I'm confused. Why the cig filters (which many have tried as cart filler)? What wrong with using almost anything to simply hold the juice? Cotton, foam, poly etc?
The menthol infused papers/filters I understand.
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The menthol infused papers/filters I understand.
A special word of thanks to Bubo for sending me some silica rope!
Thank you Bubo! Check your mail please!
Hmmmmm, this stuff is nice......
Thank you Bubo! Check your mail please!
Hmmmmm, this stuff is nice......
21 some odd days to get from Florida to South Africa... for $2 
Not too shabby!
Not too shabby!
21 some odd days to get from Florida to South Africa... for $2
You lie, was $5!
Thanks again Bubo!
$5?! Did you have to pay customs or something? I just paid the guy $2 and he gave me change!
Bubo, I see the Postal services charged $1.44 and the customs declaration says $5.
My mistake.....
I'm also impressed with the speed it took!
After the Fifa Wordlcup it seems the world knows where we are now.... lol
My mistake.....
I'm also impressed with the speed it took!
After the Fifa Wordlcup it seems the world knows where we are now.... lol
Hey friends... I am new to the Forum, but I have been vaping for 3 months, I do not write well in English, and now I am doing a great effort to write this.
For several days I am browsing this thread and reading your experiences very carefully. And I am very impressed with their work and their ability of creation. Amazing job.
First, please forgive me for my English, is bad, and as I said, to write takes to me a lot of time. I am trying not to use translators.
OK, then... I have the intention of building the l3oertjie mod, and later the KYFlyer67 version, but I would like to try to build a prototype that meets the following characteristics, without losing the effectiveness achieved by you in yours mods
Copper free
Solder free
Glue free
Fully assembled mechanically and 100% in stainless steel (except brass fitting).
But before to begin this project, I want to know your opinion, and I would like you tell me if you think that this stuff could be work.
I asked in the local market, and all the components listed in this design are accessible.
Materials:
1 atty connector 501 and the shell.
1 capillary tube stainless steel 3 mm OD and 2 mm ID
1 capillary tube stainless steel 2 mm OD and 1.2mm ID
2 capillaries tubes stainless steel 1 mm OD and 0.5mm ID
soft wire stainless steel 1 mm diameter
soft wire stainless steel 0.5 mm diameter
teflon tape
Process:
Put some teflon tape around one end of the tube 3 mm until obtaining a thickness that fits firmly in the middle of the brass fitting
Fit the tube 3 mm into the hole of the brass fitting and make sure it stay firm
Attach one tube 1 mm to the central tube with the SS wire 1 mm
Fold the 2 mm tube as S-shaped as shown in the pic
Attach the second tube 1 mm at one end of the 2 mm tube with the SS wire 1 mm
Make 2 holes 0.5mm in the brass fitting wall, 1 in the middle of the flat part and another in the middle of the striped part
Make 2 holes 0.5mm in tube 2 mm (with the same distance that the 2 holes in brass fitting)
Pass the 0.5mm SS wire thru the 4 holes and tie the tube to the brass fitting, the torque loop will must to be on the outer side
Isolation of the 2 tubes, Could be made with double sided tape, or with a piece of plastic (could be done with one piece cuted from an ego cartomizador perhaps?), or with teflon?
The rest would continue in the same way described in the first post of this thread.
I attach a pic of this design. It is a preliminar, really bad and quick, but is almost clear.
Would be very important to me that the experimented guys in this method give me his opinions, l3oertjie, KYFlyer67, Scubabatdan, Bubo, MONSTERS OF MODDING... could work? What do you think about? any correction? any suggestion?
Thanks a lot
Gabriel
For several days I am browsing this thread and reading your experiences very carefully. And I am very impressed with their work and their ability of creation. Amazing job.
First, please forgive me for my English, is bad, and as I said, to write takes to me a lot of time. I am trying not to use translators.
OK, then... I have the intention of building the l3oertjie mod, and later the KYFlyer67 version, but I would like to try to build a prototype that meets the following characteristics, without losing the effectiveness achieved by you in yours mods
Copper free
Solder free
Glue free
Fully assembled mechanically and 100% in stainless steel (except brass fitting).
But before to begin this project, I want to know your opinion, and I would like you tell me if you think that this stuff could be work.
I asked in the local market, and all the components listed in this design are accessible.
Materials:
1 atty connector 501 and the shell.
1 capillary tube stainless steel 3 mm OD and 2 mm ID
1 capillary tube stainless steel 2 mm OD and 1.2mm ID
2 capillaries tubes stainless steel 1 mm OD and 0.5mm ID
soft wire stainless steel 1 mm diameter
soft wire stainless steel 0.5 mm diameter
teflon tape
Process:
Put some teflon tape around one end of the tube 3 mm until obtaining a thickness that fits firmly in the middle of the brass fitting
Fit the tube 3 mm into the hole of the brass fitting and make sure it stay firm
Attach one tube 1 mm to the central tube with the SS wire 1 mm
Fold the 2 mm tube as S-shaped as shown in the pic
Attach the second tube 1 mm at one end of the 2 mm tube with the SS wire 1 mm
Make 2 holes 0.5mm in the brass fitting wall, 1 in the middle of the flat part and another in the middle of the striped part
Make 2 holes 0.5mm in tube 2 mm (with the same distance that the 2 holes in brass fitting)
Pass the 0.5mm SS wire thru the 4 holes and tie the tube to the brass fitting, the torque loop will must to be on the outer side
Isolation of the 2 tubes, Could be made with double sided tape, or with a piece of plastic (could be done with one piece cuted from an ego cartomizador perhaps?), or with teflon?
The rest would continue in the same way described in the first post of this thread.
I attach a pic of this design. It is a preliminar, really bad and quick, but is almost clear.
Would be very important to me that the experimented guys in this method give me his opinions, l3oertjie, KYFlyer67, Scubabatdan, Bubo, MONSTERS OF MODDING... could work? What do you think about? any correction? any suggestion?
Thanks a lot
Gabriel
Actually the drawing does it's job quite nicely. I foresee some trouble in a few places. The teflon tape is going to interfere with conductivity, and is it strictly PTFE or has adhesive too? Adhesive would break down in juice. Are you using tjust the outer part of the brass connector (negative, threaded)? The center connector and it's insulator provide more surface area for a tube to contact.
Also, the tight loop is bound to interfere/ break when putting the atty tube on. The other wrapped connections seem as they would shift around to easily too.
I can see what you are going for with nearly all the pieces being SS, but maybe using lead-free silver solder would be a good compromise for safety and strength? l3oertijie's method of wrapping with a copper strand ends up being completely coated in solder anyhow, so there isn't a risk of it leaching into the juice.
Just my thoughts
Also, the tight loop is bound to interfere/ break when putting the atty tube on. The other wrapped connections seem as they would shift around to easily too.
I can see what you are going for with nearly all the pieces being SS, but maybe using lead-free silver solder would be a good compromise for safety and strength? l3oertijie's method of wrapping with a copper strand ends up being completely coated in solder anyhow, so there isn't a risk of it leaching into the juice.
Just my thoughts
Asdaq, thankyou for your thoughts, they are welcomeActually the drawing does it's job quite nicely. I foresee some trouble in a few places. The teflon tape is going to interfere with conductivity, and is it strictly PTFE or has adhesive too? Adhesive would break down in juice. Are you using tjust the outer part of the brass connector (negative, threaded)? The center connector and it's insulator provide more surface area for a tube to contact.
Also, the tight loop is bound to interfere/ break when putting the atty tube on. The other wrapped connections seem as they would shift around to easily too.
I can see what you are going for with nearly all the pieces being SS, but maybe using lead-free silver solder would be a good compromise for safety and strength? l3oertijie's method of wrapping with a copper strand ends up being completely coated in solder anyhow, so there isn't a risk of it leaching into the juice.
Just my thoughts
1. The PTFE dont has adhesive, the function of it is indeed to isolate the center tube from de body and to fix the tube the good as possible, the PTFE would be a replace of the original atty oring that covers the central pole. Anyway, I think, we would see how it works on the road...
2. The tight loop dont interfere with the atty tube, only the 0.5 mm wire that must be placed in one of the small vertical canals of the atty would be a problem, but I think not. The loop must be done in the side that the cover dont reaches. But, maybe the central tube needs a little cut in this end.
3. And, I really love SS, because of that I want to make a prototipe SS 100%, I know, I am stubborn with this.
Thanks again...
Well I agree with asdaq. Basically I don't think it will work, you need solid connections. Why not use the original connector insulator? You'll never get a firm support with Teflon tape.
Your drawing doesn't add up. A connector gives you about 5mm to work in. Assuming 1mm for your isolated space you have about 8mm of stuff shown.
Your drawing doesn't add up. A connector gives you about 5mm to work in. Assuming 1mm for your isolated space you have about 8mm of stuff shown.
Persis,
I would have to agree with asdaq and WillyB. #1 if the centerpost is isolated, how are you going to get + voltage conductivity to complete the circuit? #2 I would rather see the tubes soldered to the adapter than wired to it. I would have a look at this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...arger-volume-replaceable-coil-cartomizer.html
It seems to be inline with what you are trying to acomplish.
Dan
I would have to agree with asdaq and WillyB. #1 if the centerpost is isolated, how are you going to get + voltage conductivity to complete the circuit? #2 I would rather see the tubes soldered to the adapter than wired to it. I would have a look at this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...arger-volume-replaceable-coil-cartomizer.html
It seems to be inline with what you are trying to acomplish.
Dan
I can see it working... But.....
* What is going to keep excess juice from leaking out of the 4 holes? They should be sealed somehow...
* The teflon tape on the bottom of the 3mm tube won't last long (I wouldn't think) And I assume power (+) will be applied normally though a contact below? I really would recommend an original sealing gasket, or a homemade one... Let me know if you need more info on how to make one)
* The 3mm tube could be bent to give a bit more clearance, and center the atty coil
I see it working, as I said, but not for long. The parts should be firmly attached together, I have concerns about teflon tape and wire holding up with daily use....
(And ME?! a "Modding God"??!?!?! I just follow pictures!- Thanks though!)
* What is going to keep excess juice from leaking out of the 4 holes? They should be sealed somehow...
* The teflon tape on the bottom of the 3mm tube won't last long (I wouldn't think) And I assume power (+) will be applied normally though a contact below? I really would recommend an original sealing gasket, or a homemade one... Let me know if you need more info on how to make one)
* The 3mm tube could be bent to give a bit more clearance, and center the atty coil
I see it working, as I said, but not for long. The parts should be firmly attached together, I have concerns about teflon tape and wire holding up with daily use....
(And ME?! a "Modding God"??!?!?! I just follow pictures!
- Thanks though!)
Guys,
3 mm tube will be in contact with the + pole thru the tube itself. (Sorry if I was not clear about that)
The 2 original holes will be somehow sealed
2 (or 4) new holes will be made as in the original design
When I said that the central post would be isolated, I mean to isolated of the other pole
concerning the firmness of the wires holdings and the central tube, if I can not leave them firmly, I will look for another option, but let me see what we get
I will be working as quickly as possible
BUBO, what do you mean when you say homemade sealing gasket ?
Thanks....!!!!!
Gabriel
3 mm tube will be in contact with the + pole thru the tube itself. (Sorry if I was not clear about that)
The 2 original holes will be somehow sealed
2 (or 4) new holes will be made as in the original design
When I said that the central post would be isolated, I mean to isolated of the other pole
concerning the firmness of the wires holdings and the central tube, if I can not leave them firmly, I will look for another option, but let me see what we get
I will be working as quickly as possible
BUBO, what do you mean when you say homemade sealing gasket ?
Thanks....!!!!!
Gabriel
Gabriel,
I have used lead free solder on my design and really REALLY struggled to get the solder to tin to stainless steel. Thanks to Dan, I now know to use a hydrochloric acid containing flux when working on stainless. It is however pretty hard to get hold off in a standard DIY shop.... well, at least in South Africa it is - hence my workaround with the copper wire windings.
I think your idea is sound. I am also working on an "all stainless steel" concept at present. If you have a precision lathe, the centre post wont be a problem. If you don't, you will have to make use of some sort off glue / epoxy / solder.
The lead free solder is quite safe - just the resin fumes that has raised concerns sofar. When the end product is made you are safe.
Good luck and please let us know when you take your first drag!
At less that 2 cents per coil and wick replacement it is really an easy and affordable solution.... IMHO.
PS. Why don't you use syringe needles instead? It works perfectly for me. Very high grade stainless steel.
Cheers!
I have used lead free solder on my design and really REALLY struggled to get the solder to tin to stainless steel. Thanks to Dan, I now know to use a hydrochloric acid containing flux when working on stainless. It is however pretty hard to get hold off in a standard DIY shop.... well, at least in South Africa it is - hence my workaround with the copper wire windings.
I think your idea is sound. I am also working on an "all stainless steel" concept at present. If you have a precision lathe, the centre post wont be a problem. If you don't, you will have to make use of some sort off glue / epoxy / solder.
The lead free solder is quite safe - just the resin fumes that has raised concerns sofar. When the end product is made you are safe.
Good luck and please let us know when you take your first drag!
At less that 2 cents per coil and wick replacement it is really an easy and affordable solution.... IMHO.
PS. Why don't you use syringe needles instead? It works perfectly for me. Very high grade stainless steel.
Cheers!
I got the original idea from Madvapes Homemade 510 connector; then went and found a piece of plumber's gasket in my garage - the kind where you can cut out your own gaskets something like 4x6" and maybe 1/8" thick; it was orange red in color....
I used a hole punch (the kind you use for paper) and popped out a bunch of dots (They fit perfectly in a 510 connector)....
Eventually I figured you had to drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in the middle so they wouldn't rip, then put one on top of a 510 battery connector and two in the bottom (for stability), and pushed a finishing nail through them for the electrical connection - POOF! a perfectly functioning battery connector!
Again - it's just an insulator for the positive connection - it might work for you, might not!
I used a hole punch (the kind you use for paper) and popped out a bunch of dots (They fit perfectly in a 510 connector)....
Eventually I figured you had to drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in the middle so they wouldn't rip, then put one on top of a 510 battery connector and two in the bottom (for stability), and pushed a finishing nail through them for the electrical connection - POOF! a perfectly functioning battery connector!
Again - it's just an insulator for the positive connection - it might work for you, might not!
Persis,
I like the thought behind your design because I can see that what you're going for is safety. I mean, it would be silly to design an ecig with safety problems considering that most of us switched from analogs to ecigs for our HEALTH. That being said, I gotta say that I agree with the comments I've seen - I don't like the teflon tape. For one thing the safety of teflon is questionable. For all we know, copper might be safer than teflon. We do run our water through copper pipes after all. But I do like the idea of an all SS design. Maybe you could thread an SS tube to the center post of the connector instead of using teflon tape? It won't be easy because SS isn't easy to work with, but a threaded design would eliminate any other materials. I don't know how you can thread the other tube though. Maybe someone else has an idea. At any rate I do think the lead free solder is pretty safe. Also, if you can fashion a plastic (or other inert material) insert to surround the copper tubes and serve as a liquid tank, then the copper wouldn't be much of a factor. The biggest challenge in my opinion is SIZE. Everything you try will be too freakin big to fit in the available space. You have to keep making things smaller and smaller until you go blind. I wish you luck with your design. Keep us posted on progress please.
I like the thought behind your design because I can see that what you're going for is safety. I mean, it would be silly to design an ecig with safety problems considering that most of us switched from analogs to ecigs for our HEALTH. That being said, I gotta say that I agree with the comments I've seen - I don't like the teflon tape. For one thing the safety of teflon is questionable. For all we know, copper might be safer than teflon. We do run our water through copper pipes after all. But I do like the idea of an all SS design. Maybe you could thread an SS tube to the center post of the connector instead of using teflon tape? It won't be easy because SS isn't easy to work with, but a threaded design would eliminate any other materials. I don't know how you can thread the other tube though. Maybe someone else has an idea. At any rate I do think the lead free solder is pretty safe. Also, if you can fashion a plastic (or other inert material) insert to surround the copper tubes and serve as a liquid tank, then the copper wouldn't be much of a factor. The biggest challenge in my opinion is SIZE. Everything you try will be too freakin big to fit in the available space. You have to keep making things smaller and smaller until you go blind. I wish you luck with your design. Keep us posted on progress please.
OK, as most of you know if you've read this monster of a thread, I've been working on a top-fed version of l3oertjie's design - actually a couple top-fed designs. The one problem I've had, no matter what I do is that my attys are lasting only about 2-4 days before they peter out. That's not a huge problem since it's easy to change the coil/wick with this design, but still it seems like I should at least be able to get a couple weeks from an atty. The wick is crucial here and I started to wonder if maybe my silica is the problem. On a whim I went to the local dollar store and bought a 99-cent unscented candle. I ripped the wick out of the candle and scraped off the wax. Then I cut a length of the candle wick and used it instead of silica. I'm here to tell you that the vapor production from this design is DOUBLE what I was getting from silica. Seriously. I'm on day 2 with this thing and it hasn't weakened at all. I think I might be on to something, but only time will tell...
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