Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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Good question.....I'll try to check that out in the next day or two, when I have enough free time to mess with them. Would be nice if it works, thanks for the suggestion!
Oh wait....I've taken a coil that wouldn't screw down in my Kabuki & screwed it right in one of my Nautilus Mini's, so????? But I'll still give it a shot since I didn't retry it in a Kabuki after it went in fine on the Nautilus.
I am told to put them around the metal parts, otherwise you are just creating more pressure on the glass when you drop it. Just got two from ProVape - strange to use at first, but am already comfortable with it. And my Radius showed up a day early - so I hope to see less drops as it fills my hand nicely.
I've found the best way to separate the glass from the top for cleaning is to push the the chimney with my thumb. After removing the base I hold the glass in one hand and stick my thumb inside the glass and give a gentle push. It keeps you in control of the tank and less force is needed to get the top section off due to the leverage factor.
Seems, Mr. Zen, if there ever is a Kabuke 2, it might be wonderful if you were to focus on the on/off of the caps. I'm seeing this as one of the communal issues.
Having said that, they DO loosen up with use. My first time taking them off was LESS than a stellar experience. And it took the better part of an evening. I knew to go slowly in order not to fracture the glass, but slowly was, ummmm.... eternity making! And like Robin, I found a use for those dreadful yellow dishwashing gloves.
They loosened after that. But the issue of the air flow skin ripper still exists for me. As Yonjuro posted, I grab for a thick rubber band in order to facilitate the unscrew of the inscrew.
Mine are 510, jwb, and now only too easy to get apart -- when I use them with non-HoH glass.
Robin is as Kat does. I was persisssssssssssssssstent. It took a LONG while, and I moved like a tortoise on downers, , , not that I'd have a klue what that would be like.
Actually, what I did was to lube, wipe off, lube, wipe off, lube, wipe off -- whatever little teensy bit of space I could get between the top cap and the glass. It seemed totally kounterintuitive, but somehow, in the recesses of KatMind, it was going to eventually work. It did.
<icon symbolizing patting shoulder here>
As do I, DPL, and I'm truly glad we have several of both in the stash.
Having said that, they DO loosen up with use. My first time taking them off was LESS than a stellar experience. And it took the better part of an evening. I knew to go slowly in order not to fracture the glass, but slowly was, ummmm.... eternity making! And like Robin, I found a use for those dreadful yellow dishwashing gloves.
They loosened after that. But the issue of the air flow skin ripper still exists for me. As Yonjuro posted, I grab for a thick rubber band in order to facilitate the unscrew of the inscrew.
Mine are 510, jwb, and now only too easy to get apart -- when I use them with non-HoH glass.
I have a replacement glass. How the hell do you get the top off the glass though? My hands aren't strong enough...
I will play around with it more later. I am NOT giving up on this device so easily. I am the kind of person that will keep tweaking till I figure things out. I've been told I am stubborn.
You can call me Robin...no need for formalities
Robin is as Kat does. I was persisssssssssssssssstent. It took a LONG while, and I moved like a tortoise on downers, , , not that I'd have a klue what that would be like.
Actually, what I did was to lube, wipe off, lube, wipe off, lube, wipe off -- whatever little teensy bit of space I could get between the top cap and the glass. It seemed totally kounterintuitive, but somehow, in the recesses of KatMind, it was going to eventually work. It did.
<icon symbolizing patting shoulder here>
As do I, DPL, and I'm truly glad we have several of both in the stash.
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On the agenda....
Katdarling said:Having said that, they DO loosen up with use. My first time taking them off was LESS than a stellar experience. And it took the better part of an evening. I knew to go slowly in order not to fracture the glass, but slowly was, ummmm.... eternity making! And like Robin, I found a use for those dreadful yellow dishwashing gloves.
They loosened after that. But the issue of the air flow skin ripper still exist for me. As Yonjuro posted, I grab for a thick rubber band in order to facilitate the unscrew of the inscrew.
A Vape Band works well for this!
I've been using my Kabuki P3 for a couple of weeks now and am not having any trouble getting either the top or bottom caps off. I used the rubber band a couple of times at the beginning but never need to now. Never cut my hand on the air opening. Never cracked a glass either...touch wood Yep it was pretty tight on arrival, but that is a good thing in my books.
I did watch Zen's video before I attempted anything with it though, so that helped a lot.
It really is a great bit of quality gear and I only have two gripes.
1. I am disappointed at a small bit of delaminating on the top cap of the Stealth version. I have since read this whole thread and now know why. I never boiled it but did wash in warm water - a warning in the packaging would have been helpful as I would think that washing in warm water was a pretty normal thing to do.
2. The cross threading on a few of the aspire coils is very frustrating. I have my own method of sorting this on most occasions and follow the anti-clockwise rotation before tightening as recommended by Zen. But it still happens more often that I would like.
Despite the gripes, I would certainly buy another in a heartbeat. The vape is wonderful and it looks beyond awesome on my Stealth P3 
Yep it was pretty tight on arrival, but that is a good thing in my books. I did watch Zen's video before I attempted anything with it though, so that helped a lot.
It really is a great bit of quality gear and I only have two gripes.
1. I am disappointed at a small bit of delaminating on the top cap of the Stealth version. I have since read this whole thread and now know why. I never boiled it but did wash in warm water - a warning in the packaging would have been helpful as I would think that washing in warm water was a pretty normal thing to do.
2. The cross threading on a few of the aspire coils is very frustrating. I have my own method of sorting this on most occasions and follow the anti-clockwise rotation before tightening as recommended by Zen. But it still happens more often that I would like.
Despite the gripes, I would certainly buy another in a heartbeat.
The vape is wonderful and it looks beyond awesome on my Stealth P3
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I tried going in reverse to no avail. For me, checking each coils threads was the only answer. It is extremely frustrating when all they do is cross thread, coil after coil.
I sit the tank on a flat glass table and with a feather light touch I put the bottom cap on. I rotate anti clockwise quite a few times and then ever so gently apply the lightest of pressure possible to head it on. If I feel it catch I stop, normally this will be enough to snag the thing in the chimney :-(
If so I use my pliers on my leatherman and careful hold it above the thread and gently give it a slight left turn to loosen it.
I will give the coil a test in the chimney to make sure it is okay and not deformed.
I then try again, making sure I really have the coil tightened in fully to the base beforehand.
I threw one coil out at the beginning but haven't had to since.
Yep it is a PITA but quickly forgotten when I start vaping
See, my P3 Kabukis need none of that.
Just screw it on and go.
They screw together like budda.
My 510s can be a little cranky. They require backing to get the coil threading correctly.
Just screw it on and go.
They screw together like budda.
My 510s can be a little cranky. They require backing to get the coil threading correctly.
Interesting observation, The top (Chimney) section for the P3 and 510 are identical, and all made at the same time, 10,000 Pcs at a time. There IS a slight difference, in how far the coil sits in the base... the coil sits higher in the 510.
It's odd to me (with my bad hands), you'd think I would have issues, but (knock wood) I can screw in/out coils with zero issues. Am not quite sure if you all are having issues at the top or the bottom? I take the entire topper off if I plan to change a coil (P3), and I simply screw it into the base with my fingers, nice and snug.
If I am simply adding juice, I turn the entire mod (Radius now) upside down, and unscrew the entire top portion of the Kabuki from the coil, add my juice, and (still upside down) screw backwards to a click then easily and gently screw forward til the glass is snug with the bottom of the Kabuki?
As for pulling the glass off the top, I never do that unless my glass is already broken (3X now).
I can also vape til the last drop without any worry. As in tilt the PV and see almost zero juice movement, so some of you that complain about only hold 2~3mls, consider that you need not be quick on the refill unless just leaving the house, etc...
If I am simply adding juice, I turn the entire mod (Radius now) upside down, and unscrew the entire top portion of the Kabuki from the coil, add my juice, and (still upside down) screw backwards to a click then easily and gently screw forward til the glass is snug with the bottom of the Kabuki?
As for pulling the glass off the top, I never do that unless my glass is already broken (3X now).
I can also vape til the last drop without any worry. As in tilt the PV and see almost zero juice movement, so some of you that complain about only hold 2~3mls, consider that you need not be quick on the refill unless just leaving the house, etc...
I need it to last me 8-10 hours, in a VERY fast paced environment. And would someone (other than Kat and me) PLEASE take a syringe to it and tell me what you pull out (so to speak)? We both came to 2ml exactly, with multiple efforts. I was able to hit 2.5 when the coil stuck in the chimney (which is a good thing for me, because I can fit more juice.
For me, just ME, it's not enough (for a workday). Love the tanks, and I use them every single day. At home.
So it's not a complaint, but a statement. Not a single regret here, two-deep. Thankfully, I obviously have no taste buds, so the older stuff still works great for me too. I consider myself fortunate in that regard.
Brilliant! - hadn't thought of that...much better than paper towels!
I too have had no problems so far with coils (510 & P3) but I have only used a few as they are lasting so long!.
I watched the video before attempting to open the base first time and applied ejuice to o-rings. I also made sure the air flow screw was well into the body of the Kabuki. Loosened up really quickly and didn't need wrench after the first couple of times (have 4 now and all the same). May be a good idea to have a couple of lines on the label regarding this for those who haven't watched/ didn't find the video straight away? I'm one of those odd people who take make stuff by counting & checking off every nut/ bolt etc. before reading all instructions and only than starting to assemble so I search out instructions (even if I don't need to). My husband reads the first few lines of whatever is in the box, throws everything on the floor, finds a picture of whatever he is assembling and then guesses how it all goes together - he only goes back to find more info when he hasn't been able to get it to work. Even he would read the label (actually thinking about it he might not....
)To change o-rings/ glass I take the bottom off, put ejuice inside the glass where it joins the top, stuff the glass with kitchen paper and fold it round the edge (just in case it breaks) then twist top cap (holding glass and top cap). It comes off quite easily (but does squeak a bit in protest
). I had more problems installing new o-rings until I realised they need to be installed from the top down (i.e. stretch over from drip tip end/ 510 end) .
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