Atmistique Atomizers

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qorax

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We work on a new quartz tank the "Minion". It will be a simple tank as most of you prefer.
Cant make the Scuba pyrex, we cant fine enough "space" for that.

Thanks. Any images of the 'Minion'?

And also, will the Black Caps be ever available? I was looking to buy your Pyrex Tank (which is available now) but then got stuck with those caps being unavailable.
 

qorax

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We work on a new quartz tank the "Minion". It will be a simple tank as most of you prefer.
Cant make the Scuba pyrex, we cant fine enough "space" for that.

What is the OD and ID of the Scuba tank. I will check with IBTanked if they could make one ~ b'coz without the 'centre ring' my Scuba isn't looking that good.
 

Konstantinos

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Black end-caps will be available in about 1-2 weeks. Until then we possibly have balck end-caps for the Scuba also.

Scuba OD is 22mm. Body has OD 20mm and ID 16mm.

"Minion" almost
pyrex tank.jpg
 

qorax

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Black end-caps will be available in about 1-2 weeks. Until then we possibly have balck end-caps for the Scuba also.

Scuba OD is 22mm. Body has OD 20mm and ID 16mm.

"Minion" almost
View attachment 279868

I'm sure you meant to say the ID is 20.4mm and the wall thickness is 1.6mm, isn't it? -Re: Scuba Tank Tube
^But, that doesn't sound right either.

And that 'Minion' is 22mm OD, right? I want a plain 22mm tank for my Diver v2.
 
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Gunslinger317

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Oct 7, 2012
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ok so I have my v2 up and running. Special thank you to Konstantinos for insuring I received flangless base even though it wasnt available at time of check out. This is the type of customer service that keeps people coming back. I built my own coil as I wanted lower resistance than the standard. Build was much easier than v1 and I finaly have a rba carto in my arsenal that I dont get dry burnt hits with. I may never vape on another device until atmostiqe comes out with the next version. Could not be more satisfied with my setup> thankyou.
 

Kataphraktos

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Some observations on the v2 Diver as I test its boundaries:

With the v1, if I filled the tank to capacity, leaving no air to create a pressure differential, juice would leak out of the pin (as we all know). With the v2, leaving zero air makes the first draws a bit dry - not dry hits, just tasting a tad off. Once you vape off a bit of juice, and create a small air pocket, it goes to normal, of course. I find this interesting, because the v2 behaves exactly like any other carto-type device. This is yet another significant improvement over the v1.
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I had gotten used to removing the v1 from a tank with the cartotool at any angle, even upside down. With the shape of the Enezlis tube, if there is juice in your tank, do not try this at home, kiddies! Having forgotten the shape, my hands ended up with about 20% of the juice in the tank as a protective coating.

I then started laughing at my sheer idiocy so hard, I fell off of my chair.
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Finally, the v2 is both more and less forgiving at the same time. I have found if I stick to the right amount of wick, it is difficult to get the build wrong. In this way, it is much more forgiving than the v1. On the other hand, the v2 is less open to experimentation. When I try a single strand of wick, I get gurgling and flooding (but no leaking!), if I try more wick, like 3 strands, it does not feed properly.

For 99% of customers, this is a major, major improvement. Sure, I like to mess around, but most people just want to build it, pop it in a tank, and forget it for two weeks. The closer ease-of-use gets to the "pull an analog out, light it up, inhale" experience, the more accepting the vast majority of consumers will be of this technology. Cheap, easy, mediocre products exist, but the high-end market needs to start making its devices more accessible to those who don't want vaping to be an engineering experiment.

Thus, the v2 is a step in the right direction, a device that is easy to build, and provided you stick to simple, straight-forward build methods, is a very forgiving device for the novice with little to no RBA experience.
 

Nach

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I got it out.... I had to unscrew the base while in the tank, then remove the caps, then push the top tube out the opposite way.

There is a problem I have experienced in all four times I've inserted the Diver v2 into the SnP tank... That is o-ring shredding. Let me explain.

The Diver v2's juice inlet slots have sharp edges and as they pass through o-rings, they snip off a piece the same width of the juice slots. This has happened 4 times in a row now and have shredded a total of 8 o-rings. I feel like these edges need to be chamfered. I will try to grind down the edges with my dremel to smooth them out a little bit, but I've already had a replacement SnP sent to me (received today) thinking it was a problem with the tolerances on the SnP. This is undoubtedly due to the juice slots in the Diver, from my experimentation.

Just thought I'd share my observations.
 
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