Atmistique Atomizers
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about V1 and leaking..
I never had a problem with this, except in case the tank cant hold the vacuum
but I think if it leaks, it will go between the base and the ceramic
you can try to tighten it with a small piece of heat shrink tube.
I try with some pictures, thats more easy then in english
View attachment 277218
View attachment 277219
View attachment 277220
Actually it can leak from the inside and down the pin. So the rubber o-ring sitting on top of the screw head will prevent both hypothesis.
It took me 2 seconds to stop the leaking. That and a longer wick leg up and around the diver tube made it leak free and gurgle free. From 1st to last drop.
Diver v2 (Enezlis) : Microcoil & Cotton Setup√
WHAT WENT IN IT?
Lily's Sugar-N-Cream Cotton Yarn inside a 0.8Ω Microcoil made with 28AWG Kanthal.
ALL CLEANED UP AND READY FOR WORK:
MICROCOIL PREPARED:
28g Kanthal, 6/7 wraps over a standard toothpick. The microcoil was prepared separately and the NR legs were attached later using my Wire Welder Piko3. I had cut short my coil legs so that the NR welds could have greater affinity.
MICROCOIL METERED:
Multimeter 'zeroed' for 0.8Ω. Microcoil tested for 1.6Ω. Thus, resultant impedance of the coil stands at 0.8Ω.
MICROCOIL MOUNTED:
Since the toothpick couldn't have passed thru the cutouts of the ceramic cup - a needle was used as guidance (so that the coil didn't sag below while the legs were pulled in). I choose to place the microcoil well inside the cup. With clear ceramic walls atop and the 'bore' right in the middle of the cup's cut outs. I find this helps in the wicking process ~ eliminates over wicking, as there is a well balanced juice inlet - but not a 'free-flow'.
COIL TEST FIRED:
Note: There is a high discharge hybrid battery inside the mod (specs in the end).
WICK PREPARED:
Note: The S-n-C yarn needs adequate pre-boiling (20 minutes approx) to make it inert. I do it twice ~ initial boiling (with some salt added into it) for 10 minutes, then rinse it and a reboil with regular water for another 10 minutes.
WICK INSERTED AND TRIMMED:
Note: The tail ends of the wick were trimmed to about 7.5mm each ~ this is the exact length needed for the ends to just sit flush with the ceramics bottom.
FINAL INSPECTION OF THE SETUP AND WICK TUCKED IN :
Note: The wick ends were not pushed into the ceramic - but left just tucked-in. In fact there's no viable space between the base wall and the ceramic to place any wick inside. Which is not required as well - 'coz any excess wick in the bottom would pull in juice and that could unnecessarily flood the bottom.
SETUP JUICED & TEST FIRED:
DIVER V2 FULLY ASSEMBLED:
Note: Before assembling the entire unit the build was metered again. The resistance continued to be 0.8Ω.
DIVER PLACED IN TANK AND DRIP TIP ATTACHED:
No jig was used to insert the Diver v2. I just lubed it along the body and juiced the internal O-rings a bit. It went in smoothly without any measurable resistance. The driptip is Atmistique's Stealth.
READY TO VAPE:
AND BINGO!
BOTTOMLINE:
I am loving it
It's now over 12 hrs. that I'm continuously using it... three-fourth of a tank already thru ~ and I'm getting perfect VTF! Not once a dry-hit or any gurgling. It is thus wicking well ~ nicely keeping up to my chain vaping, which confirms that the juice feed is pretty much spot on despite a low ohm build (aka high heat and instantaneous firing). The vapor is tad warm, about 7 in a scale of 10 (10 being hot), very similar to the Killer705 ~ but with a twist! The quality of vape is astounding! I'm noticing some finer nuances of the flavor - a full bodied taste, which was not known in it's earlier avatar. Though taste will be juice dependent - yet with my 70/30 PG/VG 'fruit candy' serum (Pink Poison ~ one of the finest from Stinky Canuck) I'm finding it tastes better than in my Kayfuns. In one word: Splendid!
For all the Diver v1 heartache stories - let me reassure you that this beastly Carto-RBA isn't leaking... not one wet-spot as of now and no over-wicking either. It's 510 bottom is bone dry! Thus, ditto the mod's head. Overall, this is everything done right√ I applaud Team Atmistique for a job well done - and Thank you Konstantinos for hearing us out, wherein rolling out a product that is par excellence!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAUTION:
It's not your ability to make sub-Ohm coils ~ what matters most is what batteries you use to run it. For sub-Ohms you must have a 10Amps or higher discharge rate, else it could be disastrous. Higher the better ~ eg. the Samsung INR18650-20Q, Sony US18650V3, Sony US18650VTC3 and the likes.
DISCLAIMER:
It is always recommended to use a coil having an impedance of 1Ω and above. Sub-Ohm resistances are not recommended for any user of any device. Because, not every battery currently in the market can safely sustain / handle such loads. And even an experienced user cannot always be certain / confident of the Amp limit of his batteries.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHAT WENT IN IT?
Lily's Sugar-N-Cream Cotton Yarn inside a 0.8Ω Microcoil made with 28AWG Kanthal.
ALL CLEANED UP AND READY FOR WORK:
MICROCOIL PREPARED:
28g Kanthal, 6/7 wraps over a standard toothpick. The microcoil was prepared separately and the NR legs were attached later using my Wire Welder Piko3. I had cut short my coil legs so that the NR welds could have greater affinity.
MICROCOIL METERED:
Multimeter 'zeroed' for 0.8Ω. Microcoil tested for 1.6Ω. Thus, resultant impedance of the coil stands at 0.8Ω.
MICROCOIL MOUNTED:
Since the toothpick couldn't have passed thru the cutouts of the ceramic cup - a needle was used as guidance (so that the coil didn't sag below while the legs were pulled in). I choose to place the microcoil well inside the cup. With clear ceramic walls atop and the 'bore' right in the middle of the cup's cut outs. I find this helps in the wicking process ~ eliminates over wicking, as there is a well balanced juice inlet - but not a 'free-flow'.
COIL TEST FIRED:
Note: There is a high discharge hybrid battery inside the mod (specs in the end).
WICK PREPARED:
Note: The S-n-C yarn needs adequate pre-boiling (20 minutes approx) to make it inert. I do it twice ~ initial boiling (with some salt added into it) for 10 minutes, then rinse it and a reboil with regular water for another 10 minutes.
WICK INSERTED AND TRIMMED:
Note: The tail ends of the wick were trimmed to about 7.5mm each ~ this is the exact length needed for the ends to just sit flush with the ceramics bottom.
FINAL INSPECTION OF THE SETUP AND WICK TUCKED IN :
Note: The wick ends were not pushed into the ceramic - but left just tucked-in. In fact there's no viable space between the base wall and the ceramic to place any wick inside. Which is not required as well - 'coz any excess wick in the bottom would pull in juice and that could unnecessarily flood the bottom.
SETUP JUICED & TEST FIRED:
DIVER V2 FULLY ASSEMBLED:
Note: Before assembling the entire unit the build was metered again. The resistance continued to be 0.8Ω.
DIVER PLACED IN TANK AND DRIP TIP ATTACHED:
No jig was used to insert the Diver v2. I just lubed it along the body and juiced the internal O-rings a bit. It went in smoothly without any measurable resistance. The driptip is Atmistique's Stealth.
READY TO VAPE:
AND BINGO!
BOTTOMLINE:
I am loving it
It's now over 12 hrs. that I'm continuously using it... three-fourth of a tank already thru ~ and I'm getting perfect VTF! Not once a dry-hit or any gurgling. It is thus wicking well ~ nicely keeping up to my chain vaping, which confirms that the juice feed is pretty much spot on despite a low ohm build (aka high heat and instantaneous firing). The vapor is tad warm, about 7 in a scale of 10 (10 being hot), very similar to the Killer705 ~ but with a twist! The quality of vape is astounding! I'm noticing some finer nuances of the flavor - a full bodied taste, which was not known in it's earlier avatar. Though taste will be juice dependent - yet with my 70/30 PG/VG 'fruit candy' serum (Pink Poison ~ one of the finest from Stinky Canuck) I'm finding it tastes better than in my Kayfuns. In one word: Splendid!For all the Diver v1 heartache stories - let me reassure you that this beastly Carto-RBA isn't leaking... not one wet-spot as of now and no over-wicking either. It's 510 bottom is bone dry! Thus, ditto the mod's head. Overall, this is everything done right√ I applaud Team Atmistique for a job well done - and Thank you Konstantinos for hearing us out, wherein rolling out a product that is par excellence!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAUTION:
It's not your ability to make sub-Ohm coils ~ what matters most is what batteries you use to run it. For sub-Ohms you must have a 10Amps or higher discharge rate, else it could be disastrous. Higher the better ~ eg. the Samsung INR18650-20Q, Sony US18650V3, Sony US18650VTC3 and the likes.
DISCLAIMER:
It is always recommended to use a coil having an impedance of 1Ω and above. Sub-Ohm resistances are not recommended for any user of any device. Because, not every battery currently in the market can safely sustain / handle such loads. And even an experienced user cannot always be certain / confident of the Amp limit of his batteries.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Really? That sucks man. Sad
Nah, it's OK. I don't think of it as a lost Ithaka, I think of it as a very expensive Penny v2!
Great post on the Diver v2.
To add to the stable of Greeks pushing engineering boundaries, check out the first video in this article: a genius Greek engineer with patents, developing a combo rally and off-road car. That thing can race and go anywhere, without making you upchuck your lunch. Brilliant.
Konstantine: we will eventually need a new plain tube for the Scuba to show off the Enizlis.
Actually, 10A is about the norm for an 18650. I've been using the 1600mAh Efest 18650 with a 30A maximum discharge rate and it doesn't even break a sweat with sub ohm usage. In fact they are so efficient that they seem to last just as long as any 10A with 2000+mAh.
Sent from my iPad mini using Tapatalk
Diver v2 (Enezlis) : Microcoil & Cotton Setup√
BOTTOMLINE:
I am loving it
For all the Diver v1 heartache stories - let me reassure you that this beastly Carto-RBA isn't leaking... not one wet-spot as of now and no over-wicking either. It's 510 bottom is bone dry! Thus, ditto the mod's head. Overall, this is everything done right√ I applaud Team Atmistique for a job well done - and Thank you Konstantinos for hearing us out, wherein rolling out a product that is par excellence!
You rock Q
Very nice write up and thanks for the photos
Ok, now that Q has fanned the flames of pent up demand, are we still going to have Diver 2 availability tomorrow?
Thanks, Q...beautiful work as always.
Sent from my iPad
Thanks, Q...beautiful work as always.
Sent from my iPad
Very professional reviews by qorax and Felix, thank you Gents. I hope my wife permits money for own D2 
@qorax: D2 fits accurately in SnP?
@qorax: D2 fits accurately in SnP?
Thanks raqball, Akdare and buergermeester√ You guys made my day
@Nach:
Well said√ Many still continue to use the 'other' protected batts and some try sub-ohming with 18350s as well. A caution here and there could serve the community better.
@buergermeester
This avatar of the Diver is exactly the same in it's dimensions to it's earlier version ~ as such it should fit fine in the GP-SnP. And as usual - if you use the SnP with Divers (this one too) - it's wiser to slide it to the bottom while filling it up ~ less chances of a mess-up. But 'fit' it will perfectly.
@Nach:
Well said√ Many still continue to use the 'other' protected batts and some try sub-ohming with 18350s as well. A caution here and there could serve the community better.
@buergermeester
This avatar of the Diver is exactly the same in it's dimensions to it's earlier version ~ as such it should fit fine in the GP-SnP. And as usual - if you use the SnP with Divers (this one too) - it's wiser to slide it to the bottom while filling it up ~ less chances of a mess-up. But 'fit' it will perfectly.
I only use 18350 mods and I never go under 1.2ohms. Even then I feel a little iffy... I generally try to hover around 1.4-1.6 ish with 18350's..
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