My mechs have gone into my vapeoccalypse stash. They’ve got their problems but they do last practically forever.
Apparently I need new batteries...again...3000mah just ain't cutting it
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@Shadav , With the amount of juice you go through you obviously vape a lot. That tells me you are going to use a lot of battery power to enjoy that juice, which is fine. But it also tells me that your batteries are just not going to have the longevity of a casual vaper and you should expect them to degrade at a rate commensurate with your juice intake, unless you have a very large battery stable to rotate through.
Batteries are a consumable piece of gear just like cotton and coils and should be factored into your vape budget as such really. Depending on your vaping habits and size of your battery stable they can be consumed fairly quickly and the higher your gear draws amps the quicker degradation will occur. Unlike coils and cotton you won't get a burned taste that makes you need to change coils or cotton, but you will get unsatisfactory performance and longevity off a charge. And it's subtle at first making it hard to notice until the performance is really unsatisfactory. Just buy more batteries more often to match your vaping style and I think you'll be much more satisfied in the long run and have a better vaping experience. I know I have been surprised when I buy new batteries, being the same model and manufacturer as the old one, to see how much long and stronger the new cells perform. The clue I look for now that the battery is degrading on a regulated device is the battery meter on the screen. If it only shows a slight sliver of battery left and it still give a good vape that battery is doing just fine. If that sliver is at about 15% and drops down to nothing while vaping I know that battery is degraded and rather than put up with that knowing it will only get worse I will replace it and be happy. This is with a power level of 35~45w that I typically vape with, but the same theory and method would work with any watt level you vape at with different values of the battery meter. If your device is regulated check this with a new fully charged battery to determine what the lowest vape meter reading is that gives you a good vape when the battery level drops as a guide to what a degraded cell will look like when you see that change. So I don't bother writing dates on the battery because I don't vape with the same device all the time nor do I vape the same with the same frequency all the time. While the purchase date is an interesting metric to see, it doesn't really tell me much about battery health.
And sometimes I have had such a mix and match of age, manufacturers, and specs on my batteries it was just worth recycling them all and getting a fresh batch of quality cells in to start fresh. And it was well worth it. Always go to Mooch's excellent list before purchasing just to see what his testing has shown about what you think is a good cell. His work is really good and very much appreciated.
Batteries are a consumable piece of gear just like cotton and coils and should be factored into your vape budget as such really. Depending on your vaping habits and size of your battery stable they can be consumed fairly quickly and the higher your gear draws amps the quicker degradation will occur. Unlike coils and cotton you won't get a burned taste that makes you need to change coils or cotton, but you will get unsatisfactory performance and longevity off a charge. And it's subtle at first making it hard to notice until the performance is really unsatisfactory. Just buy more batteries more often to match your vaping style and I think you'll be much more satisfied in the long run and have a better vaping experience. I know I have been surprised when I buy new batteries, being the same model and manufacturer as the old one, to see how much long and stronger the new cells perform. The clue I look for now that the battery is degrading on a regulated device is the battery meter on the screen. If it only shows a slight sliver of battery left and it still give a good vape that battery is doing just fine. If that sliver is at about 15% and drops down to nothing while vaping I know that battery is degraded and rather than put up with that knowing it will only get worse I will replace it and be happy. This is with a power level of 35~45w that I typically vape with, but the same theory and method would work with any watt level you vape at with different values of the battery meter. If your device is regulated check this with a new fully charged battery to determine what the lowest vape meter reading is that gives you a good vape when the battery level drops as a guide to what a degraded cell will look like when you see that change. So I don't bother writing dates on the battery because I don't vape with the same device all the time nor do I vape the same with the same frequency all the time. While the purchase date is an interesting metric to see, it doesn't really tell me much about battery health.
And sometimes I have had such a mix and match of age, manufacturers, and specs on my batteries it was just worth recycling them all and getting a fresh batch of quality cells in to start fresh. And it was well worth it. Always go to Mooch's excellent list before purchasing just to see what his testing has shown about what you think is a good cell. His work is really good and very much appreciated.
FWIW, I use a Brother P-Touch label maker for battery labels and DIY labels. It's nice to have the purchase date on the cell for reference. I have a few that I bought before I started labeling them and I can't tell you how old they are, but I can get a rough estimate of their condition by the internal resistance my charger rates them at.
I'm conservative with lithium cells. When they hit 100 mΩ they get relegated to one of my 5W LED flashlights where the amp draw is minimal. Might as well get some extra use out of them.
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Lack of P-Touch means I am not so elegant. Using a Sharpie and “dry” painters tape, I mark the date and whether the cell is married or not, ie: 1 of 2, or 1 of 3 for my 3 cell mods. Also keep a spreadsheet that documents the same plus the retailer where I purchased them from and any notes should performance diminish. The spreadsheet is not necessary, just my way of keeping tabs on my batteries.
I do date my batteries but I also only order from one supplier so can always just check my account history. Personally I think since you are a chain vaper you just need to invest in more setups to rotate.
How well batteries charge in a mod depends heavily on the quality of the internal electronics in that particular mod and the port on the mod. I’ve got a therion which has a DNA75c in it which I lightheartedly assume is good ‘nuff electronics but has a microUSB2 port which is not. My solution was to put a magnetic microUSB2 cable on it and I leave the adapter permanently in the device.
The battery is a PITA to change on that one, so USB charging is easier.
Internal resistance is not a rough way to tell your batteries condition, it's one of the best ways I think. This is especially true if you know the original IR of the battery. Most people don't have a meter that will test IR accurately and most vape specific chargers don't have that feature, wish they did that would be great. Which meter are you using to measure IR? I have some high end chargers (read expensive) for one of my other hobbies, FPV drone racing, but I've never made an adapter to measure vape batteries.
BTW, I'm a P-Touch junkie too and don't even want to think of how much money I've spent on different colors and styles of tapes. But go big or go home right? But that I can write off with my business, even though I use it for home more than anything.
It very simple to make a field measurement of internal resistance of a INR battery.
I use a power resistor and a 4 1/2 digit multimeter.
Example. Resistor 0.39 Ohm. Current 10 A.
1. Measure voltage of fully charged battery, call it V1.
2. Connect 0.39 Ohm 50W resistor in parallel to battery.
3. Measure voltage across battery with resistor, call it V2.
4. Internal resistance is (V1 - V2) / 10.
Note this measure IR at 10 Amp draw. You can use a 3.9 Ohm 5 W resistor for the same test at 1 Amp, which is more standard. Don't divide by 10 in this case. The test has a 10% tolerance.
I use a power resistor and a 4 1/2 digit multimeter.
Example. Resistor 0.39 Ohm. Current 10 A.
1. Measure voltage of fully charged battery, call it V1.
2. Connect 0.39 Ohm 50W resistor in parallel to battery.
3. Measure voltage across battery with resistor, call it V2.
4. Internal resistance is (V1 - V2) / 10.
Note this measure IR at 10 Amp draw. You can use a 3.9 Ohm 5 W resistor for the same test at 1 Amp, which is more standard. Don't divide by 10 in this case. The test has a 10% tolerance.
I understood basically none of that. You wouldn’t also happen to speak “Luddite” would you?
Lots of good advice and info so far, but I'm going to be "that guy"..
Ditch the Capo and get a Pico Squeeze 2 (3.2V cutoff) with NCR20700B batteries (stay below 20 W). Of course, my setup isn't the same as yours, but I can go through 2 bottles on one battery -- approx 1000 2-3 second puffs using TC with a 0.8 Ohm single spaced SS coil. For me, that's a full day, or more. Perhaps half a day for you...
Ditch the Capo and get a Pico Squeeze 2 (3.2V cutoff) with NCR20700B batteries (stay below 20 W). Of course, my setup isn't the same as yours, but I can go through 2 bottles on one battery -- approx 1000 2-3 second puffs using TC with a 0.8 Ohm single spaced SS coil. For me, that's a full day, or more. Perhaps half a day for you...
lol well partly I've been chain vaping like crazy because I've been stuck home sick for over a month....just now getting better, returning to work on monday, so won't be chain vaping as much anymore, well except when I get home from work 
but still need batteries that will last, I often have to drive 4 hours to job sites and then back....can't really be bringing an arsenal of batteries with me every time 
went ahead and got 4 more sony vtc6's
I think single battery mods just aren't for me anymore
but still need batteries that will last, I often have to drive 4 hours to job sites and then back....can't really be bringing an arsenal of batteries with me every time went ahead and got 4 more sony vtc6's
I think single battery mods just aren't for me anymore
My Zanflare C4 charger measures internal resistance during charging. IR is one of the values in rotation if you press the selection button on a channel. It also shows how many milliamps were restored to the cell during charging, but that's only from the 3.2v-3.5v cutoff point where the mod shut down. It's just a representative number.
Amazon has it.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Za...s=zanflare+c4&qid=1553430109&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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It's actually easier to hand write labels. I already had the P-touch handheld and use it for DIY bottles. I bought a larger USB Brother label printer that plugs into a PC, but it's easier to use the small one. The advantage of the larger one is that you can create and save labels on a PC or laptop. Once you do that it's a matter of picking the label and editing the date before printing. It prints from a roll of pre-cut labels, cuts it, and spits it out.
Someone should create a voice app for printers. I'd like to be able to verbally create a label instead of using the tiny keys to type out the label. Alexa and Dish Network make it happen for voice commands.
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There are tho many who successfully use pass-trough with Pico's tho w/o issue....
With Picos I just swap out the cell unless I'm stuck away from home.
I charge my Hcigar DNA 75W from a 1A USB source sometimes. If I'm in a hurry I'll replace the cell with a charged one, but it's a pain. The battery plug threads are too fine to remove and replace easily. If you get them started on the first try, it's pure luck. Hcigar could learn a lot about battery plug threading from GeekVape.
I charge my Hcigar DNA 75W from a 1A USB source sometimes. If I'm in a hurry I'll replace the cell with a charged one, but it's a pain. The battery plug threads are too fine to remove and replace easily. If you get them started on the first try, it's pure luck. Hcigar could learn a lot about battery plug threading from GeekVape.
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This is a surprisingly common thing. Someone needs to do a decent tether mod that works off a 12v cigarette lighter port for people like truckers and stuff. Something that won’t simply self destruct the way those cheapass tethers did. What seems to be the current solution is USB pass through. It’s kinda hard on batteries though.lol well partly I've been chain vaping like crazy because I've been stuck home sick for over a month....just now getting better, returning to work on monday, so won't be chain vaping as much anymore, well except when I get home from work
went ahead and got 4 more sony vtc6's
I think single battery mods just aren't for me anymore
holy crap.... you got me interested but not at $60 lmfao
looking to invest in a better charger now I guess instead of my 3 basic 2 bay chargers
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