Atmistique Atomizers

[tmcase]

Yeah, I don't mark it permanently either I just twist it till it's close, mark it with a sharpie marker (it rubs off). I really have no clue why your mark changed though if it isn't the o-rings.

It could still be the oring. The ones I bought were 6 x 1 like somebody said but they might be a tad thinner.

 

[tepicky]

Hi! Im thinking of getting a diver. But im curious if the diver will feed right with a sub ohm coil. I normally build my coils .5-.7. Will that work with a diver?

Bump. Anyone?

 

[tmcase]

Bump. Anyone?

I don't do sub ohms so I'm probably not going to be able to help you but more info would help. What voltage/watts are you vaping these sub ohms at?

 

[yankeebobo]

Sub ohms are ok if you have a good mech mod. I vape between .8-1.2. Feeding though can be a challenge. I have to use a grail as it barely keeps up with feeing through the diver hole normally. Taking it sub complicates that further in my usage.

 

[Singlespeed]

Misaligned markings
I experienced that in one of my diver. For my case I believed its because when I first coil it, I didn't lube the orings and coupled with everything still new and stuffs, it didn't fully threaded all the way in. No biggie for me as I just eyeball the differences.

Sub Ohms
I ran as low as 0.8ohm before. No dry hits on the way I'm vaping it but the vapor is just too hot for me. I coiled mine at 1.0ohm micro coil nowadays an the heat is equalavent to a genesis at 0.7-0.8ohm. Wicking can be tuned by the length of wicks sticking out from the ceramic. Shorter wicks faster and longer wicks slower.

 

[tepicky]

I don't do sub ohms so I'm probably not going to be able to help you but more info would help. What voltage/watts are you vaping these sub ohms at?

I use an IMR battery. I normally use 26ga. I have a 4/5 on my kayfun atm and it's at .7 ohms.

Sub ohms are ok if you have a good mech mod. I vape between .8-1.2. Feeding though can be a challenge. I have to use a grail as it barely keeps up with feeing through the diver hole normally. Taking it sub complicates that further in my usage.

I use a neme which hits pretty good. I havent used anything variable w/v since november of last year. Im a bit partial with dripping as it doesnt suit my vaping style, but i see how people enjoy it.

Sub Ohms
I ran as low as 0.8ohm before. No dry hits on the way I'm vaping it but the vapor is just too hot for me. I coiled mine at 1.0ohm micro coil nowadays an the heat is equalavent to a genesis at 0.7-0.8ohm. Wicking can be tuned by the length of wicks sticking out from the ceramic. Shorter wicks faster and longer wicks slower.

Ahhh good to know. I normally mix 6 and 0 mg of nic to get my 3mg. If my vape isnthot enough, i start to crave higher nic. I guess the best way to find out is to order one. Wish they had the flangeless at phiniac :/

Thanks for writing back guys. Much appreciated.

 

[raqball]

This thread needs a bump!

Why?

Because the Diver ROCKS

 

[curisu]

Does anyone here have experience with the diver and cotton wicks? I'm running a couple of my divers in micro-coil mode (~1/16" of 29 or 30ga, ~8-10 wraps). I generally shoot for a lower ohm coil, between 1.1 and 1.4 ohms.

No matter how little or how much wick i put in, after a few *awesome* vapes, it starts to overwick and leak through the air-hole.

I've tried short tails, both thick and thin.
"Short" meaning i've clipped the wick to touching the walls of the chimney, but not really dipping down along the ceramic.
"Thick" meaning the dried cotton looks "bushy" sticking out of the dry coil.

I've tried long tails, both thick and thin.
"Long" meaning they droop past the chimney threads.

If the wick is too thick, dry hits are inevitable.

Wick length doesn't seem to affect the wicking after it's fully primed - i can chain vape with awesome results with short or long tails, but it always floods the air hole and leaks.

I've confirmed the diver itself is leak free by removing the wick and letting it sit overnight with a tank 1/2 full; the pin in bone dry in the morning.

any ideas or should i give up on the cotton in a diver?

 

[tmcase]

I've used cotton wicks in my Divers without any problems. Maybe you are wrapping the coil too tight. Cotton tends to expand when wet and could be choking off the juice or the wicks are too tight in the slots.

 

[raqball]

Is there any advantage to using cotton in the Diver?

The Divers wick is so short I can't really wrap my mind around how or why it would perform any better.

IMHO, cotton is best suited for a dripper because it will soak up / hold more juice..

 

[tmcase]

Is there any advantage to using cotton in the Diver?

The Divers wick is so short I can't really wrap my mind around how or why it would perform any better.

IMHO, cotton is best suited for a dripper because it will soak up / hold more juice..

I don't know if there is any advantage but I like the taste of cotton. I've since discovered German Silica and now I'm digging that. Ekowool works good in the Diver also.

 

[fraghole]

Yeah, I don't mark it permanently either I just twist it till it's close, mark it with a sharpie marker (it rubs off). I really have no clue why your mark changed though if it isn't the o-rings.

The threaded part in the tube is a separate pressed in piece. Over tightening the tube can pull that piece down over time, changing the location of the holes. That's what gives the appearance of a moving mark. I had to tap mine back up into the tube. I don't know if all tubes are made this way, as i only have one diver, but mine is made that way.

 

[tmcase]

The threaded part in the tube is a separate pressed in piece. Over tightening the tube can pull that piece down over time, changing the location of the holes. That's what gives the appearance of a moving mark. I had to tap mine back up into the tube. I don't know if all tubes are made this way, as i only have one diver, but mine is made that way.

Hmmm....I never thought of that. I tighten it down pretty good but I'm not that strong so I doubt that I could be moving the threaded part. Possible though.

 

[raqball]

I'm not that strong so I doubt that I could be moving the threaded part. Possible though.

Show us them guns Case!

 

[tmcase]

Show us them guns Case!

 

[Yail Bloor]

^Terrifying.

 

[Singlespeed]

I'm a cotton user for a while now. Used to have your issues. My fix comes in the for if mods. In particular top cap design. PAPS & Nemesis works flawlessly. GG, not so. With lesser airflow capable topcaps, you'll suck in more juice from the tank. I'm using SnP

 

[curisu]

I'm a cotton user for a while now. Used to have your issues. My fix comes in the for if mods. In particular top cap design. PAPS & Nemesis works flawlessly. GG, not so. With lesser airflow capable topcaps, you'll suck in more juice from the tank. I'm using SnP

Interesting. I have the paps, lux and a handful of nemeses -all leaked. I have 2x snp as well (only tanks I use).

I did notice that all my coils are level with the top of the ceramic cup. How deep are you setting yours?

 

[raqball]

Interesting. I have the paps, lux and a handful of nemeses -all leaked. I have 2x snp as well (only tanks I use).

I did notice that all my coils are level with the top of the ceramic cup. How deep are you setting yours?

I don't run cotton but mine site all the way into the ceramic..

 

[Singlespeed]

Interesting. I have the paps, lux and a handful of nemeses -all leaked. I have 2x snp as well (only tanks I use).

I did notice that all my coils are level with the top of the ceramic cup. How deep are you setting yours?

The top of my coil is almost parallel to the top edge of the ceramic. I cut my cotton edges diagonally upwards at 45degrees angle as well.

Have you checked the usual suspects of loose center pins and such?