Atmistique Atomizers
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I'm using mine in a custom made Diver tank. It just has a recess for the flange and I've tried it in a Phiniac. No leaking in either.
Ok based on the suggestions so far, im going to try longer ekowool wicks turned up as well as 2mm silica. If that doesnt work, i will try Divers in different tanks. Also will place an order for silver wire. Will report back.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
Yup, but I'm 100% sure idaho has an SnP, and 98% sure he has a Scuba, and I'd bet at least a couple of other tanks, so taking the exact same Diver, without touching the wick&coil or unscrewing the base, and using the same juice (thus eliminating the differences in juice viscosities), it might end up that some tanks perform better than others, which would narrow it down to an air pressure in the tank issue.
If u make the usual setup with 2mm silica u dont have to turn up the wicks. Just cut them up to the threads
I've used my Diver in three different tanks... the GP's SnP, Boge's F16 (custom) and HV's Bella Elegance SS Pyrex. It behaved similarly in all three. Which is: VGL (Vapes Great but Leaks). The leak is sparse lately, just a wetness within an hour... a droplet by the day... a full drop overnight.
And I've built it many times over. Have built it as per [nearly]every video on YT, including Atmistique's. Everything is snug fit on my Diver's internals... and none of the tanks had any seepage from it's O-rings. I can confirm that my Diver's positive pin is the source of the leaks. It used to be heavily leaking initially, however with many builds and different ways of filling my tanks it has been drastically reduced - but is still there.
And I'm definitely not happy about it. I can't enjoy spending that much time setting up (aka fiddling/tweaking) a hi-end topper and then yet be under constant fear/worry. I don't like to remove my Atty every now and then from the mod and/to wipe-off. Which is why I like my Spheroids and the Kayfun Lites. They are easy... one minute to setup a coil & wick (throw whatever and it'd work), fill up and remain worry free... even if I toss* them around.
______________________________________________________________________________
*Was at Canada's Wonderland yesterday with two setups, just thrown in my pockets. A Lux with K-lite and a SS Paps with K-lite. None leaked, gurgled, dryhit, whatever... happily blew tons of vape in the 'designated smoking areas'!
Ps.: This post is no way attempted towards deriding the Diver. It is a nice vape gear, I've heard ppl having no issues with it. It's just me who is not cut for the diver. It's my fault, or a lacunae within me.
I currently am using 2mm eko. I am now going to cut to the base of the threads and point the wicks upward. I think my short side is too short at 2mm and the other side is 4 cm in the tank.
I'm going to pretend to think some more, although it is no secret i'm devoid of such faculty.
Referring to the extended Diver inside the XL tank (my second one inside a mini tank is doing fine and dandy so far).
I removed the massive 3mm eko independent coil from inside the tube and left it in the standard setup with the fairly thick (non hollow?) 1.5mm eko (doubled up/whiskers down).
The reason for using the eko being the hope for better flavor vs silica.
The 1.5mm was a compromise (after trying 1/2/3/mm both silica and eko, the 1 and 2 mm doubled, the latter single for obvious reasons) thinking that even though pinched between the cup and the tube it still has the ability to wick sufficiently but not over wick (and thus to possibly have juice drip down the center of the pin) and at the same time prevent the level of the juice inside the tube and around the cup from getting over the lip of the cup (the Titanic effect).
I would rather deal with dry hits than flooding.
No gain.
It makes me wonder if the larger tank has something to do with it since with the little one i haven't encountered any problems yet.
Not sure i'm making much sense. Very tired.
Referring to the extended Diver inside the XL tank (my second one inside a mini tank is doing fine and dandy so far).
I removed the massive 3mm eko independent coil from inside the tube and left it in the standard setup with the fairly thick (non hollow?) 1.5mm eko (doubled up/whiskers down).
The reason for using the eko being the hope for better flavor vs silica.
The 1.5mm was a compromise (after trying 1/2/3/mm both silica and eko, the 1 and 2 mm doubled, the latter single for obvious reasons) thinking that even though pinched between the cup and the tube it still has the ability to wick sufficiently but not over wick (and thus to possibly have juice drip down the center of the pin) and at the same time prevent the level of the juice inside the tube and around the cup from getting over the lip of the cup (the Titanic effect).
I would rather deal with dry hits than flooding.
No gain.
It makes me wonder if the larger tank has something to do with it since with the little one i haven't encountered any problems yet.
Not sure i'm making much sense. Very tired.
Hey Idaho, i hope you can post your results on here. Im hoping that solves, or at least helps, the leaking problem. Thanks
Hey guys,
Thought i would post some feedback on what i have been using with the Diver. I have been using 1.5 eko and have switched to using silver NR wire. I have been twisting the wires together using the method that was shown on a youtube video posted a few pages back. Well so far so good
The twisting method has been so much easier for me than trying to tie the wires in a knot and i would like to thank whoever posted that info!! So, i am finding this method together with silver NR wire to be working faultlesly. Hope this bit of feedback helps someone else.
All the best and happy diving folks
Thought i would post some feedback on what i have been using with the Diver. I have been using 1.5 eko and have switched to using silver NR wire. I have been twisting the wires together using the method that was shown on a youtube video posted a few pages back. Well so far so good
The twisting method has been so much easier for me than trying to tie the wires in a knot and i would like to thank whoever posted that info!! So, i am finding this method together with silver NR wire to be working faultlesly. Hope this bit of feedback helps someone else.All the best and happy diving folks
Hey guys,
Thought i would post some feedback on what i have been using with the Diver. I have been using 1.5 eko and have switched to using silver NR wire. I have been twisting the wires together using the method that was shown on a youtube video posted a few pages back. Well so far so good
All the best and happy diving folks
Glad the vid helped! And it is better to hear a success story! So are you using 1 strand of 1.5? and are you exp any center pin leaks?
OK, I don't mean to muddle the conversation, and apologies for the long post, but I have a hunch as to why a small number of folks are having leaking issues with the Diver.
I have been running my Divers through the Twelve Labors of Herakles*. On my last few rebuilds, I took a bit of time to press down on the ceramic when I was inserting it into the Diver base. Frankly, the ceramics never really went in as far as I thought they should, but I didn't give it too much thought, because I am relatively new to vaping and very new to the Diver and carto tanks in general, so I had no frame of reference.
So these last few builds, getting the ceramic that extra 1-2mm into the base of the Diver seems to have completely, utterly, 100% gotten rid of any and all juice appearing on the Diver pin, on the base or in the 510 connector of the mod. I mean bone-dry, no condensation, no removing the Scuba to wipe off any amount of juice whatsoever. I just left a full tank of Pluid - a.k.a. The Tank Terror of Tokyo - sitting in my Scuba Diver since last night, vaping about 10-12 hits since last night, on my Hippo/Provari, and it is as dry as the Sahara.
So here's a working theory: the ceramics are the weak link in the Diver, along with the Killer, the various gg attys that use ceramics, and any other atty that uses a ceramic - because they are not only made by somebody else, they are almost certainly all made in China, and cannot possibly (wherever they are made) be held to the same exacting specs as the devices in which they are destined to be installed.
Why is this important? Pull out the pin from the bottom of a Diver. Notice that the pin has two different diameters, narrower at the head, and wider towards the base that contacts the 510 connector. I assume that the ceramic has to go deep enough so that the bottom of the ceramic meets and seals with the thicker part of the pin. If the ceramic does not go into the Diver base far enough, it will not reach this thicker part of the pin, and not make a seal. This changes the pressure dynamics ever so slightly in any tank, leading to too much juice feeding into the Diver, gurgling, flooding and leaks. Please note, in this scenario, it would not leak through the gap between the pole and the ceramic, it would find the easiest route out, which is through the pole's center hole.
Most of my ceramics are newly-purchased. If they are a fraction of a millimeter thicker at the base than those made a few months ago, that could mean the difference between an easily-built Diver and leaking nightmares.
I will test this theory further by taking a few of my 30+ CE2s, and filing down the base a tiny bit.
Addendum: I suspect a lot of people, myself included, have been hesitant to press down too hard on the ceramic, for fear of breaking it. I've broken a couple during insertion or removal in my attys that use CE2s, they can be a bit brittle. Note, also, that this would not affect the Killer, as it works differently, and this would happen in any tank - Scuba, SnP, etc.
* no, not "Hercules", "Herakles", don't be peasants!
I have been running my Divers through the Twelve Labors of Herakles*. On my last few rebuilds, I took a bit of time to press down on the ceramic when I was inserting it into the Diver base. Frankly, the ceramics never really went in as far as I thought they should, but I didn't give it too much thought, because I am relatively new to vaping and very new to the Diver and carto tanks in general, so I had no frame of reference.
So these last few builds, getting the ceramic that extra 1-2mm into the base of the Diver seems to have completely, utterly, 100% gotten rid of any and all juice appearing on the Diver pin, on the base or in the 510 connector of the mod. I mean bone-dry, no condensation, no removing the Scuba to wipe off any amount of juice whatsoever. I just left a full tank of Pluid - a.k.a. The Tank Terror of Tokyo - sitting in my Scuba Diver since last night, vaping about 10-12 hits since last night, on my Hippo/Provari, and it is as dry as the Sahara.
So here's a working theory: the ceramics are the weak link in the Diver, along with the Killer, the various gg attys that use ceramics, and any other atty that uses a ceramic - because they are not only made by somebody else, they are almost certainly all made in China, and cannot possibly (wherever they are made) be held to the same exacting specs as the devices in which they are destined to be installed.
Why is this important? Pull out the pin from the bottom of a Diver. Notice that the pin has two different diameters, narrower at the head, and wider towards the base that contacts the 510 connector. I assume that the ceramic has to go deep enough so that the bottom of the ceramic meets and seals with the thicker part of the pin. If the ceramic does not go into the Diver base far enough, it will not reach this thicker part of the pin, and not make a seal. This changes the pressure dynamics ever so slightly in any tank, leading to too much juice feeding into the Diver, gurgling, flooding and leaks. Please note, in this scenario, it would not leak through the gap between the pole and the ceramic, it would find the easiest route out, which is through the pole's center hole.
Most of my ceramics are newly-purchased. If they are a fraction of a millimeter thicker at the base than those made a few months ago, that could mean the difference between an easily-built Diver and leaking nightmares.
I will test this theory further by taking a few of my 30+ CE2s, and filing down the base a tiny bit.
Addendum: I suspect a lot of people, myself included, have been hesitant to press down too hard on the ceramic, for fear of breaking it. I've broken a couple during insertion or removal in my attys that use CE2s, they can be a bit brittle. Note, also, that this would not affect the Killer, as it works differently, and this would happen in any tank - Scuba, SnP, etc.
* no, not "Hercules", "Herakles", don't be peasants!
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Further addendum: this not only jibes with the evidence I've gathered from 110 pages (!!!!!!!) of Diver talk here, but with what I've read about perseas' investigation into leaking issues a few people have had with the new SnP/Diver combo. FWIW.
What is the highest ohm wrap anybody has managed to make on the Diver and how?
i have gotten my diver to almost 4ohms with 34g Nichrome. About 8 tiny wraps on 1.5mm solid core ecowool.
Well, I'd say you should be able to squeeze about 1.25 inches or so of R wire onto a coil. An inch of 36g Kanthal A-1 (the finest gauge A-1 I see available) gives you about 3 ohms., or about 3.6 ohms for 1.25 inches. You might be able to hit 4 ohms, but not sure if you could get enough juice flowing to feed that much wire.
Which video is this? I am having mixed results with my divers as well. One leaks, one has dry hits. Gotta get this fixed or my wife is going back to carto's.....
A video on how to attach NR to R wire without a welder by Scott. Minute 6 starts minute 8ish he is twisting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kZVFOA-X7c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kZVFOA-X7c
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