Atmistique Atomizers

[Konstantinos]

Umo mas: if you have dry hits with the stock ready res try to use it first in low voltage, especially the first hours of a new coil. Also you can put the ceramic a little bit in side position so the wicks leave more space to the base slots.
We never use double 2.0mm Ekowool before because probably it will gives dry hits. Simple 2.0mm Ekowool maybe gives you better results. I personally use double 1.0mm Ekowool.
Pls keep informing us

Nelson: Tasos here use microcoils in the stock ceramic. Your modification for sure makes it more easy the use of but is it also the cause of leakage?

Stan Raqball: what about the taste, same things?

Greigster: your conclusions are right. If you close the side vent holes or screw the BB ring so much, naturally you will have over flooding and tight draw because of the absence of air, as you already noticed and for the reasons you already detailed described.
I never use the BB with a single carto but with Diver the draw I have is it perfect for me. The air regulator also works fine.
The 35mm flangless Diver is not a special version for the BB. Its just a combination which can also works fine with it.
I don’t suggest to dremel the pin because you will get much more air that maybe cant handle. If you still want to try better get another one pin or do it little by little.

Akdare: a friend had similar issues and he find that the filling is the problem. He tries this:
“Good news, I have found a method that seems to be working so far. 2 tank fulls, and almost 2 full days with no leaks.
When filling, i have been pressing the ball valve in on the BB tank as far as I can to give maximum escape for air, filling very slowly, and covering both ends of the diver by using my thumb (cover hole in pin), and index finger (cover top of diver). By doing this there is no airflow thru the diver while filling. In order for excessive liguid to go into diver when filling, air must go out of diver. By blocking all air flow of diver, liquid doesn't doesn't enter easily, so if covered, and filling slow, air more easily escapes out of tank, and only little, to no liquid enters diver when filling.
I will fill more times to confirm this. I may have just got lucky, but it seems to make a big difference.”

 

[raqball]

Stan Raqball: what about the taste, same things?

My juice taste the same using R wire only.. I see no difference in taste, throat hit or vapor production..

 

[finagle69]

I rebuilt my V2 yesterday with 28G (11 or 12 wraps) and 32G Nickel on my PikoV3 (thanks Kataphraktos!). I let the micro coil sit just proud of the top of the ceramic cup. I put in enough cotton to be just a bit too snug for my liking. I like it to move with little resistance in a Kayfun, etc. I did this purposely to have a good amount of cotton at the juice ports. I haven't gotten far enough into the tank yet on the BB to say how this is getting along, but it's vaping well and keeping up with the juice demand even at max voltage.

I removed the lower acetal in my V1 and replaced with small orings (thanks again Kataphraktos!). I rebuilt it with a similar microcoil, but the cotton, instead of cutting close to the end of the ceramic, I let come out, then wrap around the ceramic to the other side. Basically it comes out one side, then wraps to the next outlet, and it wraps to meet up with the first. So it has a full wrap of cotton around the ceramic. I put this in a Kir Fanis Trap Tank, which I foolishly filled using the top port. Should always drop the diver down into the tank to fill so it doesn't flood. I'll see how this goes, and may finally mod the V1 for use in another BB tank.

 

[Kataphraktos]

My juice taste the same using R wire only.. I see no difference in taste, throat hit or vapor production..

You and qorax may have dealt a severe blow to wire welders worldwide. The horror, the horror...

I've been trying to figure out how R-only wouldn't have hot legs which lead to burnt taste in the v2. I suspect the design allows juice to run into the cup, so even the legs are well juiced. Fascinating.

You know I'm going to be trying this out. And here I thought I wouldn't be able to mess around with the v2 Diver! You guys are a bad influence!

 

[greigster]

Greigster, just to clarify, are you getting constant leaking? So far, the v2 really doesn't have a leaking issue like the v1 did. The design is quite different across the board, and the change from acetal in the base to o-rings can also be applied to the v1 to address leaking as well.

With the v2, juice fills the base by design. Thus the wide-open slots in the side. If you have a persistent leaking issue, then something else is wrong, something specific to your v2 only.

Do you have another tank to test this out? If you have a one-off bad v2, we should identify this quickly so Konstantinos can remedy. Lots of people are using the v2 in many different tanks leak-free. Let's get you there as well first, and we'll figure out the BB-specific issue separately.

my V2 flooded sitting overnight. so much so that it came out the centre pin, first time this has happened... hmmm....

This is the exact problem that I have been having, Kataphraktos, the ceramic seems to fill up with juice to a level above the top of the centre pin but then overflows out of the hole in the centre pin. The juice is not getting past the O rings.
As I said in my post above, I have used a larger amount of cotton wool in the coil,the ends of the cotton wool has been packed/pushed into the juice holes just to make it flat enough to push through the O ring on the BB tank. I may have packed it into the slots a little tight as I am now getting a slight dry hit after about 4 draws. At that point I just cover the vent holes in the BB and take a couple of draws without firing and all is well again. So I have gone from one extreme to the other.
I will rebuild it again but instead of 3mm of wool hanging out the juice slot and pushed back in,, I will try 1 to 2mm.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I rebuilt my V2 yesterday with 28G (11 or 12 wraps) and 32G Nickel on my PikoV3 (thanks Kataphraktos!). I let the micro coil sit just proud of the top of the ceramic cup. I put in enough cotton to be just a bit too snug for my liking. I like it to move with little resistance in a Kayfun, etc. I did this purposely to have a good amount of cotton at the juice ports. I haven't gotten far enough into the tank yet on the BB to say how this is getting along, but it's vaping well and keeping up with the juice demand even at max voltage.

I removed the lower acetal in my V1 and replaced with small orings (thanks again Kataphraktos!). I rebuilt it with a similar microcoil, but the cotton, instead of cutting close to the end of the ceramic, I let come out, then wrap around the ceramic to the other side. Basically it comes out one side, then wraps to the next outlet, and it wraps to meet up with the first. So it has a full wrap of cotton around the ceramic. I put this in a Kir Fanis Trap Tank, which I foolishly filled using the top port. Should always drop the diver down into the tank to fill so it doesn't flood. I'll see how this goes, and may finally mod the V1 for use in another BB tank.

Awesome! You are welcome!

One thing - don't go to the trouble of removing the flange right away, just shave down the top of the tube as needed. I found the v1 and v2 with flange work the same as flangeless in my BB, so removing the flange may be unnecessary.

 

[Konstantinos]

"You and qorax may have dealt a severe blow to wire welders worldwide. The horror, the horror..." ))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

We also try again. Remember before 2-3 months (with only "R") we take a good result but evident worst than nr/r/nr.

 

[raqball]

I am not noticing any difference but I've been told I could vape soap..

The flavor, for me at least, is exactly the same.. But again, my taste buds may just be shot..

 

[greigster]

You and qorax may have dealt a severe blow to wire welders worldwide. The horror, the horror...

I've been trying to figure out how R-only wouldn't have hot legs which lead to burnt taste in the v2. I suspect the design allows juice to run into the cup, so even the legs are well juiced. Fascinating.

You know I'm going to be trying this out. And here I thought I wouldn't be able to mess around with the v2 Diver! You guys are a bad influence!

When I built my latest coil, 10wraps .25 Kanthal around a 2mm drill bit without non res, I pulsed the fire button using just the base/ceramic/coil, only the coil glows, the legs do not change colour. The glowing stops at each end of the coil.

 

[Kataphraktos]

This is the exact problem that I have been having, Kataphraktos, the ceramic seems to fill up with juice to a level above the top of the centre pin but then overflows out of the hole in the centre pin. The juice is not getting past the O rings.
As I said in my post above, I have used a larger amount of cotton wool in the coil,the ends of the cotton wool has been packed/pushed into the juice holes just to make it flat enough to push through the O ring on the BB tank. I may have packed it into the slots a little tight as I am now getting a slight dry hit after about 4 draws. At that point I just cover the vent holes in the BB and take a couple of draws without firing and all is well again. So I have gone from one extreme to the other.
I will rebuild it again but instead of 3mm of wool hanging out the juice slot and pushed back in,, I will try 1 to 2mm.

Just to reiterate what Konstantinos said, if the draw is too tight, you will end up sucking juice into the Diver, which is what this sounds like. If I'm not mistaken, the vents in the BB do double duty - they are meant as battery vents, but also air vents for providing airflow when drawing. That's why they are right next to the 510 connector. Blocking those leaves you with a starting point in the tank, so instead of sucking a lot of air through the base and over the coil, you are sucking a much smaller volume of air from inside the BB chassis, and some juice from inside the tank. That's why, when you get dry hits in your newer configuration with more wick, closing the vent and sucking helps feed juice.

Follow up question: was the draw very tight when you had the original amount of wick in the Diver?

 

[finagle69]

Awesome! You are welcome!

One thing - don't go to the trouble of removing the flange right away, just shave down the top of the tube as needed. I found the v1 and v2 with flange work the same as flangeless in my BB, so removing the flange may be unnecessary.

Hmm, I thought I read somewhere that the thickness of the flange changed during the production run of the V1? I have an OG from the first run. Regardless, the tube will need to be cut down the same amount either way. So I'll start there and see how it goes. Where's my hacksaw??

 

[greigster]

Just to reiterate what Konstantinos said, if the draw is too tight, you will end up sucking juice into the Diver, which is what this sounds like. If I'm not mistaken, the vents in the BB do double duty - they are meant as battery vents, but also air vents for providing airflow when drawing. That's why they are right next to the 510 connector. Blocking those leaves you with a starting point in the tank, so instead of sucking a lot of air through the base and over the coil, you are sucking a much smaller volume of air from inside the BB chassis, and some juice from inside the tank. That's why, when you get dry hits in your newer configuration with more wick, closing the vent and sucking helps feed juice.

Follow up question: was the draw very tight when you had the original amount of wick in the Diver?

It was a little tight but gurgling at the same time due to juice around the 510 connector.

I will go and rebuild right now and report back soon.

 

[Uno mas]

Umo mas: if you have dry hits with the stock ready res try to use it first in low voltage, especially the first hours of a new coil. Also you can put the ceramic a little bit in side position so the wicks leave more space to the base slots.
We never use double 2.0mm Ekowool before because probably it will gives dry hits. Simple 2.0mm Ekowool maybe gives you better results. I personally use double 1.0mm Ekowool.
Pls keep informing us

The first build was with the provided wick and wire, doubled over 1mm (guessing) silica...

The second build is a single strand of 2mm Ekowool and it's doin' pretty well...

Hemp is next

 

[Kataphraktos]

It was a little tight but gurgling at the same time due to juice around the 510 connector.

I will go and rebuild right now and report back soon.

OK, cool. I think if we try to get the vape to be a bit looser, it might resolve this completely. It may be something as trivial as a bad ceramic not inserting properly and blocking airflow. That's why I've got a bag of about 25 or so - and that's after sending ceramics to a bunch of people over the last few months.

If you have another ceramic, try using it instead. If not, I can drop a couple in the mail for you - but they'll take a bit to get there from across the pond.

 

[greigster]

That is a very generous offer Kataphraktos, thank you, but I am lucky that I have 6 so will take your advice and try another ceramic. I am just cleaning my tank in an Ultra Sonic cleaner just to make sure the filling ball valve is super clean.

 

[Dayloon]

I purchased the diver v2 thinking the leak issues from the centre pin had been resolved. How wrong I was. It leaks just as bad. I'm using your pre-made coils and juice pisses out of the centre pin. I'm so disappointed.

The Sophia by Leo doesn't leak any liquid so why does the Diver?

 

[ugot]

Just curious, do you have the stainless or brass center pin?

Sorry for the late repply, I'm using the brass one. Also I found that normal coil with Cotton butcher cord work better then micro coil and organic Cotton.

 

[milliways]

Hi, it is Lily's Sugar-N-Cream yarn, which is commonly available at Walmart (US) and Amazon. However, the only place I know of in Canada is : Lily® Sugar

Since you are in the vicinity I could give some - but unfortunately I'm vacationing (like you) in Dubai, shall return on Jan-4th... if you are around till then I'd be honored to meet you... have some vape tête-à-tête and give you a packet.

Thanks. I drove down to Buffalo for a feed of wings at Anchor Bar, so stopped in at a Michaels and bought a lifetime's supply I'm headed back to France tomorrow; perhaps next time I'm in T.O. we can get together and share a vape!

All the best to all of you and your families in 2014.

 

[greigster]

Just re-wicked and micro coiled as per my above post. Have given the the Billet Box tank an ultra sonic clean with the ball valve held in the half open position by using a plastic filling tip, just to make sure the warm soapy water got to the whole surface of the ball. I have renewed both tank O rings. I have also removed the red washer around the live terminal in the billet box.

I have used less cotton wool, just enough to allow the wool to slide through the coil with little resistance and down the side with 2 mm protruding out from the juice slots. Juiced up the cotton wool and just pushed the 2mm. tails back into the juice slots, re-installed the Driver into the tank, pushing the top down into the tank just enough to fill through the top rather than the ball valve, pushed the Diver back into position and juice started to drip from the centre pin hole.
turned the tank upside down and blew from the 510 end to clear the surplus.
Left it standing on a tissue for a couple of minutes and no more leaked out.
Installed the Diver into the BB and vaping great, with a great draw and no gurgling.
The BB has been standing for 30 minutes or so and so far no leaks and vaping great with some nice popping and crackling going on.

My previous attempts would have resulted in the tank being taken out and a clean of the Billet Box 3 times by now. Not sure which part of my overhaul has helped but so far so good.
Will know a bit more after leaving it over night.

 

[Konstantinos]

finagle69: the thickness of the flange are the same in both versions

Uno mas: stock ready res made with double silica wick 2.0mm.

Dayloon: could you pls give us more info in order to help you? Your setup, the tank you use etc?
You must be sure that the wicks are not pushed in the side of the base slot but in the middle. You dont have to worry about it, just be sure that they are not completely in the side.
Check that you cut the down wicks of both edges.
While you unscrew your Diver check that the base are still screwed well in the Divers tube.
The pin sits correctly inside the ceramic.

greigster: i usually fill my Scuba tank with a halo needle. Its so fat and doesnt leaves space for air to come out. So when i fill it i just put in towel for a few seconds and thats all. If i fill it with a simple needle which leaves enough space for air, i dont need to use the towel.