Atmistique Atomizers

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Kataphraktos

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I kept it right on the ceramic's slots, few times tad higher and/or at the lowest possible.... yet no joy!

Today, made that spiral topper wick system... uh, it still leaks... a tissue is now always at hand... for both tasks - (a)to clean up the frequent mess, as well (b)to wipe my tears!

As per eratikmind's post, my next step in my struggles with this confounded Zapper and nickel NR wire is to move to silver crimps to join R/NR, and shift to silver NR wire in the process as well. The silver should be more malleable, and therefore get press-fitted better when inserting the ceramic. Alternatively, using much thinner gauge NR wire might do the trick.

Admittedly, my ceramics are a very very tight fit when inserted, which I always liked, since it eliminated any possibility of slippage, but this may also be leaving a gap for liquid to escape between ceramic and the interior of the Diver's cup.

Since you are a GP Paps fan, you know that manufacturing fault tolerances for such devices are minuscule, so a fraction of a mm can mean one Diver works flawlessly, while another needs a bit of... persuading to be optimal. You have hundeds of people enjoying the first batch of GP SnPs, while mine sits in ruins, too small for my Divers, and I await my replacement. For every Diver comment about leaking, there are dozens or hundreds of others we never hear about, that work flawlessly.

One interesting test I might run is to build out my Scuba Diver with a normal wick setup (not the spiral), but not pass the lead up the outside of the ceramic. It will not function, but I can let it sit for a day and see if there is any leaking. if there is none, this should confirm that the liquid is seeping between the outside of the ceramic and the inner wall of the Diver's bottom. But I'm not doing this until my replacement SnP arrives, and I have another tank to use a Diver, because the Diver really is far superior to my Ithaka and kayfun for heavier tobacco/chocolate juices.

(and, yes, I talk too much, I'm Greek, our πολυλογία‎ built Western civilization, you're welcome)
 

qorax

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@qoraχ: pls also check that wicks arent cut more than the suggest (up to Divers base thread)
@andrebandre: kir konstantinos :))))))))))))))

Sir,

I've re-setup the Diver once again. Followed ur YT vids to the teeth. The wick is sized exactly to the brim of the base. I'm using 30g Kanthal, conjoined with (what looks like) 30g NR wire (feels the same thickness). The joints at both ends are pretty tight & small, done the following way:



I've 3/4 wraps to get me 1.2-1.3Ω. The Ceramic Cup is pressed tightly but not seriously (one cup is already broken* thus was extra cautious, b'coz if this one left also shattered - I'd be left Diverless!). Visually I don't 'see' any gap between the base wall and the cup (hey Kat, I ensured that!). And voilà, the leak has stopped... BUT, I still have one tiny moist spot always, under the Diver's +ve pin and atop the mod's 510 post.

Diver is vaping exceptionally well, there's no leakage per se. Nothing to seriously worry about like before. And I believe that moist spot is by nature of the beast, is it?
_________________________________________________________
*I'd like to buy additional Ceramic Cups, but the shipping cost will
likely be a pain to swallow. Is there a cheaper sending option?
 

Kataphraktos

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Sir,

I've re-setup the Diver once again. Followed ur YT vids to the teeth. The wick is sized exactly to the brim of the base. I'm using 30g Kanthal, conjoined with (what looks like) 30g NR wire (feels the same thickness). The joints at both ends are pretty tight & small, done the following way:



I've 3/4 wraps to get me 1.2-1.3Ω. The Ceramic Cup is pressed tightly but not seriously (one cup is already broken* thus was extra cautious, b'coz if this one left also shattered - I'd be left Diverless!). Visually I don't 'see' any gap between the base wall and the cup (hey Kat, I ensured that!). And voilà, the leak has stopped... BUT, I still have one tiny moist spot always, under the Diver's +ve pin and atop the mod's 510 post.

Diver is vaping exceptionally well, there's no leakage per se. Nothing to seriously worry about like before. And I believe that moist spot is by nature of the beast, is it?
_________________________________________________________
*I'd like to buy additional Ceramic Cups, but the shipping cost will
likely be a pain to swallow. Is there a cheaper sending option?

Awesome!

I left the Scuba Diver sitting around yesterday, and when I returned home, I had a tiny bit of juice in the same place, on the end of the pin and inside the 510 connector. I vaped it dry and refilled it yesterday evening, and this morning it had the same amount of juice in the same spot, just like yours does. The amount is a fraction of a drop.

Now that i think about it, I think I got the long wick idea subconsciously from my eBDP, which uses the same CE2 ceramic, but never has any seepage out the bottom. The pin is much, much tighter in the eBDP, however, you really cannot remove it or insert it without a screwdriver and a lot of force. Which gives me a couple of other ideas on the Diver...
 

andrebandre

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I used to have overnight leaks no matter what until i stuffed Ariadne's magical thread down the Diver's throat to shut him up.
0 leak, 0 condesation, 0 gurgle, ever since (several days), in both my mega super plongeur autonome or his less bombastic relative run of the mill sponge harvester.
 
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qorax

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Awesome!

I left the Scuba Diver sitting around yesterday, and when I returned home, I had a tiny bit of juice in the same place, on the end of the pin and inside the 510 connector. I vaped it dry and refilled it yesterday evening, and this morning it had the same amount of juice in the same spot, just like yours does. The amount is a fraction of a drop.

Now that i think about it, I think I got the long wick idea subconsciously from my eBDP, which uses the same CE2 ceramic, but never has any seepage out the bottom. The pin is much, much tighter in the eBDP, however, you really cannot remove it or insert it without a screwdriver and a lot of force.
Which gives me a couple of other ideas on the Diver...

Awaiting those... with wide eyes :2cool:
 

qorax

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I used to have overnight leaks no matter what until i stuffed Ariadne's magical thread down the Diver's throat to shut him up.
0 leak, 0 condesation, 0 gurgle, ever since (several days), in both my mega super plongeur autonome or his less bombastic relative run of the mill sponge diver.

Ooops... couldn't understand a word Sir. Sorry, my bad (noob at it here). Ariadne's what?
 

Kataphraktos

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Another day with almost no leaking on the Diver. After this morning, when I woke to find a tiny bit of juice on the end of the pole, I vaped a tank throughout the day and it showed no leaking at all, still vaping perfectly. I did two more tanks this evening, removing the Diver in between to wash out the tank so I could try a different juice. No leaking, a tiny bit of condensation, so little when I wiped it off it didn't register on the napkin.

But since qorax is still having issues, I will attack the pole next. Both my Divers have a slightly loose pole. It comes out with almost zero force using only a pair of tweezers, and that's from a built Diver with ceramic and coil&wick. Compare this to the eBaron Pro, where I need to use a screwdriver to push very hard on the pole from the top and press it out - no way you can pull that pole out from the bottom, especially with a ceramic in place. The ceramics themselves fit very tight in the Diver, so I know there's zero leakage through the side of the ceramic in my case.

Next up: I took one of the tiny spare O-rings from my mortally-wounded GP SnP, and inserted the Diver pole, so the O-ring rests on the base of the pole. You can probably use the spare O-ring for the cover of the Scuba fill hole as well. I then inserted the pole, which, because of the O-ring, now extends out of the Diver base a tiny bit more. But it fits into the Diver base. Now we'll see how it behaves over the next day or two.

I did trim the long wick end down to a "standard" Diver length. I want to run this experiment on its own, see what impact it has without the benefit of the long, spiral wick end.

BTW, if you haven't vaped VCV's Nightshift from a Diver, you haven't vaped VCV's Nightshift. It just doesn't taste the same in any other device.
 

Kataphraktos

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My ceramics are always a tight fit in the Diver, as they should be. It's the center poles that are a bit loose.

After a night with a "standard" wick and a tiny O-ring inserted on the pole's base, no leakage, not even a hint of condensation! I'm pretty sure this confirms that the juice is travelling through the gap between the center pole and the inner circumference of the Diver. If your pole wedges in tight, you have no leaking. if your pole is on the loose side, like mine is in both Divers I own, you get some leaking.

qorax, tell us how easy or difficult it is to insert and remove the small pole into the bottom of the Diver when you build it.
 

andrebandre

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PS. It seems that while i was typing Kat had more results regarding the bottom pin behavior so that might change the relevance of my post below but none the less is something to think about.

I am thinking out loud.
So far it seems i am the only one with no leaking whatsoever even with the unorthodox way i built my coils.
Is it just possible that the 3mm coiled inside the tube, being so thick and absorbing slower but more juice over time could be the reason why so far i'm still the one lucky punk without any returning bad manners/habits as far as the Diver is concerned?
I have no reason to replace my coils yet but if i did, i think i would try a doubled 1.5mm eko, bottom set of whiskers trimmed and going down just as in the normal build and the top ones double helix coiled going up.
I think the thickness of the up coiled wick makes the difference.
Maybe if it seems to thick, as it was the case for Captain Kataphraktos, two different diameter wicks could be used.
A thinner one on the bottom.
I am using the 1.5 mm eko on my super Diver, and 2mm hollow eko in my mini Diver, and the same gross, thick and unmanered 3mm eko for the tube coils only with the lower somewhat frayed end on top or thereabouts the cup.
 
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andrebandre

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My ceramics are always a tight fit in the Diver, as they should be. It's the center poles that are a bit loose.

After a night with a "standard" wick and a tiny O-ring inserted on the pole's base, no leakage, not even a hint of condensation! I'm pretty sure this confirms that the juice is travelling through the gap between the center pole and the inner circumference of the Diver. If your pole wedges in tight, you have no leaking. if your pole is on the loose side, like mine is in both Divers I own, you get some leaking.QUOTE]





I recently acquired a Killer and noticed that the pin is solid, not hollow.
I believe it to be the same dimensions and if so i will try to use it with a regular coil in a tight cup and see where that takes me.
I think you are right about the juice dripping down via the inside of the pin.
 

qorax

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My ceramics are always a tight fit in the Diver, as they should be. It's the center poles that are a bit loose.

After a night with a "standard" wick and a tiny O-ring inserted on the pole's base, no leakage, not even a hint of condensation! I'm pretty sure this confirms that the juice is travelling through the gap between the center pole and the inner circumference of the Diver. If your pole wedges in tight, you have no leaking. if your pole is on the loose side, like mine is in both Divers I own, you get some leaking.

qorax, tell us how easy or difficult it is to insert and remove the small pole into the bottom of the Diver when you build it.

I think u've nailed it. My first cup+POS build were tight as hell and there was just a glimpse of wetness on the bottom. However, when I rebuilt the Diver with the other cup (the 1st one broke) -- things went dead wrong... drainage galore! B'coz the cup+POS were not so tight.

Did build it a few times more, the last one was as tight as possible. And like I stated before my leakage had stopped, but the moistness continued. However, lately my 2nd cup broke as well. Thus, I'm cup-less (if there was a word like that!) and so my Diver stands shelved.

As it stands, I won't be able to buy more cups soon till I plan purchasing something else from Atmistique. B'coz the shipping charges might not be affable for just few cups. I'll wait and watch.
 
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