i'm beginning to wonder where my order is.... its been in Ontario (opposite end of the country) since the 10th according to Canada Post but, 17 track says they're still in Greece...
Atmistique Atomizers
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Modify the 'destination' field (on 17track) and it'd show the same as CP.
ohok, thx Q. any chance you can run down to the post office/customs and demand the release of my order
ohok, thx Q. any chance you can run down to the post office/customs and demand the release of my order
gastroenteritis: my little son brought it in our home and we all here
WhoDothScuba Happy Diving there and as i can see from your avatar...twice !!!
MahdiMuh the important is to receive your order. Pls keep us inform
Ok, here's an update. I went to the post office and they said they left it at my apartments office. I went to the apartment office and they said they didn't get it, so I went back to the post office. They again re-affirmed that it is at the office. I went back to the office and the lady said she gave it to my roommate 3 days ago. It's strange that my roommate has supposedly had my package all this time and never told me. The sucky thing is, he's over at the mountain snowboarding for the day, so I will have to ask him about it when he gets back tonight. I swear I could film a million dollar movie about this quest for my V2. Such a drama. Haha. Im sure there are more updates to come.
gastroenteritis: my little son brought it in our home and we all here
Silver lining: diet!
Feel better.
Diver + Billet Box airflow issues. I has them.
I'm running identical Diver set ups; 2.3 ohm, 3/32", SnC cotton yarn. One is in a Scuba on a Provari (with a Hippo v2). The other is in my Billet Box. Scuba is fine.
I do have the slot in the center pin aligned with the channels in the 510 connector. And that channel is pointed at the air holes in the side of the BB.
Kataphraktos had suggested to not screw in the brass connector too tightly, as it could cut off the air...and he's right. I've even removed the flat, red washer from around the positive connector, and, while better, the draw is still really, really tight. To the point of sounding like wind coming through a crack in a door.
Suggestions, anyone?
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I'm running identical Diver set ups; 2.3 ohm, 3/32", SnC cotton yarn. One is in a Scuba on a Provari (with a Hippo v2). The other is in my Billet Box. Scuba is fine.
I do have the slot in the center pin aligned with the channels in the 510 connector. And that channel is pointed at the air holes in the side of the BB.
Kataphraktos had suggested to not screw in the brass connector too tightly, as it could cut off the air...and he's right. I've even removed the flat, red washer from around the positive connector, and, while better, the draw is still really, really tight. To the point of sounding like wind coming through a crack in a door.
Suggestions, anyone?
Sent from my iPad
Locate roommate ------> Commence to smacking him in the head!
Its cool. A package came for him today. Im holding it hostage until I get mine back.
Flanged or flangeless?
Here is my theory - but ONLY a theory: Microcoils take up a lot of space, and leave little room in the cup for airflow. In the Scuba, this doesn't create an issue, but the way the 510 connector acts as a natural airflow restrictor in the BB may compound with a microcoil to create this behavior.
What I have done is to seat the microcoil ABOVE the cup, resting on the lips of the cup at the top. This has the added benefit of letting you build a slightly wider microcoil, and hitting the higher resistances which work better in a BB, as they give you slightly more battery life.
Also, I use organic cotton balls in the v2 - it really is the best wick material for an atty that is already nearly impossible to get wrong IMO. (I use SnC in Spheroids, though).
I need assistance.
I got in my Diver v2s this week, I tried them out with the supplied ceramic and coils in 35mm configuration. It worked good with bobas bounty.
Today I received my rebuild materials. I made a few wicks with 3mm silica running about 2.5ohms for 45mm configuration. I am expiriencing leaking from the bottom post I was using pluid.
Does anyone have advice or suggestions?
Thanks
I got in my Diver v2s this week, I tried them out with the supplied ceramic and coils in 35mm configuration. It worked good with bobas bounty.
Today I received my rebuild materials. I made a few wicks with 3mm silica running about 2.5ohms for 45mm configuration. I am expiriencing leaking from the bottom post I was using pluid.
Does anyone have advice or suggestions?
Thanks
Is this with the 45mm tube?
The only way you can get leaking in a v2 is if the tank is not airtight. Which tank?
I assume you have a v2 in 35mm and a v2 in 45mm. Can you swap the bases and see what happens? Take the base from the 35mm v2 and screw it onto the 45mm tube, then put it in the (I assume) XL tank. Leave the coils as they are. If it leaks as well, it is a tank integrity issue. If it does not, then we can troubleshoot further.
Loki ss1 tanks, I have 2 v2 bases, 2 35mm extensions and 2 45mm extensions. The coil leads are 32ga.
Flangeless Enezlis. I'll absolutely try your suggestion. Makes sense. I use cotton balls in my Kayfun...and until today, in my Diver and Sophia. The correct amount of cotton thru the coil tended to be compressed between the ceramic cup and the top tube, resulting in wicking issues. I have found more consistency for me with the yarn. Note that for the carto RBA's, I "deconstruct" the yarn. There are 4 threads in each yarn. I use 5 threads, and it is wicking correctly for my juice. I use the yarn in my Spheroid, too.
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Swap the bases between the 35mm (which isn't leaking) and the 45mm (which is leaking). As they are, do not recoil or change the bases in any way.
Then put the tubes back in to the same tanks. If the 45mm leaks, it's the tank, likely the o-rings, or the 45mm tube (unlikely).
If the 35mm leaks, then it's something with that Diver base.
Come back with results form this experiment, and we'll go from there.
Both were leaking as 45mm with 3mm wick, both didn't leak as 35mm with suppled wick. I swapped the 45mm extension tubes and they still leaked. I tore them apart before I read you post. I rebuilt one of them as 45mm with 3mm wick and noticed when I take a draw the inside of the tank bubbles. Running it on provari with Loki ring.
Try different ceramic cups..
I have a total of 12 cups and I can only use 4 of them.. The other 8 leak worse than an old russian submarine..
I have a total of 12 cups and I can only use 4 of them.. The other 8 leak worse than an old russian submarine..
Just rebuilt the other on and filled it with home brew juice. About 70%vg, seems to be working just fine. Is the Pluid to thin?
Also to rule out the tanks they were working just fine yesterday with regular cartos...
Also to rule out the tanks they were working just fine yesterday with regular cartos...
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