?

Also: I recently bought Occula RDA that I haven't tested yet:
Augvape Occula RDA Review - A Twisted Messes Project | Ecigclick

I'm going to squonk it with Steam Crave Hadron mod, so I can go pretty high in terms of wattage with twin 21700 (using twin molicel p42A). I went down on my nic as well since the last time when I was talking about nic strength (not sure if you remember) so I'm quite happy to vape 3mg. I use 3 types of juices now (70/30, 75/25,and 80/20). All with added 5% distilled H2O so they wick well. The wick I will use is Canna Cotton (80% cotton, 20% hemp), I tried it earlier today and was really pleased with the way it tasted (or rather the way it didn't taste)
What build would you recommend to get the best out of it? What kind of wire pattern for best flavor?
Thanks