Any advice on getting GGTS button to be consistent?

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Cloud Wizard

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I have a SS GGTS and love it. Having inconsistent experience with the button.

Things I've done to try and fix:
  • Cleaned all contacts (threads with fiberglass brush pen, all touch contacts lightly with 000 steel wool, complete breakdown washed everything with PGA, etc)
  • Adjusted button throw to ensure contact on base post (max depth + longest possible travel length)
  • Replaced with new button springs from COV (brass button post on pre-order, still has steel button post)
  • Replaced with new base post springs from COV (has brass base post)
  • New batteries (AW 18490s and 18650s - all coming off charger between 4.1v-4.2v)
  • Same results kicked or un-kicked (tried settings between 9.0 to 10 watts)

When she hits well, she hits really well. When she's in a mood I need to rotate through steps of twisting the button or mash really hard or push really soft while wiggling button around. Results = Great hit, no hit or weak hit. I have the same experience regardless of juice device (OdyV2@1.5ohm, Pennie@1.5ohm or DID@0.8ohm). I'm stumped...
:confused:
 

Jagellpuff

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The brass post on the switch will help when it comes. I had the same thing happen initially, it was suggested to put Noalox on the threads so I did. Made a huge difference. Grounding has to happen thru all the threaded connections and this helps that. I still had some misfires with the Kick and again it was suggested to turn the base spring around, and it helped. Now I rarely have any issue till the battery is almost dead.


Jeff "Jagellpuff" via iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Poppa D

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I find the threads that are between the GG button and the mod tube, and its threads, get dirty and need extra attention.
Also, when using a Kick removing the axis spring from the GG mod base makes a better neg. connection for the module.
I hope this helps.

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Cloud Wizard

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Did you dismantle your button and check/clean it?

Well Capt Steve, you guilted me into going back 100% tear-down + PGA scrub (and replaced all o-rings since I was in there). I actually had to download the user manual.pdf as the previous owner had left a couple o-rings out but she's whole again :) Seems much better yet still getting some weak hits occasionally (but haven't gotten any "no-hits").

Thx "everyone" for the help. Hopefully the brass button posts will arrive soon and I ordered the magnets. On the Noalox, I was using it but it seems to breakdown/get dirty really quickly so I scrubbed it all out and I actually seem to get better performance. Not as smooth sounding when I twist it together but I can live with that.

+1 on having forgotten to scrub the threads between the button tube and the body tube. They were dirty, guess I missed them on the last go around.
 

RiverNut

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make sure your springs are actually brass. I bought several from COV that are not brass. In fact only 2 out of about 30 are brass and those 2 are for the button. None of the battery springs I have are brass. If you're not sure put a magnet on it, if it's attracted, it's not brass. As Poppa said go without the battery spring if you are using a Kick and try applying side pressure to the switch when you start having misfires.
NO OX ID "A" on all threads and contact points will help tremendously with slowing down oxidation.
 

RiverNut

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I'm not positive but I don't think so. We use NO OX ID "A" at work for connections supporting 5000-10,000 amp power plants.
You should be able to find it in the electrical section of Home Depot. Let me know if you can't find it...I'll send you a sample to try.

edit: and I just received word from Imeo that he is sending brass springs with the GGTS/UFS order.:)
 
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RiverNut

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NOT a big deal, but I am a little disappointed when I get things blatantly different than what I purchased...

it actually is a big deal to me but I'm not one to force issues. I bought 30ish expecting brass and when I found out they werent and didn't get answers to my ticket at COV I posted a thread in the COV forum alerting other GG users. One, so they would know what they are buying and two, so they would know a possible reason for poor performance on the TS. I also expected that COV would offer to refund but that didn't happen.
I will never the less be VERY happy to have real brass springs :toast:
 
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