Anyone try the Aspire clearos/tanks yet?

[Pur3Rush]

Response to previous post questions, forgive the format, its sleepytime
However, I'm curious of a few things...

If it is truly an air-flow issue, and I'm not saying it's not in my case.. why is it that my iClear30, which appears to use the same air-flow design at the same measurements as the Aspire Nova & Mini, works fine on my PV, yet the Aspires don't?

Shouldn't both work equally good/bad?


Good question. Lets take a look under the hood. Remember, we're still working under the assumption that vaping is similar to the car theory. Heat, juice, Air = Spark, Gas, Air

What's the cheapest way to get more performance out of your car?? Upgrade the air intake..

Under the hood: Get your iclear30, and Apire BDC Vivi's side by side fully assembled. Then turn them upside down. What do you see??

Air Intake 1. 510 Center Pin
1. Aspire: Small Hole
2. iclear30: Larger Hole

iclear 30 = 1
Aspire = 0

Air Intake 2. 2 Holes on 510 shaft
iclear 30 = 1
Aspire = 1
Note: The Aspire shaft holes are slightly larger

Air Intake 3. Grooves cut into the bottom of the tank cap, allowing access to 510 shaft holes

iclear 30= 1
Aspire = 0

Summary: The iclear is clearly getting significantly more air. It has larger air intake openings, and more access to air. The aspire suffers because the stock hole is small, and the shaft holes have no air access at all. Even when screwed onto 510 to 510 adapter, you're simply lengthening the small air intake. It's like breathing through a straw, then making the straw longer. Air intake is still poor. Poke a bunch of holes in the staw and the intake is wide open...

Also, I have tried a 510-to-510 adaptor, which raises up the topper -- however, same issues


Finally, can anybody explain the silicone taste & smell from these Aspires? It's not burnt, but it can be tasted while vaping, and smelled while disassembled.. And yes, this is both before & after multiple washings...


This was covered in one of rip trippers coil videos. The silicone taste and smell comes from one of the coil leads being on the verge of a short. This happens when the mass produced coils leads are assembled too close to each other. The lead starts to get extremely hot due to it's orientation and literally burns through the rubber grommet membrane. Hence the burnt taste and smell. If you keep trying to use it, eventually the coil is going to short out and die.

Verification: you tube, rip trippers, coil building tutorials, rebuilding the aspire bdc, scroll to 3:30

 

[Pur3Rush]

The tank airflow controller available at gotvapes, vermillion (i think thats what it is) and other retailers adds those grooves on the botttom of the iclear 30 to the top, and they are larger.

 

[Sambuca]

The tank airflow controller available at gotvapes, vermillion (i think thats what it is) and other retailers adds those grooves on the botttom of the iclear 30 to the top, and they are larger.
View attachment 307106

welcome to the thread, Pur3Rush. i got my air flow controllers from vermillion. the difference they make is incredible! thanks for adding to the thread!

 

[Gato del Jugo]

Thanks again for your post..

Air Intake 1. 510 Center Pin
1. Aspire: Small Hole
2. iclear30: Larger Hole

Maybe we have different versions of 1 or both, but I'm seeing the same size..

This was covered in one of rip trippers coil videos. The silicone taste and smell comes from one of the coil leads being on the verge of a short. This happens when the mass produced coils leads are assembled too close to each other. The lead starts to get extremely hot due to it's orientation and literally burns through the rubber grommet membrane. Hence the burnt taste and smell. If you keep trying to use it, eventually the coil is going to short out and die.

Verification: you tube, rip trippers, coil building tutorials, rebuilding the aspire bdc, scroll to 3:30

It's more than that, though.. I'm counting 4 separate silicone pieces even before taking apart the head... 1 on the mouth-piece, 2 on the head, and 1 on the base. They all stink strongly of silicone when unassembled.. and I can taste it (*not* burnt) while vaping. I believe there may be a couple more silicone pieces inside the head.


Even if I were interested in rebuidling these coils, and getting the air-flow controller.. there's still the silicone issue, which I don't experience from non-Aspires.

I don't think these Aspires are for me...

 

[Errol]

Good info there, Errol. I mentioned early in the thread that I found out from another member that these make great drippers doing exactly as you stated.

I have had excellent results but, I use a 70/30 blend. I think that I have seen folks in this thread mention using 100% Vg and getting good results but, I am not positive about that.

I have been using nothing but my nautilus since I got them.

My first year of vaping was with 100% VG but it proved to be too thick for many of my aplications. To thin it down I went to a 50/50 mix that has been reasonable as a universal mix. I may try a batch with more PG to see if a thinner fluid will help with these heads.

Curious how you folks are cleaning your coils, the soak, dry burn and such? Are you removing the metal coil cover to clean them? That's the only way I can imagine one could get them thoroughly clean.

Errol

 

[Sambuca]

My first year of vaping was with 100% VG but it proved to be too thick for many of my aplications. To thin it down I went to a 50/50 mix that has been reasonable as a universal mix. I may try a batch with more PG to see if a thinner fluid will help with these heads.

Curious how you folks are cleaning your coils, the soak, dry burn and such? Are you removing the metal coil cover to clean them? That's the only way I can imagine one could get them thoroughly clean.

Errol

i do a long soak with the occasional hot rinse. when i have a pile. i do a 24 hour polydent soak, followed by another 24 soak, with repeated hot rinses. then air dry near the heater. i don't remove anything from the units.

 

[salemgold]

My first year of vaping was with 100% VG but it proved to be too thick for many of my aplications. To thin it down I went to a 50/50 mix that has been reasonable as a universal mix. I may try a batch with more PG to see if a thinner fluid will help with these heads.

Curious how you folks are cleaning your coils, the soak, dry burn and such? Are you removing the metal coil cover to clean them? That's the only way I can imagine one could get them thoroughly clean.

Errol

I used a 50/50 blend for a long time. Actually it was 45 PG 5DW 50 VG. It worked well but the VG makes me very congested.

I rinse my coils every few days under hot running water and this helps to prevent them from gunking up in the first place. Once I get several that need a good cleaning, I drop them in boiling water. Boil for about 5 minutes, remove from heat and let sit in the hot water until the water cools. Then I soak them in PGA (pure grain alcohol) for about an hour and sometimes overnight. Lay them out on paper towels and they dry very quickly. Excellent method for removing any gunk from the coils IMO

 

[Errol]

I used a 50/50 blend for a long time. Actually it was 45 PG 5DW 50 VG. It worked well but the VG makes me very congested.

I rinse my coils every few days under hot running water and this helps to prevent them from gunking up in the first place. Once I get several that need a good cleaning, I drop them in boiling water. Boil for about 5 minutes, remove from heat and let sit in the hot water until the water cools. Then I soak them in PGA (pure grain alcohol) for about an hour and sometimes overnight. Lay them out on paper towels and they dry very quickly. Excellent method for removing any gunk from the coils IMO

Have you ever removed the metal cover to see how your coils look. Getting the cover off is easy enough but steady hands are required to replace the coil wrap and the metal cover over the coil wrap smoothly. My hands aren't that steady at 78 so getting the coil wrap on smoothly so the cap could be replaced easily was a trifle irritating.

Errol

 

[salemgold]

Have you ever removed the metal cover to see how your coils look. Getting the cover off is easy enough but steady hands are required to replace the coil wrap and the metal cover over the coil wrap smoothly. My hands aren't that steady at 78 so getting the coil wrap on smoothly so the cap could be replaced easily was a trifle irritating.

Errol

I have not done that after a cleaning. I did have one get stuck in the air tube when i first started using the nautilus. I had to use small pliers to get it out. Once it came out, the coil came out of the tube (head?) It was pretty dark looking but, I think that I had burnt that one by vaping too high with it.

I have not actually had to clean many of these aspire coils. The rinsing and keeping them from getting gunked to start with has worked well for me. Plus, I vape clear juice using low flavor %

These do not like to be used any higher than about 3.5V from my experience though. But, they taste and work well at 3.5V for me.

Wow, you are doing well, Errol! My mom will be 77 next month. I finally got her some disposable ecigs to use. I could not even imagine her using these. Sadly, she still smokes though. I figure if the disposables at least help her to cut back, that is a good thing

 

[MacTechVpr]

...This was covered in one of rip trippers coil videos. The silicone taste and smell comes from one of the coil leads being on the verge of a short. This happens when the mass produced coils leads are assembled too close to each other. The lead starts to get extremely hot due to it's orientation and literally burns through the rubber grommet membrane. Hence the burnt taste and smell. If you keep trying to use it, eventually the coil is going to short out and die.

Right on pur, 2++ really great posts and observations. And the silicones I suspect just mask this while allowing the muted flavor and performance as I posted to my blog today. There's really no way to fully overcome this but to try to learn to rebuild as tightly as possible which is not hard and pay attention to proper electrical principles.

No mystery to this. A D/C circuit is not rocket science. These devices fail or underperform largely because of moisture faults, termination error and lack of proper electrical symmetry. Applies very much to factory coil assemblies, hugely, and our own rebuilds. Simply start doing it right and vaping is great on the most basic clearo. Just got to keep it dry and tight.

But getting body mechanics right can be a little daunting to some. Technique is important. Check out my blog. If you see what I mean, help me get folks building good coils. And tension really sets the build on the right track. I'd like to see everybody vaping better right now.

Good luck pur.

 

[salemgold]

I saw a post somewhere complete with pictures showing that there is no way for the Nautilus coils to touch either other or the seals. I can't quote the details but when i find it, I will post back.

I used to use efferdent ( not polident!) to clean attys and coils. The boiling and then soaking in 191 proof PGA works much better IMO Plus, if you are going to use the efferdent, don't get the mint flavored ones. That seems to linger no matter what.

Oops, I was thinking Polygrip. Never heard of Polident

All comes down to what works best for you that counts though.

 

[Errol]

I saw a post somewhere complete with pictures showing that there is no way for the Nautilus coils to touch either other or the seals. I can't quote the details but when i find it, I will post back.

Will have to agree with you. I doubt the one I took apart would be the exception but the way it was built wouldn't allow any legs to short against anything. As I mentioned before the top coil has insulating sleeves on the legs and the cavity the legs go through has an insulating sleeve in it. That together with the none resistance legs being welded to the resistance wire (a task not many are capable of doing) that makes up the coil make these coils difficult to duplicate, let alone improve on.

Will say once again if anyone has doubts about the coils just drip a few drops down the air tube through the mouthpiece and take a few puffs, if the coils are good one will know it immediately.

Hope you can find and post the pictures you saw so more people can see how well these coils are built.

Errol

 

[Sambuca]

WorldofVapes just lowered the price of the Nautilus coils to $11.95!

Aspire Nautilus Coils (Pack of 5) - $11.95 - WORLDofVAPE

 

[salemgold]

WorldofVapes just lowered the price of the Nautilus coils to $11.95!

Aspire Nautilus Coils (Pack of 5) - $11.95 - WORLDofVAPE

MyFreedomSmokes has them for $11.95 as well.

 

[Sambuca]

MyFreedomSmokes has them for $11.95 as well.

i think the price drop is to compete with MFS. MFS is out of stock, though.

 

[salemgold]

i think the price drop is to compete with MFS. MFS is out of stock, though.

Oh. Okay. That did not last long. They also had the 10% off coupon so i figured that they would go quickly. I buy mine in group buys so don't pay alot of attention to the sales.

As soon as VJ reads this and posts it, WOV will be OOS as well