Atmistique Atomizers

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crazyarms

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Big up to INFRNL for helping me complete my X. This will hold me down until the V2 is released.

GP PAPS X V1.5, GP SnP 23mm , Diver V2, RSM DP.
nanyda5u.jpg

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I need that tip. I've been swapping out all my tips on the SnP, diver and paps 2.5 combo. Nothing seems to look right except that! Where do I get an rsm tip?
 

StrikeIII

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I need that tip. I've been swapping out all my tips on the SnP, diver and paps 2.5 combo. Nothing seems to look right except that! Where do I get an rsm tip?

I actually found a vape shop selling them on ebay a while back. They are not there anymore though.

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mikeulon

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Im thinking about getting a diver v2. But curious as i dont have NR wire, what are the drawbacks of not using NR?

I fought NR for weeks! I almost gave up on divers and the billet box. After making a welder and building coils as suggested I now have 2 V2's and 2 billet boxes. But to directly answer your question. For me my billet box would misfire constantly and with a 1.5 ohm coil it behaved like a 3 ohm at 4 volts
 

qorax

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I'm reposting this here, Why NR-R-NR:

10 Reasons why there could be a Problem with just "R-Wire"...

B'coz it is all about (a)heat dissipation and (b)quality of vape rather than just vape. We all know about "hot legs", from our genesis days, how it effects our vape experience, don't we? Thus, having that "un-utilized" length of heated wire running across the ceramic cup's centre hole is the problem.

It'd produce the "hot rod" effect, which will keep the ceramic cup unnecessarily overheated and contribute to:

1. A metallic taste to the vape, b'coz hot fumes from that part gets linked with vapor,
2. A ceramic taste to the vape after a while, when micro particles from the cup start shredding,
3. A rubbery taste to the vape, since the 'O' rings at the bottom 510 pin start melting,
4. Eventual leaking, when those "O" rings deform over time,
5. Add brittleness to the ceramic, thus the cup shall break sooner than would've otherwise,
6. Overheated Sophia body will keep the juice heated in the tank, which'll start to get thicker,
7. The tanked juice also shall get darker, loose some of it's properties, effecting the vape quality,
8. A smelly vape. All the above adds to fragmentation of the vapour to over odourize it,
9. The warmer tanked juice could effect the "O" rings of the glass, which might loosen and leak,
10. Wasted heat wastes battery life. So, for the same vapor production our batteries will run less time.


The foregoing might not be blatantly visible if we use the Diver once a while, but peeps like me who tend to chain vape ~ this could be a big issue, WILL HAPPEN. Yes, I have tried it. Done that with my Diver v1, when I didn't have a Wire Welder.

There is a reason why CE2 type setups need a NR-R-NR build, IMHO!
 

djbrown01

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Jan 5, 2014
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Ok guys, you are the experts here, I just received a diver v2, but i have no wire zapper to weld the wires together, I tried the pistachio method to join the wires together but it seems like the wire is too thick at the joint to get through the holes in the ceramic, any help you could give me would be appreciated, thanks guys
 

Konstantinos

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Ok guys, you are the experts here, I just received a diver v2, but i have no wire zapper to weld the wires together, I tried the pistachio method to join the wires together but it seems like the wire is too thick at the joint to get through the holes in the ceramic, any help you could give me would be appreciated, thanks guys

Pls take a look also here How to: Diver set-up coils - YouTube
hope it helps you
 

Kataphraktos

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Ok guys, you are the experts here, I just received a diver v2, but i have no wire zapper to weld the wires together, I tried the pistachio method to join the wires together but it seems like the wire is too thick at the joint to get through the holes in the ceramic, any help you could give me would be appreciated, thanks guys

The join should not be anywhere near the holes in the bottom of the ceramic. All of the center R wire should be touching wick. This means the joins should be at the top of the cup where the wick is. Only NR wire should run down the inside of the cup and through the tiny holes in the bottom. Put another way: all the wire between the two joins should be wrapped around wick. The joins should be touching the wick. You can even have a bit of the NR wire on either or both sides touching wick.
 

Kataphraktos

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I thought I had it pretty good because after I wrapped it around my nail the joins in the wire were only about 1/8 of an inch of the legs of the resistance wire

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Ah, ok. If you are building on a nail, the joins should be touching the nail as well, then. That 1/8th inch of R hanging off the nail might become a hot leg, as it won't get juiced by the wick. That's why the Diver needs the R/NR setup, the wires heading down into the cup cannot heat up or you get burnt flavor, muted flavor, etc.
 
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