Anybody Using A Kabuki?

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Ca Ike

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The biggest problem with the cerakote is the simple fact that it's done on stainless. Stainless is a ..... to get most coatings to stick to. The high carbon steel used in firearms is much more conducive to coatings. Honestly I think using a cdc coating like gun blueing would be better.
 

ENAUD

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Not flaking but just wearing off. Any sharp edge is showing more and more silver metal every day. You don't vape looks but I'm still not happy that this is happening.

The GMZ I have is still perfect.
My stealth Kabuki doesn't count, as it was a blem purchase, and the finish had a tiny chip on the top edge. The steel is now showing through a good portion of that edge now, and I did expect it to grow. I'm going to just take the coating off of the edge only and let that shiny band be, it is what it is. I don't baby my mods and atties, I expected to see some metal showing through at some point.

With that said, the rest of the finish has held up admirably.
 

GeekyGeezer

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My stealth Kabuki doesn't count, as it was a blem purchase, and the finish had a tiny chip on the top edge. The steel is now showing through a good portion of that edge now, and I did expect it to grow. I'm going to just take the coating off of the edge only and let that shiny band be, it is what it is. I don't baby my mods and atties, I expected to see some metal showing through at some point.

With that said, the rest of the finish has held up admirably.

Taking the edge coating off might look pretty cool and for sure a lot better than the dalmation effect I have now. What are you thinking of? Sandpaper, Scotchbrite, chemical, machine tools???
 

ENAUD

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Taking the edge coating off might look pretty cool and for sure a lot better than the dalmation effect I have now. What are you thinking of? Sandpaper, Scotchbrite, chemical, machine tools???
I just held it at an angle and spun it by hand on a piece of 320 grit paper, light touch, paper flat on the bench. Took about 30 seconds.

P.S. it does look cool and a lot better than it did when only partial. No guarantee that this won't cause further paint loss, if it ever gets too ratty looking I'll just re-surface the whole thing. Maybe make the outside shiny steel with a black interior. That might look really cool. :cool:
 
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Jim-

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I have a similar story to Enaud's. I have three Stealth Kabooks. Two have weathered well and one, a Black Friday Blem, has had the finish come apart at the edges. Ill put up with the black and SS digital camo until it really annoys me and then polish it out or have it re-coated. At the end of the day, it was a blem, so I have little room to complain.
 

HBcorpse

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Stainless IS a beast for most coatings...
What doesn't help is the surface not being prepared properly.
When I had my old Provari Mini v2.5 custom coated, the guy media blasted it first...leaving it with a frosted appearance. He did the same with my Kayfuns.

My guess is, the Stealth Kabukis are being coated without this process...which is why the coating is not adhering as well.

The media blasting process (think of sandblasting), not only cleans any impurities off the surface, but it also makes the surface rough (microscopically rough)...this allows the Cerakote to "grab" the surface better.

Again, Stainless Steel isn't the ideal material surface for Cerakote, but if it's prepared properly, it should work just fine.
 

gin828

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The biggest problem with the cerakote is the simple fact that it's done on stainless. Stainless is a ..... to get most coatings to stick to. The high carbon steel used in firearms is much more conducive to coatings. Honestly I think using a cdc coating like gun blueing would be better.[/QUOTE
Cerakote has no problem sticking to stainless steel if the surface is properly prepared before it is applied. If Cerakote is not cured properly. It will peel off very easily. If you use the air dry cured Cerakote it can take a month for it to fully cure.
 
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gin828

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Stainless IS a beast for most coatings...
What doesn't help is the surface not being prepared properly.
When I had my old Provari Mini v2.5 custom coated, the guy media blasted it first...leaving it with a frosted appearance. He did the same with my Kayfuns.

My guess is, the Stealth Kabukis are being coated without this process...which is why the coating is not adhering as well.

The media blasting process (think of sandblasting), not only cleans any impurities off the surface, but it also makes the surface rough (microscopically rough)...this allows the Cerakote to "grab" the surface better.

Again, Stainless Steel isn't the ideal material surface for Cerakote, but if it's prepared properly, it should work just fine.
Stainless IS a beast for most coatings...
What doesn't help is the surface not being prepared properly.
When I had my old Provari Mini v2.5 custom coated, the guy media blasted it first...leaving it with a frosted appearance. He did the same with my Kayfuns.

My guess is, the Stealth Kabukis are being coated without this process...which is why the coating is not adhering as well.

The media blasting process (think of sandblasting), not only cleans any impurities off the surface, but it also makes the surface rough (microscopically rough)...this allows the Cerakote to "grab" the surface better.

Again, Stainless Steel isn't the ideal material surface for Cerakote, but if it's prepared properly, it should work just fine.

I agree 100% if it wasn't bead blasted it won't stick.
 

tearose50

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HB -- just start reading from here forward a couple of pages. Astro shows this after boiling plus a few after shots, after getting all the black removed.

DO NOT BOIL YOUR STEALTH KABUKI!!!

48ec4d0ddd4ea56a4e06820407e22931.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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kbf101998

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Am I to understand that the Stealth Kabuki is flaking apart on people?
As in, the black coating is essentially falling off?

How many have had this happen?

I have one and haven't had any peeling or flaking. I am very careful when cleaning--I typically take the glass out to wash, and just wipe the top and bottom with a paper towel.
 

HBcorpse

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HB -- just start reading from here forward a couple of pages. Astro shows this after boiling plus a few after shots, after getting all the black removed.
After reading Asstro's posts, and viewing the pics...I can say this:

From what I can see in his pictures, the metal does not appear to have been media blasted, prior to Cerakote application.

That being said, I am -NOT- a Cerakote applicator/expert...
I can only speak from my experience with Cerakote application, having witnessed it firsthand, whilst having my devices custom coated.
I do not know who is charged with producing the Stealth Kabuki units.
My experience with Provape and HoH products tells me that both these companies know how to have Cerakote applied.
My guess is Zen does it himself, when not using Zenkote...and to my knowledge, Provape outsources to a Cerakote authorized/certified applicator.

From all the experiences I've put my custom pieces through, I can't seem to wrap my head around why people are experiencing de-lamination of their units...unless those units weren't media blasted before Cerakote application.
Maybe they are manufacturer defects because of that, which explains why not everyone is having that experience.
Maybe physical damage or improper treatment (boiling or ultrasonic cleaning) is causing the issue(s).

It would definitely be useful to have Zen and/or Vape360 weigh in...even though Zen has already posted his warning/advice.

I certainly hope this doesn't sway anyone away from a Stealth Kabuki. I'll certainly be purchasing one at some point!
 

ravnhaus

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I joined the Kabuki club today. It arrived in a box with a Satin Mini.
After an attempt to unscrew it using the hex tool and having no luck I reassessed the situation and discovered I was going in the wrong direction... Changed rotation and it came right off.
Filled it and placed on the Mini. Nice lines.
Fired it up and after a bit of adjustment I found the sweet spot. I think I am going to like it.
Cool product. USA made. High quality steel. Simple functional design that is pleasing to the eye. The vape works well. Flavor sublime. Mouth to lung performs perfectly. I dig the air adjustment.
Very glad I took the plunge.
 

skamaria

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I joined the Kabuki club today. It arrived in a box with a Satin Mini.
After an attempt to unscrew it using the hex tool and having no luck I reassessed the situation and discovered I was going in the wrong direction... Changed rotation and it came right off.
Filled it and placed on the Mini. Nice lines.
Fired it up and after a bit of adjustment I found the sweet spot. I think I am going to like it.
Cool product. USA made. High quality steel. Simple functional design that is pleasing to the eye. The vape works well. Flavor sublime. Mouth to lung performs perfectly. I dig the air adjustment.
Very glad I took the plunge.
Congrats on your new purchase! It is a great utilitarian combo in my opinion. It is the best flavor/mass produced coil combo I have found.
 

skamaria

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Hey all.....has anyone verified if the Triton mini clapton coils will work in the kabuki?
I've used them on my P3 threaded Kabuki, haven't tried on 510 because of reports of problems requiring you to swap the pin. Honestly, I have not cared for the Clapton coils. Of the Triton Mini coils, I prefer the Kanthal 1.2... the flavor seems better to me. I'll probably just stick with Nautilus coils on the Kabuki.
 

GeekyGeezer

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Hey all.....has anyone verified if the Triton mini clapton coils will work in the kabuki?

Apparently the base section where the coil mounts is different on the 510 version. The P3 and Z2 have more room to work with. In my case, the mini Tritons absolutely do not work in a 510 model. Their pin is larger and I couldn't get the coil seated all the way. It's enough for the tank to screw on (leaving a slight gap at the bottom) but not enough to make contact with the mod's center pin.

But I am running them in P3 and Z2 versions. Sometimes for a few puffs I think I really like the clapton but most of the time it just seems a bit less flavorful and concentrated than the Nautilus. That larger bottom pin has larger holes in it, as does the coil itself. And the diameter of the coil itself is visually larger than the on in the Nautilus. I'm thinking that's why it may seem airier to me.

As for the NI 200s, I only got a single box of them and now cannot find it. I did use a coil or two. I don't remember details other than I remember not being very impressed. I put the box aside (wish I could remember where) and went back to the Vaporsharks.

From the very few reports so far, I've seen people rave about the claptons; Zen doesn't like the triton mini coils at all; and as for me they aren't my favorite right now.

Edit: I must take way too long to compose these things. While I was typing you received two very good (and much more concise) replies.
 

aldenf

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