Atmistique Atomizers
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I shredded a couple of o rings getting my Sophia into my SnP tank. I finally, finally got the carto driver through the tank with a lot of lube, and a back and forth twisting motion. I found that after I finally got the driver in, it seemed to "seat" the o rings, and the carto driver was easier to get in after that. I was using the brown rings in the bottom and the red rings in the top. The red ones are softer.
After they've been seated, try wicking your diver before inserting, it might help keep the rings out of the holes...
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I submerge my SnP in warm water for 10 minutes. The complete set, with O-rings, caps etc. Then slide a 'well lubed' Diver + CartoTool thru it.
They go in smoothly. Stock O-rings. Nothing changed or modded.
They go in smoothly. Stock O-rings. Nothing changed or modded.
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I submerge my SnP in warm water for 10 minutes. The complete set, with O-rings, caps etc. Then slide a 'well lubed' Diver + CartoTool thru it.
The go in smoothly. Stock O-rings. Nothing changed or modded.
I will try that myself next time, I'm sure the warmed o rings are more pliable. Thanks, Q!
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Same here. I did de-flange one of my v1 Divers this weekend with a Dremel, working beautifully in my Phiniac right now.
Who knew the v2 would end up selling more Billet Boxes, and vice versa?
Folks, please send me a PM if you need either sets of 4 o-rings to replace the lower acetal in the v1 and/or single o-rings to replace the one on the base below the threads. Include your mailing address.
Ive been playing with my new Enzelis Diver V2 over the past couple of days and Im now loving it. I like it better than the Diver V1 in some substantial ways. It took me a while to experiment with different builds to find a working setup that wicks well and keeps up with me at 1.5ohms. I havent been able to get various gauges of Ekowool to work yet, but Ive finally found good lengths to trim the standard 2mm silica with 32awg r/nr wire setup.
The Diver V2 seems to have been completely redesigned. Although I think that the build is a little easier, the hardest part for me is getting the tube and the base aligned to thread together properly. One great thing about the Diver V2 IMHO is the redesigned center pin and 510 threading on the base. The Diver V1 center pin has sharp edges and was stripping gold and silver plated contacts from my mods. The Diver V2 center pin is not as abrasive. I have a whole bunch of mods that the Diver V1 just doesnt work on because it leaks (like the GP Paps) or I cant get airflow (like the Chi You). The Diver V2 works flawlessly on these mods and its like large portions of my arsenal are now available to me and the Diver. I can even get the Diver V2 to work well with flat top caps if theres a large enough gap. There is clearly more threading on the Diver V2s 510 connection and I think that the airflow is better.
The body style of the Enzelis gave me pause when I initially attempted to use my Driver/Cartodiver and refilling drip tip. Im able to use them, but I need to consider the orientation to do it right without spilling. Otherwise, Im very happy with my choice of body style. Although it didnt attract me at first, all Diver V2s are shaped this way internally and I like the uniqueness of the look (not mistakable for a cartomizer) and the fact that a tank will hold more e-liquid with this style.
I give a big thumbs up to the Diver V2. I just ordered another one this morning. Ive been using KFLs and R91s a lot lately specifically because they work on any mod and offer a consistently good vape. IMHO, the Diver offers a more saturated and full vape. Im very happy to be moving back to the Diver since the V2 seems to work better with other mods and performs better than V1 in terms of leaking (even with the V1, I only experience a drop of juice on mods center pin which isnt a huge deal to me).
The Diver V2 seems to have been completely redesigned. Although I think that the build is a little easier, the hardest part for me is getting the tube and the base aligned to thread together properly. One great thing about the Diver V2 IMHO is the redesigned center pin and 510 threading on the base. The Diver V1 center pin has sharp edges and was stripping gold and silver plated contacts from my mods. The Diver V2 center pin is not as abrasive. I have a whole bunch of mods that the Diver V1 just doesnt work on because it leaks (like the GP Paps) or I cant get airflow (like the Chi You). The Diver V2 works flawlessly on these mods and its like large portions of my arsenal are now available to me and the Diver. I can even get the Diver V2 to work well with flat top caps if theres a large enough gap. There is clearly more threading on the Diver V2s 510 connection and I think that the airflow is better.
The body style of the Enzelis gave me pause when I initially attempted to use my Driver/Cartodiver and refilling drip tip. Im able to use them, but I need to consider the orientation to do it right without spilling. Otherwise, Im very happy with my choice of body style. Although it didnt attract me at first, all Diver V2s are shaped this way internally and I like the uniqueness of the look (not mistakable for a cartomizer) and the fact that a tank will hold more e-liquid with this style.
I give a big thumbs up to the Diver V2. I just ordered another one this morning. Ive been using KFLs and R91s a lot lately specifically because they work on any mod and offer a consistently good vape. IMHO, the Diver offers a more saturated and full vape. Im very happy to be moving back to the Diver since the V2 seems to work better with other mods and performs better than V1 in terms of leaking (even with the V1, I only experience a drop of juice on mods center pin which isnt a huge deal to me).
Firestorm your comment about the 510 thread and pin are very useful to us
What else than
and happy Diving...again
What else than
and happy Diving...again
Ha, just built and installed my new Enezlis in my SnP... I thought that went in a little too easily... and the Sofia that was there previously went in a bit too easily as well... turns out the o-rings on my SnP are due for a changin'.
(good thing I have a hundred of those as well)
(good thing I have a hundred of those as well)
I got the SS post, but I haven't been able to use it at all yet until I get this o-ring shredding issue ironed out.
Why hasn't anyone found a way to eliminate the ceramic cup in these type devices ? Possibly using protank style head in diver form factor. Sounds easy enough.
The Protank heads are cheap because they are made of metals that you really don't want touching your juices.
(I am working on some ideas how to make this sort of setup plug-and-play like a Protank, but safe like a ceramic)
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