And it's time, DUN DUN DUNNNNN! lol

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BigCloudz

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Hey fellas (and Ladies? :p) I am pretty new to the mech/RBA/rda scene, but have done COUNTLESS hours of homework and research. I bought my first mech (SmokTech Magneto) and rda (igo-w) about 2 weeks ago. I have had the guys at the shop build them for me for a couple reasons, the biggest being I didn't have any wick or wire lol.

However, I got some mail. As of right now this is what I have:

6' 3mm Ekowool
24' .5mm ribbon wire (A-1 Kanthal)-- I had read a ton of good stuff on this so this so I bought it, lol. Gonna buy more variety of wire here soon.
2' of 28g Kanthal
2' of 30g Kanthal
A propane torch
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
A fine pick (something I ground down here at the shop to act as a dentist type pick to help maneuver my coil when wrapped)
Tweezers


I am pretty sure that's all I need, I try to be very thorough with everything I do.

With that being said, what would be the best 'starter' build for me? Something that isn't too tricked out, but still produces. The guys at the shop have been building me some beastly .3 and .5 ohm builds and I have loved them. I have (2) AW IMR18650's and use my SVD to check the resistance daily.

I am open to any and all, but would kind of prefer a build using the .5 ribbon as that's what I have the most of. If you guys are against the ribbon, please suggest your favorite G wire (28, 30 etc) and I will order a few spools of those from Temco here in the next day or so.

Thank you guys so much and happy vaping!
 

onestepaway

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I build my own coils on an igo-w
Found this video for you, might help out slightly.
As far as needing things, invest in a multimeter. They always help in the long run.
Check and double check your resistance's don't want any exploding mods :')
Hotspots wise, you should be able to find some good info on correcting those here at ECF.

Edit; ekowool wise, you'll want to torch it, strengthens it & keeps it from fraying when you push it through your coil.

More experienced vapers, correct me if I'm wrong but otherwise.
Happy to help
Richard :vapor:
 
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BigCloudz

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I build my own coils on an igo-w
Found this video for you, might help out slightly.
As far as needing things, invest in a multimeter. They always help in the long run.
Check and double check your resistance's don't want any exploding mods :')
Hotspots wise, you should be able to find some good info on correcting those here at ECF.

Edit; ekowool wise, you'll want to torch it, strengthens it & keeps it from fraying when you push it through your coil.

More experienced vapers, correct me if I'm wrong but otherwise.
Happy to help
Richard :vapor:

Thanks bro! I actually do have a multimeter, I just am not sure hwo to use it. It's a Cen-Tech Digital Multimeter. It's actually here at my shop, but I have never used it. I have never been the 'electrical' kinda guy. F getting zapped (which I have done a few times working with the type of CNC EDM's i operate lol)
 

onestepaway

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No problem man
& well there's most likely tutorials on youtube

Guessing it's something along the lines of this (similar settings ?)
cen tech .jpg





For checking your 18650 battery voltages (sure you can do it on other electrical mods like the vamo)
but set it to DCV 20 for that.
Connect the red probe to the 2nd port and black probe to the bottom port on the meter.
Red to positive black to negative on the battery.

Erm, to measure the ohms of your atomizers. Probes in the same ports and set it to 2000 on the ohm's portion.
Red probe goes to the centre pin of your atty and the black one to the outer shell.

Had to type this out quickly so I hope it kinda helps.

Richard :vapor:
 
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BigCloudz

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No problem man
& well there's most likely tutorials on youtube

Guessing it's something along the lines of this (similar settings ?)
View attachment 247146





For checking your 18650 battery voltages (sure you can do it on other electrical mods like the vamo)
but set it to DCV 20 for that.
Connect the red probe to the 2nd port and black probe to the bottom port on the meter.
Red to positive black to negative on the battery.

Erm, to measure the ohms of your atomizers. Probes in the same ports and set it to 2000 on the ohm's portion.
Red probe goes to the centre pin of your atty and the black one to the outer shell.

Had to type this out quickly so I hope it kinda helps.

Richard :vapor:


That's the exact one. I am busy at work, but i'll tinker with it later. Thanks again bro
 

BigCloudz

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Ok brought the multimeter home. Bought a nice new big ol' Bernzomatic propane torch, sitting down getting ready to give this thing a go. I have enough wick and wire to mess up quite a bit before getting it right lol. I even found a 1/16" drill bit in my garage. I am leaning towards a micro coil. Anyone know how the .5mm ribbon works on a micro? Or if it does?
 

kinkolinko

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Ok brought the multimeter home. Bought a nice new big ol' Bernzomatic propane torch, sitting down getting ready to give this thing a go. I have enough wick and wire to mess up quite a bit before getting it right lol. I even found a 1/16" drill bit in my garage. I am leaning towards a micro coil. Anyone know how the .5mm ribbon works on a micro? Or if it does?

If you are chasing clouds . . . you are probably going to want a bigger drill bit. For the IgoW I'd just gradually go bigger until you find the kind of draw you're looking for (without going so big that the deck of the atty is showing).

As far as microcoils go, I would stick with the 28G for that. The reason for the microcoils is to get the same flavor/TH that super low resistances give you, but at a more battery freindly level. By using the 28g, you are starting with a lower resistance wire and just adding more wraps to give you more surface contact and resistance.

The .5 ribbon kanthal you have is going to equate to about a 30g regular kanthal if i remember correctly. I haven't tried microcoiling with ribbon (or i have meaning that they are close together but not overlapping), but the problem I see happening is you can't get that many wraps on the wick without going wider than the spacing of your posts.

IMO microcoils deliver a kind of *bleh* vape experience. Good amount of vapor and flavor, but I don't get much of a TH. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong! ;P Much rather have the sensation of a good 4/3 wrap 28g at .4 ohms.

As with all vaping (sub-ohm or not), make sure to use good quality batteries that will handle the current draw your build will be putting on it. AW's, MNKE, Sonys

Happy Vaping!
 

BigCloudz

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If you are chasing clouds . . . you are probably going to want a bigger drill bit. For the IgoW I'd just gradually go bigger until you find the kind of draw you're looking for (without going so big that the deck of the atty is showing).

As far as microcoils go, I would stick with the 28G for that. The reason for the microcoils is to get the same flavor/TH that super low resistances give you, but at a more battery freindly level. By using the 28g, you are starting with a lower resistance wire and just adding more wraps to give you more surface contact and resistance.

The .5 ribbon kanthal you have is going to equate to about a 30g regular kanthal if i remember correctly. I haven't tried microcoiling with ribbon (or i have meaning that they are close together but not overlapping), but the problem I see happening is you can't get that many wraps on the wick without going wider than the spacing of your posts.

IMO microcoils deliver a kind of *bleh* vape experience. Good amount of vapor and flavor, but I don't get much of a TH. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong! ;P Much rather have the sensation of a good 4/3 wrap 28g at .4 ohms.

As with all vaping (sub-ohm or not), make sure to use good quality batteries that will handle the current draw your build will be putting on it. AW's, MNKE, Sonys

Happy Vaping!


Thank you very much!

I actually followed the vid that was provided above. I THINK I did the same amount of wraps (lol) but I was using 28g, not his 30g and it came out to .9ohms. All 4 coils lit up nice and even and the vape is surprising really good! Kind of surprised myself! lol

All I have is AW's. I have 2 18650's and just bought 2 18450's (which I love in my magneto, way more sleek).

I do have a question though. What would I need to look/listen for if there was a problem that could result in some trouble? I know lower ohms can be dangerous, but what exactly would I have to do wrong to cause danger?

When I hit the fire button, it doesn't fire immediately. By the second fire it normally starts to get going pretty good, but this could be lack of battery charge or simply the device being that it is not some fancy mod. When it does fire I do hear some crackling and slight popping, but looks to be more like the juice is just smack cracklin' and poppin'. It may have been like that in the past when the guys have built me stuff, but I am just being extremely observant/safe for now...

Thank you!
 
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kinkolinko

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Thank you very much!

I actually followed the vid that was provided above. I THINK I did the same amount of wraps (lol) but I was using 28g, not his 30g and it came out to .9ohms. All 4 coils lit up nice and even and the vape is surprising really good! Kind of surprised myself! lol

All I have is AW's. I have 2 18650's and just bought 2 18450's (which I love in my magneto, way more sleek).

I do have a question though. What would I need to look/listen for if there was a problem that could result in some trouble? I know lower ohms can be dangerous, but what exactly would I have to do wrong to cause danger?

When I hit the fire button, it doesn't fire immediately. By the second fire it normally starts to get going pretty good, but this could be lack of battery charge or simply the device being that it is not some fancy mod. When it does fire I do hear some crackling and slight popping, but looks to be more like the juice is just smack cracklin' and poppin'. It may have been like that in the past when the guys have built me stuff, but I am just being extremely observant/safe for now...

Thank you!

Your welcome!

I like the look of 18490 mode as well. I just make sure that when I'm really down in sub-ohm territory (<.35ohms), I switch over to an 18650 (preferably my sony w/ 30 amp continuous discharge). This is because the AW 18490s have a C rating of 8.

[8(C rating) x 1100 (mah capacity)] = 8.8 max continuous discharge current (let's just say 9)

Assuming a battery is fresh off the charger @4.2V and a .35ohm load, we would be pulling 4.2/.35= 12amps! THe batteries still have a "burst" limit. I'm thinking 3 amps over isn't going to be dangerous for short drags (but battery longevity will probably suffer). That being said we can still add in the internal resistance of the mod (say about .05ohms) which would bring us to 10.5amps (4.2/.4=10.5).

MAke sure that when you build your coils, you check every time that you haven't messed up and made one with a hard short (resistance of zero). Use your multimeter that you picked up or a VV device with ohm checker.

Nothing really that you can look or listen for as far as battery trouble goes, but if you feel your battery getting very hot. Stop vaping with it immediately ( take it out of your mod if possible) and set it somewhere that it will not cause fire. Check on it in a little while. If it hasn't gotten any hotter and has cooled down, you're probably okay.

As far as the spitting, snap, crackle and pop ;P . . . it's normal. Just a nice angry coil!

.9 is what I shoot for when microcoiling the 28g so that dual coils will come out to around .45ohms. It's normal for the microcoils to take a little longer to heat up so that's why you get that delay on the first vape. Once they are heated up, the coils should heat up much quicker!
 

kinkolinko

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Also another quick question. After I slide the wire through the holes on the post, how many (if any) times should I wrap the left over tail around the post before I cut if off then tighten down the screws?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions..

If this is on an igoW . . . no need to wrap the excess wire around the post. Just go ahead and tighten down then snip it. Make sure that the wire from the middle post is not touching anything else like one of the wires from the outside negative posts or the deck of the atty.
 

BigCloudz

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Your welcome!

I like the look of 18490 mode as well. I just make sure that when I'm really down in sub-ohm territory (<.35ohms), I switch over to an 18650 (preferably my sony w/ 30 amp continuous discharge). This is because the AW 18490s have a C rating of 8.

[8(C rating) x 1100 (mah capacity)] = 8.8 max continuous discharge current (let's just say 9)

Assuming a battery is fresh off the charger @4.2V and a .35ohm load, we would be pulling 4.2/.35= 12amps! THe batteries still have a "burst" limit. I'm thinking 3 amps over isn't going to be dangerous for short drags (but battery longevity will probably suffer). That being said we can still add in the internal resistance of the mod (say about .05ohms) which would bring us to 10.5amps (4.2/.4=10.5).

MAke sure that when you build your coils, you check every time that you haven't messed up and made one with a hard short (resistance of zero). Use your multimeter that you picked up or a VV device with ohm checker.

Nothing really that you can look or listen for as far as battery trouble goes, but if you feel your battery getting very hot. Stop vaping with it immediately ( take it out of your mod if possible) and set it somewhere that it will not cause fire. Check on it in a little while. If it hasn't gotten any hotter and has cooled down, you're probably okay.

As far as the spitting, snap, crackle and pop ;P . . . it's normal. Just a nice angry coil!

.9 is what I shoot for when microcoiling the 28g so that dual coils will come out to around .45ohms. It's normal for the microcoils to take a little longer to heat up so that's why you get that delay on the first vape. Once they are heated up, the coils should heat up much quicker!


Awesome info! So from my understanding, the coils can obviously be in contact with the posts, but are not to touch the bottom (pan, plate etc) of the atty, right?

Otherwise just make sure I never have a 0 resistance, and if I get below .5-.6 ohms, make sure to use my 18650's. I have heard of those sonys and would love to grab a couple just to be extra safe.

Thank you! You have been a LOT of help! :)
 

BigCloudz

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If this is on an igoW . . . no need to wrap the excess wire around the post. Just go ahead and tighten down then snip it. Make sure that the wire from the middle post is not touching anything else like one of the wires from the outside negative posts or the deck of the atty.

Oh cool, even better. -- Yea I will just cut off the left over tail's on the negative (as well as positive) posts to prevent any issues. I just wanted to make sure the coil as a whole was ok to touch the post, bc it's kinda hard to avoid that as I pulled the coil pretty tight (not REALLY tight, but snug), towards the post when I tightened down the wire.
 

kinkolinko

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Oh cool, even better. -- Yea I will just cut off the left over tail's on the negative (as well as positive) posts to prevent any issues. I just wanted to make sure the coil as a whole was ok to touch the post, bc it's kinda hard to avoid that as I pulled the coil pretty tight (not REALLY tight, but snug), towards the post when I tightened down the wire.

Try to not have the "inside" part of the coil (the 3 in the 4/3 wrap) touch the posts. Have them close as possible without touching. IF they touch, you will either have hotspots or the outer most part of coil won't light up.
 

super_X_drifter

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IMO microcoils deliver a kind of *bleh* vape experience. Good amount of vapor and flavor, but I don't get much of a TH. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong! ;P Much rather have the sensation of a good 4/3 wrap 28g at .4 ohms.

As with all vaping (sub-ohm or not), make sure to use good quality batteries that will handle the current draw your build will be putting on it. AW's, MNKE, Sonys

Happy Vaping!

Kinko, TH (I learned from pdib) is relative to your coil relationship to your airhole. If its lower than the airhole, the TH will be low. If you raise the coil so more air gets under the coil, the TH will increase. Additionally, you want your coil away from the posts, closer to the air source and air source centered (or as close to center as possible) on the coil mass horizontally. :)
 

super_X_drifter

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Oh cool, even better. -- Yea I will just cut off the left over tail's on the negative (as well as positive) posts to prevent any issues. I just wanted to make sure the coil as a whole was ok to touch the post, bc it's kinda hard to avoid that as I pulled the coil pretty tight (not REALLY tight, but snug), towards the post when I tightened down the wire.

Bro, your setup will perform MUCH better if the coil is away from the posts, close to the air source. Just make sure that its not so close to the rim that it will contact the rim or cap. Make sure your airhole is centered on the coil mass horizontally. If you want more TH, raise the coil above the airhole some and lower it if you want less TH.

The only metal to metal contact that won't result in a short is the coil LEGS contacting their respective posts. Any other metal to metal contact will result in a short :) keeping your coil away from the posts and close to the air source is where it's at :)
 

BigCloudz

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Bro, your setup will perform MUCH better if the coil is away from the posts, close to the air source. Just make sure that its not so close to the rim that it will contact the rim or cap. Make sure your airhole is centered on the coil mass horizontally. If you want more TH, raise the coil above the airhole some and lower it if you want less TH.

The only metal to metal contact that won't result in a short is the coil LEGS contacting their respective posts. Any other metal to metal contact will result in a short :) keeping your coil away from the posts and close to the air source is where it's at :)

Awesome! thank you very much, I am getting ready to try a dual coil right now for the first time. Thanks again man, very helpful!
 

BigCloudz

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My first shot at a dual coil "roller coaster" build. Used my .5mm ribbon with m ekowool. This was literally my very first shot, did it in about 7 minutes and was PLEASNATLY surprised! Came out to .5ohms and hits wonderfully! Very excited that I am gettin this building thing down. Any suggestions from what you guys see? Thanks!!


null_zps313c2fb2.jpg


null_zpsbd7edf0d.jpg


null_zps90c60afa.jpg
 

kinkolinko

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Kinko, TH (I learned from pdib) is relative to your coil relationship to your airhole. If its lower than the airhole, the TH will be low. If you raise the coil so more air gets under the coil, the TH will increase. Additionally, you want your coil away from the posts, closer to the air source and air source centered (or as close to center as possible) on the coil mass horizontally. :)


Cool man. Thanks for the info. Never tried positioning the coils lower/higher. Always just moved the tope cap so air was either right on or a little bit off the coil ... Now i just gotta get some 28g for another microcoil try.
 

kinkolinko

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My first shot at a dual coil "roller coaster" build. Used my .5mm ribbon with m ekowool. This was literally my very first shot, did it in about 7 minutes and was PLEASNATLY surprised! Came out to .5ohms and hits wonderfully! Very excited that I am gettin this building thing down. Any suggestions from what you guys see? Thanks!!


null_zps313c2fb2.jpg


null_zpsbd7edf0d.jpg


null_zps90c60afa.jpg

Looks good meng! Looks just like one I have in one of the attys lying around. I usually end up cutting the wick in the middle after I decide I don't want to have to deal with the rollercoaster part blocking my airflow.
 
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