Atomizer / Cartomizer for life....

[lexi60]

I've been following this thread and thanks every one.
using 22ga needles and 26ga enamle leads hooked to coil.
The 26ga enamle wire slides right in the needle with good resistance.
my question is, what is the awful taste im getting?
I washed the silica, washed the carto. juice it up, poision like flavor and smell. its not buring the wick.
Am I missing something? maybe something the coil wire is coated in?

 

[Persis]

I got the original idea from Madvapes Homemade 510 connector; then went and found a piece of plumber's gasket in my garage - the kind where you can cut out your own gaskets something like 4x6" and maybe 1/8" thick; it was orange red in color....

I used a hole punch (the kind you use for paper) and popped out a bunch of dots (They fit perfectly in a 510 connector)....
Eventually I figured you had to drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in the middle so they wouldn't rip, then put one on top of a 510 battery connector and two in the bottom (for stability), and pushed a finishing nail through them for the electrical connection - POOF! a perfectly functioning battery connector!

Again - it's just an insulator for the positive connection - it might work for you, might not!

Bubo, thanks..... brillant idea, I will keep in mind, but for now, I could to use the original gasket, details in nexts posts.

 

[l3oertjie]

I've been following this thread and thanks every one.
using 22ga needles and 26ga enamle leads hooked to coil.
The 26ga enamle wire slides right in the needle with good resistance.
my question is, what is the awful taste im getting?
I washed the silica, washed the carto. juice it up, poision like flavor and smell. its not buring the wick.
Am I missing something? maybe something the coil wire is coated in?

Lexi, can you post a few pictures of the opened Atty please? This doesn't sound good. How did you seal everything - epoxy? Let's have a look.

 

[Persis]

I think your idea is sound. I am also working on an "all stainless steel" concept at present. If you have a precision lathe, the centre post wont be a problem. If you don't, you will have to make use of some sort off glue / epoxy / solder.

I will must to use something of that, but not to hold the central post, but to seal the de conector's inside

The lead free solder is quite safe - just the resin fumes that has raised concerns sofar. When the end product is made you are safe.

Excelent, because i have to make one solder in the conector, and it is that solder what I want to seal completely.

Good luck and please let us know when you take your first drag!
Yes, of course, but will take some time...

PS. Why don't you use syringe needles instead? It works perfectly for me. Very high grade stainless steel.
Yes, now, I am using syringe needles.

Next post.... the advances

thanks guys, you are amazing people...

Gabriel

 

[Persis]

Well, there have been some changes to the original design of my first drawing.

Central post: It is 3.5mm OD, and fits perfectly and very very firmly in the fitting's gasket.

Aty model: I can't use a 510 aty because I need more space. Then, I will use an ego cartomizer fitting, and a SS tube that fits in the diameter of that fitting. (at this moment I am testing with a aluminum tube, but i will buy a SS one)

Finally, the SS wires dont work , because I could not find the SOFT 0.5mm SS wire, I have middle soft, and is not enough to make a firmly attach. Then.... I have conected one needle to the central post with .. I dont know how you call that ( http://www.dmat.com.ar/imagenes/precintos.jpg ). And that clamps, works to attach both parts, and also, to isolate the central post to the another needle. As well, you can see a small piece of SS wire inside the union, that makes a more solid pressure) The needle and the post are really firmly attached. And I trimmed the square head of the plastic piece to rounded it to make easy to fit into the tube.

Negative Needle: I have to solder it to the fitting, because with this kind of fitting, don't have space to make another conexion. I will solder it with lead free solder, but next, I want to seal all the interior of the fitting, but with what ???? epoxi ???.... or.... what do you think about "plastic gun injector" Again, I dont know how you call that, but I wish that you understand what I mean.

Ok guys, thats all for now....

Thanks again...
Gabriel

 

[lexi60]

I dont seal anything. No epoxy. I use a atty connector, and its bushing. (Silver)Solder needle to outer and inner post.
Solder 2- 1/4" leads to coil ends, Slip them into needles.
Kind of a mix between your and Ky's design.
I will try and post pics later today. its a very simple set up.

 

[KYFlyer67]

I've been following this thread and thanks every one.
using 22ga needles and 26ga enamle leads hooked to coil.
The 26ga enamle wire slides right in the needle with good resistance.
my question is, what is the awful taste im getting?
I washed the silica, washed the carto. juice it up, poision like flavor and smell. its not buring the wick.
Am I missing something? maybe something the coil wire is coated in?

I don't understand why you're using enamel lead wires with this design. Do I understand correctly that you soldered enamel-coated lead wires to the nichrome coil and pushed the lead wires into the hypo needles? You'd be better off in my opinion to connect the nichrome wire directly into the hypo needles - that way there's nothing to solder when you change the coil. The awful taste you're getting could be melting enamel - another reason do ditch the lead wires. The taste could also be coming from the silica wick if it isn't rinsed well enough. In my experience rinsing with hot water alone isn't enough. I use isopropyl alcohol, then rinse with water. If you accidentally ordered fiberglass rope instead of silica, like I did, you'll get an awful taste. Also, if you're wick is drying out (there are a number of reasons this can happen), you'll get a burning taste. I recently ditched the use of silia wicks in favor of plain ole candle wicks, and it's working better. Hope this helps - good luck.

 

[lexi60]

Kyflyer- I'm using enamle wire cause i bought 22ga blunt needles and cant find a needle or pin small enough to fit in the 22ga syringe needle, It just so happens that i had enamel wire that fit in.
I burnt the enamel off the wire and cleaned it (Though maybe not enough).
It is silica rope. it wont burn with a lighter. I bought #3 & #4 from mcmaster. I cleaned it like you told me a few days back(though again maybe not good enough)

Candle wicks? they are not burning? Does it wick fast? You just scrape the wax off? it isnt absorbed into the wick?
What gauge needles are you/should I be using?

 

[KYFlyer67]

Kyflyer- I'm using enamle wire cause i bought 22ga blunt needles and cant find a needle or pin small enough to fit in the 22ga syringe needle, It just so happens that i had enamel wire that fit in.
I burnt the enamel off the wire and cleaned it (Though maybe not enough).
It is silica rope. it wont burn with a lighter. I bought #3 & #4 from mcmaster. I cleaned it like you told me a few days back(though again maybe not good enough)

Candle wicks? they are not burning? Does it wick fast? You just scrape the wax off? it isnt absorbed into the wick?
What gauge needles are you/should I be using?

OK, I get it now - you're using the enamel wire to pin the nichrome coil into the hypo needles, right? That shouldn't be a problem as long as you got all the enamel off. I was using #4 silica rope from mcmaster, so that shouldn't be your problem either.

I decided to try candle wicks on a whim. I figured they would burn up, but they don't. As long as they don't dry out they're fine. Yes I would say the wax is absorbed into the wick, but it's plain unscented wax and it doesn't create any taste. I think it's safe but I can't guarantee that. Since I know the candle wicks are working I'll probably odor wicks instead of taking them out of candles, that way there will be no wax.

Just about any time I've had a burning taste from my attys it's been because the wick was getting too dry which makes the coil get too hot. You might try dripping several drops of e-liquid directly into your atty and see if the bad taste goes away. If it does, then your wick is drying out.

 

[Persis]

Persis,

I like the thought behind your design because I can see that what you're going for is safety. I mean, it would be silly to design an ecig with safety problems considering that most of us switched from analogs to ecigs for our HEALTH. That being said, I gotta say that I agree with the comments I've seen - I don't like the teflon tape. For one thing the safety of teflon is questionable. For all we know, copper might be safer than teflon. We do run our water through copper pipes after all. But I do like the idea of an all SS design. Maybe you could thread an SS tube to the center post of the connector instead of using teflon tape? It won't be easy because SS isn't easy to work with, but a threaded design would eliminate any other materials. I don't know how you can thread the other tube though. Maybe someone else has an idea. At any rate I do think the lead free solder is pretty safe. Also, if you can fashion a plastic (or other inert material) insert to surround the copper tubes and serve as a liquid tank, then the copper wouldn't be much of a factor. The biggest challenge in my opinion is SIZE. Everything you try will be too freakin big to fit in the available space. You have to keep making things smaller and smaller until you go blind. I wish you luck with your design. Keep us posted on progress please.

I agree with you about teflon tape.... and all of your comments are right, All. That is why I did what I did. But now I need to seal, isolate, the fitting solder from the main body. And I am not sure with what yet, to maintain the maximun health safety posible.

 

[KYFlyer67]

I agree with you about teflon tape.... and all of your comments are right, All. That is why I did what I did. But now I need to seal, isolate, the fitting solder from the main body. And I am not sure with what yet, to maintain the maximun health safety posible.

The only things I can think of are silicone and epoxy. Both are probably safe. The key word here is "probably".

 

[WillyB]

- Wick Use in the U.S.
Approximately 80 percent of the wicks manufactured in the United States are made of all-cotton or cotton-paper combinations. The remainder are primarily metal- and paper-cored wicks.

Candle wicks are normally made out of braided cotton, and may contain a stiff core. This core was traditionally made of lead, however lead wick cores have been banned in the U.S. for several years by the Consumer Product Safety Commission, due to concerns about lead poisoning. Zinc is often used as a safer replacement for lead in this application

To get started making a basic braided wick, take 3 strips of heavy cotton string or cotton yarn

 

[Bubo]

maybe my silica is the problem....[/QUOTE]

Oh no you don't.. Don't be bad mouthing the silica... I have enough to make about 4 million attys....

 

[Persis]

The only things I can think of are silicone and epoxy. Both are probably safe. The key word here is "probably".

I will try with the hot melt glue gun.

Would be ok the standard transparent sticks ???

And, would the silicon glue remains stable being in contact with the liquid ??? Because the liquid has alcohol...

 

[WillyB]

I will try with the hot melt glue gun.

Would be ok the standard transparent sticks ???

And, would the silicon glue remains stable being in contact with the liquid ??? Because the liquid has alcohol...

Hot melt, epoxy, silicone (Type 1, the kind that smells while curing) all will lose their bond from contact with e-liquid.

Maybe this silicone will fare better.

Permatex High Temp RTV Silicone - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore

 

[Nobodyatall]

Interesting you guys should be discussing cotton as a wicking material. Cotton twine is available @ Chinamart in the hardware section. And I have been using it for several weeks now. Seems to work fine on my atty.... but I'm not using 36ga NiCr. It would be interesting to learn if it will work for you guys.

Go for it!

Oh... be prepared for slight harshness until the cotton swells fully. Just seems to be the nature of the beast.

 

[l3oertjie]

Persis, before doing that, try loosening the wick a bit. If the coil is too tight around the wick it doesn't absorb the liquid sufficiently. Just a thougt.

 

[roadrash]

OK, as most of you know if you've read this monster of a thread, I've been working on a top-fed version of l3oertjie's design - actually a couple top-fed designs. The one problem I've had, no matter what I do is that my attys are lasting only about 2-4 days before they peter out. That's not a huge problem since it's easy to change the coil/wick with this design, but still it seems like I should at least be able to get a couple weeks from an atty. The wick is crucial here and I started to wonder if maybe my silica is the problem. On a whim I went to the local dollar store and bought a 99-cent unscented candle. I ripped the wick out of the candle and scraped off the wax. Then I cut a length of the candle wick and used it instead of silica. I'm here to tell you that the vapor production from this design is DOUBLE what I was getting from silica. Seriously. I'm on day 2 with this thing and it hasn't weakened at all. I think I might be on to something, but only time will tell...

Time yet?

 

[l3oertjie]

Dang, just got an introduction to VG instead of PG on my atty..... PLUMES OF VAPOUR!!!! I like the taste too....

Persis, where are those Pics? I'm sure we can help you to get rid of that taste ans smell.... it sounds toxic to me.

 

[Persis]

l3oertjie, Im not the guy of the taste problem (is lexi60)...

Im the guy of the 100% SS prototipe....