Atmistique Atomizers

[Uno mas]

Well had a great vapemail day yesterday and my Diver V2 was one of the packages

So, first build, supplied coil and wick, not so great, dry hit after dry hit, my thought is that there was simply to much silica being packed down by the diver body to wick well

Second build, 1.8 ohm ready wire with 2mm hollow Ekowool, mucho better, still have to give it the occasional couple heavy draws to ensure juice flow but I really think I did pretty well one this one and plan on sticking with it for a couple/few tanks

My next build I plan on wrapping around a 16 gauge needle and using hemp, thinking that I might get a little more control of the amount of material between the ceramic and Diver body to get proper wicking...

Anyway, as far, I'm pretty happy and thanks everyone for all the help

 

[Konstantinos]

The family of Atmistique wishes a most enjoyable and prosperous 2014 for everyone, may this year bring happiness to you all!

 

[nelsonm64]

I took my V2 to a whole new level yesterday. I dremeled out the ceramic cup to fit a 1/16th drill bit, then wraped a 30g 1.8 ohm micro coil. holly wicking batman! this thing will keep up even at 20 watts! so juicy and flavorfull!

IMO I believe the ceramic cups with the very limited wick slot width hold them back. I had modified them before but just slightly. now, after opening one up to a bigger size "1/16" its freakin' amazing. though it would flood because of the extreme wicking but it hasn't. not even after sitting all night

 

[qorax]

I just recoiled the Dv2 with only "R"...

Well, had to build a new wick & coil, and in the melee of packing I overlooked to bring-in my Wire Welder and "NR" wires, only packed a spool of Kanthal. So, just built a Microcoil of plain "R" wire (28AWG) and popped in a cotton (ball) wick in my Dv2 today.

As of now, 6-7 hrs thru, it is performing well√
Lemme see how it goes hereon

 

[raqball]

I've been using R wire only for the past month.. No issues at all and no difference in the quality of the vape..

Bye bye NR-R-NR wire setups for this kid!

 

[qorax]

I've been using R wire only for the past month.. No issues at all and no difference in the quality of the vape..

Bye bye NR-R-NR wire setups for this kid!

Yeah, I read that earlier. So, when I was sulking with sadness today I remembered your escapade - and thought why not? Thus you RB, were my inspiration to go straight "R", buddy!

 

[greigster]

I have been having leaking problems with the Diver V2 similar to many others when using it with the Billet Box. My opinion is that it is related to the airfow or lack of it.
There are 2 slight tunnel shaped grooves on the edge of the threaded section that line up with the slot on the head of the centre pin (not the vertical groove that runs from bottom to top of the threads) I wonder if I were to Dremel a slightly larger in height groove in the 510 threaded section, if it would make it not such a tight draw.

I think that due to the tight draw, with the negative pressure caused by taking a toke, we are physically sucking juice into the coil/ceramic cup.
I had a flooding situation this afternoon and when I stripped the BB tank and the Diver2, the Diver ceramic was full up to the top of the centre pin with juice.
The other thing I have noticed, is quite a dramatic change in the draw when the battery vent holes are covered.........as they are every time for me, being left handed.
I know the flangeless 35mm Diver2 was modified for the Billet Box but were the airflow channels also modified.

Why does screwing down the brass bolt have an effect on the airflow, when the Diver`s threaded 510 connector is not even screwed into anything?
The only thing I can think of, is that the threaded part gets pushed into the red silicone washer around the brass live terminal thus cutting off the air supply causing excessive juice to be sucked up into the coil area and then filling the ceramic, causing it to overflow out through the centre pin.

The above is only an opinion based on my own findings. You are welcome to drive a tank through the above...no pun intended

Cheers

greigster

 

[Akdare]

I am going to experiment later today with a couple of ideas...

greigster, I've had a similar thought about filing the slot deeper on the center pin...but I've had a similar airflow issue in my Sophia, also a rebuildable tank atty like the Diver. And it has a different layout completely for airflow. And on a traditional mech mod.

I'll post later today if the fix that's working for me today with the Sophia works for the Diver, too.

I do know that if you over tighten the brass ring, it shoves the tank downward, while the center pin remains relatively stationary, deforming those 2 small o rings, increasing the leak tendency...drastically overstated, but you get the idea...

I'll let ya'll know later...nap time now...


Sent from my iPad

 

[greigster]

I seem to have had the leaking through the centre pin as when I stripped my diver down, the juice was still inside the ceramic but up level with the top of the pin, so had not leaked out through the rubber seals.

Hope you enjoyed your nap, for me here in the UK it is 11pm, so a proper sleep for me now

 

[Kataphraktos]

One question: is this with the new brass nut or the original. My BB is from the first batch that came with the new brass nut with the o-ring. Do you have the original, to test it out, see if it does the same thing?

It is negative pressure building up for sure. I just vaped through a third of the tank, worked perfectly. I then inserted the syringe into the fill valve as if i were going to add juice, and it made this tiny popping sound.

 

[Akdare]

One question: is this with the new brass nut or the original. My BB is from the first batch that came with the new brass nut with the o-ring. Do you have the original, to test it out, see if it does the same thing?

It is negative pressure building up for sure. I just vaped through a third of the tank, worked perfectly. I then inserted the syringe into the fill valve as if i were going to add juice, and it made this tiny popping sound.

Kat...for me it happens both with the original brass ring, and with the new one that I just received.

I decided not to work on the Diver tonight, as the successful experiment I did with the Sophia turned out to be just luck. Second tank was crap. And my patience level for attys with ceramic cups is negative right now.


Sent from my iPad

 

[greigster]

One question: is this with the new brass nut or the original. My BB is from the first batch that came with the new brass nut with the o-ring. Do you have the original, to test it out, see if it does the same thing?

It is negative pressure building up for sure. I just vaped through a third of the tank, worked perfectly. I then inserted the syringe into the fill valve as if i were going to add juice, and it made this tiny popping sound.

I only have the original brass ring although I have the updated ring on order. It sounds like the new one is no better than the old one as far as the juice leaking from the 510 is concerned.

 

[Akdare]

I only have the original brass ring although I have the updated ring on order. It sounds like the new one is no better than the old one as far as the juice leaking from the 510 is concerned.

Thanks to that nap I took, I am now on Greenwich time...

 

[ugot]

Here is my way to avoid leaks or dry hits with Diver V2 in my BB. Never fill with the ball valve, remove the orange o'ring from the positive post and Never over tighten the brass ring whether the new or the old version.

 

[Akdare]

Here is my way to avoid leaks or dry hits with Diver V2 in my BB. Never fill with the ball valve, remove the orange o'ring from the positive post and Never over tighten the brass ring whether the new or the old version.

Already removed the orange o ring, and I barely tighten the brass ring, just enough to let it fire. I will try not using the ball valve. But that still does not solve the mystery of flooding when the juice gets to just above the Diver's wick windows...

Just curious, do you have the stainless or brass center pin?


Sent from my iPad

 

[Kataphraktos]

Already removed the orange o ring, and I barely tighten the brass ring, just enough to let it fire. I will try not using the ball valve. But that still does not solve the mystery of flooding when the juice gets to just above the Diver's wick windows...

Just curious, do you have the stainless or brass center pin?


Sent from my iPad

I only asked about the brass nut version because, when K & Co. were designing the v2, the new brass nut hadn't been released yet, so I thought perhaps it was an issue between v2 and the new brass nut. And I don't have the original brass nut to test. We can rule that out.

I use the stainless pin. Can't think of any reason why this would make a difference offhand, but I will try it with a v1 brass pin and see how it goes.

I swapped Divers for the day yesterday between BB and Scuba. The Scuba with the BB Diver works fine, still got a bit of flooding in the BB at that same juice level.

Question: which slotted cartos work with the BB? I'd like to get a few and see if I get the same behavior. I remember reading back earlier in the BB thread that some folks had the same behavior with slotted cartos. I'd like to rule out that this is a Diver v2 issue only.

My v1 Diver with o-ring fix did not do this, but it also did not feed as consistently as the v2 in the BB.

Late last night, I rebuilt a v2 with more cotton ball wick, enough to completely fill the side slots. I will vape through the tank tonight and see what happens.

ugot: I'll try not filling through the valve, see if that addresses the issue. Please note my post from yesterday. I vaped through about 1/3rd of the tank, and then inserted the plastic syringe tip into the valve, and got a "pop" sound, which means quite a bit of vacuum had built up in there. It is likely that this vacuum gets to a critical point at around the 1/3rd mark, at which point it releases through one of the exit points, letting in air and applying a sudden pressure to the juice, which then escapes into the Diver. Note, this is supported by the fact that the juice escapes both through the bottom of the Diver and into the top and the well of the brass nut. So, technically, this isn't a Diver leak issue, it is a BB tank releasing a large amount of juice into the Diver issue. Not assigning blame to one device or another, just trying to be precise as we figure this out.

 

[Kataphraktos]

 

[greigster]

I only asked about the brass nut version because, when K & Co. were designing the v2, the new brass nut hadn't been released yet, so I thought perhaps it was an issue between v2 and the new brass nut. And I don't have the original brass nut to test. We can rule that out.

I use the stainless pin. Can't think of any reason why this would make a difference offhand, but I will try it with a v1 brass pin and see how it goes.

I swapped Divers for the day yesterday between BB and Scuba. The Scuba with the BB Diver works fine, still got a bit of flooding in the BB at that same juice level.

Question: which slotted cartos work with the BB? I'd like to get a few and see if I get the same behavior. I remember reading back earlier in the BB thread that some folks had the same behavior with slotted cartos. I'd like to rule out that this is a Diver v2 issue only.

My v1 Diver with o-ring fix did not do this, but it also did not feed as consistently as the v2 in the BB.

Late last night, I rebuilt a v2 with more cotton ball wick, enough to completely fill the side slots. I will vape through the tank tonight and see what happens.

ugot: I'll try not filling through the valve, see if that addresses the issue. Please note my post from yesterday. I vaped through about 1/3rd of the tank, and then inserted the plastic syringe tip into the valve, and got a "pop" sound, which means quite a bit of vacuum had built up in there. It is likely that this vacuum gets to a critical point at around the 1/3rd mark, at which point it releases through one of the exit points, letting in air and applying a sudden pressure to the juice, which then escapes into the Diver. Note, this is supported by the fact that the juice escapes both through the bottom of the Diver and into the top and the well of the brass nut. So, technically, this isn't a Diver leak issue, it is a BB tank releasing a large amount of juice into the Diver issue. Not assigning blame to one device or another, just trying to be precise as we figure this out.

Recoiled/wicked yesterday using more cotton wool than normal, 10 wraps of .25 Kanthal all res giving 2.7ohms. Cotton wool trimmed to about 3mm. outside the juice slots and pushed it back in to the slots, so I could slide the Diver2 in to the BB tank without it catching on the O ring. I have not had any leaks overnight or today, though I am getting the occasional semi dry hit, at which point I cover the battery vent holes with my thumb and take a couple of pulls without firing, which is enough to make it vape great again.
I will use a little less wool next time.....it just seems a bit of a balancing trick to get it just right. I would rather have an occasional dry hit than the constant flooding.
I was using the Boge slotted 35mm carto, which worked very well with zero flooding, though it started to taste a little funky within 2 days.....I only vape 2 to 3 ml. per day.

If we can just get this flooding thing sorted, there will be nothing to beat the BB and Diver2.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Recoiled/wicked yesterday using more cotton wool than normal, 10 wraps of .25 Kanthal all res giving 2.7ohms. Cotton wool trimmed to about 3mm. outside the juice slots and pushed it back in to the slots, so I could slide the Diver2 in to the BB tank without it catching on the O ring. I have not had any leaks overnight or today, though I am getting the occasional semi dry hit, at which point I cover the battery vent holes with my thumb and take a couple of pulls without firing, which is enough to make it vape great again.
I will use a little less wool next time.....it just seems a bit of a balancing trick to get it just right. I would rather have an occasional dry hit than the constant flooding.
I was using the Boge slotted 35mm carto, which worked very well with zero flooding, though it started to taste a little funky within 2 days.....I only vape 2 to 3 ml. per day.

If we can just get this flooding thing sorted, there will be nothing to beat the BB and Diver2.

Greigster, just to clarify, are you getting constant leaking? So far, the v2 really doesn't have a leaking issue like the v1 did. The design is quite different across the board, and the change from acetal in the base to o-rings can also be applied to the v1 to address leaking as well.

With the v2, juice fills the base by design. Thus the wide-open slots in the side. If you have a persistent leaking issue, then something else is wrong, something specific to your v2 only.

Do you have another tank to test this out? If you have a one-off bad v2, we should identify this quickly so Konstantinos can remedy. Lots of people are using the v2 in many different tanks leak-free. Let's get you there as well first, and we'll figure out the BB-specific issue separately.

 

[nelsonm64]

my V2 flooded sitting overnight. so much so that it came out the centre pin, first time this has happened... hmmm....