Yes I would love to use a single 14500, 18490 or 18650 and still be able to use the Variable Voltage feature. That's why I love the GGTS, I can put to use all my batteries and not worry about charging certain ones.
Any ideas of what we need for the VV that I am making?
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won't be limited to certain batteries, well maybe AWs or other batteries able to handle the amperage draw in a given configuration, but it will likely be limited to certain battery chemistries/voltages, i.e. 3.7V LiCo, LiMn, not 3.2V LiFePO4 or regulated 3V LiCo or stacked varieties of these...will likely be one or the other but not all of them.
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I want a mechanical VV. inclusion in the electronic device will lose the spirit of GG, i think.
It will be an add-on only Yeff. Its not my intention to make an electronic GGTS, it looks a silly idea to me, you think just like me
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DO NOT use a booster, you are limited to 6v max with a booster like the provari and battery life goes fast at the top end voltage too. many of us like myself are HV users 7v +
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After your answers I know what I will do guys. If someone has something else to add, I am open
Definately a boosted circuit that can run 6v on one battery. Switching regulator, with 3-4 amp protection built in. That 1.5 amp circuit protection in most mods is trash when used with dual coils.
DO NOT use a booster, you are limited to 6v max with a booster like the provari and battery life goes fast at the top end voltage too. many of us like myself are HV users 7v +
my
I'd ask the question, though, at what wattage are you running? 7+volts maybe, but what resistance are the atomisers you use? even a 3 ohm atty will pull over 18 watts of power, and draw just south of 2.5 amps - and that's heavy duty stuff - very hot and if you're stacking two batteries, you're gonna need liFePo or IMR to cope - but then, what use would VV be to someone who's regularly using that level of voltage anyway?
This is, I think, more to do with running, say, a standard 510 at the levels you'd get from, say, a 1.7 Ohm 510 without having to have a 1.7 to hand - it's the ability to run a (dare I say it) Clearo that purports to be 2.6 ohms and turns out to be 3 ohms at the performance level you want. For me, VV and VP are a means to an end - and that is to fine tune the performance of any given atty or carto to the sweet spot. Since I rarely buy or get given higher resistance devices, 7.4 volts is of little interest to me - I rarely venture above 10 watts, and that's generally too hot for me anyway.
But - and this is the really nice part - it's eminently possible to produce two types of module - one for stacked, high voltage, and the other for boosted single battery usage. Same form factor, different coloured control rings??
As a fellow designer, I would vote for PWM, or all mechanical VV, in the end cap to reduce overall length. How long is the center end cap post? Just build the VV add on to take the place of the end cap and center post. Maybe about 10 to 20 mm increase in overall length. My
i think maybe you should give the mechanical VV a shot. it seems more in tune with what you do and what the GG is all about. regardless of whether you go the electronic route or not, i think it's really important that you fully believe in, stand behind, and endorse this added component in the same way you do the rest of the GG products. even though it's an add on, it's still a part of the GGTS and ultimately a part of the GG family. i'm sure many will be hoping for long life, durability, and the overall consistency in performance and quality found in the rest of the GG stuff. it can't be something you're counting on failing or feel even the slightest bit silly about. do it your way, imeo, and if you'll do it make it GG and nothing else.
My vote goes for boost design, only because the capacity of stacked batts is very limited compared to a single 18650.
The ProVari does very well with the AW 18650 IMR.
6v should be plenty high for most people...
The ProVari does very well with the AW 18650 IMR.
6v should be plenty high for most people...
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Suggestions for VV features.After your answers I know what I will do guys. If someone has something else to add, I am open
I am more interested in having a consistent voltage from the batteries.
A simple inline voltage "regulator" with manual settings. This could be in the form of the battery insert.
If electronic (Not all realistic)
1) Low battery/voltage warning when you are getting close to the set voltage.
A "buzzer" or led flash/colour change
2) Coloured LEDs showing current battery level/voltage if atty fired in sequence, ie short, short, short, long.
3) Micro USB port for making setting change, checking status (IE resistance etc)
if friendly programmer can be found.
4) LED/USB port could be covered using a clear/metal "blanking" cover.
ie a shaped/rounded hex screw head to keep the "clean lines" or to completly hide it.
Hope these help.
Yak.
Yak,Bright,Early<-- Pick any TWO!
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Well, I like to run 2x,s 18350... I use 3.5ohm 901's & 5ohm 510's in my UFS @ that voltage. Sometimes your attys don't quite meter at the ohms they're supposed to be and sometimes your attys change ohms during use.... This is where vv comes in nice to compensate for the subtle changes and differences in your attys. IMO
As BuGG stated in another thread you'll get better battery life at higher voltages too...
9 watts requires something like 2.4 Amps at 3.7V, whereas 1.5 Amps are required at 6V and only 1.2 Amps are required at 7.4V. the greater the amperage demanded, the more stress placed on the battery and the faster the battery depletes.
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I run both types - stacked and single battery, with both types of VV... in my experience, the stacked battery jobs I have wimp out much quicker, and the voltage available can never exceed what the batteries will provide natively. With the single battery buck/boost circuits, I get clean and consistent voltage until the battery dies. That's in both of my preferred VV mods. It's a matter of preference, of course, but I don't have a need to fiddle with either - set the voltage/power, and it stays there until I'm ready to push another battery in/recharge....
That's the main point, isn't it...? To be able to get the best out of a particular atomizer or cartomizer (with whatever juice you happen to have in it), while being able to do it consistently (basically set it once and forget about it for a while).
What most are saying is basically a VV module that let's you adjust easily, maintains the voltage and amp output, and battery life is decent.
Features are cool, but performance is number one, in my book.
I think it would be interesting the capability of regulating the power of the device, more than the bare voltage.
Power regulation comprises voltage setting and resistance evaluation in one step, and I imagine it allows implementing a more simple "user interface" ...
Power regulation comprises voltage setting and resistance evaluation in one step, and I imagine it allows implementing a more simple "user interface" ...
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