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Yeah it does appear plated. Someone on the fasttech boards showed a photo of theirs and it wasn't brass colored underneath the deck. It was a duller silver color.
Oh, by the way, I did fully disassemble the thing and it is a true hybrid. The portion where the atomizer is attached to the tube is press fit, and it may be glued or some such because I couldn't budge it. I did see the markings on the inside of the tube to grip it though, same as any other conventional press fit thingamajig. Mine sits ever so slightly cockeyed. Barely noticeable, but it bothered me enough to break it down as much as possible, even removing the positive pin entirely. Decent insulator to it, but I might wrap the thing in Teflon tape just because there really isn't much clearance there, don't want it to take a gnarly fall, go to hit the switch and have it hard short on me. And yeah, for the iAtty, from the pictures it's structurally identical, but definitely not made of aluminum at that weight, which is what I assume the whole chybrid is made of.
Funny you mention your dis-assembly. I had to do the same, only because I snapped the ceramic wick. Just broke of and was sitting in the bottom of the tank. Getting that out required taking apart the entire center pin assembly. Took me a while to remember how to fit all that back together, especially the little clear grommet that the center pin sits in.
But it's all back together now, and I'm sticking with SS wicks with hollow ekowool socks on the top for now. I got to know the I-Chybrid inside and out though. Yep, pretty sure it's all aluminum, but it seems to be well-machined/glued together. I didn't see any glaring issues, at least, not to my TOTALLY UNTRAINED eyes.
But it's all back together now, and I'm sticking with SS wicks with hollow ekowool socks on the top for now. I got to know the I-Chybrid inside and out though. Yep, pretty sure it's all aluminum, but it seems to be well-machined/glued together. I didn't see any glaring issues, at least, not to my TOTALLY UNTRAINED eyes.
The general consensus seems to be that the atty that sits on the top of this hybrid clone wicks better with the fill-hole screw left out.
Correct?
I'm asking because I want to have a good reason when I lose that little SOB.
Speaking of which.....what's the best way/place to get replacement bits and pieces for this thing?
I'm sure I'm gonna lose SOMEthing that is essential to its function sooner or later.
Correct?
I'm asking because I want to have a good reason when I lose that little SOB.
Speaking of which.....what's the best way/place to get replacement bits and pieces for this thing?
I'm sure I'm gonna lose SOMEthing that is essential to its function sooner or later.
The general consensus seems to be that the atty that sits on the top of this hybrid clone wicks better with the fill-hole screw left out.
Correct?
I'm asking because I want to have a good reason when I lose that little SOB.
Speaking of which.....what's the best way/place to get replacement bits and pieces for this thing?
I'm sure I'm gonna lose SOMEthing that is essential to its function sooner or later.
Some people use the carto plug that comes in a new carto in the rsst, maybe that would work here too. However I didn't even see a fill screw in the device photos. Also I think any genny wicks better with the fill screw out. It's true for all my gennies- my dud, chobra, AGA-t2, agt, and iAtty. But maybe it's just the way I build them.
Also, some of the parts can be found at hardware stores or at amazon/eBay. You just gotta know the size. M3 is 3mm for example.
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Derp! Didn't think about those useless (until now) little rubber nubs that come with cartomizers. I wonder if I've got any of those
floating around....
Thanks for the information on the measurements too. Had no idea that 3M meant 3mm. Another "derp" moment from me!
Hey I'm full of 'em.
floating around....
Thanks for the information on the measurements too. Had no idea that 3M meant 3mm. Another "derp" moment from me!
Hey I'm full of 'em.
You can probably use the insulators that the DID clone, the AGA-T2 or T+, and the RSST use. I saw a post a long time ago about where to get them on ebay. But they sold them by the hundreds and I think they were ceramic.
I leave out the fill screw as it helps keep the wick wicking.
I leave out the fill screw as it helps keep the wick wicking.
I decided to go ahead and give the SS rope/wire a try. With an ekowool hat.
Seems to be working just fine! I'm leaving the screw out of the fill hole. I haven't had to tilt but when
I tried it (with a nearly full tank) it didn't leak, even at a nearly horizontal angle.
Again, 28 gauge kanthal, about 1.3Ohm.
Seems to be working just fine! I'm leaving the screw out of the fill hole. I haven't had to tilt but when
I tried it (with a nearly full tank) it didn't leak, even at a nearly horizontal angle.
Again, 28 gauge kanthal, about 1.3Ohm.
Looking at my horrible ugly coil spacing....if I didn't have the ekowool on there, I would very likely have a hard short, wouldn't I? Because I'm pretty sure that bottom coil would be touching the deck before it makes that hard angle up to the middle coil. I have the hardest time getting those buggers spaced properly.
So the ekowool is savin' my bacon. Right?
So the ekowool is savin' my bacon. Right?
You'd be surprised what that bottom coil can handle. It hardly ever becomes a problem. Never gathers gunk.
The biggest thing to look for when poking coils is uneven tension between coils. If you can notice one coil strangling wick and one coil kinda loose, You gotta create equilibrium. Generally, prod the wrap that's not glowing when first preparing your wick, juiceless of course. You'll get it right without eko, if that's what you want.
Thanks Kemosabe! (you DO realize that I hear the old tyme Lone Ranger radio guy Tonto voice when probably everyone says that, don'cha.)
Anyway, I'm not sure what I want, lol. Basically I get jealous of how nice and symmetrical everyone else's non-ekowool coils look. I'm pretty dang happy with the effect and flavor I'm getting having the ekowool sock at the top of the wick. It also seems to sorta "idiot proof" my sloppy coils. I've started wrapping my coils "free hand", totally off the device (as opposed to starting with the wick IN the tank) and while I'm getting better, I'm not satisfied with the look. But, I'm never satisfied.
Everything wicks great (SS mesh and SS rope anyway, phooey on ceramic) and tastes great so I SHOULD quit while I'm ahead. But I'm not good at that either.
Anyway, I'm not sure what I want, lol. Basically I get jealous of how nice and symmetrical everyone else's non-ekowool coils look. I'm pretty dang happy with the effect and flavor I'm getting having the ekowool sock at the top of the wick. It also seems to sorta "idiot proof" my sloppy coils. I've started wrapping my coils "free hand", totally off the device (as opposed to starting with the wick IN the tank) and while I'm getting better, I'm not satisfied with the look. But, I'm never satisfied.
Everything wicks great (SS mesh and SS rope anyway, phooey on ceramic) and tastes great so I SHOULD quit while I'm ahead. But I'm not good at that either.
Sorry for the n00b question but how do I adjust the center pin to make better contact with the battery?
First rba style mod ever and having to mash the switch all the way in Then some is frustrating a bit.
First rba style mod ever and having to mash the switch all the way in Then some is frustrating a bit.
Try pushing the positive post down. Take the cap off and then push it downwards. Hopefully this helps.
Here is a video of the issue I am facing. Every time I go to fire it the battery pushes up into the center pin leaving me to have to remove the top cap and push it back down every time I want to use it again. Coil shifts then it doesnt want to burn the same at all. Battery is a Efest flat top 18350 IMR
I wish I had something helpful to suggest. I'm not having that problem. All I can think of is maybe try disassembling everything and put it all back together. Sorta like how sometimes just rebooting a computer can solve a weird issue.
Mainly I just wanted you to know that there ARE people looking at your issue. I know how it feels when you've got a problem and it seems like you're being ignored. That's all. Someone with WAY more knowledge than me is bound to have better ideas than mine.
Mainly I just wanted you to know that there ARE people looking at your issue. I know how it feels when you've got a problem and it seems like you're being ignored. That's all. Someone with WAY more knowledge than me is bound to have better ideas than mine.
Maybe try replacing the bushing/insulator on the bottom of the positive pin that goes inside the tube. I think you could use one from a DID clone or RSST or maybe even an AGA-T+. Just a thought. If the one from the RSST would be best as it is solid plastic. But that is if it will fit. My thinking is that maybe one of the above atomizer insulators would work better at keeping the pin from moving upwards when you push the button.
These might also work.
http://www.kidneypuncher.com/aga-series-positive-post-insulators-10-pack/
You can also get these from eBay. These links were posted in the Has anyone tried the AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank thread. They are selling 100 of them for $2.88 shipped. That is way more than one person needs, but for that price it is worth it. These might fit. I haven't pulled out the insulators yet to measure them. They will also work in the AGA-T+ or T2 and the RSST.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-Insulating-Tablets-Insulation-Bushing-TO-220-/180962114443?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a222ebb8b
You can also get 1000 of them for $5.49.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Insulating-Tablets-Insulation-Bushing-TO-220-1000-Pcs-/290693813675?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item43aeb395ab
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The part under the pos pin top screw- try to screw it down more. I think that part on yours isn't screwed down all the way.
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