Any tanks that dont leak?!?! seriously!
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Heh, I've had the Aro on a plane twice... Yeah, for those of you that haven't tried it........ EMPTY YOUR tank before you board.
Or bring a roll of paper towels and a clean, dry baggie.
I've been using the iclear30 for several months now and, while I did have some gurgling issues at first, that problem seems to have subsided. I have no idea what I"m doing differently. Just tonight I received an Aspire BDC. It vapes well. I don't think it is quite as good as the iclear 30 but it is plenty good. It will gurgle and flood if you don't have good airflow with your mod. I think the Aspire BDC looks a little better than the iclear30 but I don't mind the looks of the iclear30. I'm just glad to have something that vapes so well.
The only time my clearos spit juice is if I flood them. Have you tried blowing out the center tube?
Living, loving, and laughing all the time!
Living, loving, and laughing all the time!
I had the GS-H2 on the plane and they didn't leaked at all.
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My Pro Tank 2 never leaks.. now if I could only stop burning through my coils every day.
I've had a pro tank 2 for 3 days now and have yet to have it leak or burn a coil .
Quality carto tank with good O Rings....and non Bogegate Cartos
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Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
I use both carto and clearo tanks and the only one I haven't had leak on me is my Uni-Tank and I think that is just because it's so new it hasn't had the chance to. 
Even my cheapo 5 dollar Boge F-17 plastic carto tanks don't leak anymore now that I've got the hang of them. But I had a few messy flood incidents in the beginning that I wasn't exactly going to broadcast on here...It's amazing how embarrassed you can be when no one is watching.
Any tank can leak if you draw the lucky one from the batch....I didn't read every post on here but I am willing to bet that 90 plus percent of the tanks discussed threw this thread a China made in droves upwards of the thousands on factory assembly lines and just like any other mass produced piece there's going to be a couple bad apples. I use a lot of Kanger Tanks. Let's use the Pro Tank for an example...
I have only one Pro Tank version one because when I started vaping I didn't need a glass tank and then I started mixing my own juice and figured out my favorite home mix has citric acid in it...after being lucky and not destroying a T2 I bought a protank around the time the protank two was coming out so since I could no longer get a Protank One in the color I wanted I bought the second version to see if it really was that much better...and I liked it. I don't think it solved all the problems of a protank but it was solid enough that I ordered a second one so I'd have a spair just in case something happened to my first one since I am kinda clumbsy these days. My second one came in the mail, I was so excited as I cleaned it up ad rinsed it off and loaded a 1.8 ohm coil into it and screwed on an e-Go battery to see how these things tasted worked with a low resistance coil on it....and I got the worst dry hit I have ever gotten. So I decided to wait awhile, a few dry hits and bubbles, and I tried again...and still that taste...No problem, it has to just be a bad coil, I'll try another one....And the same thing...oh and somehow I flooded it and made it leak a few times too onto my battery connection
So I after I tried a few different coils and a lot of waisted time I put a different base on it thinking there must be a machining error on it and it's not flowing correctly...and I'd still get that burned taste no matter how many dry hits or time went by or what juice I switched to...meanwhile I've got 4 Protank 2 Mini's and my other PT2 that fires just fine. So I'd try the same coil in a different one and it would work....or I'd get that bad tank to fire and I'd manage to flood it and be ...... as I cleaned it up. I even put it on my Evic because it has the ability to ajust Watts in .1 increments and not just volts with a 2.5 Ohm coil and still got a burned taste and got that coil to work fine in another tank. I switched the bottom part that connects to the base and it works now, I can't explain it...there's some minor defect in it that doesn't make it flow right....
Anyways my point is this. Even the more expensive tanks can leak. You can do everything right and have a bad apple once in awhile. Even when you have a tank there is nothing wrong with it can flood or leak over time if you don't keep up on it.
I used to think my T3s's leaked till I started blocking the air tube with a precision tip Q-tip or using a needle tiped bottle to fill them. And if you don't use them everyday while there is liquid in them they will slowly build up liquid on the coil and flood. All my Kanger tanks do this I've noticed. Bad tanks happen but there is also a little bit of upkeep too with vaping tanks. This is my two cents for what it is worth.
I hope my experience is of some small help and best of luck to you. and always...Happy Vaping!
Even my cheapo 5 dollar Boge F-17 plastic carto tanks don't leak anymore now that I've got the hang of them. But I had a few messy flood incidents in the beginning that I wasn't exactly going to broadcast on here...It's amazing how embarrassed you can be when no one is watching.Any tank can leak if you draw the lucky one from the batch....I didn't read every post on here but I am willing to bet that 90 plus percent of the tanks discussed threw this thread a China made in droves upwards of the thousands on factory assembly lines and just like any other mass produced piece there's going to be a couple bad apples. I use a lot of Kanger Tanks. Let's use the Pro Tank for an example...
I have only one Pro Tank version one because when I started vaping I didn't need a glass tank and then I started mixing my own juice and figured out my favorite home mix has citric acid in it...after being lucky and not destroying a T2 I bought a protank around the time the protank two was coming out so since I could no longer get a Protank One in the color I wanted I bought the second version to see if it really was that much better...and I liked it. I don't think it solved all the problems of a protank but it was solid enough that I ordered a second one so I'd have a spair just in case something happened to my first one since I am kinda clumbsy these days. My second one came in the mail, I was so excited as I cleaned it up ad rinsed it off and loaded a 1.8 ohm coil into it and screwed on an e-Go battery to see how these things tasted worked with a low resistance coil on it....and I got the worst dry hit I have ever gotten. So I decided to wait awhile, a few dry hits and bubbles, and I tried again...and still that taste...No problem, it has to just be a bad coil, I'll try another one....And the same thing...oh and somehow I flooded it and made it leak a few times too onto my battery connection
So I after I tried a few different coils and a lot of waisted time I put a different base on it thinking there must be a machining error on it and it's not flowing correctly...and I'd still get that burned taste no matter how many dry hits or time went by or what juice I switched to...meanwhile I've got 4 Protank 2 Mini's and my other PT2 that fires just fine. So I'd try the same coil in a different one and it would work....or I'd get that bad tank to fire and I'd manage to flood it and be ...... as I cleaned it up. I even put it on my Evic because it has the ability to ajust Watts in .1 increments and not just volts with a 2.5 Ohm coil and still got a burned taste and got that coil to work fine in another tank. I switched the bottom part that connects to the base and it works now, I can't explain it...there's some minor defect in it that doesn't make it flow right....
Anyways my point is this. Even the more expensive tanks can leak. You can do everything right and have a bad apple once in awhile. Even when you have a tank there is nothing wrong with it can flood or leak over time if you don't keep up on it.
I used to think my T3s's leaked till I started blocking the air tube with a precision tip Q-tip or using a needle tiped bottle to fill them. And if you don't use them everyday while there is liquid in them they will slowly build up liquid on the coil and flood. All my Kanger tanks do this I've noticed. Bad tanks happen but there is also a little bit of upkeep too with vaping tanks. This is my two cents for what it is worth.
I hope my experience is of some small help and best of luck to you. and always...Happy Vaping!
I used c4's and liked them but they leak through the vent holes and also crack easy if dropped ( I guess that is to be expected) but the constant leaking through the vent holes and on top of my batteries is tiresome - tried T3S BCC and do not leak - except when you go to fill them - turn them upside down and unscrew the bottom and a puddle comes out the mouthpiece ??? no I am not getting juice in the center tube, However the worse trouble I am having with them is they seem to be killing my batteries - I am using ego type batteries Kanger and Joytech 650 and 1000 - and my 650's are draining in about 30 minutes - and the 1000's in about an hour. My batteries are not old and are being rotated - so something here is really wrong - I am using mostly 50/50 ejuice - my batteries seem to charge up again as normal - but I cant kill my batteries for a $5 clearo - any suggestions - - - -
hmm...Sady....
I responded earlier about the protank in this thread but since you mentioned the T3s I thought I might try and help again. e-Go batteries are Lithium Ion based batteries and are wonderful because although they don't have a memory and have a fairly long shelf life, they have a limit to how many times they can be charged. This being said the bigger the battery the longer it is going to last because you can use it longer between charges. A battery doesn't have to be old to "ware out" it just has to be recharged enough times that it is towards the end of it's cycle ratings and is starting to ware down. With e-Go's as well it is hard to tell if there is a loose solder connections from being dropped or just being mis/badly soldered at the factory causing it to misfire or drain quickly and since pretty much all e-Go batteries are protected batteries it is shutting itself down to protect you and itself. If you have a multi meter I would test the battery to see what it is discharging at after it is charged. You can google how to do it safely on youtube or ask another member here but I don't feel qualified enough to be giving instructions on checking voltages and such, I don't even know how to spell electrition and don't feel I should be giving instructions as such.
It is uncommon but sometimes you can get a pack with several bad coils in it, I'd test those as well just to make sure there isn't a short. As for leaking tanks...especially with Kanger's there is a way to keep them from leaking for the most part. It is not fool proof but it works for me 99 percent of the time. When I first started vaping my very first T2 tank leaked no matter what, I'd change the coil, I'd over tighten it, I'd under tighten it, didn't matter...it turned out just to be a bad tank and I got another one and it worked just fine....as long as I used it every day. It wasn't until I started running four to five different tanks at once I figured out the secret to Kanger tanks. T2's will more slowly build up liquid in the top coil and trickle down over time, if you have long wicked atomizers or leave them on their sides this can happen much quicker as long with it leaking out the top. The T2 is a solid top coil tank, but I keep a 5 pack of spare tops for them because they are super easy to break the theading or the seal on.
The T3s is a totally different beast, and I've found this true with my pro tank mini's and Evods as well. If you keep liquid in them you have to use them everyday. Kinda like starting a car for 15 minutes to charge up the battery you take a few hits off of each one with liquid to keep everything flowing properly. The T3s is a great tank but the reason why the evod and the mini T3s is so popular is that once you get half way threw that tank the vacuum force does it's job and starts pushing juice out with more force. If you don't keep the tank full or vape on it every day even if it is full it will over time build up juice around the coil since it is constantly submerged in juice and then gurgle and get into the air tube or leak onto the battery connection. It will also leak onto the battery if the coil starts to unscrew itself and the seal is broken. I've had that happen a few times where I've taken the base off and the coil has stayed in the tank. The way I've learned to avoid Kanger bottom coil tanks from leaking is to take a few draws off of them everyday even if I don't want to vape the whole tanks...just a few like two or three usually does the trick. And when I go to fill them, Q-tip brand q-tips makes a "precision tip" now. It sounds cheesy and they aren't as cheap as the generic brand but they fit in the mouthpiece and the bottom of the air tube for a T3s perfectly. I'll stick one in the airtube while I am filling the tank to make sure no juice leaks into it and another into the mouth piece at the same time once in awhile to see if the tank has developed a leak around the mouth piece. It only happened to me once but it can happen. I also will unscrew the coil and wipe down the base and the bottom threads on the coil and the bottom threads of the tank down to the top of the airtube to make sure no excess juice leaks out.
I know this was long and wordy but it took me awhile to figure these things out and I hope they can help save some headache and stress. it sounds like a lot but a couple bucks for a box of q-tips and a box of kleenex and an extra 15 to 30 seconds tops can save you a big headache and keep you bottom coil tanks from leaking. These ideas work for a lot of BCC tanks, justed use the T3s since that is the one that was brought up again.
Hope I helped, good luck, and happy vaping!
I responded earlier about the protank in this thread but since you mentioned the T3s I thought I might try and help again. e-Go batteries are Lithium Ion based batteries and are wonderful because although they don't have a memory and have a fairly long shelf life, they have a limit to how many times they can be charged. This being said the bigger the battery the longer it is going to last because you can use it longer between charges. A battery doesn't have to be old to "ware out" it just has to be recharged enough times that it is towards the end of it's cycle ratings and is starting to ware down. With e-Go's as well it is hard to tell if there is a loose solder connections from being dropped or just being mis/badly soldered at the factory causing it to misfire or drain quickly and since pretty much all e-Go batteries are protected batteries it is shutting itself down to protect you and itself. If you have a multi meter I would test the battery to see what it is discharging at after it is charged. You can google how to do it safely on youtube or ask another member here but I don't feel qualified enough to be giving instructions on checking voltages and such, I don't even know how to spell electrition and don't feel I should be giving instructions as such.
It is uncommon but sometimes you can get a pack with several bad coils in it, I'd test those as well just to make sure there isn't a short. As for leaking tanks...especially with Kanger's there is a way to keep them from leaking for the most part. It is not fool proof but it works for me 99 percent of the time. When I first started vaping my very first T2 tank leaked no matter what, I'd change the coil, I'd over tighten it, I'd under tighten it, didn't matter...it turned out just to be a bad tank and I got another one and it worked just fine....as long as I used it every day. It wasn't until I started running four to five different tanks at once I figured out the secret to Kanger tanks. T2's will more slowly build up liquid in the top coil and trickle down over time, if you have long wicked atomizers or leave them on their sides this can happen much quicker as long with it leaking out the top. The T2 is a solid top coil tank, but I keep a 5 pack of spare tops for them because they are super easy to break the theading or the seal on.
The T3s is a totally different beast, and I've found this true with my pro tank mini's and Evods as well. If you keep liquid in them you have to use them everyday. Kinda like starting a car for 15 minutes to charge up the battery you take a few hits off of each one with liquid to keep everything flowing properly. The T3s is a great tank but the reason why the evod and the mini T3s is so popular is that once you get half way threw that tank the vacuum force does it's job and starts pushing juice out with more force. If you don't keep the tank full or vape on it every day even if it is full it will over time build up juice around the coil since it is constantly submerged in juice and then gurgle and get into the air tube or leak onto the battery connection. It will also leak onto the battery if the coil starts to unscrew itself and the seal is broken. I've had that happen a few times where I've taken the base off and the coil has stayed in the tank. The way I've learned to avoid Kanger bottom coil tanks from leaking is to take a few draws off of them everyday even if I don't want to vape the whole tanks...just a few like two or three usually does the trick. And when I go to fill them, Q-tip brand q-tips makes a "precision tip" now. It sounds cheesy and they aren't as cheap as the generic brand but they fit in the mouthpiece and the bottom of the air tube for a T3s perfectly. I'll stick one in the airtube while I am filling the tank to make sure no juice leaks into it and another into the mouth piece at the same time once in awhile to see if the tank has developed a leak around the mouth piece. It only happened to me once but it can happen. I also will unscrew the coil and wipe down the base and the bottom threads on the coil and the bottom threads of the tank down to the top of the airtube to make sure no excess juice leaks out.
I know this was long and wordy but it took me awhile to figure these things out and I hope they can help save some headache and stress. it sounds like a lot but a couple bucks for a box of q-tips and a box of kleenex and an extra 15 to 30 seconds tops can save you a big headache and keep you bottom coil tanks from leaking. These ideas work for a lot of BCC tanks, justed use the T3s since that is the one that was brought up again.
Hope I helped, good luck, and happy vaping!
Thanks for the help - I will get some of the qtips - I am going to try setting my c4's upright when not in use and see if that does anything -
my batteries are all 2 months or less old and from a couple different vendors so not from the same batch or mfg - and they seem to work well on the C4's without issue - so that leads me to believe the T3S are pulling a lot out of them - so I may have a bad or not so good batch of coils. Some of my batteries behave as if they could be running into a short or something as they just shut down - will seem to have full power then nothing
my batteries are all 2 months or less old and from a couple different vendors so not from the same batch or mfg - and they seem to work well on the C4's without issue - so that leads me to believe the T3S are pulling a lot out of them - so I may have a bad or not so good batch of coils. Some of my batteries behave as if they could be running into a short or something as they just shut down - will seem to have full power then nothing
I have not had any problems with my protank 2's leaking until today. I was swapping to a different tank (not paying real close attention) and unscrewed the tank from the coil! LOL Definitely user error! On a good note it was almost empty before I did this so I didn't lose much.
Now on the plane thing mentioned above, I will be flying this week. I plan to empty all my tanks except for one which I will need. I have read turning the device upside down on take-off will keep your tank from leaking. Question is, should this tank be full or half full. Maybe just a little under full? Anyone know what is best?
Now on the plane thing mentioned above, I will be flying this week. I plan to empty all my tanks except for one which I will need. I have read turning the device upside down on take-off will keep your tank from leaking. Question is, should this tank be full or half full. Maybe just a little under full? Anyone know what is best?
from my experience most leaks have been user error and hadly ever manufacturer error, not saying that it doesnt happen but it usually is user error.
I am not trying to show off my collection but I have 7 T2's, 5T3s, 2 Mini T3's, 4 M1's (MT3s tanks for the Go-Go batts that use T3s coils), 4 Evods, 6 Pro Tank 2 mini's, 2 Pro Tank 2's, and a Pro Tank 1, 2 Smok Tech Pyrex Aro Tanks, a handful of spare bases and parts for all of them, "and a partrage in a pear tree." Needless to say I go threw a few coils...I bought a lot of them and I learned to hand wind them as well though I still buy some new ones from time to time to keep fresh parts coming in and they really are about the cheapest name brand coils out there. Sometimes I get a few bad coils in a row...sometimes I can clean and just put a little bit of different sized scilica on top of the coil to replace the stupid "flavor wick" and it it's good to go. I've got one coil I bought that is still going over a month later, I don't use it everyday, but it's loved to say the least.
My point is going threw all of these, especially when I first started hand winding them it happened a lot till I really got the hang of it, is a coil will have a bent wire or I would touch two wraps together stuffing it and not notice. I'd even get a good reading on a multimeter untill it is fired and then it shorts out and won't fire at all or will read at a totally different resistance. It happened to me a lot hand winding them at first that it would fire then short.
Usually the store bought ones would just taste burnt with no saving or not fire at all. But hey, either way it can happen. You have to think about how many of these little things are mass produced in a factory and shipped all over the world everyday. I am not defending the factories and it sucks when it's your blister pack...but if a million coils got made one day and five failed...yeah it totally sucks that it was your five (or my five for that matter,) but five out of a million ain't so bad for the price is it?
User error might be the number one cause of leaks and bad coils but it's not the only cause and I'd like to look at the tank half full and not half empty this way...Happy Vaping
My point is going threw all of these, especially when I first started hand winding them it happened a lot till I really got the hang of it, is a coil will have a bent wire or I would touch two wraps together stuffing it and not notice. I'd even get a good reading on a multimeter untill it is fired and then it shorts out and won't fire at all or will read at a totally different resistance. It happened to me a lot hand winding them at first that it would fire then short.
Usually the store bought ones would just taste burnt with no saving or not fire at all. But hey, either way it can happen. You have to think about how many of these little things are mass produced in a factory and shipped all over the world everyday. I am not defending the factories and it sucks when it's your blister pack...but if a million coils got made one day and five failed...yeah it totally sucks that it was your five (or my five for that matter,) but five out of a million ain't so bad for the price is it?
User error might be the number one cause of leaks and bad coils but it's not the only cause and I'd like to look at the tank half full and not half empty this way...Happy Vaping
Zac- you are right we are most likely to hit a few - I think I am going to get a new pack of coils for the T3S and see what happens - does not appear it is a common problem
Thanks
Thanks
All tanks will leak if not set up correctly, used correctly, or overfilled, or just to piss one off. That being said, I have never had a leak from my Terminator-C, but it can be flooded and leak if it is not wicked correctly or assembled correctly. Finding what works best for ones personal preferences, and how to operate it correctly, is half the battle. Good luck on your search and acquiring of the right choice for you.
Right now I'm using cheap CE4's and I'm not having any problems, maybe it's a fault on your part?
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