Are the Samsung 25R's safe at .15 ohms using an IPV4?

[Completely Average]

Can it be done?

Yes, people do it all of the time.

Is it safe?

That's HIGHLY debatable. You're technically exceeding the amp limit of the batteries you're using. 30A batteries are what is recommended for the mod. Samsung 25Rs have been tested at 30A and have performed well at 30A, but you're exceeding the safety limits that Samsung have designated for that battery. Ultimately the choice is up to you if you want to use them or not.

 

[Completely Average]

As others have stated. What's the point of building so low on a regulated mod?

What's the point of building so low on ANY mod?

Now take that point and add the ability to maintain steady performance of the build without any voltage drop, and there is your reason for building it for a regulated mod.

 

[Monotremata]

35a is the max output. 25a is the max input (what you draw from your batteries).

As others have stated. What's the point of building so low on a regulated mod?

I still dont get it either.. People think sub-ohming is still some magic trick to putting out more wattage. Sure, in a MECH where thats your only source of control. If your mod already puts out the wattage you want, then just set it and forget it. All youre doing by lowering the resistance is actually making the battery work harder to get to that wattage than it would if you just upped the resistance in the coil and set it to it.

To the OP, while youre at Steam Engine, check out the Mod Range calculator as well. Find the preset for the IPV and bam. It will give you a nice 'median' resistance to get the most efficiency out of your mod. There is absolutely no reason to kill your battery quicker just to use a lower resistance.

 

[dom qp]

I still dont get it either.. People think sub-ohming is still some magic trick to putting out more wattage. Sure, in a MECH where thats your only source of control. If your mod already puts out the wattage you want, then just set it and forget it. All youre doing by lowering the resistance is actually making the battery work harder to get to that wattage than it would if you just upped the resistance in the coil and set it to it.

To the OP, while youre at Steam Engine, check out the Mod Range calculator as well. Find the preset for the IPV and bam. It will give you a nice 'median' resistance to get the most efficiency out of your mod. There is absolutely no reason to kill your battery quicker just to use a lower resistance.

uhhhh

Lowering resistance is how you increase the wattage without destroying your coil. Do you mean voltage?

The difference between a regular coil and sub ohm coil at the same voltage is the surface area you get by using lower gauge kanthal.

I.e. We go sub ohm to get more power and be able to use bigger coils, which translates into more juice being vaporized, which means more vapor and more flavour.

This is why we need higher amperage batteries.

 

[yuseffuhler]

I'd like to throw this out here really quick. I've ran my Derringer at 40 watts on a single 2.1 ohm coil. It was a nice tasty vape, not too much heat and great flavor. You can absolutely build higher resistance builds and get great results. Sure you could build super low, but it's not necessary. If you're reaching the limits of your batteries, you might want to reconsider your build.

 

[MasteroftheVape]

So I have many VTC4's but would like some extra battery life. I would go the the VTC5's but I can't find them any where I can trust. This brings me to the 25R's. My understanding is that they are 20A continuous battery and pulse at 100A. I know that running at .15 ohms goes past the amp limit but still was wondering if it was safe or not by using a regulated box.

The 25r would fire that build fine, but you'd loose battery life with them. The reason the 25r is 20amp rated is because after 20 amp, it's efficiency starts dropping.

I don't have the graphs in front of me but just say if you fire at 20amps, the battery is 99%efficient (only 1%) of power lost to heat. If you fire them and 30 amps, they are 90% efficient, 40 amps, 80% and so on.

The vtc series would acrually last longer than 25r because at higher discharge it's efficiency curve doesn't drop nearly as fast as the samsung.

All that said the ipv mod is regulated. There is 0 point to build that low on a regulated device, it will actually be worse because the chip in the mod has to work harder than if you made a .8 build. Low ohm builds are for mechs and temp control, if you use neither they are far less efficient than say .8-1.2 depending on the chip.

A .1 at 50 watts hits the same as .8 at 50 watts. It's all 50 watts, the only difference is how hard the battery,chip have to work to get it there.

 

[Completely Average]

A .1 at 50 watts hits the same as .8 at 50 watts. It's all 50 watts, the only difference is how hard the battery,chip have to work to get it there.

That is categorically false.

And I'll give you a real-world example to prove it.


Take a Kanger Subohm tank with the .5ohm coil and a Freemax Starre with it's .5ohm coil. Set your wattage to 25 watts. Then explain to me why the Kanger works just fine while the Starre barely puts out any vapor at all. Then crank the wattage up to 60W and tell me why the Kanger gives nothing but burnt hits while the Starre produces massive clouds and probably the best flavor you've ever tasted from a subohm tank.

Both are using the same .5ohm resistance coil and both set to the same wattage, so why the drastic difference in how they work?


Wattage is a meaningless term when taken by itself. Ohms is a meaningless term taken by itself. Even the two combined are meaningless terms if that's all you're taking into consideration. Airflow, wicking, wire size, coil size, and build style, all have major influences on how things work, and two different coil builds can give two drastically different results even at the same wattage and same resistance. I can easily make a .08ohm build that simply wouldn't work on a mech at all because it contained so much metal that a mech wouldn't be able to heat it.

 

[MasteroftheVape]

That is categorically false.

And I'll give you a real-world example to prove it.


Take a Kanger Subohm tank with the .5ohm coil and a Freemax Starre with it's .5ohm coil. Set your wattage to 25 watts. Then explain to me why the Kanger works just fine while the Starre barely puts out any vapor at all. Then crank the wattage up to 60W and tell me why the Kanger gives nothing but burnt hits while the Starre produces massive clouds and probably the best flavor you've ever tasted from a subohm tank.

Both are using the same .5ohm resistance coil and both set to the same wattage, so why the drastic difference in how they work?


Wattage is a meaningless term when taken by itself. Ohms is a meaningless term taken by itself. Even the two combined are meaningless terms if that's all you're taking into consideration. Airflow, wicking, wire size, coil size, and build style, all have major influences on how things work, and two different coil builds can give two drastically different results even at the same wattage and same resistance. I can easily make a .08ohm build that simply wouldn't work on a mech at all because it contained so much metal that a mech wouldn't be able to heat it.

I never claimed all builds were the same, coil wraps and ID do matter based on heat coefficients and wicking ability. Both items listed were .5ohm, the difference between them is the build, not resistance.

If I make a 28g 8 wrap kanthal with 3mm it will ohm out at 1.8ohm.
If I do the exact same build with 26g it will ohm out at 1.2. Both of these builds will hit exactly the same at 50 watts.

The differences you state are related to different type builds@the same ohms, completely different than same build@different ohms.

 

[Dangerous.]

Thank you all for the answers I'll just go ahead and use VTC4's and save my self the hassle.

 

[dc99]

Ooops, you are correct KTM. I fixed it. Was to early

 

[Monotremata]

uhhhh

Lowering resistance is how you increase the wattage without destroying your coil. Do you mean voltage?

The difference between a regular coil and sub ohm coil at the same voltage is the surface area you get by using lower gauge kanthal.

I.e. We go sub ohm to get more power and be able to use bigger coils, which translates into more juice being vaporized, which means more vapor and more flavour.

This is why we need higher amperage batteries.

Watts are watts. Just because sub ohming gives you a lower voltage, the power output is THE SAME. If you've got a regulated mod it makes no difference, 100 watts is 100 watts period. All you're doing by sub ohming on a regulated avp is taxing your battery harder and drawing more amperage to get the same result you can get at a higher resistance with less amps. Running a sub coil on my Sigelei Mini will never give me more than 30w, why shorten my batteries life when I don't need to?

 

[BababooeyHTJ]

Depends on the voltage/wattage. Based on steam engine 20A would be drawn @ 3V on a 0.15 coil.

From the chipset, not the batteries. It would be around 8.3w from the batteries.

 

[BababooeyHTJ]

Watts are watts. Just because sub ohming gives you a lower voltage, the power output is THE SAME. If you've got a regulated mod it makes no difference, 100 watts is 100 watts period. All you're doing by sub ohming on a regulated avp is taxing your battery harder and drawing more amperage to get the same result you can get at a higher resistance with less amps. Running a sub coil on my Sigelei Mini will never give me more than 30w, why shorten my batteries life when I don't need to?

How does the resistance of the coil effect the drain on the batteries? The mod will buck the voltage to what wattage you want. It's what's doing all of the work. The battery doesn't know the difference. 100w=100w. In series median voltage is 7.4v. That's a 13.5a draw from the batteries. Even when the batteries dip down to 3v a piece (6v in series) that's a 16.6a draw on the cells.

Hell, I use 30Qs in my ipv4. They work fine and battery life has been great. Although, I only really use nickel builds. Still, they seem to run cooler than my he2s.

 

[Ryedan]

So I have many VTC4's but would like some extra battery life. I would go to the VTC5's but I can't find them any where I can trust. This brings me to the 25R's. My understanding is that they are 20A continuous battery and pulse at 100A. I know that running at .15 ohms goes past the amp limit but still was wondering if it was safe or not by using a regulated box.

It doesn't matter what the resistance is when you're vaping in VW mode. Here is the Steam Engine battery drain calculator. Leave it set for 'power regulation (VW)', set 'Atomizer resistance' at 0.1 ohms, enter 100 watts for 'Power (wattage) setting' and make the 'Battery voltage' 6 volts (2 batts in series so the volts add up) which is the lowest they will ever be and battery amp draw will be the highest. In the 'Battery drain' area you'll see that battery drain current will be 18.52A each. Change the resistance to 2.0 ohms and you'll see that battery draw is also 18.52A from each. Increase the battery voltage to 8.4V as it will be with fresh batteries and you can see the lower amp draw.

This is not the way it works with mechanical mods or when setting volts in a regulated mod. Battery current draw with a mechanical is highest at 4.2V per battery so use 4.2V with a single battery mod for these calcs. In a VV mod use 3V for a single battery mod as that works the same as in VW. If you set this up in the calculator you'll see that the lower the resistance the higher the battery current draw becomes.

Hope this helps

 

[Monotremata]

Go to steam engine and use the Ohms Law calc to do the math for you, its plain as day. A lower resistance coil, requires less voltage to reach a given wattage, yet it takes more amps from the battery to get there. More amps=more battery drain.

Edit: looks like me and Ryedan were posting at the same time. He nailed it.

 

[Ryedan]

Depends on the voltage/wattage. Based on steam engine 20A would be drawn @ 3V on a 0.15 coil.

No, it has nothing to do with resistance. Please see my post above.

 

[Ryedan]

Hang on, the thing nobody seems to be acknowledging is that OP may be referring to a nickel build. Most nickel builds come out sub-.3 ohms. With a TC mod it's never actually applying the full voltage, rather it's kind of "cycling" at lower voltages to prevent the temperature from getting too hot. This also would prevent the full amperage from being applied (I imagine all TC mods have chips that are smart enough to regulate below 20A).

In the case of a Kanthal build (or not nickel) I wouldn't really recommend going below .3 ohms.

It doesn't matter what coil material your using or what the coil resistance is. Watts out from the batteries equals watts out from the mod plus loss from the DC-DC regulator.

 

[Monotremata]

Its all Ohms Law folks, which you should at least have some basic idea of how it works before attempting anything remotely unsafe with a potential pipe bomb heating up in front of your face. No matter what mod youre using, no matter what chipset, no matter how much it bucks or boosts, THAT is the formula used to calculate the end result. Mod makers did not invent some new scientific formula that goes around this. Its set in stone cause, SCIENCE and the basic fundamentals of electricity.

The vaping world doesnt need anymore news stories of exploding mods and venting batteries so play it safe.

 

[paulparnham]

lol.
all these super low ohm builds are mainly for people who want to say ( look at me). Look how low my build is.
on a mech it has some purpose but like someone already said its pretty pointless on a vw device

 

[BababooeyHTJ]

Go to steam engine and use the Ohms Law calc to do the math for you, its plain as day. A lower resistance coil, requires less voltage to reach a given wattage, yet it takes more amps from the battery to get there. More amps=more battery drain.

Edit: looks like me and Ryedan were posting at the same time. He nailed it.

You may want to reread his post. It takes more current from the load side of the chipset not the batteries.

100w is going to put the same load on the batteries no matter what the resistance of the coil is