Apparently I need new batteries...again...3000mah just ain't cutting it

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bombastinator

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All the Admodus mods I have had got really good battery life. I imagine the Drone would be even better. dna chips are known to give you a lot of runtime. If you go for the Topside then I would suggest getting some 40T Samsung batteries. They are 4000 mah and 30A.
Drone is OK. Maybe even good. The DNA75c does waste a good bit of power though. It has a crappy sleep mode. You turn a mod for real off though and it doesn’t taste any. As far as I can tell that’s the only significant difference in mod power usage: How much extra power the chip uses when it’s not producing vapor. It’s not all that much unless you leave the device on but unused for long periods of time, which doesn’t seem to be happening in this case.
 

Eskie

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All the Admodus mods I have had got really good battery life. I imagine the Drone would be even better. DNA chips are known to give you a lot of runtime. If you go for the Topside then I would suggest getting some 40T Samsung batteries. They are 4000 mah and 30A.

Tiny clarification. While Samsung does call it a 30A, Mooch's tests placed it at 20A 4000mAh, which is still fine for use. If a true 30A 21700 is needed the 30T is a better choice with true 30A but only 3000 mAh.

As for DNA chips, the 200/250/250c series are all very efficient, something like 97% (I prefer >95%, seems more reasonable). The 75 series are not as efficient, putting them on the order of most average boards out there at around 90%.
 

Skunk!

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Tiny clarification. While Samsung does call it a 30A, Mooch's tests placed it at 20A 4000mAh, which is still fine for use. If a true 30A 21700 is needed the 30T is a better choice with true 30A but only 3000 mAh.

As for DNA chips, the 200/250/250c series are all very efficient, something like 97% (I prefer >95%, seems more reasonable). The 75 series are not as efficient, putting them on the order of most average boards out there at around 90%.
Oh, I thought the Samsung were true to their rating. Well, good to know. I always used the 30T for mechanicals but i guess I have been pushing the 40Ts a bit hard in regulated devices.

Thanks for the info on the DNA boards. I was mostly going by what I heard. My experience with Asmodus has been hit or miss. My Kodama has a parasitic battery drain but the regular Minikin is great on batteries with next to zero drain and long runtime . The Colossal and the Luna have really good runtime for single 18650 devices. I usually get at 2 days from a single battery at 18.5W on the Colossal and at least a day at .55 ohms on the Luna.
For the OP to be going through that many batteries at 20W either it's the mod or they are not breathing any air...
 
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Eskie

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I just went back to Mooch's last recommended battery list and noted he estimated the 40T at 25A, not 20 A, my error and apologies.

Still, in my single 21700 squonks, the 40T holds up really well. With those mods I'm running around 40W and getting over a day and more than 1 bottle of juice from it.
 

Skunk!

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I just went back to Mooch's last recommended battery list and noted he estimated the 40T at 25A, not 20 A, my error and apologies.

Still, in my single 21700 squonks, the 40T holds up really well. With those mods I'm running around 40W and getting over a day and more than 1 bottle of juice from it.
All good. I like to leave 5A headroom anyway. I contradicted myself a bit between my two posts. I should have said all my Asmodus mods get great battety life except the one that was by far the most expensive :)
 

bombastinator

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Tiny clarification. While Samsung does call it a 30A, Mooch's tests placed it at 20A 4000mAh, which is still fine for use. If a true 30A 21700 is needed the 30T is a better choice with true 30A but only 3000 mAh.

As for DNA chips, the 200/250/250c series are all very efficient, something like 97% (I prefer >95%, seems more reasonable). The 75 series are not as efficient, putting them on the order of most average boards out there at around 90%.
Is that while firing or mixed use? I found the big problem with the DNA75c was that if you left it for a day and didn’t vape it at all the battery was like 1/3rd down from doing nothing.
 
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DaveP

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I just went back to Mooch's last recommended battery list and noted he estimated the 40T at 25A, not 20 A, my error and apologies.

Still, in my single 21700 squonks, the 40T holds up really well. With those mods I'm running around 40W and getting over a day and more than 1 bottle of juice from it.

I ordered a couple of 40T's for the Eleaf iStick Pico S 100W that's coming in a few days from FastTech. The 40T scored really well in Mooch's testing, so I should be good with them vaping at 10W.
 

dripster

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out of production as far as I can tell. They’re out of stock almost everywhere. Might be a few around somewhere still though
The Rage Squonk in silver finish is currently in stock at gearbest for only $62.99 (flash sale).
I used to do that. I find I personally prefer piece of mind. If I forget when I bought a battery or the date on it is messed up it doesn’t matter. I can just check it for safety. When I bought a charger with metering I found out I was mostly either throwing them out too early or keeping them dangerously long. If you err on the side of not used up it is going to take a few years to pay off the price difference of the charger in fewer battery purchases. Erring in the other direction is of course dangerous so it’s hard to value it.
I prefer piece of mind too, which is why I recently got the Nitecore UMS4 that I previously mentioned. As an aside, the slots on it are longer than on any of the older models so 20700 and 21700 batteries are much easier to take out of the charger, and, the hump that's on each slider is also much bigger and smoother so as another bonus it doesn't grate against the bottom of the battery.
True. Now if only one knew what those numbers actually were...
Mooch did a video on this particular subject not too long ago; up to a certain point slower charging generally is better for the battery, but I like to have the option to adjust the charging rate in such a way that the charging time matches the amount of time I am able to stay within reach of the charger and awake (for safety) so that I don't charge a battery faster than really is necessary for me.
(im)posters huh? Wow. Still mad I see. Mention that you don’t think supersubohm mechanical mods are so much better than anything else that they’re actually worth dying for, and worse yet prove it, and this guy will grind at it forever it seems.
What makes you think I have ever been mad about anything you posted? You just totally crack me up is all. Super subohming on a mech is nothing more than a personal preference; I am able to get better flavor that way, but it certainly isn't the only factor. As for the safety, .11 ohms on a single battery mech equipped with a Sony VTC5A is significantly above the CDR so it isn't recommended, and, that's why I haven't recommended it to anyone, but if you've watched Minding Your mAhs Ep020 and you've watched it carefully, then you'll know that:
  1. recommending to stay at or below the CDR is necessary for those who are just starting out on a mech, and
  2. the reason why people can learn and then decide to go above the CDR with relative safety in mind is because they're an adult too so there's absolutely no need for you to constantly act childish about it.
I’m going to have to apologize for @dripster here. This one is about me and his personal vendetta it seems. Got to admire the tenacity and conviction though.
Both those chargers are fairly old btw and are actually sometimes more expensive than “intelligent” chargers with similar features. The heat thing might be true though since often old hardware does tend to be more heavily built than new hardware. It becomes a question of which is safer: being able to see what the effects are, or potentially having lower effects.

Gonna have to stop you there. Making claims about potential unmeasurables is one thing, especially when there is a non zero chance you are correct, but threatening fire is something else. I’m gonna need to see some data.
How.
Much.?
Are we talking a few hundred degrees (in which case you are clearly correct, and there is a charger maker badly in need of a lawsuit) or a few degrees, in which case such things would be overwhelmed by a simple household thermostat change and you’re simply still angry?
I'm going to apologize for the fact you truly are childish. There's a reason why Mooch recommends to put a charger on a ceramic tile at least till charging is finished; fire ......ant plastics aren't completely fireproof and still give off smoke when something melts inside the charger, and, a charger designed such that it runs cooler increases the chance of giving less smoke─not always, but usually does give less smoke if it burns out.
 
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Shadav

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I ordered a couple of 40T's for the Eleaf iStick Pico S 100W that's coming in a few days from FastTech. The 40T scored really well in Mooch's testing, so I should be good with them vaping at 10W.
the golisi s35 is another one that scored well and I'm debating to get but instead I just stuck with my 18650 sony vtc6's lol
but if you'd like to try one ;)
Golisi S35 IMR 21700 40A 3750mAh Battery - $6.99
 

bombastinator

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The Rage Squonk in silver finish is currently in stock at gearbest for only $62.99 (flash sale).

I prefer piece of mind too, which is why I recently got the Nitecore UMS4 that I previously mentioned. As an aside, the slots on it are longer than on any of the older models so 20700 and 21700 batteries are much easier to take out of the charger, and, the hump that's on each slider is also much bigger and smoother so as another bonus it doesn't grate against the bottom of the battery.

Mooch did a video on this particular subject not too long ago; up to a certain point slower charging generally is better for the battery, but I like to have the option to adjust the charging rate in such a way that the charging time matches the amount of time I am able to stay within reach of the charger and awake (for safety) so that I don't charge a battery faster than really is necessary for me.

What makes you think I have ever been mad about anything you posted? You just totally crack me up is all. Super subohming on a mech is nothing more than a personal preference; I am able to get better flavor that way, but it certainly isn't the only factor. As for the safety, .11 ohms on a single battery mech equipped with a Sony VTC5A is significantly above the CDR so it isn't recommended, and, that's why I haven't recommended it to anyone, but if you've watched Minding Your mAhs Ep020 and you've watched it carefully, then you'll know that:
  1. recommending to stay at or below the CDR is necessary for those who are just starting out on a mech, and
  2. the reason why people can learn and then decide to go above the CDR with relative safety in mind is because they're an adult too so there's absolutely no need for you to constantly act childish about it.

I'm going to apologize for the fact you truly are childish. There's a reason why Mooch recommends to put a charger on a ceramic tile at least till charging is finished; fire ......ant plastics aren't completely fireproof and still give off smoke when something melts inside the charger, and, a charger designed such that it runs cooler increases the chance of giving less smoke─not always, but usually does give less smoke if it burns out.
What makes me think that? Oh, I don’t know.. calling me names, making quasi-veiled references to my personal character, you threatened me with destruction at least once I believe. It kind of entertaining actually as you generally attack me for not doing enough research on a subjgiven subject (often not incorrectly) but the alternative stuff you provide is generally even worse.

As a terrific example of such you contradicted youself as to your opinions about me in your last post. When you say “I don’t do this thing” just before or after you do it it just doesn’t play well.
 
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score69

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I ordered a couple of 40T's for the Eleaf iStick Pico S 100W that's coming in a few days from FastTech. The 40T scored really well in Mooch's testing, so I should be good with them vaping at 10W.
I vape usually around 30w, sometimes a few more/less. I have been using Sanyo 20700Bs exclusively for the last year, believe it's a 15A, 4200maH battery. This would be another good cell for you. The 40T should be great in the Pico S though.

I have some of the 20700A, and 2070C as well, but only use them with unregulated devices. I build well within safety for a 20700B, but prefer to have more headspace with unregulated devices.

I picked up a few 40T as well, haven't tried them yet. I can chain vape all day with the 20700B at 30w with the Pulse 80, and can get until late afternoon/early evening before needing to swap cells. One 20700B should last you more than a day easily.

The 40T is a very good battery too per reports though. Definitely more flexible if you may need the higher amp draw here or there. The 20700B is a very overlooked/underrated battery though for low wattage use and they are pretty inexpensive these days with the newer higher performance cells coming out.

I'm a big fan of the 20700B if you can't tell, lol.
 

DaveP

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the golisi s35 is another one that scored well and I'm debating to get but instead I just stuck with my 18650 sony vtc6's lol
but if you'd like to try one ;)
Golisi S35 IMR 21700 40A 3750mAh Battery - $6.99

I like to stick with cells made by the brand owner's own factory. There's so much rewrapping with lithium cells that you never know if the cell you bought was actually made in a factory where the QC and manufacturing process produces a safe quality product.

I often wonder how many cells that go into failure mode in the videos we see are knockoffs. Any cell that's used above its rating is subject to meltdown, but that can happen with the best cells if they are pushed beyond design limits.

It's sad to hear about new vapers who experience cell failure with a combination that should have never been put into a mech.
 

Eskie

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the golisi s35 is another one that scored well and I'm debating to get but instead I just stuck with my 18650 sony vtc6's lol
but if you'd like to try one ;)
Golisi S35 IMR 21700 40A 3750mAh Battery - $6.99

The only issue I see is it will take a very long time for those to arrive. Overseas shipments of batteries is a major reason for slow delivery due to shipping restrictions. The price is good, but for a few dollars more a US distributor can get it to you in a week (or faster for really crazy express shipping prices on batteries).
 

Str8vision

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....The 40T should be great in the Pico S though....

I use Samsung's 21700 40T's in a Pico squeeze 2. I vape at 42 watts going through 9mls of juice a day and a single 40T lasts just about the entire day. Coming from Sony's 18650 VTC-6's, the 40T was a huge improvement, I highly recommend them for anyone who can use a 21700 cell.
 

dripster

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What makes me think that? Oh, I don’t know.. calling me names, making quasi-veiled references to my personal character, you threatened me with destruction at least once I believe. It kind of entertaining actually as you generally attack me for not doing enough research on a subjgiven subject (often not incorrectly) but the alternative stuff you provide is generally even worse.

As a terrific example of such you contradicted youself as to your opinions about me in your last post. When you say “I don’t do this thing” just before or after you do it it just doesn’t play well.
Do you mean to tell me you haven't been calling me names? :lol: I'm not just making quasi-veiled references to your personal character; I'm also still calling you out for the fact you got caught with the unscrupulous pretense of having been judging entire coil types merely by claiming advanced coil builds don't give more than 10 percent better flavor when the reality is that you haven't actually even tried to vape on a decent set of alien coils before, after which a legion of trolls immediately jumped in to desperately try to obscure that. If I ever threatened you with destruction, it's because you're so funny that you're indestructible.

Finally, in my last post I never said “I don’t do this thing” just before or after I did it. I simply never did this thing and that's it.
 

bombastinator

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Do you mean to tell me you haven't been calling me names? :lol: I'm not just making quasi-veiled references to your personal character; I'm also still calling you out for the fact you got caught with the unscrupulous pretense of having been judging entire coil types merely by claiming advanced coil builds don't give more than 10 percent better flavor when the reality is that you haven't actually even tried to vape on a decent set of alien coils before, after which a legion of trolls immediately jumped in to desperately try to obscure that. If I ever threatened you with destruction, it's because you're so funny that you're indestructible.

Finally, in my last post I never said “I don’t do this thing” just before or after I did it. I simply never did this thing and that's it.
And you got taken down fairly hard as I recall when you did it the first time. And not even by me. Your argument iirc was that the only way to be allowed to have an opinion was to vape every different wrapping variant of exotic coil rather than treating them as a fairly homogenous group, and that since I chose a store bought fused Clapton rather than something hand made makes the entire concept invalid.
This argument you keep forcing me to is completely irrelevant to th OP’s question. My guess at the moment is that you keep bringing this thing up though initially sideways attacks in public question section is for maximum visibility.

I think I’m going to request a mod remove both our posts from it and place them in a separate more appropriate place. This garbage has no place on someone else’s post. It’s more appropriate. As I recall you’re terrified of outside though.
 

dripster

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And you got taken down fairly hard as I recall when you did it the first time. And not even by me. Your argument iirc was that the only way to be allowed to have an opinion was to vape every different wrapping variant of exotic coil rather than treating them as a fairly homogenous group, and that since I chose a store bought fused Clapton rather than something hand made makes the entire concept invalid.
This argument you keep forcing me to is completely irrelevant to th OP’s question. My guess at the moment is that you keep bringing this thing up though initially sideways attacks in public question section is for maximum visibility.

I think I’m going to request a mod remove both our posts from it and place them in a separate more appropriate place. This garbage has no place on someone else’s post. It’s more appropriate. As I recall you’re terrified of outside though.
I got taken down fairly hard for what? For merely stating my own personal opinions? I have gotten fairly used to that on here. But you weren't merely stating your own personal opinion, as instead, you were judging the flavor performance of that which you've never actually even tried before, and, no matter how hard you keep trying to move the flagposts, you still aren't gaining your lost credibility back. So by all means, keep digging the hole. As for what's relevant, speaking of who posts garbage, I think the fact you got caught posting such garbage is very much relevant to anyone who wants to more easily see who posts garbage. For maximum visibility of course.
 
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